How to pick a CAMSHAFT for EFI - Page 6 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #101 of 115 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 02:09 AM
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OK where the FAWK is Fireguy50, aka: Ryan McCormick, is he still MIA or does anyone know what happened to him and his business, RJMinjectiontech appears to be for sale......

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post #102 of 115 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 11:15 AM
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For the maf guys, if the truck is converted to maf what is the cam limitations before it needs to be tuned, if any? Im on the fence of maf swap or carb swap since I want something a little more aggressive then the 3 or 4 cam options always floating around on here.

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post #103 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-05-2016, 10:07 PM
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Would replacing the timing change be a good time to swap in a new cam?

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post #104 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-05-2016, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CDA 455 View Post
Would replacing the timing change be a good time to swap in a new cam?
You'd have to pull the valve covers, injectors, and intake to remove the pushrods and lifters. If you don't mind tearing down the motor to get that far, it would be a good time. If you're, just, trying to get at what's easily accessible from the timing cover, then no.
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post #105 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-14-2016, 09:42 PM
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Hey guys, Ive been collecting parts to build a replacement engine for my truck. New Block had flat tappet lifters but has the threaded holes for the Spider/linkbar setup. Current engine has almost 200,000 and leaks oil and coolant so id like to have a engine that will last me another 200,000. I was going to just build it to Factory specs (except for a .030 overbore) but some friends convinced me I should try for some improvement while Im at it. So after some consideration and a lot of reading Ive decided to switch to GT 40 heads and a roller cam. Fairly mild. I want to put the 96-01 explorer cam to match the heads, (since i keep hearing how its a shame how the 302 only got those amazing improvements so late in the game) but I cannot find a new explorer cam for sale on the internet, so i entered the specs indicated on the first page of this thread into summit's site and got this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...view/year/1995 now it SAYS its OEM replacement, and the specs are ALMOST the same, but What I want to know is will it be compatible? The picture looks like a 4 cyl cam. Should the 0.001 intake duration difference and the 0.002 exhaust duration tell me to avoid it? most importantly, should the lobe separation difference of 1 degree cause performance losses? This doesnt sound like a problem to me but i only have a basic understanding of how cam performance is calculated. I guess what im asking is for someone to tell me if this product is a good choice.
Thanks in advance,
Mitch

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It exhibits a want to be driven like a hay wagon... with constant correction and high attention to direction it sure does ride nice.
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post #106 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 03:30 AM
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Firing is different from HO to standard speed density, MAF can be altered easily with a Moest's tuner then the sky is the limit. The SN95 PCM can be had for cheap and can be altered extensively. Cam wise with a tuner a carbureted cam is no issue at all making your selection much broader.
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post #107 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 09:09 AM
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Take a look at the trick flow stage 1. They work nice on the 5.0
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post #108 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 07:45 PM
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Okay, I know there's a different firing order on HO cams, and that's not a problem for me. I have a 95 5.0 so its already MAF. Like I said I'm trying to stay mild, I am not going to race the thing and I don't care if it doesn't sound like a top fuel dragster, To my understanding, The explorers already run on the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order.
I checked out the Trick Flow Stage 1 and that's way too lopey for me. I need to daily drive this thing. I guess my question is Whats the difference between This cam shown at the beginning of this thread:

96-01 Explorer 5.0L HO roller
Ford Part numbers: F4TE-6250-BA
* Advertised Duration: 256 / 266
* Duration at .050 in.: 186 / 197
* Gross valve lift: 0.422 / 0.448
* Lobe separation: 116°

And this one
Sealed Power CS-1533
*Duration at .050 in.: 186 / 197
*Gross valve lift: 0.421 / 0.446
*Lobe separation: 115°

What will these seemingly tiny differences do?
Are these pretty much the same cam?
Thanks in advance,
Mitch

1995 EB 4" lift 302, magnaflow, headers, dana 44 SAS
It exhibits a want to be driven like a hay wagon... with constant correction and high attention to direction it sure does ride nice.
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post #109 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-15-2016, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartin762 View Post
Okay, I know there's a different firing order on HO cams, and that's not a problem for me. I have a 95 5.0 so its already MAF. Like I said I'm trying to stay mild, I am not going to race the thing and I don't care if it doesn't sound like a top fuel dragster, To my understanding, The explorers already run on the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 firing order.
I checked out the Trick Flow Stage 1 and that's way too lopey for me. I need to daily drive this thing. I guess my question is Whats the difference between This cam shown at the beginning of this thread:

96-01 Explorer 5.0L HO roller
Ford Part numbers: F4TE-6250-BA
* Advertised Duration: 256 / 266
* Duration at .050 in.: 186 / 197
* Gross valve lift: 0.422 / 0.448
* Lobe separation: 116°

And this one
Sealed Power CS-1533
*Duration at .050 in.: 186 / 197
*Gross valve lift: 0.421 / 0.446
*Lobe separation: 115°

What will these seemingly tiny differences do?
Are these pretty much the same cam?
Thanks in advance,
Mitch
Honestly, the differences are of no consequence at the level of performance you're building to. Tiny variances in mass-produced cams (the Explorer cam, for example) can yield variances greater than what you see between those numbers. This may not, even, be a consideration for you because you are building a new motor, but, roller cams produce very little wear on cam lobes because of their design and the fact the cams are turned from steel and not cast iron. Also, the Explorer GT40P heads have, notoriously, weak valve springs, which lessen cam wear even further. You could go to a junk yard and pull a, used, Explorer cam and lifters. Then just have your machinist inspect and polish the cam while he's doing your other work.

I, actually, did this, myself, because I was pulling some GT40P (Explorer) heads to trade for a set of GT40 (Cobra/Lightning) heads. I decided to pull the stick and lifters to, just, find out how much wear they had seen. I'd been curious about EXPO cams for a while; specifically, because of how little wear they are, theoretically, subjected to. Cost me an extra $30 at the JY checkout for the cam and lifters. Not bad, if everything turned out to be useable. The odometer on the wrecked EXPO I was pulling from read 140k miles.

Upon inspection, mic'ing, truing, etc. my machinist told me the cam had near-zero wear and was more than good-to-go. We were both, actually, kinda surprised. He polished the lifter and bearing lobes for me and I stuffed it into my fresh-on-the-stand 5.0 HO motor.

Just my $0.02,
Eric
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post #110 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 10:27 PM
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Thank you, Eric, that was EXACTLY what I needed to know. I know of an explorer at my local U-pull it which would be a prime candidate. I was not aware that the only explorer heads were the P models. This means i will need to get new headers, which is unfortunate because I bought brand new Shorties for when I was going to stick with the E7's. I saw a set of GT40 heads on Craigslist a while ago for cheap, but someone snatched them up and now the only ones are $300-$350. what do you suggest? sell the headers and get the JY heads or keep the new headers and pay the extra for the GT40s on CL? I hear performance wise the P's are only minutely better.
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post #111 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartin762 View Post
Thank you, Eric, that was EXACTLY what I needed to know. I know of an explorer at my local U-pull it which would be a prime candidate. I was not aware that the only explorer heads were the P models. This means i will need to get new headers, which is unfortunate because I bought brand new Shorties for when I was going to stick with the E7's. I saw a set of GT40 heads on Craigslist a while ago for cheap, but someone snatched them up and now the only ones are $300-$350. what do you suggest? sell the headers and get the JY heads or keep the new headers and pay the extra for the GT40s on CL? I hear performance wise the P's are only minutely better.
You're welcome, sir. I apologize, in advance, for the long-winded response to follow...

Well, the very early 5.0 Explorers ('96-early '97) are said to have had the remainder of the GT40 heads, that were left over in Ford's inventory, used on them. I, personally, have never found one of these in the JY's that I frequent. All I've ever seen on the Explorers are the P heads. Many people do say this is true, though.

The GT40P heads are, slightly, better performance-wise. They are, pretty much, the epitome of, production vehicle, cast iron cylinder head design for the pushrod 5.0. However, between the two, at the performance level you're building to, you might see a ~5-8 hp difference. Maybe. When you start using a higher-lift cam, more duration, with less LSA (i.e.- .500+ lift/110* LSA) is when you are utilizing more of the head's flow potential. This is when the differences become more apparent.

Personally, I chose the GT40 (Cobra/Lightning) heads because I need to keep my emissions stuff. Also, I'm using shorty headers off a first-gen Lightning. Direct bolt-on, factory part, inexpensive, and designed to work in our F-series chassis. Picked them up off a Lightning forum for ~$100.

My opinion: JY GT40P's and new headers ~$300 (plus any machine work/rebuilding on the heads), minus the price offset from selling your current headers. CL GT40's ~$300 (plus machining), minus the offset of negotiating the price down (maybe).

It looks like it would wash-out, about, the same either way +/- $50. Therefore, the decision should be based on peripheral factors: Do you need your emissions equipment? How well will the P headers work in your engine bay? Are you going to want well-flowing heads to "grow into", performance-wise, at a later time?

Finally, IMHO, I don't like the idea of, possible, "hiccups" with parts that are not designed to work well in the, over-all, vehicle application for my DD. I don't like saying, "Well... I had to tweak that to make it work." or "Yeah... that doesn't fit quite right, so, it makes things hard to access and work on." When you pop my hood, everything looks and functions like it belongs there. I'm a big fan of, brutal, simplicity and ease-of-maintenance on my DD's. I can play Hot Rod builder with my street car.

Just my $0.02,
Eric
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post #112 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-20-2016, 07:55 PM
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Alright. sounds like I will probably go with the GT40s. I too, need to keep my emissions stuff for at least 3 more years. And I absolutely agree with your "no hiccups" theory, i think that's very wise considering this is my daily driver. Im also intent on keeping the truck intake, part of the reason I am doing the head swap is because I heard when it comes to the truck 5.0, the airflow bottleneck is the heads, not the intake. I saw a pair of heads w/cobra roller rockers and head bolts (I already have head studs) For $350. I also have other connections that could possibly net me a pair of explorer heads for less, but thats iffy.
Anyhow, Thanks for the input. Its been monumentally helpful. Ill start with the cam and lifters and stuff for now, (got to build a short block first, after all) but at least now i have a clear plan for what i want to do.
Thanks again,
Mitch
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1995 EB 4" lift 302, magnaflow, headers, dana 44 SAS
It exhibits a want to be driven like a hay wagon... with constant correction and high attention to direction it sure does ride nice.
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post #113 of 115 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mmartin762 View Post
Alright. sounds like I will probably go with the GT40s. I too, need to keep my emissions stuff for at least 3 more years. And I absolutely agree with your "no hiccups" theory, i think that's very wise considering this is my daily driver. Im also intent on keeping the truck intake, part of the reason I am doing the head swap is because I heard when it comes to the truck 5.0, the airflow bottleneck is the heads, not the intake. I saw a pair of heads w/cobra roller rockers and head bolts (I already have head studs) For $350. I also have other connections that could possibly net me a pair of explorer heads for less, but thats iffy.
Anyhow, Thanks for the input. Its been monumentally helpful. Ill start with the cam and lifters and stuff for now, (got to build a short block first, after all) but at least now i have a clear plan for what i want to do.
Thanks again,
Mitch
Sure thing, Mitch.

A couple, final, pieces of advice:

1.) 5.0L truck intake flows more than the 5.0L HO Mustang intake. Actual flow bench numbers (don't remember where I got them) I have written down in my notes from years ago:

5.0L HO Mustang intake: 150-160 CFM
5.0L truck intake: 186 CFM, or, 180-190 CFM
Cobra/GT40 (Explorer) 5.0L HO intake: 200-210 CFM

2.) The Cobra/Lightning GT40 heads have the thermactor ports plugged with screw caps on the back side. The main trunk-line and exhaust port feeds are all there; you just need to unscrew/remove the threaded plugs. Sometimes the plugs are seized and need some elbow grease, but, they will come out. A 50/50 mix of acetone and trans fluid works, ridiculously, well as a penetrating oil.

Have fun with the build!

Eric
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post #114 of 115 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 08:26 PM
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[QUOTE=Fireguy50;89527]
For a good fuel injection truck cam:
intake duration @ 0.50" should be kept at or under 210
Gross valve lift should be kept under 0.500
Lobe seperation should be at or above 114°

Good 5.0L/5.8L (302/351) EFI hydraulic flat tappet cams:

Comp Cam 35-255-5
* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 214
* Gross valve lift: 0.478 / 0.485
* Lobe separation: 114°


Edelbrock 3782
* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 216
* Gross valve lift: 0.469 / 0.484
* Lobe separation: 116°


Crane Cams 444232
* Duration at .050 in.: 206 / 214
* Gross valve lift: 0.448 / 0.464
* Lobe separation: 114°



Why is it when I look these up they are all for 5.0, not 5.8? Anybody? I need a good cam for speed density motor, mild.


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post #115 of 115 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 10:33 PM
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Has anybody here done a 4 degree cam advance with the stock explorer cam? I want to go for maximum torque low down on the rpm range. I have a double roller timing set that has the option for this, so i want to know how it worked.
Thanks,
Mitch

1995 EB 4" lift 302, magnaflow, headers, dana 44 SAS
It exhibits a want to be driven like a hay wagon... with constant correction and high attention to direction it sure does ride nice.
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