Re: How to pick a CAMSHAFT

Good 302 cam:
Comp Cams 31-255-5
* Duration at .050 in.: 206 / 212
* Gross valve lift: 0.462 / 0.474
* Lobe separation: 114

That's the cam I put in. I like it, it works well with my GT-40 heads and I still have a good idle. I recommend it!:thumbup

MM

 

what would you recomend as a versitile cam that would add HP to an engine with few mods such as just dual exaust and K&N intake?

 

Picking a cam should be bases on all the vechicle specs and the driveing disires of the owner. Most inportant factors when pickin a cam are compression ratio, gear ratio, weight, stall speed, head flow, and what you want to do with it.


Best thing for a novice to do is call up a cam company and get a recomendation.

 

Best thing for a novice to do is call up a cam company and get a recomendation.

Yup, that's kinda what I did, I got a lift recommendation from a buddy helping me with the engine swap and had heard the same thing about the lobe seperation fireguy already hit on. Called Summit, and they found a good one for me. But I would recommend calling the cam place directly, they know more about their products them summit would.

MM

 

Picking a cam should be bases on all the vechicle specs and the driveing disires of the owner. Most inportant factors when pickin a cam are compression ratio, gear ratio, weight, stall speed, head flow, and what you want to do with it.

That is so wrong! You can "desire" to go as fast as you want. But if you have the stock truck computer you are limited as to what you can do. The cams I listed above are about all you have to choose from. If you have a carb, or feel like spending $750-$3000 on programmable EFI you can pick out what ever cam you want.
Ryan

 

That is so wrong! You can "desire" to go as fast as you want. But if you have the stock truck computer you are limited as to what you can do. The cams I listed above are about all you have to choose from. If you have a carb, or feel like spending $750-$3000 on programmable EFI you can pick out what ever cam you want.
Ryan

Picking a cam with dur below 210 and ls above 114 will not get you the best performing cam for your buck. You might as well said pick up a cam catalog and pick a cam thats for a stock/mildly modified efi motor. I just pointed out that you need to consider many things when picking a cam. And unless you have years of experiance you should call up and let an "expert" help you in the right direction. Desire = how much time, effort, and money, you want to sink into it.

You go up to a guy running a professional mud drag truck and tell him he has to run a cam with 210@050 and 114lsa your gonna get laughed at.

 

Re: How to pick a CAMSHAFT

The very first line I typed was:

For a good fuel injection truck cam:

I never said anything about mud drags. Anyone running fuel injection on a mud drag vehicle is too stupid to worry about picking the correct cam.

If anyone buys a higher performance cam than the above limits for a stock truck computer, they will ruin the dependability of the truck. Fuel ratios will be way off, and idle will be so bad the owner will sell the truck.

 

Re: How to pick a CAMSHAFT

The very first line I typed was:


I never said anything about mud drags. Anyone running fuel injection on a mud drag vehicle is too stupid to worry about picking the correct cam.

If anyone buys a higher performance cam than the above limits for a stock truck computer, they will ruin the dependability of the truck. Fuel ratios will be way off, and idle will be so bad the owner will sell the truck.

Agree with you ? percent I have seen this before and it was a badass truck and it would have been a monster with a 4 barrel Holley but it was the stock CPU and idled like it had the wires crossed and was rich as hell wish I could have bought it but didn't ever see it again.

 

• Duration____________Lift_______________Lobe
• Intake-Exhaust------Intake-Exhaust-------Seperation
• 204*214*____.448"__.472"______112*

I have this cam in the 302 in my bronco II. I am planning on pulling that engine out and putting it in the bronco, with all the EFI stuff from the big bronco.
This cam won't work with the speed density will it, cause of the lobe separation?

 

nope, you can try it, but...
you'll swap that cam out
AND I'll say "I told ya so"

 

what about a good ca emsission cam?

 

what about a good ca emsission cam?

Not a good idea. I'd stick to simple improving flow if you live in CA. My reasoning is that any cam that would pass CA inspection and keep the computer happy wouldn't be much of an improvment over stock. make sence?

You forgot to mention Crower cam's

I didn't know they made any cam's to keep Speed Desnity EFI happy. You got any links, info, ect?

 

Comps Speed Density Camshaft
Same part number as Ryan mentions. I was told it was a cam that would work well with speed density. I'm running it currently.

Lobe center 114, duration 250int. 260exh. .462int. & .474exh.


Part # 31-255-5
Grind # FS XE250H-14

 

Not a good idea. I'd stick to simple improving flow if you live in CA. My reasoning is that any cam that would pass CA inspection and keep the computer happy wouldn't be much of an improvment over stock. make sence?

Are you saying that putting in a mild cam for a 302 WILL give you problems with CA smog testing?

I am no expert on this but why would it have problems with emissions? Would you mind explaining a bit... The cam won't/can't run the truck richer on a stock EFI right? The computer controls the mixture and stock factory settings prevent that. Before I say anymore and confuse myself I'll let you set me straight.

 

A mild cam wouldn't necisarily make you fail an emmsions test. But why put in a mild cam without intake and exhaust mods would yeild much of an improment.

I did saying not to......
I'm saying the work and money involved in a mild cam wouldn't give much of a gain.

 

A mild cam wouldn't necisarily make you fail an emmsions test. But why put in a mild cam without intake and exhaust mods would yeild much of an improment.

I did saying not to......
I'm saying the work and money involved in a mild cam wouldn't give much of a gain.

Would then the whole package (cam, intake, exhaust) make you fail CA emission testing? Are you able to make both intake and exhaust mods and still pass smog from an emissions standpoint??

And then as far as a viz inspection I think I could get away with headers and they probably wouldn't notice anything else.... Or would they.... Maybe I don't have a proper visual on what these mods would look like under the hood.... But say nothing on the outside is changed; All I ever remember "them" looking for is pipes, O2 sensor cat, muffler etc.... And there's no reason you can't put all that on and maintain performance and flow right???

And to finish the questions.... It seem like doing one mod is a slippery slope. Can't do cam with out intake, can't do intake without exhaust etc.... so is it better to do all or nothing? Or can there be a middle ground where one can build a good-solid- long running motor making the improvements Ford couldn't back when my truck was originally put together.....

 

Would then the whole package (cam, intake, exhaust) make you fail CA emission testing? Are you able to make both intake and exhaust mods and still pass smog from an emissions standpoint??

And then as far as a viz inspection I think I could get away with headers and they probably wouldn't notice anything else.... Or would they.... Maybe I don't have a proper visual on what these mods would look like under the hood.... But say nothing on the outside is changed; All I ever remember "them" looking for is pipes, O2 sensor cat, muffler etc.... And there's no reason you can't put all that on and maintain performance and flow right???

And to finish the questions.... It seem like doing one mod is a slippery slope. Can't do cam with out intake, can't do intake without exhaust etc.... so is it better to do all or nothing? Or can there be a middle ground where one can build a good-solid- long running motor making the improvements Ford couldn't back when my truck was originally put together.....

 

You can buy headers, cam and intake all with CA smog legal papers.
And in my book: intake / cam / exhaust is all a starting point. I don't consider sliding down the slope untill you change heads / displacment / compresion - ect.

Camshaft is never a starting point. The stock cam can outperform the intake and exhaust, and possible the heads. you have to look at the total package and replace the week points. Cam is far down the line in weak points

 

I thought about doing a cam swap in my 94 302. My books say it has a .380"/.396" lift. But I think it has a factory roller cam. Would it be a good idea to swap in a cam with higher lift that has flat tappets? Or does someone make a speed density friendly roller cam for it?

 

you have a 94 5.0L with a roller cam?
Are you sure you don't have Mass Air?

 

you have a 94 5.0L with a roller cam?
Are you sure you don't have Mass Air?

Well I'm pretty sure its speed density. There is no air meter between the filter and the throtle body. I ain't 100 % sure about the roller cam though. Thats just what I have heard from everyone.

 

ryan, would this be a good cam 35-308-8 my 5.8 is the f4te block so if the current stock cam is roller would this be good one to use? the ls is 114 and the intake is 210 exhaust 215. there are some other roller cams with 114 ls but they all say blower cam and probably would require a lot more done to a 5.8 to make it worth anything or they are a hi rpm cam

 

I've heard of people using the 35-308-8
it should be ok

 

Gonna throw in a bit of a curve here for the engine I'm currently building for my 96.

• .030 over 351 flat tappet block
• roush 200 heads(2.02Intake, 1.6 exhaust) 63cc chamber
• 1.6 RR
• speed pro forged pistons @ 9.06 compression @63cc
• Trick flow351W street or GT-40 lightning intake(If I can get ahold of one)
• 75mm TB
• Bassani headers and cat pipe

Truck has factory mass air, E4OD, and 33's with 4.56 gears. Will most likely be recieving a dyno tune after the break in.

• Camshaft I'm contemplating is one of the Lunati Voodoo cams:61001LK
• Advertised duration, in/ex: 256/262
• Duration @.050: 213/219
• Gross Valve Lift IN/EX: .483"/.499"
• Lobe seperation, intake centerline: 112/108

The truck is 99% street driven, and occasionally tows, but is mostly for just having fun. Its a bit bigger than most are running, but wanted to see what others thought.

 

That Lunati cam is a standard Hydraulic flat tappet
If your 96 truck has the F4TE roller block, do the upgrade.

 

I agree, run the roller cam especially if ya have the F4TE block. Completely worth the benefits that come along with roller profiles.

Power to be gained even just from the lack of friction, as well as slightly lower oil temps.

More lift for a given duration usually equates to more power (depends on head flow numbers etc, really).

Take a look at my sig, I have incredible torque for only a 357" engine. I have what is referred to in more drag racing oriented circles as the small cam big head combo going. Tiny duration specs to have the throttle response and torque at low rpms then lift for increased flow and velocity, and heads that flow like a mo fo for some continued power up in the rpm.

 

That Lunati cam is a standard Hydraulic flat tappet
If your 96 truck has the F4TF roller block, do the upgrade.

The block I am building the new motor in is a '74 flat tappet.
It depends on if I can swing getting the retrofit roller lifters(crane-400ish dollars), I don't want to run a reduced base circle cam, so that limits me to the expensive lifters.

If I do get the retrofit, I'll then get a roller cam that is comparable in specs though