Sway Bar Removal - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2007, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Sway Bar Removal

Ok I know its not a install, but this is something alot of people wonder about the ups and downs. This is my first write up so bear with me. If I miss any thing please add it in.

First off lets look at the reason we have sway bars to begin with. A sway bar connects the left and right sides of a suspension together. During cornering, the body tends to lean or fall over. This is what is commonly referred to as body roll. Connected to each side of the axle, the pressure applied from cornering twists the sway bar against the lean, causing a reaction that produces a lifting force on the outside of the body and a downward force on the inside of the body. The idea of this is to keep the truck level helping even the weight on both tires, helping keep traction in a turn. In this case my truck is lifted and top heavy causing the truck to lean hard during cornering. When this happends it actuily lifts weight off the inside tires, causing the truck not to turn well. There are a few more down sides to the sway bar on a lifted truck. We will start with articulation. Because the sway bar links both sides of the axle togther trying to keep both tires at the same distance from the frame, it also holds the wheels from touching the ground when you need some twist. There is also the problem of lifted truck having stiff springs wich allready make them ride ruff. Now every time one wheel hits a pot hole or bump it is also twisting against the sway bar making it less responsive, causing a stiff ride.

Now that we understand what it dus and how it would benefit us to remove it, lets get about doing it.

First we will start by showing pictures of both the front and rear sway bar installed on my 89 bronco test truck.








To remove the front you will need a 18mm socket, 18mm wrench and a 13mm socket. Dont forget your ratchet for the socket






Now for the rear you will need a 14mm deep socket, a 15mm deep socket a 19mm wrench and a 19mm socket. sorry I left my 19mm wrench at work so I left my swaybar end links on the rear till tomorrow.





I will finish the picture section with both the front and rear laying on the shop floor waiting to be used as prybars or some other nifty tool.






After doing this I took my truck for a test ride and it actuily helped more than I ever could have imagined. The truck not only rides better it steers easyer. I hope this helps you.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-11-2007, 09:03 PM
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Hemi, I did the same thing with the front, took it off at the dog bones, so far, me likey, much better on road, just gotta remember its a truck not a ricer in the corners.....thinking about doing the back soon.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 11:18 AM
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I put mine back on a month ago.
Truck rode like a rolly polly without them.

Every truck and there driver is diferant.

86 Bronco - 357W/AOD - 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift - 38" TSL Radials - 456:1 Gears
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-12-2007, 06:36 PM
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I don't have them on mine, I can feel the roll into corners, but thats totally expected with a lift.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 02:03 AM
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none on mine...truck drives great...but thats mostly do to the SAS

yup i said it!

little body roll in the front...but the truck drives as well as it did stock in the corners...almost anyways

dc

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I want to convert my 4wd Superduty to 2wd. I can take apart a flashlight in under a minute. So im sure i can handle this
check out the broncos full rebuild
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 08:02 AM
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took mine off a year ago. before new shocks it felt like a bobble head doll
put new rancho's on and I don't even miss them. ttb w/ no lift 33s fenders trimmed
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 04:46 PM
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I'm not sure I would take it off of a TTB unless I had quad-shocks and stiff springs. I took it off my 78 and never noticed it was gone, buy my friends 84 was a bit squirelly until he added quad-shocks - nitros. Now it handles better than it did with the sway-bar, but as the shocks wear it will slowly get worse.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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yea I also have quad shocks
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-13-2007, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncoboy993 View Post
Just wondering, has anybody ever had their rig turn on its side while going around a corner as a result of sway bar removal? This might encourage/discourage DD from taking theirs off.
Never put it on its side.
Never noticed too much difference on dry pavement, but without them it was a nightmare on dirt.
Without them the outside rear tire was allways digging in when corning hard and on the gas. Digging in hard enough to lift the inside rear off the ground and plowing the front end down to the point it was resting on the bumpstop (body roll bad enough to make a 33" tire hit the fender and body mount).

Without the front bar it was never predictable how it would steer on landing anytime the front tires came of the ground or even just when the front end was fully extended. If you came down straight there was a 50/50 chance that the truck would stay straight, if you hit at an angle you never knew where the truck was going.

With the rear bar the rearend will predictably slide around any way you push it. the Front bar really hides the bad points of the inverted Y steering system, without the bar its possible to steer the tire thats on the compressed side of the suspention, while the tire thats extended down stays fairly strait as its tierod just pivots up without moving that tire much. By limiting the amount one side of the suspention moves over the other side, the bar effectivly makes steering predictable at high speed over rough terrain.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84bluebronco View Post
Never put it on its side.
Never noticed too much difference on dry pavement, but without them it was a nightmare on dirt.
Without them the outside rear tire was allways digging in when corning hard and on the gas. Digging in hard enough to lift the inside rear off the ground and plowing the front end down to the point it was resting on the bumpstop (body roll bad enough to make a 33" tire hit the fender and body mount).

Without the front bar it was never predictable how it would steer on landing anytime the front tires came of the ground or even just when the front end was fully extended. If you came down straight there was a 50/50 chance that the truck would stay straight, if you hit at an angle you never knew where the truck was going.

With the rear bar the rearend will predictably slide around any way you push it. the Front bar really hides the bad points of the inverted Y steering system, without the bar its possible to steer the tire thats on the compressed side of the suspention, while the tire thats extended down stays fairly strait as its tierod just pivots up without moving that tire much. By limiting the amount one side of the suspention moves over the other side, the bar effectivly makes steering predictable at high speed over rough terrain.


sounds like to me you just have some realy soft springs. My truck plowed or pushed with the sway bars extreamly bad. Im running 38`s on my ttb truck and no sway bars and I havent had a problem with it yet.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 06:54 AM
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me and a buddy have a woods bko up in perry fl on 44 ttb no sway bars and dont even remember the last time we changed the oil in it. no problems yet and it aint even taken care of at all.all we do is beat on it and use it for hunting

dont fake the funk on a nasty dunk
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-14-2007, 12:27 PM
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no problems without the front one for me. I left the back one on for towing the trailer.

Sliding rear windows, GT roll bar, Cargo net and looking for other rare options. 4.10 gears LSD 33" MTs First ever Stock Fullsize of the Month...
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