Thanks, Seboh, thats the stuff I was lookin for. I know the 14b is supposed to get a spool and ARB soon, but ARB has been saying that for awhile. Spool should be here in June.
Some more 9" Stuff:
**** For a "poor mans" Full Floater Ford 9", use...
1. Front GM spindles (pre-78 Dana 44 version)
2. Brake calipers from same set up
3. Hubs and rotors from Ford 1/2 ton front Dana 44, pre-80
4. Weld tab on top and bottom of Ford 9" flange. Drill to achieve
full 6 hole bolt circle (some rear flanges already have 4 holes
in correct position. Others may need an "adapter" plate welded
to stock flange for correct bolt circle dimensions
5. Bolt everything up. Measure from side gear splines in differential
out to where the drive flange in the hub will engage
6. Have double splined axles made to fit. This is the only real
"custom expense" you will have to incur. You're done
7. Now you'll have a full floating 9" with readily available parts at
any salvage yard in case of an emergency as well as instant rear
disc brakes as well.
**** Details on the spindle...
The spindle "pilot" that originally slipped into the center of the front
knuckle, will need to be turned down to center inside where the old 9" wheel
Also, there are several options to seal the axle...
1. Use the existing inner seal, and have the new shaft machined for it.
The hub would be maintained with grease, just as if you would in the
2. Use no seals whatsoever, and run the bearings in gear lube. HOWEVER,
then there needs to be an anti-drain back ring installed, so the wheel
(hub) bearings are always bathed in gear oil, even when tilted to one
side, cornering, and even when (if) the differential runs dry. The seal
will effectively be the O-ring on the hub cap. This means there needs to
be a good seal between the spindle and housing, and on the hub cap. Less
maintenance with this option.
**** Strength adding tips...
a. Use 31 spline inner diff carrier
b. Make a fine splined drive gear in place of the course spline used
in most Dana 44 lockouts. This will prevent the use of standard
lockouts (which are sloppy and failure prone anyway), but the
increase in strength will be significant.
**** CHEAP REAR DISK BRAKE for a Ford 9"...
What I've done in the past for rear GM discs is this...
1. Take the Dana 44 GM front backing plate/caliper mount
2. Cut the opening like a 'horseshoe'
3. Slide the backing plate over the axle tube, behind the housing flange
4. Run bolts from behind, through the backing plate, then the housing
flange, then the axle retaining flange.
5. Only three bolts will hold the caliper mount on now, and the 4th bolt
will just hold the axle retaining plate to the housing flange.
6. You may have to turn down the O.D. of the axle wheel flange to allow
a stock Ford front rotor to slip over the top
7. Longer wheel studs are needed for the additional rotor thickness
8. I like to use tubing and cut them as thin spacer rings that slip over
the wheel studs like wedding rings. This will prevent the rotor from
rotating slightly in the holes under hard braking
9. A set of GM calipers, and flexible hoses to mate with the steel brake
lines are all that's needed.
I have run these even with only three bolts on some pretty heavy rigs, with ZERO
problems. The reason that the caliper mount has to go BEHIND the axle housing
flange, is because if mounted on the outside, the caliper pad to disc alignment
will be off.
Very inexpensive, very effective, and uses ALL stock components.
Written By Randy Thomas of Performance Unlimited