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Is there really an advantage to dual front shocks

45K views 47 replies 30 participants last post by  stewartjwnls 
#1 ·
Can anyone explain the real differences (advantages and disadvantages) to running dual front shocks opposed to single front shocks on a FSB?

The front/front shocks on my 92 FSB just seem to get in the way. They bump the springs, and I can't do a TRE flip with the superrunner steering because the lower front/front shock mounts are in the way with the wheel turned all the way when articulated.

I really want to eliminate the front/front shocks and lower bracket but would like to know what purpose they serve before doing so. I currently run all doetsch shocks from broncograveyard with a 5.5" superflex lift.
 
#8 ·
The purpose of a shock is to slow the spring's rebound (pushing DOWN, raising the vehicle). 2 shocks per wheel will cause the vehicle to ride slighly lower while crossing stretches of large bumps than it would with single or no shocks. The effect is that the tire stays in contact with the ground slightly more, giving you more steering & braking control.

Stock quad front shocks have no impact on towing capacity or wheel travel/articulation. Once you mess with the suspension, who knows...
 
#10 ·
The purpose of a shock is to slow the spring's rebound (pushing DOWN, raising the vehicle). 2 shocks per wheel will cause the vehicle to ride slighly lower while crossing stretches of large bumps than it would with single or no shocks. The effect is that the tire stays in contact with the ground slightly more, giving you more steering & braking control.
that is just wrong. shocks control compression and rebound. without shocks, the wheels will just violently shoot up into the wheel wells every time you hit a bump then violently rebound.
 
#11 ·
If you ever drove on a washboard gravel road for many miles you would see the difference in how long before your hands go numb. The dual shocks seem to do better with smoothing out the ride over a distance, and i believe it's got to do with how hot the shocks get when there's two working on each side opposed to one.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Your exactly right as the oil in them heats it thins allowing shock travel at a slightly quicker rate. Two will split the load. Changing the set up on the valving of your shocks can help that as well if it is an option.

boostedpgt said:
that is just wrong. shocks control compression and rebound. without shocks, the wheels will just violently shoot up into the wheel wells every time you hit a bump then violently rebound.
I think what Steve has failed to mention he is referring to gas shocks. When you cut the banding off of them they force them self fully extended. Most of us in the 4X4 world toss those in the trash because lets face it they suck. Most of us go to something like a Procomp, Rancho, Super Lift, or what ever rebadged white shock you get with your name brand sticker. (I run them because I destroy shocks for some weird reason and performance is not bad.)


Procomp said:
ES3000 Series Shocks
Expanded twin tube hydraulic performance shock
Cellular gas insert reduces aeration and foaming
10 stage velocity sensitive valving
Internal bump stop eliminates damage caused by overextension I know this one to be true thanks for the free bump stops:histerica
1 3/8” nylon banded piston rod
5/8” chrome hardened piston rod
Optional shock boots sold separately
Now back in my drag racing days shocks were a huge deal. We would set up the car with 90/10 shocks. We would make the car squat quick in the back and rise slow and the front we would let the front end pop up and fall slowly. This gave great weight transfer and traction off the line.

Set up for anything is key know your car and know what you want to do with it. I say if its a road queen then leave all 4. If your like me and remove your sway bars to go off road consider leaving 4 on it. It will help a little with the body roll while on the street.
 
#14 ·
No sway bars on mine and I have the quad shock set up still.. I dont even notice the body roll driving the bko. Shit, the on ramp on the way to school tightly circles from the overpass to going under where you just were.. mph sign says 20-25? I'm taking it at 30-35.. :thumbup stiff RC suspension helps to keep me grounded...
same here qwad shocks and no sway bars and i haven't noticed extreme body roll so, and the only reason it would limit articulation would be if u have a short front shock just depends on the stroke of the shocks u have
 
#15 ·
same here qwad shocks and no sway bars and i haven't noticed extreme body roll so, and the only reason it would limit articulation would be if u have a short front shock just depends on the stroke of the shocks u have
The travel of the shock needs to accomodate the coils possible travel, with any limit straps or bump stops included in the equation. Most of the ttb lifted stiff coils don't have a bunch of travel here, they aren't very long and the coil rods are thicker.
 
#18 ·
Correct. But that's not to say that a good quality single and stiff shock can't handle this too. With towing a heavy load, when braking (assuming a trailer doesn't have brakes too), the trailer can push the bronco and cause it to nose down in front and get light in the rear, if the front suspension is soft. Added weight of a plow up front can sag the front, but also cause bouncing if the coils are old or shocks worn. dual shocks in good condition help control any front bouncing from weight as well.

Again though, going back to the question, can I remove the dual shocks, and the answer with ttb is certainly yes, given a good condition stiff ttb coil without that much travel, and not towing heavy loads or plowing. A single quality shock will work just fine.
 
#24 ·
Well, I don't have top end power with the 300, so I have to take that corner faster to get into the traffic in the morning. Mine has a SLIGHT body roll but its only really that noticeable on slower corners that are pretty sharp
 
#28 ·
so I have the duel setup up front and I have heard a lot about what types of shocks to run together. it is a big deal I know but I still dont know what ones are the best together. can someone tell me what shocks i should run side by side up there. its a DD. nothing special just looking for better ride. have stock coils and junky rancho duel shocks. thanks.
 
#32 ·
Ive heard that, and I can testify that, the quads give you more stability in aggrivated driving situations. I had singles, or staggered, shocks on my daily driver from the factory.

Ive since taken the quads off my beater to transplant onto my daily driver/restoration.

There is some care that needs to be taken here tho. All the shocks out there are all valved diffently. If you intend to run 4 shocks, then each is valved accordingly for that application.

similarly, if you have singles, those shocks are valved accordingly as well. The shocks need to be purchased as such. If you have 4 shocks and simply remove 2, then you will have unintended, and/or unexpected driving characteristics.

I learned all this while researching which shocks to run for my daily driver. I talked to the folks at bilstein. They helped out alot, but in the end, they didnt have a bolt on application for my lifted daily driver so I just ran 4 pro comp es3000's. They came valved according to my front end needing 4 shocks.

Make sense?
 
#34 ·
Is that the same as the world wide intergoogle? I have that , but when I'm on it, I can't take any phone calls.

Lol, sorry, it's been a long day.
Shock fade. Yep, like mentioned earlier about a long washout road. The shocks get tired and hot and become less effective. 4 shocks, it valving is matched correctly, would lessen the severity of shock fade.
 
#38 ·
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