Rear Axle Guide - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #81 of 217 (permalink) Old 12-20-2007, 02:12 AM
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Bronco Info: Building a buggy bronco
he says "it is out of an f350. it is driver side drop (for you tj, yj, and xj guys). it is also hi pinion with 4.10 gears in it. it is from a dually, so it has the dual rear wheel hubs up front. the only thing that is missing are brake calipers. you would probably want to get new rotors also."

his friend then says.. "It's a pretty good axle. There is nothing wrong with the axle, just the missing brake calipers. I don't even think the rotors need to be replaced. Just scuffed up or ground down a little bit. Just surface rust from what I remember."

he later says.. "i haven't had a chance to get on the computer. the axle is wide. probably about 78 inches wms to wms. this is with the dually hubs. you can switch them out to srw. this would save about 5-6 inches per side."

lookin back on another site, someone said it came off a 97 dually.. dont know how much difference that makes..
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post #82 of 217 (permalink) Old 12-20-2007, 06:12 PM
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its off a 85,, just asked him..

I just moved my comments to the other thread, maybe 30 minutes ago..
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post #83 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 01:09 AM
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I don't know if this is the right forum but I have a 10.25 sterling ff that I have just gotten and I am trying to figure out if its short or long pinion. I have searched through almost every thread on here and pirate that even mentions the 10.25 and haven't found an answer. It has the VSS plug so I know its newer than 87 but I don't know if its 94+ or not. Any help would be appreciated as I'm ready to start building this thing. There is no axle tag and the only numbers on it are stamped on the gears (3.55 open) : E5TW BA 1139 6FD
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post #84 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 01:17 AM
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my 89 was short pinion yours probablly is too. i think its 93+ that are long pinion. correct me if im wrong


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post #85 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 01:33 AM
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Is there anything that changed between the short and long pinion appearance wise. I guess I could just go ahead and buy a new yoke for a bigger ujoint since I have to get a new driveshaft anyway.
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post #86 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 02:04 AM
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The housings are identical between the long pinion and short pinion 10.25, the length of the pinion is the only difference.
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post #87 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave's Bronc 90 View Post
The housings are identical between the long pinion and short pinion 10.25, the length of the pinion is the only difference.

yup same housing different pinion and yoke. if your gunna get a new yoke might as well convert to long pinion since short pinion gear sets are more hard to come by anyway


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post #88 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 04:41 AM
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yup same housing different pinion and yoke. if your gunna get a new yoke might as well convert to long pinion since short pinion gear sets are more hard to come by anyway
You're right, I forgot about the yoke. When I was looking at gears for mine I think Randy's was the only place I saw that even stocked short pin gear sets, which are a complete waste IMO.
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post #89 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-06-2008, 03:49 PM
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most times, when changing the gears, people will put the long pinion stuff in becuase its stronger. i would also recommend buying a new yoke.

1996 302 E4OD BW1356(clocked)
10.25 Rear D60 Front
5.13's, ARB's, OBA, Custom Bumpers

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/...il.php?id=7622
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post #90 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 12:38 AM
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Bronco Info: 1993 F-150 XLT 4x4 300/E4OD
i read about a solid spacer that replaced the crush sleeve, any ideas of info on that?

also, can i get a new pinion nut at any local parts store?

1993 F-150 XLT 4x4
-300/E4OD/SA D44/8.8/BW1356
1988 F-350 Custom 4x4
-7.3IDI/ZF/D60/10.25/BW1356
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post #91 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 12:57 AM
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i read about a solid spacer that replaced the crush sleeve, any ideas of info on that?

also, can i get a new pinion nut at any local parts store?
idk ive never heard about that, but thats the standard way to set the pinion bearing preload on most ford axles, and it seems to work fine, idk why you would ditch it and get a solid spacer. maybe thats just me

and about the pinion nut, we couldnt answer that, youd have to go find out or call. every stores a little different


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post #92 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 12:57 AM
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i think its for the 10.50 but can also work on the 10.25.

1993 F-150 XLT 4x4
-300/E4OD/SA D44/8.8/BW1356
1988 F-350 Custom 4x4
-7.3IDI/ZF/D60/10.25/BW1356
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post #93 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Optika1 illushun View Post
i think its for the 10.50 but can also work on the 10.25.
some specs on what exactly you have and what exactly you want to do would help. im kinda confussed now


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post #94 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 02:21 AM
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Pinion preload spacer, either OE crush collar or aftermarket solid spacer kit... I used one on my 10.5 and would definitely recommend using one over the factory setup.
thats all the info i have from another site. im just wondering if anyone else used one or knows about it.

1993 F-150 XLT 4x4
-300/E4OD/SA D44/8.8/BW1356
1988 F-350 Custom 4x4
-7.3IDI/ZF/D60/10.25/BW1356
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post #95 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 04:26 AM
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I've used the solid spacers in both my 8.8 and my 10.25 and I prefer them over the crush sleeve. The biggest problem with the crush sleeve is that if you happen to over crush it, you're boned. You've got to go get another one. The solid spacer isn't truly solid; it's actually a thick spacer with a stack of shims to achieve the thickness you want. You just add shims until you get the preload you need. Another nice thing about it is it lets you go back in to replace the pinion yoke later if you should ever need to replace it due to damage or upgrade, and you won't have to worry about messing up the pinion preload. Also, it's not uncommon for a crush sleeve to crush a little further over the life of the axle, which in turn lowers the pinion preload and can damage the bearings. Clearly a solid spacer won't crush over time, so it avoids that mode of failure entirely. I bought mine from Reider Racing, although I think that just about anybody who sells gears and axle parts can get them.

I should mention though, the crush sleeve generally is faster to install because there is no trial and error involved. I have heard of people crushing the crush sleeve to get the proper dimension, then pulling out the crush sleeve and building a shim pack for the solid spacer to make it that same size. That would probably be the quickest way to go with the solid spacer.
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post #96 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 12:24 PM
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thanx!

do i need a new crush sleeve if im just replacing the pinion seal? obviously i had to take the yoke off. or can i just torque it back down to spec.

1993 F-150 XLT 4x4
-300/E4OD/SA D44/8.8/BW1356
1988 F-350 Custom 4x4
-7.3IDI/ZF/D60/10.25/BW1356
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post #97 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 03:37 PM
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You can try, and hope the crush sleeve doesnt crush any more. The best thing to do would have been to measure the pinion preload before you took the yoke off, and then re-measured it after you put it back on. Id just torque it down and hope for the best.
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post #98 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 04:56 PM
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Just removing the yoke should do nothing to change the pinion depth. The BEST thing would be to have a spare crush sleeve handy. Measure the pinion preload prior to removing yoke. If it's in spec try to put it back to that same spot, if it's a little loose as it often will be, try to put it back in spec. It's not like tightening most bolts to a given torque, because pre-load is of primary importance. Try putting the original crush sleeve back in and torquing down the pinion nut, but if you over shoot the preload spec you'll have to pull it back out and try again with the fresh crush sleeve. If I were doing it, I would take this as a good chance to upgrade to a solid spacer. It just eliminates all of the crush sleeve set up problems.
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post #99 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-21-2008, 08:19 PM
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for now im just gunna throw it back together and torque it down. i dont go very far with it (10 miles at the max in one trip) but i need it because im using my dads F-150 and he may get called back to work soon. i dont have anyway to check the pre-load anyway and when i took the nut off it was very easy to get off with the impact.

i will look into the solid spacer kit though on reider racings website.

1993 F-150 XLT 4x4
-300/E4OD/SA D44/8.8/BW1356
1988 F-350 Custom 4x4
-7.3IDI/ZF/D60/10.25/BW1356
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post #100 of 217 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 01:38 PM
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10.25 rear seal kit part #

the ford 10.25 part number on the first page is incorrect and should be changed to:

F4TZ1S177C <-- the 'S' is missing from the first page.

Chris

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