Rear Axle Guide - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 01:27 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Axle Guide

Every week we get questions about what rear axle I can put under my bronco. So I complained we should have an outline so people will read that first. But they wont. Oh well. Here it is off the top of my head. Please add/edit at will. I know I forgot all the dates and crap.

All axles are 1 ton, 8 lug, full floating axles unless specified. Obviously some cons wont affect your swap, like if you do not need VSS, or if you dont care you have a GM rear axle. Some are also a little bit biased towards what I like, but hey, if you didnt want to read and learn all the shit I did, then stfu. I also didnt bother with shaft sizes or bearing this and splines that. Because a 1 ton is basically a 1 ton, some have some weak spots. Your driving style, terrain, suspension and tires will affect breakage more than the difference between a 14b and a D70.

Please keep out the editorial bullshit. If you post, post some good info or links.

Ford 8.8 Rear Axle

Pros
  • It's Under There Already
  • VSS/ABS Models

Cons
  • 5 lug, 1/2 ton, Semi-Floater
  • C-Clips
  • Weak Carrier Bearing Caps
  • Weak Housings

Ford 9" Rear Axle

Pros
  • Common
  • Tons of Aftermarket Parts
  • Ground Clearance
  • Full-Floater Conversions
  • Indestructable (If You Have the Cash)

Cons
  • 5 lug, 1/2 Ton, Semi-Floater
  • No VSS/ABS
  • Low Pinion
  • See "If You Have the Cash"

Dana 60 Rear End

Pros
  • Some 35 spline
  • Good Aftermarket
  • Decent Ground Clearance
  • Rare VSS Models

Cons
  • Some 16 Spline
  • Most Non VSS/ABS
  • 3/4 ton? 1 ton? Who the Hell Knows

Dana 70 Rear End

If you want a 1-ton axle, but don't need VSS, and loathe GM, this axle is for you.

Pros
  • Fairly Common
  • Cheap
  • Bulletproof In Stock Form

Cons
  • No Spool
  • Poor Ground Clearance
  • Non VSS/ABS

Visteon Sterling 10.25

If you want a 1-ton axle, and you need VSS, this axle is for you.

Pros
  • VSS Compatable in '87+ (with speedo re-calc)
  • 90% Bolt In
  • Ford PN F4TZ-1177-C Fixes Pre-'94 Axle Seal Problem

Cons
  • Weak Pinion Threads
  • Axle Seals Leak
  • Some Limited Gear Ratios, No Spool
  • Expensive

Corporate 14 Bolt

If you want a 1-ton axle, don't need VSS, and don't care about "brand loyalty", this axle is for you.

Pros
  • Dirt Cheap
  • Bulletproof In Stock Form
  • Cheap Detroits
  • Can Shave Pumpkin
  • Some Stock Detroits and 4.11 or 4.56s Gears

Cons
  • No VSS/ABS
  • No Spools or ARB
  • Some Semi-Float Versions
  • Massive Pumpkin
  • *gasp!* It's GM
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post #3 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 09:29 AM
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Sterling Axle Seal Repair http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...%20Replacement

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post #5 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 09:47 AM
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D70 has ARB, Detroit, Lock-Rite and Power-Lock (Dana limited grip) in the 35spl variety. Excellent ratio selection as well. Only thing I don't see right now is a spool... but those could very well be available. I didn't look very hard.

The 14B spool and ARB should be available any-day-now. It might still be 6mos out, but they're coming. 14B also has the advantage of being stupid-easy to set up. The 9" is based on the same design. Some infrequent reports of people not being able to keep inner pinion support bearings in them. No idea why. It could be a housing deflection/alignment problem (since some do it repeatedly)

Some more cons for the 10.25: it's the pinion threads that are weak, not the splines. Pinion seals leak, often due to problems keeping pinion preload (see weak threads) and minimizing bearing wear. The yoke/pinion shaft got redesigned at some point (the long/short yoke question). Most dealers go by 92 and earlier as "short", and 93+ as "long", but I had a 95 (or 96??) rear with a short yoke. The pinion bearings got redesigned again when they went to the 10.50.
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post #6 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Seboh, thats the stuff I was lookin for. I know the 14b is supposed to get a spool and ARB soon, but ARB has been saying that for awhile. Spool should be here in June.

Some more 9" Stuff:

Quote:
**** For a "poor mans" Full Floater Ford 9", use...
1. Front GM spindles (pre-78 Dana 44 version)
2. Brake calipers from same set up
3. Hubs and rotors from Ford 1/2 ton front Dana 44, pre-80
4. Weld tab on top and bottom of Ford 9" flange. Drill to achieve
full 6 hole bolt circle (some rear flanges already have 4 holes
in correct position. Others may need an "adapter" plate welded
to stock flange for correct bolt circle dimensions
5. Bolt everything up. Measure from side gear splines in differential
out to where the drive flange in the hub will engage
6. Have double splined axles made to fit. This is the only real
"custom expense" you will have to incur. You're done
7. Now you'll have a full floating 9" with readily available parts at
any salvage yard in case of an emergency as well as instant rear
disc brakes as well.


**** Details on the spindle...

The spindle "pilot" that originally slipped into the center of the front
knuckle, will need to be turned down to center inside where the old 9" wheel
bearing sat.

Also, there are several options to seal the axle...

1. Use the existing inner seal, and have the new shaft machined for it.
The hub would be maintained with grease, just as if you would in the
front.

2. Use no seals whatsoever, and run the bearings in gear lube. HOWEVER,
then there needs to be an anti-drain back ring installed, so the wheel
(hub) bearings are always bathed in gear oil, even when tilted to one
side, cornering, and even when (if) the differential runs dry. The seal
will effectively be the O-ring on the hub cap. This means there needs to
be a good seal between the spindle and housing, and on the hub cap. Less
maintenance with this option.



**** Strength adding tips...

a. Use 31 spline inner diff carrier
b. Make a fine splined drive gear in place of the course spline used
in most Dana 44 lockouts. This will prevent the use of standard
lockouts (which are sloppy and failure prone anyway), but the
increase in strength will be significant.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

**** CHEAP REAR DISK BRAKE for a Ford 9"...

What I've done in the past for rear GM discs is this...

1. Take the Dana 44 GM front backing plate/caliper mount
2. Cut the opening like a 'horseshoe'
3. Slide the backing plate over the axle tube, behind the housing flange
4. Run bolts from behind, through the backing plate, then the housing
flange, then the axle retaining flange.
5. Only three bolts will hold the caliper mount on now, and the 4th bolt
will just hold the axle retaining plate to the housing flange.
6. You may have to turn down the O.D. of the axle wheel flange to allow
a stock Ford front rotor to slip over the top
7. Longer wheel studs are needed for the additional rotor thickness
8. I like to use tubing and cut them as thin spacer rings that slip over
the wheel studs like wedding rings. This will prevent the rotor from
rotating slightly in the holes under hard braking
9. A set of GM calipers, and flexible hoses to mate with the steel brake
lines are all that's needed.

I have run these even with only three bolts on some pretty heavy rigs, with ZERO
problems. The reason that the caliper mount has to go BEHIND the axle housing
flange, is because if mounted on the outside, the caliper pad to disc alignment
will be off.

Very inexpensive, very effective, and uses ALL stock components.
Written By Randy Thomas of Performance Unlimited
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post #7 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 11:12 AM
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post #8 of 217 (permalink) Old 05-18-2004, 01:08 PM
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post #9 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-21-2004, 02:30 AM
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Excuse my ignorance

But what is "VSS"?
I am looking to possibly swap out my rear 8.8 for a one ton & was checking out your list.
Very helpfull by the way.
I think I probably need that "VSS" I have a 1990 bronco.
So what one ton rear would be the easiest and best swap for me?

Thanks

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post #10 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-21-2004, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cant afford it
But what is "VSS"?
I am looking to possibly swap out my rear 8.8 for a one ton & was checking out your list.
Very helpfull by the way.
I think I probably need that "VSS" I have a 1990 bronco.
So what one ton rear would be the easiest and best swap for me?

Thanks
This was explained in one of your other threads. VSS helps is on this board.

2 minute search found this which tells you that 92 and up Broncos have the VSS on the rear dif, hence needing a rear axles with the sensor, your 90 is not in jeopardy.

Also this gives a thorough explanation of what a VSS is and does.

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92 Centurion 7.3idi, Banks non-wastegated turbo, 35's.
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post #11 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-21-2004, 09:53 PM
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Hey smooth!!

thanks for the link..
Ok so now I understand basiclly what it does but not one person said what it stands for..
Nobody has told me what it stands for!!!

Probably something like variable speed sensor

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post #12 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 07:39 AM
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I don't think you are really reading these links. The 9th post in the second link I gave you says the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy351
Vehicle speed sensor. its tells the computer(s) what speed you are going.
The 10th post says this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by origin
Vehicle Speed Sensor

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post #13 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 02:29 PM
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No I just look at the pictures!

Seriously , I must of missed that Or responded before I got to it!

Sorry!

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post #14 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-22-2004, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOOTH
tells you that 92 and up Broncos have the VSS on the rear dif, hence needing a rear axles with the sensor, your 90 is not in jeopardy.
the VSS for the pre '92 is in the t-case yes, but the '91 and earlier still has a tone ring in back if it had RABS. its the same tone ring and the same connector as the VSS that reads for the various computers.

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post #15 of 217 (permalink) Old 06-24-2004, 03:17 AM
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Can anyone post some pics of this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy351
the VSS for the pre '92 is in the t-case yes, but the '91 and earlier still has a tone ring in back if it had RABS. its the same tone ring and the same connector as the VSS that reads for the various computers.
So I am told so many diff. things by many diff . people such as I have the axle VSS then I'm told I have the transfer case VSS....
Can someone please post some pics of both?
Maybe that way when I get back my bronco from the shop I could climb under & look for my self...
I am lead to believe from my repair book that I might have 4 wheel ABS.
Is that possible In a 1990XLT?
Was It even an option?
If I do have ABS then It dont work!!
Maybe I dont even have it!
I thought the book said they all did after (something like 1986 (I think))
But I think that if there was a pic of what to look for, Then It will end this ..
For me anyway.

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post #16 of 217 (permalink) Old 07-22-2004, 04:30 PM
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the axle seals for the sterling can also be purchased at o'rielys now for a lot less than ford, ford was $78.95 for each side, and o'riellys was $26, my friend replaced his with the ones from orielys last year and hasnt had any leaking problems yet.just thought i would share this.

its a jeep thing eh, your right i wouldnt understand!!

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post #17 of 217 (permalink) Old 07-22-2004, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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you have any part numbers?
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post #18 of 217 (permalink) Old 07-23-2004, 12:26 AM
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sure the part number is 370047A and it is a national seal from o'reilly auto parts. and it was $26.99 to be exact, just installed both of mine i'll post up in a week or two to confirm quality.

its a jeep thing eh, your right i wouldnt understand!!

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post #19 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-08-2004, 06:22 PM
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here is a comparison pic of a 14 bolt shaft versus a sterling, just for info. The shafts are just about identical, but the splines on the 14 bolt are a little bigger, as is the neck just before the mounting flange(if thats the right term, where it attaches to the hub.)

I replaced my rear hub seals on the sterling with some scott seals (taken from some writeup I found somewhere) and havent had a problem with them. the pinion seal leak is another story however



Stupid is as Stupid does

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post #20 of 217 (permalink) Old 08-08-2004, 09:50 PM
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that was just what i was wondering, when the seals are replaced with upgraded, updated quality parts, about how long do they tend to hold out before any leaking occurs again??

someday............
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