SAS D44 COIL - 96 FULLSIZE - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 41 (permalink) Old 01-07-2015, 09:26 AM
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One thing the picture of the gear pattern is on the coast side not the more important drive side. And yes, it is not deep enough.

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post #22 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Guys! Back on my continuing 4-year SAS project!!!!!! Waxed out the stock buckets and am waiting on some upper buckets, upper shock mounts, and a trac-bar mount. Getting closer, hope to finally see this thing supporting its own weight this month!!

When mounting my upper coil tower, I was going to use the hole that the stock bumpstock uses as my dead center. Thoughts?

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post #23 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 04:30 PM
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I wouldn't just assume the bump stop is centered. To get it dialed in, first be sure your radius arms are adjusted front to back where they would be when finished. I wouldn't worry about it being dead nuts but try to get it within .25". Then jack up the axle to where it would sit at ride height. This of course depends on compressed coil length and where the top of the coil bucket will ultimately sit.
Once you get the axle up where it will be at ride height, plumb up from the center of the coil seat an mark center on the frame. Be sure when you do this your truck is sitting level or plumbing it will not work correctly.
Ideally your mark on the frame would be the same on both sides. However, in a real world situation like this that is very unlikely to happen, especially if you don't have the radius arms perfectly positioned. I would say as long as both marks are within .25"-.375 of each other you will be fine. Then simply split the difference so both coil buckets are mounted in the exact same place on the frame.
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post #24 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-10-2016, 06:39 PM
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With the axle sitting on jack stands at my estimated ride height, I first dropped a line from the center of the top of the fender opening to the hub, basically to get the axle as close to the centerline of the fender opening as possible (which pushes the axle forward by around a half inch or so). I did this for the driver side only.


Then I dropped a line from the frame to the center of the coil retainer, and used the forward-most coil retainer bolt as my reference. Then measured from the front of the frame to the plumb line string (removing the bumper makes this easy). I then dropped a line to the same reference point on the axle for the passenger side, using my measurement from the driver side to tell me where to drop the line. As long as my frame is square (it is), that put both dropped plumb lines within 1/16-1/8 of an inch from each other, which I figured was close enough. I marked the frame where the lines were.


I then made a center line on my new coil tower, and basically just lined up the centerline of the tower with the mark I made from the plumb line.


With the tower clamped onto the frame, I used the forward-most rivet hole on the frame (where the old coil tower was), and let that be my reference point for drilling and mounting the new coil towers. Marked it with a marker from inside the framerail, and now knew where to drill my first hole for mounting the new towers.


The rivet holes are mirrored identical from passenger to driver side, so they make a good reference point for mounting the new towers, which I found gets them to be located practically identical on both sides.
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post #25 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thx for all the info guys, ive been plumbing and measuring all day. Im having trouble getting the drivers side tower to sit flush. The drivers side frame seems to bend outward towards the top. Anyways ive been viewing threads and found most people are mounting over this bend and as far foward as possible. So im assuming the tower doesnt have to be perfectly flush? Once i torque it down it should be alright?

Also how do you level your vehicle? by eye or is there a specific spot on the frame I should be using a level gauge?

Also anyone have a compressed coil measurement for a 79' 7" Deaver superflex coil?? I realize ever vehicle will be different but im just trying to get a close estimate. The specs are 300 lbs / sq inch and 25" unloaded. I think the compressed length will probably drop to around 20".
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post #26 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 09:09 PM
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I doubt those would compress to 20". I'm using 5" Deavers, and they are right at 21" compressed, from 23" uncompressed. This is with a 300 I6 engine and no front bumper. They may drop down a bit after I put on my plate bumper, and I assume they'll settle a bit, but as they sit right now, 21" is compressed.


The little bulge at the top-front of the driver-side frame rail is how my frame was as well. I also had a problem with getting the bucket to sit flush to the frame, so I took my grinder with a flap wheel and sanded down a bit of clearance on the tower. I figure they're strong enough that the small bit of material I removed isn't going to hurt it, strength-wise, and you don't need to take off a whole lot. After grinding down a bit of clearance, the bucket sits flush with the frame. Passenger side does not have this issue. I just wasn't comfortable with the idea of the tower not sitting flush with the frame.


It's also worth mentioning that if you position the tower forward a bit, there is an engine crossmember directly behind the frame rail right where the tower is positioned. This can affect where your bolt holes go, so keep that in mind before you go drilling. I had to offset a hole to allow me to get a fastener on it from behind, without interfering with the crossmember.


To keep the truck level, I just measure from the floor to the frame as it sits, then after removing the tires, I try to lower it back down onto jack stands to as close to that original height as possible, give or take a bit. It doesn't have to be perfectly level.


To position the towers level and flush with the frame, I just clamped a straight edge to the underside of the frame rail, then sat the tower down on it. A block of wood or scrap steel also works.. basically anything that is level and sturdy. That basically kept the tower flush and true with the frame.


I then clamped the towers mirrored together and put them in my drill press and was able to drill 3 of the 4 holes all at once, which meant they were all identical mirrored holes, so using an existing frame hole, they both bolt up exactly the same on each side. 1 of the 4 holes had to be offset to account for the driver-side engine crossmember.
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post #27 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally made some legitimate progress on the broncs today! First time in over three years she has stood on her own 4 wheels! The lift is so high, those deavers are no joke!!! She sits at 46" to the center of the wheel well!!!! I still have a lot of work to finish up but I have three days until I go back to work on Monday.

Drivers side tower


james duff tracbar mount, still need two more bolts in the crossmember, and may add a support bar to the crossmember at later date.


trac-bar issues, really didn't want to cut my cross member but tomorrows the day


made a huge mistake on the drivers side radius arm mount, the frame bends a little here and I didn't get the mount flush enough. the daylight is driving me nuts, I can't re-drill unless I move the whole bracket at least 3/4", not sure what im going to do, maybe try and shove a steel wedge in there, or I might die grind the side holes up a little and torque down the bottom one first to flush it up with the bottom of the frame.


pass side radius arm mount, looks ok


few pictures of the coils, I think they came out real nice, my wheelbases are around 104 1/8", the pass side is short by 1/8", I think the adjustments on the hiems can take care of that thou. the coils only compressed from 25" to about 23" and I have the winch/bump setup, so needless to say I was way off when estimating my lift height.





front view, like those perfect angles first try huh guys!!! custom drag link angles hahahah


it was nice to get her rolling and just look over everything, pulled her out in the alley and washed her down now I got her staged to use the lift for the rest of the work I have to do this weekend.


shes stink bugged for sure! im thinking I might wait to re-gear the rear end (I put 4.56 in the new d44 up front) and look for a ford 9" to put money into then swap that in the rear with a shackle flip to level it out, but im just thinking ahead for now. I might break down and buy a tie-rod drag-link setup this week. Also has anyone ever used a stock driveshaft with a lift this size? When I had the truck on the lift, the front axle was at full drop and my stock shaft can reach the u-joint without problem it seems. J/W cause I was pretty confident I was going to have to buy a longer one but I may be able to get away with this one.
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post #28 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 10:03 PM
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Awesome dude looks like you are about there.
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post #29 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 06:26 AM
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You are right! My bad! Summit has it!


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post #30 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianBuckelew View Post
trac-bar issues, really didn't want to cut my cross member but tomorrows the day

Should have got our track bar bracket
Otherwise it looks like your doing a nice job. You're going to have to put 40's on that thing to take up some of that wheel well space with it sitting that tall
I wouldn't call the radius arm bracket a "huge" mistake. It doesn't look like a big deal. You'll figure out a way go get it solid.
Almost there

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post #31 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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todays progress

finished radius arm bracket backing plates




finished trac-bar mount




cut crossmember :(


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post #32 of 41 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 08:00 AM
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Anymore updates? I am in a similar place with my SAS

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #33 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 11:58 AM
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Did you weld your coil buckets on?
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post #34 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:12 PM
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I bolted my coil buckets on. I could only get 3 bolts per side.

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #35 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 12:59 PM
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I only got 2 bolts on mine, wonder if I need more? Might get a friend to weld them too, idk?
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post #36 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 08:54 PM
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I'm curios about this 'i can only get 2 or 3 bolts in'. I plan on using 79 style buckets when I sas the bronco. It seems like on other threads I've seen, if you can't get bolts in the stock (79 bucket) location, you drill new holes in the bucket where you can get nuts on the back side of the frame. Perhaps I'm mistaken. I haven't lined up my 79 buckets with my 96 ones, but I wonder if you can drill the 79 buckets to match the rivet holes in the TTB ones?

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post #37 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 10:07 AM
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I actually got 4 in my PS and 3 in my DS. I used 1/2" grade 8 hardware.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #38 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 04:52 PM
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are you running the 96 hubs on the old rotors?

I am about to start the same process (79 D44). I need the ABS to pass state inspection.
it looked like BOSSIND asked in his thread if it had been done before but that is all i can find on using the the new style hubs to get the toner ring on there and then hopefully drill out the spindle flange to accommodate
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post #39 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-23-2017, 06:14 PM
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are you running the 96 hubs on the old rotors?

I am about to start the same process (79 D44). I need the ABS to pass state inspection.
it looked like BOSSIND asked in his thread if it had been done before but that is all i can find on using the the new style hubs to get the toner ring on there and then hopefully drill out the spindle flange to accommodate
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Out of curiosity, what does the inspection entail, i.e. do they actually pull diagnostic for ABS errors, do they physically look to see if sensors are hooked up, or is it simply a matter of a ABS dash light being on?

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post #40 of 41 (permalink) Old 02-24-2017, 10:03 AM
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Out of curiosity, what does the inspection entail, i.e. do they actually pull diagnostic for ABS errors, do they physically look to see if sensors are hooked up, or is it simply a matter of a ABS dash light being on?
they hook up to OBDII and verify that there are no codes thrown. Which does ABS have its own computer system not linked to the main system? If so i can just pull the bulb and inspection wont know. They do not physically check for sensors.

I have the ABS cutoff switch, i guess i can just see if codes come up when the fuse is cut...
But if the ABS does report to the ECM, i have to figure out how to make it think it is working

From this link, it looks like it does report codes for dignostic purposes and jumping these pins will eliminate that, although i do not know where this plug is

VSS speedo question
ABS Delete 94 Bronco

1996 stock 5.8 with 155k, 4.10 gears, eaton locker in rear, 35's, 4" lift, home made bumpers and sliders
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