SAS D44 COIL - 96 FULLSIZE - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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SAS D44 COIL - 96 FULLSIZE

Started my SAS this month and decided to post some pictures.







Im planning on running 6" deaver superflex coils with maybe just one good resivor shock behind the coil. extended arms with 7degree c-bushings, hopefully the stock 96 coil and shock bucket, but im forcasting tracbar issues so i may need to relocate

Hopefully this week ill get the internals together and the gears set properly, the outer hubs and brakes together, and build extended radius arms and brackets

post any commets on anyhting please!
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-25-2013, 07:04 AM
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You seem to have an impressive amount of work space in your garage! Good luck with the swap. Post lots of pics.
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 12:46 AM
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What is that holding the Bronco up? a bar stool? just kidding but I do hope its strong enough. I would suggesting moving the coil buckets forward as much as you can (usually about 1.5-2"), it helps with your approach and puts a little more weight behind the front axle and helps with the track bar clearing the cross member. Good luck
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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 02:13 PM
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Looks like you're well on your way. What gears are you going to run?


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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-26-2013, 03:17 PM
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If I could go back and do it all over again (which I am doing) I would not use the stock coil bucket/shock tower. Limits your shock options and you can't get a nice long travel shock in there. By having a seperate coil bucket and shock tower your options are pretty much endless.
With extended arms and superflexs you will most likely find you shock to be a limiting factor. One other thing I am definelty doing when I change my truck up is doing a joint on the frame side instead of that stupid bayonnette style. Im definietly interested to seee what you do with the arms post some pictures of the process if you do something different then most of the guys here.

Nice looking bronco and a nice work place it looks like, hope my mistakes can help you a bit

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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rclark12 View Post
If I could go back and do it all over again (which I am doing) I would not use the stock coil bucket/shock tower. Limits your shock options and you can't get a nice long travel shock in there. By having a seperate coil bucket and shock tower your options are pretty much endless.
With extended arms and superflexs you will most likely find you shock to be a limiting factor. One other thing I am definelty doing when I change my truck up is doing a joint on the frame side instead of that stupid bayonnette style. Im definietly interested to seee what you do with the arms post some pictures of the process if you do something different then most of the guys here.

Nice looking bronco and a nice work place it looks like, hope my mistakes can help you a bit
yea.

Although you can make a little bracket for an eye type shock mount up top, I did that many years ago when I had the ttb. But, as you said you still have length as a shortcoming. Plus the short ttb tower will leave lift height at perhaps 8" ? Is that what is wanted?

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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 01:04 PM
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^I rarely disagree with you but stock to stok a 78/79 bucket is 8" from bottom of frame rail to top of coil bucket, and the 80-96 is 11" , so in stock position you would net 3" more lift from a 78/79 bucket, unless its moved which I believe you did right? I know my stock 80-96 gave me 6" of lift with 6.5" super lift springs

Im not a 100% sure on the 78/79 coil bucket because im going off the top of my mind but I know the ttb bucket is 11". Im pretty dam sure about what I posted above, not to say things cant be adjusted to desirable height/lift

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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-06-2013, 02:46 PM
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As I recall there wasn't a 3" difference between ttb and 78-79, but in any case my recollection is that the ttb is like 1.5" shorter. Here are a few pics I dug up:





In that second pic you can see 2 marks on the right (it says top as well) and barely over on the left. In '05 when I did the swap I marked the height of the ttb coil before pulling it. The pic is a little misleading, and granted this is a JBG tower that was supposed to mimic stock 78-79 but you can see it's taller. Even if we pulled that tower down 1" it would still be a bit taller. Just measuring my tower today it's at 12" frame to top of coil inside tower, so take away 1" and you have 11", and that is what the 78-79 tower should be. The older coils were a bit longer than ttb stuff, but as I recall with added hieight you get from 78-79 it also had to do with where the coil was mounted at the bottom vs. ttb.

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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-08-2013, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Also finished putting together the dana internals. took me about 7 times to arrive at where i did, here are my patterns at three spots around the gear, im thinking it looks alright, first one ive ever done myself. got a carrier with a lock-rite already put together from my bros jeep, threw that in, im running 4.56 gears, used all my old outer hub parts mixed from the 78 and the ttb. i have the tie rod/ drag link from the old 78 which im hoping i can use for the sas and then ungrade to some new merch in a few years









after countless hours of searching! ive decided id like to move the coils foward. my question is how much? depending on what the frame looks like behind the ttb bucket im thinking 1.5" foward is solid figure. this would help with my tracbar/crossmember issues and my rear radius arm frame mounts. thoughts?

driveshaft: i was planning on using my stock driveshaft, but with axle relocation and increased lift hieght ive been thinking it might not work out. thoughts?

im hoping to mount the upper coil bracket high on the frame because im running the 78 6" deaver superflex and want to minimize the lift hieght to around 6" inches. talking about the difference in hieght of the 78 and ttb upper coil buckets, im hoping that by mounting the coil higher i can keep my lift hieght to a reasonable ammount. thoughts?

im visioning a rear radius arm mount that stretches from frame to frame and holds both hiem joints, tried to search for some ideas but haven't found much on that. thoughts?

pittman arm concerns: currently i have a dropped pittman arm on my BKO that i put on with a 4" stage 2 BDS lift. i think that should be enough to help with my drag link angles. thoughts?


this week im going to get some radius arm caps and bushings, get my coils and arms bolted on the axle and roll that bad motha under the BKO!!! thanks for the input guys and keep it comin!
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Been a really long time since I posted, never too late for some pics!!

Heres the bko as she sits today;







a lot of this and not a lot of wrenching! but im getting there, any comments appreciated thx guys
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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-26-2014, 11:13 AM
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might be a tad late but that gear pattern looks a bit shallow. Otherwise the overall location looks good.

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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-26-2014, 12:51 PM
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i second that pattern look to shallow to me too
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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-02-2014, 11:06 AM
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is the curve in the springs normal? and what radius arms are you using?

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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-07-2014, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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is the curve in the springs normal? and what radius arms are you using?
I hope not, i'm using jamesduff arms, I found a few people with similar setups who used "shims" to help correct the spring bow, I'm still hoping to use the stock upper coil mount but I'm not sure if its going to work out, i'm using what I believe to be a 1978 Dana 44 high pinion axle with Dana 60 wedges. been hung up on the radius arm frame mounts , trying to find sweepspot

ty all
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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-07-2014, 06:24 AM
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where can I get these shims or do we have to make them?

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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-07-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cjwchoppers View Post
is the curve in the springs normal? and what radius arms are you using?
It's typical to have some bowing if using stock lower spring cups, especially with longer/softer rate coils. It used to be that we made the wedges, I then welded mine on the bottom of the cups. I think use of the aftermarket lower cups makes this less likely, and one of the vendors must make these wedges these days.

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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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So after having my life flash before my eyes this afternoon I have one question:

Will the BKO stand on the tires without a trac bar, shocks, or sway bars???

I thought this answer was yes. I got the rear radius arm mounts bolted on, only using two bolts right now until im sure of my placement, the one lower and one side. With the use of many jack stands, blocks, and a variety of hydraulic jacks I manage to get one tire on. When I attempted to put the other one on I QUICKLY realized this thing was about to buckle to one side. My axle is sitting 3-6 inches out of center towards the pass side(mounted tire on this side). The BKO is about to fall over towards the drivers side, the springs look like the upper retained might rip off or the entire spring might just fold.

So ive researched many threads and write-ups but obviously don't understand the order in which this SAS is supposed to happen. My plan moving forward is to hopefully use a bobcat I have access to to lift the front and move the axle better into place, put the other tire on then dive in to the trac bar mount.

Any comments are appreciated ty all!
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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 10:48 PM
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do you have any pics of what your talking about....

remember its your ride build it your way not there way.
but build it dont buy it
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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 01:53 AM
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Used a couple ratchet straps and bring it back to the center, do one from each side.


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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 11-09-2014, 10:49 AM
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Used a couple ratchet straps and bring it back to the center, do one from each side.


What he said.

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