IIVIIoonshiner's Low Lift SAS - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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First thanks for the kind words

Second, Yeah I'm thinking that once 1000lbs is on it that the angle will improve
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post #22 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 10:46 PM
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Very nice - I'm thinking of doing similar work on my Bronco. SAS and keeping it low - I might not entirely cut out that x-member, but I think most of it can go away and get braced.

74' Bronco - EFI 5.8/NP435/AtlasII - 5.5" lift - 4340 D60 - PSC Full Hydro - Cage arms - D70U Powr-Lok & Disks - 43" TSX SX on H1 beadlocks
74' Bronco - EFI 5.8/ZF5/NP205 - 450HP + Spray - Tru-Track D44/Nodular trac-lok 9"
95' F-150 - 5.0/4R70W/BW1356 - 4.56 gears - D50 powr-lok - 8.8 trac-lok
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post #23 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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trackbar bracket

This is the base bracket for my trackbar mount. It started life as an inside the frame trackbar bracket from Ruffstufspecialties. Mine was entirely too close to my steeringbox though so changes had to be made.

This is how it looked held up in place after "fitting"

My welding upside down while laying with my ribs tweaked to the side and neck crooked leaves a little to be desired... but they are strong and pretty fair to have come from a foresters hand

The trackbar still wraps up close to the steering box itself
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post #24 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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trackbar bracket bracing

I am an over-builder when I can be, so I knew I wouldn't just weld a bracket on and feel rosey about it. So I built a brace to give myself more welded area and also help support this section of frame a bit more (steering box yadayada)
This is 3/16" 2"x3"

mocked in place

Here she is in all her humble glory lol

and the other side... did I mention that some of the angles on these welds were..... a pain?

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post #25 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleQ View Post
Very nice - I'm thinking of doing similar work on my Bronco. SAS and keeping it low - I might not entirely cut out that x-member, but I think most of it can go away and get braced.
sounds good! I toyed with the idea of keeping more of it. I would be interested to see a buildup when you decide to start.

You are right about some of it being removable. I was always told build the strongest thing that will fit in the space

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post #26 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-11-2015, 12:50 PM
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Looks good, I'm in the same boat on my 1990 centurion. Swapping to radius arms and coil overs, with minimal lift. I have it to the point right now to where I can actually lower it over stock by about 2 inches with the mods I have done. I kept the original engine cross member, but it has been trimmed to clear the track bar (I'm adding an HSS cross member just like you as well), the front axle is a dana 60 and I have cross over steering, but i had to swap the drag link to under the steering arm to gain frame clearance. Track bar mount, well I started with the same ruff stuff bracket as you are using, but because I wanted to match the angles exactly with the drag link (the drag link is not parallel with the axle because of the forward position of the steering box), I ended up tossing it and building my own (see attached pictures).

Hope this helps.
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post #27 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mustange70 View Post
Looks good, I'm in the same boat on my 1990 centurion. Swapping to radius arms and coil overs, with minimal lift. I have it to the point right now to where I can actually lower it over stock by about 2 inches with the mods I have done. I kept the original engine cross member, but it has been trimmed to clear the track bar (I'm adding an HSS cross member just like you as well), the front axle is a dana 60 and I have cross over steering, but i had to swap the drag link to under the steering arm to gain frame clearance. Track bar mount, well I started with the same ruff stuff bracket as you are using, but because I wanted to match the angles exactly with the drag link (the drag link is not parallel with the axle because of the forward position of the steering box), I ended up tossing it and building my own (see attached pictures).

Hope this helps.
nice tbb and thanks for the input! It's working out well now that I commited to under the knuckle steering
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post #28 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-12-2015, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Utk steering components in. New updates soon
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post #29 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-14-2015, 07:01 AM
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why can't you turn lock to lock?what is getting in the way?
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post #30 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-15-2015, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IIVIIoonshiner View Post
sounds good! I toyed with the idea of keeping more of it. I would be interested to see a buildup when you decide to start.

You are right about some of it being removable. I was always told build the strongest thing that will fit in the space
Yeah - I'll see what I can do. I picked up my 1/3rd of a Bronco last weekend. I got everything attached to the frame up to the trans x-member. It just happens to be a 3.50 gear with limited slip with a factory sway bar and dual shock axle. Good score for sure-

I'd like to keep the lift around 2-3" but if it is a PITA I'll just go with the 4" and be done with it. It looks like I can use the steering off that with a F350 drag link. Keep up the good work!

74' Bronco - EFI 5.8/NP435/AtlasII - 5.5" lift - 4340 D60 - PSC Full Hydro - Cage arms - D70U Powr-Lok & Disks - 43" TSX SX on H1 beadlocks
74' Bronco - EFI 5.8/ZF5/NP205 - 450HP + Spray - Tru-Track D44/Nodular trac-lok 9"
95' F-150 - 5.0/4R70W/BW1356 - 4.56 gears - D50 powr-lok - 8.8 trac-lok
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post #31 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-17-2015, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Deathmobile2 the tierod (when over the knuckle) was hitting the trackbar and preventing full lock turning towards passenger side

Putting the steering under the knuckle (utk) solved the problem

I should have a big update this weekend so wish me luck
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post #32 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-18-2015, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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trackbar fix

I thought I was being slick when I ordered an adjustable trackbar from Jeff'sBroncoGraveyard and If it was going on a 78 it would have been perfect. But it was 3.5" too long for my application so it needed modified.
First I cut out 3.5" in the middle of it and drilled 4 holes on each side for plug welds

Next I had a friend sell me a piece of 1 1/4" od .25 wall tubing for 5 bucks (12" long)

Beat halfway in and begin welding plug welds

Next beat the other side in (it was so tight that I had to chill the first piece in the freezer to get it to slide) then plug weld all holes (8total) and then take grinder to joint and make sure there is room for your weld. Butt weld and grind smooth for aesthetics

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post #33 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-18-2015, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Exciting Progress

Next I finished drilling holes in the frame for the bolts in the radius arm mounts (4 on each side) since I only had half of them done. I also drilled holes and installed the f350 shock towers.

Next I installed the freshly painted trackbar and (almost anti-climactically) it was time to put the wheels on and set her down on her own weight.


Here she is...



I'm very pleased with how it's turning out so far. I love the stance which means my coil springs are probably not tall enough (after all I will be adding roughly 1000lbs in front of the firewall)

After I start installing the motor, bumper and winch I will know a lot more about what shocks I will need and if I have to get taller springs

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post #34 of 179 (permalink) Old 04-22-2015, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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I got my 4bt pulled out of the bread truck today



Whew long day

Stay tuned for slow steady progress
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post #35 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Cradle Fabrication

One cannot just blink a motor into place so recently I have been working on my motor cradle/mounts. I'm using the rest of that 3/16" 2x3" tubing for the majority of the crossmember. I started by making a motor mount piece for each side and a kick down. here are some pictures




Next (and I know I didn't take enough pictures) I bolted one to each side of the motor and built the bottom part of the cradle (tying both sides together)
You will notice that the passenger side is squared off but that I took extra time with a bandsaw and heavy duty plate to clearance the Driver side

Just for fun I set the cradle down deep inside the frame rails centered in the engine bay (this is not where it will ride). This is how the clearance angle aligns with the pumpkin. Time will tell if I can make it all fit in this tight spot with enough clearance.

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post #36 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 10:24 PM
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Cool

So.....question.....will that cradle go across from left to right frame rail and add stability to the frame?....or does it sit on top?....
great build brotha!!! keep up with pictures!!!

I wrench on it because I have to....
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post #37 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Damn I'm happy to get a question!!! Kinda seems like I'm documenting for no reason (or doing a good job) because I haven't had much in the way of criticism so far lol

To answer the question posed... It will tie both frame sides together and take the place of the stock ttb crossmember. I'm tweaking some sharp corners and the bottom tube so that it matches the angle of the oil pan. New pictures soon
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post #38 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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More crossmember work

So after test fitting my new crossmember I decided I wanted to clearance the inside of the cradle for any twisting that this ginormous torque motor makes. Here are some pictures of the new lay out. I could've gotten away without this if I had not been trying to keep things as high up as possible. (Also if you weren't worried about strength this crossmember could be made thinner to help with axle clearance, but I may upgrade this motor some and wasn't willing to sacrifice the strength)






I am very pleased with the final tolerances and feel like any shake this motor can make should be fine

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post #39 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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First motor stab

Next it was time for the first motor stab. After fooling around a bit and realizing that both transmission and motor had alignment dowels (lol I removed the transmission one and voila) she fit nicely. This motor is soooo heavy! But really not that big. There is copious amounts of room at the front of the bay

That being said to install a 6BT I imagine you'd have to take the radiator and core support out.




I think she fits in there nicely!

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post #40 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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So after I got the motor bolted down with 3 bolts to the transmission (no clutch mind you just the stock 4BT flywheel) I pushed the clutch in the truck and heard a loud pop. Then hydraulic type fluid leaked from bottom of the transmission bellhousing. Anyone have any ideas on what happened? Slave cylinder?

I'm not sure why I pushed the clutch pedal anyhow because the clutch wasn't even installed

any insight into potential fixes and or what the problem was?

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