IIVIIoonshiner's Low Lift SAS - Page 3 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #41 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-21-2015, 07:52 PM
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Love the build. Sure makes me want a Cummins. Looks like you have a ton of room under the hood. Sounds like you maybe pushed the slave cylinder apart with nothing to stop it, sort of like a wheel cylinder if you don't have the brake drums on a rear axle?? I really like want you did with the front crossmember, getting rid of the big OEM TTB piece. Almost looks like it could use a little re-inforcement where the piece tie together under the oil pan. I know you don't have much room but just lools like it needs something. Can't wait to see it come to life.
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post #42 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 12:05 PM
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This is a fantastic build! I can't wait to see the finished project. I know you said that you were hoping for a low lift or stock height? What's your overall ride height goal with this once it's done?
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post #43 of 179 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the kind words! I cannot answer as to exact height but as low as I'm able. Right now it still looks good with stock sized tires. However, I'm not coal rolling just yet and the height may have to be adjusted to keep crossmember and axle from contacting

Wish me luck right?
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post #44 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 03:49 AM
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How much gap is currently between the top of tire and bottom of the fender? On my centurion I started with 190mm and I'm at 230mmish now (this is with 35's on a 1 tn chassis) after a radius arm/coilover swap with 6" of uptravel.
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post #45 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-14-2015, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mustange70 View Post
How much gap is currently between the top of tire and bottom of the fender? On my centurion I started with 190mm and I'm at 230mmish now (this is with 35's on a 1 tn chassis) after a radius arm/coilover swap with 6" of uptravel.
I'm more than happy to take these measurements if you want but it will change shortly because I'm about to add the weight of the motor to the front end. Do you want engineless measurements?
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post #46 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 09:32 AM
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On the clutch issue, its more than likely a blown apart slave cylinder. They are cheap, and if you currently don't have a clutch, I'd recommend putting in a new one when you put in the clutch. Even if it was new, since its been pushed apart, i'd just replace it for peace of mind.

Friends don't let friends install TTB lifts.
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post #47 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gijoe4500 View Post
On the clutch issue, its more than likely a blown apart slave cylinder. They are cheap, and if you currently don't have a clutch, I'd recommend putting in a new one when you put in the clutch. Even if it was new, since its been pushed apart, i'd just replace it for peace of mind.
Yeah brother you are right in that diagnosis. Thanks!

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post #48 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-16-2015, 06:02 PM
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Once you get the engine in if you could, Its nice to be able to compare heights between trucks.

Thanks.
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post #49 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-21-2015, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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engine cradle tacked in

As you know it is often difficult to find the required time to get shop time in (especially with a wife and kids and a fulltime job) so I apologize for the delay. I was able to get a little work done last night.

First I balanced rotated and lifted the motor to exactly where it needs to be. (I could have gone a bit higher but my engine is already at 6-7* tilted and any higher would introduce hood clearance issues) So once the motor was where I wanted it I used some scrap to tack the engine cradle in place just enough to yank the motor

There will be a lot of follow up information coming to yall as I tie this cradle in to the frame!!!! Very fun stuff if I say so myself

After yanking the motor out I pulled the timing gear cover off to inspect the front of the motor and fix the infamous Killer Dowel Pin
To my delight the motors insides look pretty!!!

I used a bit of metal to make the killer dowel pin bracket (if you are unfamiliar with Cummins this is to keep a dowel pin from rattling out and destroying the motor

Once I was done I bent and installed on this bolt to keep the Dowel Pin in. Here is a picture that shows what I was building

you can just see the dowel pin hole now

Stay tuned as I slowly plod along!

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post #50 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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not the best pictures but this will let you see the progress I made in the last hour of shop time. This piece looks easy but MY HEAVENS at the angles. Good Grief


I welded the nut behind this support to the frame for future coil bucket removal
Also once I finish weld these pieces I will cut the top of the cradle flush with the top of the frame and add a very substantial top plate to tie it in along a third plane.

More to come

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Last edited by IIVIIoonshiner; 07-27-2015 at 08:53 PM. Reason: bad picture
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post #51 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 11:32 AM
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Word of advice, I'd get in there now and clean/buff everything to shiny metal before everything is fit into place making it impossible to clean to sound metal prior to welding. I got in this habit while working on the centurion, its time consuming and dirty, but makes for much, much better welding.

Looks good.
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post #52 of 179 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Things I forget about when I'm drinking lol. I'll lop those two tacks off and prep the frame for sure
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post #53 of 179 (permalink) Old 08-04-2015, 04:33 PM
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I just stumbled on to this thread. Great work. I'm sub'd now.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #54 of 179 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Cradle to Frame Part 1

Hello boys and girls

I had a good morning fabricating and while I didn't finish I thought I'd share my progress.

I started by welding any nuts that were going to be hidden by the croosmember tightly to the frame. Then I started fabricating the driverside cradle to frame tie in. All of these were evenly jointed and then stitch welded. Once the stitch welds cooled I burned them in at full heat. The results are large strong weld points

I apologize for the camera phone pictures. As you may notice I also cleaned up all of my old crossmember cuts and re-welded any open seams

some of these welds ended up ugly when there was very little room for my gun to work. I am not worried about these because the mounts will have essentially three levels of shear when I am done.

I used a level to run a line along the cradle parallel with the top of the frame and cut everything above the line, on both sides, off with an abrasive cutoff disc.

This is where I had to stop for the day because I have a large fundraiser at work this evening. But the next picture will give you a general idea of the top plating that will follow. These plates will be cut and angled nicely to tie the crossmember into the top portion of the frame on both sides. There will not be any sharp angles sticking out (these are rough cut for length and just laid in place)

After I shear the corners off of them they will look like they flare evenly to the top of the engine cradle

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post #55 of 179 (permalink) Old 08-20-2015, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Top Plates of Engine Crossmember

I am done with frame fabrication for the motor swap. The top plates are welded in and the next step is to prep all visible sections of the frame for paint. Here are some pictures so y'all can ogle my handiwork and tease me if need be




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post #56 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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prepwork and paint

prepwork always goes soooo slowly

so after hours of cleaning sanding and prepping frame and crossmembers I was able to prime and paint them. (I am not painting the entire frame but hopefully will when I replace body mounts later on)

Heres a pic that essentially shows nothing lol black paint is hard to appreciate in a picture.

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post #57 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 11:04 AM
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Is there a way for water to get out of that crossmember? Or will it be sealed when the mounts are in? Even if it's sealed, I would pour a little oil in there to slosh around. Slows the rust worms down.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #58 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmmm a good thought and one I hadn't considered. I will address it, thanks!
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post #59 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-09-2015, 12:41 AM
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man great build, good pics, and great documenting on what your doing looking forward to when this build is down and the finish pics come up!
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post #60 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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sound deadener

I did a little digging and found a nice product that is very much like dynamat but less expensive (like 16 bucks for 12.5 sq ft cheap)

I started cutting and sticking (carefully because this stuff sticks realllly tight) and eventually I had two layers. The stuff is highly rated for automotive use and I'm hoping that heat wrapping my exhaust will be enough to avoid excessive heat on this stuff. It is incredibly stuck and reflects a lot of heat by being an aluminum product so I'm not overly worried. Anyways here's what my firewall looks like now


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