IIVIIoonshiner's Low Lift SAS - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by hornythrony View Post
man great build, good pics, and great documenting on what your doing looking forward to when this build is down and the finish pics come up!
thank you very much! I'm excited to drive it again honestly

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post #62 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 07:32 AM
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Nice job That looks like a tedious and time comsuming task. Seems like it should help alot!!
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post #63 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 05:05 PM
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That's awesome! I really hope it works out for you! I've heard about people installing that under their hood though and it started to peel off when it got hot. I'm not saying that it'll happen (and I hope it doesn't) I'm just curious to see how it holds up.

1991 XLT 302 E4OD 189,XXX miles.

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post #64 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh that sounds miserable so I'm hoping not. If it comes off I'll have to yank the motor again! Lol time will tell
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post #65 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-15-2015, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Now you have me wondering if I should invest in another layer like this.... https://www.designengineering.com/ca...r/reflect-gold

Or wait and see... Or take it off ahead of time... Oh how I don't want to get this crazy sticky stuff off lol

Anyone weigh in?
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post #66 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 09:29 AM
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I have used both of those products. The peel and seal is good stuff, for a roof. Not saying it won't hold up under the hood. I think it may do well. But It will be a bitch if you have to remove it after it cooks on. The glue on it kind of "activates" with heat.

The heat tape by DEI is good stuff also. I used the silver many years ago (10-11) to insulate my "cold air" intake. It's still there, but it doesn't look as nice. It kind of loses the silver on the edges and looks like old duct tape. I don't think I would try to cover the firewall with it unless you could get it in wide strips. The two inch would give too many edges to ware.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #67 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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I would only use it if it were over top of the aluminum

In an attempt to keep the aluminum product from coming off... You're thinking that it would peel off even if protected by the DEI huh?

Not a fun diagnosis /-:
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post #68 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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I have a pretty good go forth plan in place to protect from heat. I will show yall as I go. I think I can get pretty good results

Wish me luck
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post #69 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-16-2015, 07:50 PM
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Sorry to make you doubt yourself man. One thing I've seen people do is find the sound insulator blanket from a power stoke truck. That's supposedly a good solution. They can be speedy though if you do find a new one. However it was designed to fit in your engine bay.
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post #70 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-25-2015, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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To peel or not to peel

so as some of my fsb bretheren have pointed out engine/exhaust heat could be pretty damaging to my peel and stick. When I did my research I only thought about the greenhouse effect in a car (how hot they get parked in the sun) and found that in a 100 degree day that temps could reach 130-160 degrees F inside a car (things like window tint and air flow from cracked windows helps a bit but not a crazy lot). I also read a bunch of reviews from folks using the peel and stick product for cars (some of which sat in the summer sun in car shows) and no complaints. I HADN''T considered radiant temperature from the motor.... DOH!!! So I called the company and the Peel and Stick has been tested to 180*F and 120 mph winds with no negative effects. This is good news because it means I don't have to worry about the sun or greenhouse effect causing it to unstick.

WHICH brings me to a decision on what to do. there are multiple options but this is what I am choosing to do. Time will tell if I've misfigured and if so I will have to yank stuff to fix it. I contacted the engineers at DesignEngineeringIInc (DEI) and they said that their Floor and Tunnel Shield II was the perfect solution and would cover up the peel and stick perfectly. (hope they are right)
So I ordered enough for the firewall and while I was at it I ordered titanium exhaust wrap to wrap my upper exhaust tube for about 3 feet to get some of the excess heat out of the compartment.

This product is pretty amazing and should keep any significant engine heat from affecting the firewall. I will post pictures once I am done.

I went to the shop last night and put two new 1330 u joints in my front driveshaft and re-installed it with the TTB yoke on the back of the 78 solid dana 44. Driveshaft looks perfect and was easy.

While I was there I removed my radiator and air conditioner core. it looks really wild to see the firewall and transmission while standing in front of the truck.

I intend to address any surface rust starting on my core support before I install anything else. There isn't anything bad but some light work will save me headaches later.

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post #71 of 179 (permalink) Old 09-26-2015, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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DEI tunnel shield installed

Well short evening in the shop because I spend entirely too much time interested in college football. But I completely covered the firewall with the new DEI Tunnel shield product. Very substantial product with a thick waffled/dimpled aluminum exterior and a fiberglass fiber middle. Sticks well and easy to work with. If this pet project doesn't work I may cry for the first time since my grandpa passed when I was 13....
That was no exaggeration.. the first product I used is so incredibly stuck that the limited area I tried to remove was near impossible to get off.... no brainer to cover instead of remove. Anyways here are pics


looks pretty!

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post #72 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Motor is in!

Well sorry for the delays... work and family have me busy!

The motor is bolted into both crossmember and transmission. I had to wait until now to see where ride height was. So here are some pictures of it as she sits now on her own weight



these next two pictures show my clearances on the frame and firewall (hard to see but everything is going to comfortably clear!!!! this essentially means that nothing hard to fabricate remains. (weight lifted)



So the only worry I have is the 2.5" clearance between my low profile crossmember and the pumpkin. Easily fixable by lifting the truck a couple inches which may be the easiest answer (and allow slightly larger tire size) The pictures you see are stock sized tires (small)

feel free to weigh in as I brainstorm

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post #73 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 02:37 AM
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How much was your 4bt?
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post #74 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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How much was your 4bt?
I bought a bread truck with a solid 4BT in it and a t19 tranny (so I'd get the right adapter) 2k for the truck

Once I pulled the motor I now use the truck as a storage building (portable, aluminum, lockable and inexpensive)
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post #75 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 06:57 PM
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How does the angle of your radius arms, at the brackets, look now that you have weight on the suspension?
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post #76 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 02:50 AM
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You got lucky on that bread truck,The ones i can find are 2500 and it did run years ago line lol.Keep up the work id love to see it finished.
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post #77 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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since you asked

Quote:
Originally Posted by Getting There View Post
How does the angle of your radius arms, at the brackets, look now that you have weight on the suspension?


It's perfect right now i think.... but I'm planning on switching to 4" lift springs in place of the 1-2" ones though so its going to shift some.

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post #78 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 09:15 PM
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Yes, it does look perfect. You still have quite a few engine and cooling parts to install, correct? Hopefully another two inches of lift won't affect the angle too much. The project is looking great. I would love to do one of these conversions someday.
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post #79 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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New Coil Springs are perfect!

So I am selling the 1-2 inch springs I had (1978) and I've replaced them with some 4-4.5" versions from JBG (1978)

I really love the stance (and yes I will need to run bigger than stock tires (stock size shown) it's pretty modest in the lift department which was my goal! I'm hoping 33's will fill it out nicely!
here are pictures of it on it's own weight (minus bumper and winch)



and this picture shows you that I have enough clearance inbetween my custom crossmember and axle now!

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post #80 of 179 (permalink) Old 12-30-2015, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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clocked my BW1356 Transfercase

I had to do some major shoe horning to get that motor in (clearances are tight!) and since I had pulled the transfercase I made some upgrades. I used a DIY4X clocking ring and moved it up one hole

which as you can see in this picture made it almost completely flat
I am loving the angle!

I used a 2 lb sledge to clearance the floor just a bit so that the motor loading and unloading won't cause the case to hit the floor

If you have a keen eye you will also notice that since the fill holes don't work very well, I added a sight tube so that I could keep track of fluid level. Relatively easy to do with a 1/8" npt tap and some fittings. I will separate and fill at the correct angle then lift it up and stab it. I plan to mark on the sight tube the appropriate fill line in magic marker

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