IIVIIoonshiner's Low Lift SAS - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 177 (permalink) Old 02-28-2015, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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IIVIIoonshiner's Low Lift SAS

Welcome! thank you for taking the time to join me on my low lift sas journey. I have been casually planning this for many years.

Need to know:
Axle: 78 bronco Dana 44 chromo shafts, Tbird calipers, Lockrite, New everything, 78 radius arms
Truck: stock 94 with zf5 Tranny and 3.55 rear gears (no motor in truck because Cummins 4BT is next

I am trying to avoid as much height as possible since this is my daily driver truck and I prefer milder lifts as I get older

First step I had to do was build a crossmember behind the radiator using 3/16" 2"x3" rectangular tubing. This was to hold frame in place when I cut out the poorly engineered bastard of a TTB crossmember.



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post #2 of 177 (permalink) Old 02-28-2015, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Removing the Bastard

Next was the simple and straightforward (if not tedious) job of removing all things TTB... unlike most who unbolt it. I cut out the entire crossmember and will be putting in a custom drop in crossmember with 4BT motor mounts built in (more on that after I finish this)

I removed the TTB and Coil buckets (removed after photos) and front skid plate


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post #3 of 177 (permalink) Old 02-28-2015, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Tierod and Mockup

Before I could slide the 78 axle in I needed to at least build a tierod. I am using the 1-ton chevy TRE ylink kit from Ruffstuffspecialties. I will show the draglink later because I haven't built it yet.
This photo is pre-welding when I was checking to make triple sure


Roughly put in place... sits a bit towards driver side right now but I will move it over before we get too serious.

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post #4 of 177 (permalink) Old 02-28-2015, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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First problem! Radius Arm Mounts

I ran into my first hiccup today. I was lead to believe that my stock 94 Radius Arm Brackets would work and alas I was mislead. After following this diagram
(very helpful) the Radius Arms seemed to mount perfectly in the brackets

OOOOOH PRETTY!

However my excitement was short lived because due to the 78 radius arms being significantly longer than the 94 ones, AND the fact that the truck frame flares wider as it moves rearward... the radius arm brackets are too narrow to fit on the frame.

Does anyone know how different 78 radius arm brackets are? will it be easiest to look for a pair of those? or should I fabricate custom ones (much more work)?????

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post #5 of 177 (permalink) Old 02-28-2015, 06:19 PM
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Your jack setup is VERY unsafe!!! Do not lay under that thing for another second! Those cinder blocks are not designed to take weight the way you have them on their side. They are not structural in that position and can easily crack and crumble apart. If you must use cinder blocks you need to have them right side up as they would be used in a structural building. Further more, you should not have the jacks sitting directly on top of the blocks as the sharp edges of the jack will put stress points into the cinder blocks causing eventual failure. Use a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood between the block and the jack. Seriously! This is VERY UNSAFE!!!

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post #6 of 177 (permalink) Old 02-28-2015, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the safety advice! I will make those changes before I continue.

Safety first (;

I have the truck supported under the tranny crossmember as a backup and there's no motor weight
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post #7 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 02:57 AM
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Looking great so far Check out this thread as it has the answers you are looking for on your radius arm brackets. He used the 78-79 brackets. Picture of it about halfway down the first page. I attached the link to a picture, but not sure if that will work correctly. Good luck with the project and can't wait to see the 4BT conversion as well.

D44, coil sas for me.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...psf5af9c44.jpg
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post #8 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 01:43 PM
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I will be following this close.
Please take lots of photos of engine cross member clearance.
What are your plans for the engine cross member?
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post #9 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Those brackets are what he must have meant

I will pick up a pair of 78-ish era stock brackets!!!! THANKS!

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post #10 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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VIN I will

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinmicmor View Post
I will be following this close.
Please take lots of photos of engine cross member clearance.
What are your plans for the engine cross member?
I am skimming past a lot of tech that many many others have done on here but I promise to document the unique parts well.

I have a design in my head that I think will work very well. The plan will be for motor mounts to be integrated in crossmember and for the entire thing to be removable.

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post #11 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 01:53 PM
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Good deal. I am interested in leaving it in there but figuring out the best way to hack it up if I have to. Thanks!
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post #12 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 03:20 PM
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After swapping my 460 and zf I found out that the threads on the oil pan drain are cracked. I don't want to remove my motor or have it be a PITA to replace so I plan to delete my engine cross member after I replace the others with a removable piece with a couple of bolts on either side.

UNION PRIDE
MY STUPIDMOTORS
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post #13 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-01-2015, 07:30 PM
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^^^^Dude. That sucks big time.
Ya'll got me wondering if i should explore this route. I like designing stuff with future maintenance in mind.
I am a at pretty crucial point to make these decisions. Whole front clip is off and motor is out.
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post #14 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Safety First

I take my fellow FSB members advice to heart so first things first...I fixed my setup by rearranging the Cinder blocks, adding Plywood and a RAILROAD jack that I use to lift house corners.... I Don't want folks fretting over me afterall

Next I thought I should show everyone how much of my stock crossmemberis left for overall vision reasons


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post #15 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Coil Bucket insall the hard way

This is not the absolute easiest way to do this... BUT I wanted the coil buckets where I wanted them so this is how I went about it.
In the first picture you can see the 4 equidistant square holes and will notice that the bottom front (left) is quite shiny

The reason is that it hits on part of the crossmember

To do this I used an acetylene torch a drill and a carbide burr

Once I opened the space up I could fit a nut with room to spare

Here is a photo of the same area once three of 4 face bolts (g8) are installed

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post #16 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-14-2015, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Fourt Bolt installtion of Driver Coil Buket

The upper Front coil bucket bolt took a bit of interesting thinking as well.
olding the nut required me to cut and reweld an old 3/4" box end wrench

Once it cooled It was perfect to help hold the nut and tighten the fourth bolt

Here is a finished picture of the driver side coil bucket and how it is positioned in wheelwell. I am excluding pictures of the passenger side and bottom of rails because most folks should be adept at measuring and drilling holes (passenger side is a breeze)


More to come after the Radius Arm Mounts from the 78 get here this week

Thanks for looking

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post #17 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-20-2015, 12:08 AM
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Dude...
Wheres your cross member?

Ahahaha. Looks good!
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post #18 of 177 (permalink) Old 03-20-2015, 11:50 AM
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post #19 of 177 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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two steps forward one step back

Well I worked most of good Friday but got off early and thought I'd hang my front axle. Mostly productive.

I started by hanging the axle by the coil springs (1 - 2" leveling springs from JBG... yeah I'm pretty hopeful.. let me burst my own bubble if they aren't tall enough)


I picked up a pair of 78 bronco radius arm mounts thanks to y'all's wonderful input! They work very well but if I was jacking it up substantially I'd make my own that sat at a better angle.

I measured every way possible to keep the axle centered and after I got it where I wanted it looked like this! I'm pleased


I just hit my second road bump. I intended to do my steering "over the knuckle" to improve clearance... but sadly I don't think this will work. If I do, then I cannot turn full lock to the passenger side. My answer is probably to buy a new passenger side chevy TRE that is reamed to be "under the knuckle"

Sad but once again I am stuck waiting for parts. As soon as I get the steering fixed I will fabricate a trackbar bracket and see how she sits on her own weight...

Stay tuned

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post #20 of 177 (permalink) Old 04-04-2015, 07:20 AM
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It is looking great. Keep up the good work and sorry to hear about the road bumps. As far as wanting a better angle on the radius arm brackets, you could always do a little surgery on them. A couple of pie cuts, a little bending and then weld them back up at the angle you want. I would not cut all the way across the bracket, but just enough to get the angle you want, if that makes sense. I have seen people just heat them up and bend them back a bit, but that may be a little too redneck Your angle will probably be good once you put weight on the suspension.
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