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post #41 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldrojo View Post
More Pics......but I need to see your track bar length and type and how you fixed it to the axle. Did you use the exsisting track bar mount on the axle? need a pic.....PLEASE.....
Did you not look at my pictures? What you are asking for is already there.



Its not fully adjusted yet. I still have to do that, but it is close enough.

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post #42 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 08:53 PM
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Nice, wish I had the funds to to the same swap. I am starting with all the stuff that does not work first then working my way out. I would like to do a 9" front high pinion eventually.
BTW how does the track bar and pumpkin clear the crossmember? On the 4 links I have done I used a Offset shaped bar. It looks tight in there is all, I did a Bronco II many years ago and had to cut the crossmember out to clear everything.
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post #43 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 445 FE Bronco View Post
Nice, wish I had the funds to to the same swap. I am starting with all the stuff that does not work first then working my way out. I would like to do a 9" front high pinion eventually.
BTW how does the track bar and pumpkin clear the crossmember? On the 4 links I have done I used a Offset shaped bar. It looks tight in there is all, I did a Bronco II many years ago and had to cut the crossmember out to clear everything.
It all seems to clear perfectly. I'll need to flex it out when I get a chance to double check, but I don't think I'll even have to trim the crossmember.

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post #44 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by gijoe4500 View Post
Did you not look at my pictures? What you are asking for is already there.



Its not fully adjusted yet. I still have to do that, but it is close enough.
Yeah so it looks like you used the factory stock bolt position and bolt at the axle, but a straight track bar. OK

I wrench on it because I have to....
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post #45 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by oldrojo View Post
Yeah so it looks like you used the factory stock bolt position and bolt at the axle, but a straight track bar. OK
its the wildhorses 4x4 adjustable track bar

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post #46 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 11:58 AM
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Any idea what kind of articulation numbers you are projecting? Are you going to use a front sway bar and disconnect ?
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post #47 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Any idea what kind of articulation numbers you are projecting? Are you going to use a front sway bar and disconnect ?
I have no clue what my travel numbers are going to be. Not overly concerned, because without changing coil springs out, it isn't going to change. Also, no sway bar. Don't need one, this truck will get trailered everywhere it goes.

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post #48 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 02:11 PM
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Just wondering, coils will droop pretty good if you get thinner wire diameters plus the weight of big tires and heavy steel wheels tend to make the axle drop more. I would do some 16 or 17" long travel shocks and see what happens, why not can't hurt as long as you don't drop a coil our of the bucket.
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post #49 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 445 FE Bronco View Post
Just wondering, coils will droop pretty good if you get thinner wire diameters plus the weight of big tires and heavy steel wheels tend to make the axle drop more. I would do some 16 or 17" long travel shocks and see what happens, why not can't hurt as long as you don't drop a coil our of the bucket.
Have you ever deal with 16" stocks? They are absolutely massive. I have a set in the garage, and I'm not entirely sure I can package them under the truck. Also, 16" travel at the shock is more than most people will ever need. I have 16" travel coilovers on my main crawler, and I kinda wish I had stuck with 14s for the front on it.

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post #50 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 06:44 PM
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I have run 14" shocks on my Jeep CJ, they were certainly excessive. I was running mono leaf glass springs and long shackles but never ran out of shock. When I do my Bronco FS I will more than likely do just coils and single shock, over coil over. If I did do a crawler only I would go three link front with coil over and four link rear with coil over. I ran 14" coil overs in my drag car and they were tall, extending into the trunk.
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post #51 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 07:54 PM
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Have you checked the track bar clearance at the cross member under compression? Looks like it will hit when compressed.

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post #52 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Have you checked the track bar clearance at the cross member under compression? Looks like it will hit when compressed.
Not yet. But from what I vaguely remember from the install, i don't remember any concern of it hitting. If it does rub, I'll just trim the crossmember. That's not really a big deal to me to do.

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post #53 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 445 FE Bronco View Post
I have run 14" shocks on my Jeep CJ, they were certainly excessive. I was running mono leaf glass springs and long shackles but never ran out of shock. When I do my Bronco FS I will more than likely do just coils and single shock, over coil over. If I did do a crawler only I would go three link front with coil over and four link rear with coil over. I ran 14" coil overs in my drag car and they were tall, extending into the trunk.
He won't need 16" shocks, I have never maxed out 14's and he's running a very similar setup. Get more than you need with this for serious wheeling. I don't even use mine anymore for wheeling and like the setup onroad, though the front travel requires serious shocks to keep it in check.




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post #54 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-25-2015, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah. I'll probably run a 12" or 14" shock. Whichever packages under the truck better. I'd like 14s just so I shouldn't have to worry at all about limiting straps, but it'll all come down to whatever fits after I bolt in the F250 shock towers. Going to bolt them high on the frame, take a couple measurements, then order my Bilsteins based off of that.

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post #55 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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So, these arrived yesterday...


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post #56 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 05:59 PM
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So, these arrived yesterday...

Who's kit is that, I am going with a cable shift set up for my 205, Advance and a quite a few others have kits, just wondering why and how you decided on yours.
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post #57 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-28-2015, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Its JB Fab's kit.....

And I went with it, because JB Fab's kit is awesome.

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post #58 of 89 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Got started on the cable shifter install. Dropped the 205, and got some of the brackets bolted up. Was having difficulties reinstalling the np205 and had to step away for the day, before I ended up dropping it on my face. The doubler shifter bracket doesn't fit with my installation configuration, so I will have to redesign and build that bracket. It also look like I will have to shorten the Super Duty driveshaft about 4" to get it to bolt up.

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post #59 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 02:20 PM
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I am getting together my goodies over the next couple months, I,picked up a D60 so I am looking at doing the same set up as yours. How did you determine how to set up you steering linkage? Did you just order up a kit?
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post #60 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 04:13 PM
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I was gonna use that trac bar mount but it seemed that the angle might be off with the drag link.

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