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GIJoe's SAS

22K views 96 replies 14 participants last post by  BigBlue 94 
#1 ·
Haven't been here in a while. Most of you probably don't remember me.

But anyhow...

Looking at doing a SAS soon. Nothing fancy at all.

Parts acquired:
1996 Ford F150 single cab shortbed, 4.9L, zf5, bw1356/np205, 8.8" rear, d44ttb front 3.55 gears, 6" lift
1978 dana 44, radius arms, radius arm brackets, coil cups and coil buckets.
78-79 6" superlift coils
duff track bar bracket
wildhorse adjustable track bar
7 degree bushings
38.5" TSL SX's
Should be a quick and easy SAS to be mostly finished in 2 days. Sometime after the fact, I will do an 8-lug swap on the front. Rear needs a sterling swapped in before I build a driveshaft. Don't want to do it twice.
 
#3 ·
TTB is out. 79 coil buckets are in. Duff track bar bracket is it. Decided to order some duff arms, HD coil cups, and some 5" superflex coils. Hopefully that will all be here by thursday or friday. Then I can get the truck back on 4 wheels.
 
#7 ·
5" deaver superflex coils, James Duff radius arms, and some 4 degree radius arm bushings should be here friday, by the end of the day, according to UPS tracking numbers. Ready for the install this weekend.
 
#9 ·
Yep, now you're rolling!!!:thumbup:thumbup


I don't get out on the site much anymore, and I don't think much about the parts and pieces any longer, but it used to be that Deaver made a 4" and 6" superflex coil. The 5" coils they made had a different bottom made for the TTB, are those the ones you got?
 
#24 ·
No pictures today, but a little update. A buddy of mine may have a source for some Super Duty parts that will help me out. Dana 50 yoke to bolt onto the D44 (1350 ujoint). Super Duty front driveshaft (1350 CV). Super Duty rear driveshaft (1410 ujoints), and a Sterling rear flange (1410 ujoint).

That will give me all the parts to get a step closer.

Another buddy is supposedly going to be swapping out the rear axle under his 96 F350 soon (to change from 3.55 to 4.10s), and I'm going to help out in exchange for the 3.55 rear sterling. That will give me gears that match my front axle and I have all the parts needed to swap everything over from an old build. The NP205 already has a 1410 yoke on the back, so that will work out great.

Aside from that, I just need to source some 8 lug outers for the dana 44, clock the tcase up flat, fill everything with fluids, and bleed the clutch.

For steering, I'm just going to use stock bronco and f350 parts for now to be able to putz around. Eventually, I'll probably swap over to heims or 1ton chevy TREs. I have most of the parts for the chevy TREs already, so that is the logical choice.
 
#30 ·
Got in my new Super Duty flange for the front of the np205 from H.A.D. Will allow me to bolt up a 1350CV driveshaft from a Super Duty. Going to use a 1330/1350 conversion u-joint on the front axle end, at least until I can find a cheap 1350 pinion yoke for the d44. It looks like the stock length of the driveshaft i have will be pretty damn close, if not exact, to what I need. So that's lucky. Going to test fit today, and will snap some pics. Then the driveshaft is coming back out to be cleaned up and painted. It is looking pretty gross.
 
#34 ·
Got in my new Super Duty flange for the front of the np205 from H.A.D. Will allow me to bolt up a 1350CV driveshaft from a Super Duty. Going to use a 1330/1350 conversion u-joint on the front axle end, at least until I can find a cheap 1350 pinion yoke for the d44. It looks like the stock length of the driveshaft i have will be pretty damn close, if not exact, to what I need. So that's lucky. Going to test fit today, and will snap some pics. Then the driveshaft is coming back out to be cleaned up and painted. It is looking pretty gross.
Those aren't cheap as I recall. Think I paid $90 or so for mine.
 
#42 ·
Nice, wish I had the funds to to the same swap. I am starting with all the stuff that does not work first then working my way out. I would like to do a 9" front high pinion eventually.
BTW how does the track bar and pumpkin clear the crossmember? On the 4 links I have done I used a Offset shaped bar. It looks tight in there is all, I did a Bronco II many years ago and had to cut the crossmember out to clear everything.
 
#47 ·
I have no clue what my travel numbers are going to be. Not overly concerned, because without changing coil springs out, it isn't going to change. Also, no sway bar. Don't need one, this truck will get trailered everywhere it goes.
 
#49 ·
Have you ever deal with 16" stocks? They are absolutely massive. I have a set in the garage, and I'm not entirely sure I can package them under the truck. Also, 16" travel at the shock is more than most people will ever need. I have 16" travel coilovers on my main crawler, and I kinda wish I had stuck with 14s for the front on it.
 
#50 ·
I have run 14" shocks on my Jeep CJ, they were certainly excessive. I was running mono leaf glass springs and long shackles but never ran out of shock. When I do my Bronco FS I will more than likely do just coils and single shock, over coil over. If I did do a crawler only I would go three link front with coil over and four link rear with coil over. I ran 14" coil overs in my drag car and they were tall, extending into the trunk.
 
#53 ·
He won't need 16" shocks, I have never maxed out 14's and he's running a very similar setup. Get more than you need with this for serious wheeling. I don't even use mine anymore for wheeling and like the setup onroad, though the front travel requires serious shocks to keep it in check.



 
#54 ·
Yeah. I'll probably run a 12" or 14" shock. Whichever packages under the truck better. I'd like 14s just so I shouldn't have to worry at all about limiting straps, but it'll all come down to whatever fits after I bolt in the F250 shock towers. Going to bolt them high on the frame, take a couple measurements, then order my Bilsteins based off of that.
 
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