Matchbox's 91 SAS - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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Matchbox's 91 SAS

Finally, after gathering parts for about 6 months, I took the plunge today, and pulled the TTB out. So I thought I'd finally start this thread! I've got a ton of pictures on my camera, but my computer is down, so all you get are the ones from my phone for now.



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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Got some 4.56s for the front and rear since I'm going through this. I've been running the stock 3.55s since I bought the rig, with 35" tires new Trac loc carrier for front too


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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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After a little research, I learned I could set up gears. I had to buy the little inch pound beam type torque wrench and a dial indicator, had everything else already. It took a bit on the first set I did. I'm calling it a learning curve. Doing the rear was 3x quicker.


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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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The axle is a dana 44 out of a '79. The one with the cast wedges. I rebuilt the whole thing, new bearings, seals, balljoints, but all of those pics are on my camera, I'll put them up later. Origionally, the covers and knuckles were gonna be red to match the rig. It's gonna be camo in the end, so I switched it up.


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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 10:51 PM
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I got the same year truck but a 60
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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 02-29-2016, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Wish I could have done the 60 and 10.25 but it isn't in my budget this time. If I had more patience, I could have waited another year and gone that route.


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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Worked on the drivers side today. Got the old spring and shock tower out. Then I layed out some holes for the new tower, located about a 1.5" forward of the old coil. Lots of fun drilling these holes! Then I did the same for the shock tower. Everything bolts up good. After that I did some measuring and built my frame side Trac bar mount. Quite simaler to many I've seen here, it goes from the frame to the cross member. I'll get it bolted up tomorrow, then demo the passenger side. I heard from y'all the driver side was the pain, so I did it first. Not bad actually.


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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, I built some lower coil retainers today too. Supermotors is acting up, I'll get pics up later I hope.


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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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here they are
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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Made my new transmission crossmember... Haven't drilled the holes in the bottom of sides where it will mount to the frame yet, because I think I can use a couple of the existing holes. I need to take the existing one out, and put this one up to see where everything lands.
The reason I made a new one is because I made some extended radius arms, and they will mount in here somewhere. I won't know where till I hang the axle and have this mounted.
Also got the passenger side coil and shock towers installed, along with the frame side Trac bar mount.
I couldn't get the Pittman arm off with a pickle fork, gonna have to find a little gear puller I guess. I need to drill it out to 3/4" for my heim steering setup. So...big weekend coming up. Its a slow go I'm seeing.
Thanks to all who have done this and made informative threads!!! I appreciate it!


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post #11 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-07-2016, 02:07 AM
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nice work! thanks for adding pictures :)
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post #12 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-07-2016, 09:35 AM
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I like the fabed parts
Weld em up strong and keep on keeping on!
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post #13 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-07-2016, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! My coil cups arent perfect, but they fit tight, and I.5" deep, they'll work!
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post #14 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Do I need to put something under my tranny while I swap the crossmember out, or will stay put since its bolted to bell housing?


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post #15 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 11:34 AM
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Would stick a jack stand under it, might break an engine mount,dent the pan or wipe out the rear trans seal.
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post #16 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Will do, thanks


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post #17 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Union meeting gone wild last night, did nothing for my SAS. Just a reminder why I limit my partying I guess. I'm hoping to hang the axle tomorrow morning, and get the lengths for my Trac bar and drag link and get them made. I've got one end of them done, heims welded in, so it shouldn't take long! Also before the drinks yesterday, I put my axle side Trac bar mount on the axle. I made it with room to adjust height to match up my drag link angle.


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post #18 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Second set of radius arms I'm working with. First set was just heads for duff arms, and they would not completely tighten down on the wedges. Ended up stripping them out. So i
helicoiled them, and put them aside for now. I got another set of arms from junk yard, and extended them. But I'm trying to install them right now, and same thing happens....FML! Has anyone ever made some spacers to take this room up? About 3/16 all I need. Somebody stop me or I'm doing it.


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post #19 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 03:36 PM
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I would have done studs to begin with and lock tighted them with green lock tight. That stuff don't move unless you heat it to 450 degrees. Also throughly clean all the threads, take all the plating off the fasteners too with toilet bowl cleaner. The internal threads clean with brake clean an run a thread chaser through. For ease of clearance and to get a thick wall socket on the nut use 12PT nuts and studs from ARP, they won't strip or break. Looks like you do not have a whole lotta bolt hanging out there either, might go a little longer, get the premium ARP bolts they are way stronger.
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post #20 of 61 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 445 FE Bronco View Post
I would have done studs to begin with and lock tighted them with green lock tight. That stuff don't move unless you heat it to 450 degrees. Also throughly clean all the threads, take all the plating off the fasteners too with toilet bowl cleaner. The internal threads clean with brake clean an run a thread chaser through. For ease of clearance and to get a thick wall socket on the nut use 12PT nuts and studs from ARP, they won't strip or break. Looks like you do not have a whole lotta bolt hanging out there either, might go a little longer, get the premium ARP bolts they are way stronger.
I was thinking about studs, but I have no room for the nuts on the arm side. And longer bolts end up running out of threads and have just a shoulder, that won't let me get them tight either. I've chased all the threads, and I'll get new bolts tomorrow and get the zinc polished off of them and give that a shot. Just seems odd to me that neither sets of these will go the last 1/4" without stripping.


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