Solid Axle alignment - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jermil01 View Post
USA Alloy PN is 11802. It is listed for Jeeps but works on Fords as well.
Do they know that? I would have bought them had I known they fit a Ford D-44 Moonbeam.

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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gacknar View Post
Do they know that? I would have bought them had I known they fit a Ford D-44 Moonbeam.
by they, do you mean USA alloy? I know that I had emailed prior to buying the ball joints and they confirmed they worked on the Ford Dana 44 as well..either way, they're on my rig now..
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jermil01 View Post
by they, do you mean USA alloy?
Yes

You would think they would advertise that on there site. Maybe there afraid they will scare the Jeep guys off if they mention one of there products fits another brand.

Well, I guess when I wear the ones I installed out I'll buy theirs.

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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 08:43 PM
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A quick and easy way to rule out brakes use a non contact ir thermometer after driving around.
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 09:52 PM
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HA no ball joints here, king pins.
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scparrish View Post
A quick and easy way to rule out brakes use a non contact ir thermometer after driving around.
I've got a brand new caliper on that side so I know for sure it's not the brakes.
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 01:59 PM
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I kind of skimmed the thread, but have you had the truck on an alignment rack? Went I first put my 60 in, my camber was off by 2 on the passenger side, and it pulled to the right. Toe-In & Caster were perfect, and the axle was confirmed to be straight & centered under the rig. After I fixed the camber I never had a problem again.


I put a RedHead in my F250, which already had everything replaced, and it made a noticeable difference in the way it steers. D60 with everything new or good, professionally aligned, new swaybar bushings, everything 100%. Put the RedHead in, and it handles like a racecar now. It is unbelievable how amazing their steering boxes are.
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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it has not been on rack, but that is a good suggestion..camber could certainly be part of the problem. I had the aforementioned 1/2 degree camber bushing in there that was broken inside the knuckle..could be that caused the camber to go out of whack..
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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check out my c-bushings..changing the oil today I noticed they were both cracked. I'm assuming this could cause issues with my steering??

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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 12:31 PM
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Solid Axle alignment

Very possible, could have rotated the axle a little and affected castor.


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post #31 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 12:43 PM
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I could also see that being one of those deals where it is fine sitting stationary but the worked bushings allow it to change as it is going down the road.


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post #32 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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thanks guys..these really aren't that old. I wonder how that got as bad as they did?? Anyway, now I just have to remember if I put 4 or 7 degree bushings in. pretty certain they were 4 since I have the extended radius arms..
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post #33 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 10:26 AM
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I have bought bushings that cracked after a years of so, why I am not sure? Maybe inferior compound? I like the poly ones but they do cause a little rougher ride so sometimes if you want more flex and smoother ride rubber is your best option.
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post #34 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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I think these are poly bushings.
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post #35 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-05-2016, 07:28 PM
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Weird they would sqish so soon being new, the front axle walk happens a lot in leaf or IFS but track arms are generally pretty solid if the bushings are good. Maybe they were a little too tight and split? I have seen even the best of bushings squeeze out and crack, kinda like sway bar bushings or track bar mounts when you over tighten them (don't ask me how I know this LOL).
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post #36 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-06-2016, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 445 FE Bronco View Post
Weird they would sqish so soon being new, the front axle walk happens a lot in leaf or IFS but track arms are generally pretty solid if the bushings are good. Maybe they were a little too tight and split? I have seen even the best of bushings squeeze out and crack, kinda like sway bar bushings or track bar mounts when you over tighten them (don't ask me how I know this LOL).
I think you nailed..they are probably way too tight..I remember when they were installed looking at them and thinking that, but I didn't say anything..
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post #37 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 10:36 AM
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How would you over tighten C-Bushings?

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post #38 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-09-2016, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gacknar View Post
How would you over tighten C-Bushings?
you may have a point..I guess they're either tight or they're not, it's not like you'd want any daylight between the caps and the R/A...
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post #39 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-15-2016, 10:02 PM
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There is a torque spec once the 2 steels C's meet. But I run poly, and in '09 I swapped mine out, not because I had this issue but because I went from 4* to 2* since my truck truly was sitting at 6" lift, not 7-8". But you MUST use white lithium grease during install so they are not bound up. It's hard enough to get these snug to even start the bolts as I remember. I just checked mine and not even a hint of a crack anywhere.

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post #40 of 42 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Shadofax View Post
There is a torque spec once the 2 steels C's meet. But I run poly, and in '09 I swapped mine out, not because I had this issue but because I went from 4* to 2* since my truck truly was sitting at 6" lift, not 7-8". But you MUST use white lithium grease during install so they are not bound up. It's hard enough to get these snug to even start the bolts as I remember. I just checked mine and not even a hint of a crack anywhere.
mine aren't quite that old and the fact that they're cracked like this makes me think they might not have been torqued properly. I do remember the lithium grease on them..

4 to 2 degrees doesn't seem like much. did you notice a difference in the way it rode?
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