D44 SAS in 88 F-150 - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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This is where things got a little bit tricky. I didn't want to mount my heim joint with just a bolt through it and listen to it rattle around. Instead I bought a set of stainless misalignment spacers from Ruff stuff and the steel core for rubber bushings. The misalighment spacers fit into the holes drilled into the cross-member and the bushing core goes through the whole assembly. I have a couple of extra washers as shims to fit in the cross member opening. All of these components when assembled together give me a machined "clearance fit" and should prevent dynamic shock loading.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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I am getting ready to order rear leaf springs for swapping the 8.8 to the 9". I believe I have about 4" of lift in the front, can I put 6" lifted springs in the rear without the factory blocks? or do I need to keep the factory blocks?

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 10:01 AM
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I think the only things (besides a couple inches of lift) the factory blocks do is provide a bump stop. I don't think they do anything for your pinion angle.

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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 10:59 AM
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The factory blocks are angled (aabout 8* as I recall), so they help point the driveshaft right at the Tcase (if you have the Double Cardon driveshaft).

I'd try not to reuse the factory blocks, I've seen a few split over the years as they age and rust. New leafs should come with new angled shims. I've got a few pics of when I installed new leafs a few years back, I actually made my own angled shim, plus I use the zero rate leaf (block) to move the axle back 1". But anyway the pics I have will show you how the driveshaft needs to be pointed up at the tcase.
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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Shadofax View Post
The factory blocks are angled (aabout 8* as I recall), so they help point the driveshaft right at the Tcase (if you have the Double Cardon driveshaft).

I'd try not to reuse the factory blocks, I've seen a few split over the years as they age and rust. New leafs should come with new angled shims. I've got a few pics of when I installed new leafs a few years back, I actually made my own angled shim, plus I use the zero rate leaf (block) to move the axle back 1". But anyway the pics I have will show you how the driveshaft needs to be pointed up at the tcase.
This swap is going in a short bed pickup. My pickup didn't have any angled shims in between the springs and the axle, only the lift blocks. And to my uncalibrated eyes, they had no angle to them. Not sure on the shorter wheelbase trucks though, they may have been equipped like the broncos.

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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 67galax View Post
This swap is going in a short bed pickup. My pickup didn't have any angled shims in between the springs and the axle, only the lift blocks. And to my uncalibrated eyes, they had no angle to them. Not sure on the shorter wheelbase trucks though, they may have been equipped like the broncos.
This is what I'm referring to with how the driveshaft should be pointed (upward), IF the bronco or F150 has a double cardan driveshaft:



DC driveshaft, this would be up top at the Tcase mount:


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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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I do not have a DC drive shaft. Should the pinion be pointed at the T-case within a degree or 2 or should it be angle down or up more? If I find some time, I will get pictures of my Ruff Stuff over the knucle steering setup posted.

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Vochy View Post
I do not have a DC drive shaft. Should the pinion be pointed at the T-case within a degree or 2 or should it be angle down or up more? If I find some time, I will get pictures of my Ruff Stuff over the knucle steering setup posted.
We used to have a pic on here of this, do a little googling on driveshaft angles....without a DC you should not point it directly at the tcase, rather your driveshaft needs to be in parallel sync... and then small shims to adjust if you are running to great an angle

Here is a link that may be helpful:

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata..._problems.html

This shows standard driveshaft, but the upper right pic if you click it gets into other parts and that's where it shows double cardan shafts for short wheelbase appilcations. Fortunately the bronco d shaft is not nearly as short as a jeep, also have the DC, and my rear shaft is 1 ton 1350 Ujoints (not stock), it's smooth as silk. But back to regular driveshaft,

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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Before I set up the steering I had to set up the track bar. I made the mistake of buying a mount from duff and the track bar from wild horses. Both companies make a quality product they just don't work well together for a relatively low lift like I am doing. After asking around in another section I figured out the duff mount is in line with the DS frame rail and the wild horses track bar is made for the factory position outside of the frame rail (for a 78-79). This forces the axle to sit about 3 inches towards the PS.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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To correct the track bar issue I cut out about 2 inches of the bar and TIG welded it back together. I kept it on the long side just in case I decide to pick up a couple more inches of lift.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #31 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 10:42 PM
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I have a stock trackbar with new bushings in case you ever need another.....my thought using the stock bar (which I did not), was to cut off the end and drill/tap it to make it adjustable.

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post #32 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the offer, but I have stock track bar too. I though about modifying it too but ended up buying the wild horses TB because it is chromoly.

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #33 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-14-2016, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Any suggestion on brand of rear leaf springs?

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #34 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-15-2016, 08:23 AM
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post #35 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Let me tell you about my experience setting up the steering. I decided to go with the ruff stuff DOM GM Y-link setup. I hate the way the tie rod looks hanging under the knuckles so I went with the over the knuckle setup. I got started by drilling the knuckles out to 7/8" and using the tapered inserts, I took my time and used lots of love juice. Next I cut one of the pieces of DOM to length after careful measurement, then I TIG welded the threaded inserts on to the end. I set it in place to test fit.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #36 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 10:15 AM Thread Starter
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Next step is to cut the drag ling to length and weld threaded bungs. No issues there however I installed a "sweet" Diff cover that causes tie rod interference. On top of that the tie rod interferes with the track bar stud on the PS . Since I am committed to making the over the knuckle application work I find a solution on you tube from some jeep guys, @ interference points.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #37 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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Another leaf spring question. Truck is an 88' the 9" is out of 78', do I need leafs for a 78' or an 88'? Whats the difference? I know they need to be 3" wide.

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #38 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 11:17 AM
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I think you'll want springs for the year of truck. The only difference, if any, might be the size of the 'pin' that aligns everything.
On my red truck, I used 70's factory blocks on my springs and they worked fine on my 90's springs. I may have had to open the hole up a little in the older blocks.

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post #39 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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10-4

Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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post #40 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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The remedy to my interference problem is to put as 10-15 degree bend in both ends of the tie rod and about an 8 degree bend in the drag link. I did this basically the same way that I did the radius arm extensions, heat and leverage. Another issue I ran into was the pitman arm hole being to small for the TRE. I bought the tapered spacer from ruff stuff and drilled out the pitman arm to 7/8. However it was hard to drill the hole straight and I ended up over-sizing it and i had to braze the tapered spacer into the pitman arm.
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Vochy: '06 F-150, Black Supercab Short box, 5.4L 4x4 XLT, 1" Daystar Leveling Kit, 275 70 R17 BFG A/T KO's
88' F-150 Black Short Box, 302 4x4, true dual flowmater 2in exaust, Mustang equal length headers, 31X10.50 R15 BFG A/T KO's, New Doors and Fenders installed, MAF conversion, Six Liter Tune up, Saginaw Power Steering Pump upgrade, P&P GT40 Heads, 3G Alt Upgrade, D44 SAS and 9" rear in-process.
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