SAS noob - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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SAS noob

i know there are tons of posts about SAS but I'm confused as hell, tbh. i found this on clist. is this a decent buy?

https://york.craigslist.org/pts/5989733190.html
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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or these:

seller says they are from a 74 f250
https://reading.craigslist.org/pts/5976428301.html
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 02:37 AM
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The first one is over priced and the 2nd set is normal price to me.But honestly no way id do a sas and have a dana 44 in the front its not that much of a upgrade over what you got now.Have you looked at Suspension his kit bolts in and uses a 85-96 f350 dana 60 and while your getting that axle grab the sterling rear end also.Or another option now is 80-96 Ford Bronco/F-150 4X4 Solid axle conversion kit-leaf spring. ? Sky Manufacturing and you can run super duty leaf spring axles with that which can still be cheap to get used.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp8 View Post
The first one is over priced and the 2nd set is normal price to me.But honestly no way id do a sas and have a dana 44 in the front its not that much of a upgrade over what you got now.Have you looked at Suspension his kit bolts in and uses a 85-96 f350 dana 60 and while your getting that axle grab the sterling rear end also.Or another option now is 80-96 Ford Bronco/F-150 4X4 Solid axle conversion kit-leaf spring. ? Sky Manufacturing and you can run super duty leaf spring axles with that which can still be cheap to get used.
Im looking at a less expensive route to get 4.10 front and rear and a SAS. $3k plus the cost of the D60 axle (which seem to be $1k or more around here) for the broncoair kit is out of my price range, right now.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 08:35 AM
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A SAS is a good way to go if you are going to hit the trails pretty hard. As you will see the solid front end is much more durable and flexable. As for the gearing you will most likely have to regear any axle you get. Unless the previous owner has already done that to the front end. The 4.10 rears are out there just hard to find. If I were going to regear your truck with the e4od I'd go with 4.56 or 4.88 on 35's (33's would be ok w/ 4.10).

Dana 44 - $200-250
Dana 60kp - 1k-1500
Dana 60 rear - $200-400
Sterling 10.25 - $200-$400 (better way to go)


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 03:57 PM
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first one isn't a terrible price, but that axle is going to need a lot of work to get into decent condition and you're going to need to get wedges welded on to it, that is unless you decide to go the leaf spring route which is what that axle is set up for..

I'd be curious to see pics of the second option..on the surface a D60 rear and D44 HP front would be a killer deal..just curious if he is correct in what he has. I thought the older dana44's were low pinion, but I could be wrong.

You need to decide what you want to do long term with you rig..If you're into wheeling then go for the solid axle, they'll take some punishment are less prone to having their alignment thrown out, and are easier to work on than their TTB cousins..having said that, there is quite a bit of work that goes into putting a solid axle setup under one of these rigs..you can't just throw one in a go..well you can, but it will work like s**t...

If you're a casual wheeler, stick with the TTB, and upgrade your gears, add a locket and maybe some long travel arms and call it a day..I put my solid axle under my rig almost 10 years ago and I'm still working out the kinks...
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 12:25 AM
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First one is too much considering what is missing. It's worth about $50-75.
The second set are scrap metal. Total garbage.
Keep looking.

these are worth looking into
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 05:38 AM
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Did you look at that sky manufacturing link the 2nd one?It can use super duty axles 99-04 which are cheap and easy to find at a junkyard today.The front needs their kit and a track bar kit plus the steering.For the rear axle out of a super duty if i remember right you just have to loosen the bolts holding the shock mounts on and flip the around to the other side of the axle and it will bolt in.The super duty axles have bigger brakes and the fronts are unit bearings which is good and bad.The good its sealed so if you go off road you won't have to clean out the mud from the wheel bearings.The bad they go out no warning and are not too cheap to buy.I would still rather use the super duty axles just because they are cheap and super easy to find used vs the older stuff your looking at.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 09:43 AM
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If SD axles are cheap in your area (they aren't in mine. front goes for $1k at most yards) or you can get lucky and find someone parting one out.
If buying a leaf spring super duty Dana 60 take an 1 5/16" thin walled socket with you and check the pinion nut. Early trucks had a Dana 50. Just to be sure, if the pinion nut is 1 5/16" it's a D60.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monolith View Post
First one is too much considering what is missing. It's worth about $50-75.
The second set are scrap metal. Total garbage.
Keep looking.

these are worth looking into
That second set I'd have to go back to Mr. N's site to look at this again, it's been so long.....In 74 that D44 front should be low pinion, and I don't know about king pin, and I don't recall anyone ever using one of the old closed knuckle designs, but I don't remember why other than back to the low pinion axle. Plus it's certainly not "1 ton" as advertised. The D60 rear before 77 as I recall are only 16 spline axles.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2017, 03:57 PM
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SD axles in GA are cheap. I have bought two sets for 750 now. The last set was 07 axles with 4:30 gears. I find them all the time for $350 for a front 60. The price does change depending on the year. The 03/04 axles were 60 and the older ones were mostly 50, but some had 60s. Also the unit bearings and ball joints in the 04 and older axles suck. 05 and up are stronger and have bigger brakes.

But anyway why run rough ass riding superduty leafs in a lighter bronco? Coils are the best imo. I have had my share of F-250 trucks. The coil ones hands down ride far better.

Also op isn't looking for a hard core trail truck. A d44 is more than strong enough for what he is wanting to do. He only wants a 33-35" tire. If you run tons on a small tire all you did was make it easier to get stuck, since the diffs are so big and hang low. 37s is the swapping point. You can get away with a 44 still but could also go 60 and not kill your ground clearance.

You should not pay more than 3-400 for a 44 unless it's rebuilt, and in the 3-400 range it should be complete hub to hub. To do a proven parts SAS will be about 1500 not counting the axle. And that's with all new parts. Duff arms, deaver coils, ruffstuff dom track bar with himes and dom steering kit. If you go with stock arms and 78-79 drop brackets that will save about 6-700. (I have done 3 that way) and 3 with Duff/cage arms.


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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 06:32 AM
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For a 35 its cheaper to keep the ttb,A 37 on a dana 44 unless its a mall crawler isn't going to last long,The hubs will give out first then the stub shafts next and on the way in the axle after you upgrade parts after you break them.After 2 or 3 sets of hubs and stub shafts you could have bought that dana 60.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp8 View Post
For a 35 its cheaper to keep the ttb,A 37 on a dana 44 unless its a mall crawler isn't going to last long,The hubs will give out first then the stub shafts next and on the way in the axle after you upgrade parts after you break them.After 2 or 3 sets of hubs and stub shafts you could have bought that dana 60.

Not really. You will spend a good bit on keeping the ttb in check on 35s or on replacing tires from bad alignment.

A lot depends on wheeling style and locked or open. Also throw in some chrmo shafts or rcv shafts your stronger than a stock 60 with less weight and way cheaper. Have you priced dana 60 parts? Not cheap at all. I just built mine. Example Rcv for a 44 $1400 for a 60 $2400. Warn premium hubs 44 $130 for a 60 is right at $300 and the premiums have a Lifetime Warranty, as do the rcv axles.

Point being you could build a 44 for 2-2500 and a 60 will cost you 5k or so. Plus you have to buy a rear axle to match, new wheels that are 8 lug, and custom mounts for the 60.

I know someone that's running 38" tsl sx, 5.13s with arbs, chrmo shafts, warn hubs. No issues or broken shafts and wheels the snot out of it.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lifted Fords View Post
Not really. You will spend a good bit on keeping the ttb in check on 35s or on replacing tires from bad alignment.

A lot depends on wheeling style and locked or open. Also throw in some chrmo shafts or rcv shafts your stronger than a stock 60 with less weight and way cheaper. Have you priced dana 60 parts? Not cheap at all. I just built mine. Example Rcv for a 44 $1400 for a 60 $2400. Warn premium hubs 44 $130 for a 60 is right at $300 and the premiums have a Lifetime Warranty, as do the rcv axles.

Point being you could build a 44 for 2-2500 and a 60 will cost you 5k or so. Plus you have to buy a rear axle to match, new wheels that are 8 lug, and custom mounts for the 60.

I know someone that's running 38" tsl sx, 5.13s with arbs, chrmo shafts, warn hubs. No issues or broken shafts and wheels the snot out of it.
All good points. I invested in the alloy shafts/joints up front. But my decision was also around having already bought an ARB for the TTB a few years earlier, the thought of selling that at a loss and buying an ARB for the 60 (which is hundreds more as I recall), was painful. And I knew I'd never go bigger than 37's, which I ran for about a decade until recently going back down to 35's. For moderate wheeling it's been 100% reliable and much more pleasurable (for me) on rough trails vs. TTB. Mine never was a "how to do an SAS on a low cost budget" though. I did originally want a 60/10.25, but ended up very happy this whole time with a 44/60FF.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 07:54 PM
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All good points. I invested in the alloy shafts/joints up front. But my decision was also around having already bought an ARB for the TTB a few years earlier, the thought of selling that at a loss and buying an ARB for the 60 (which is hundreds more as I recall), was painful. And I knew I'd never go bigger than 37's, which I ran for about a decade until recently going back down to 35's. For moderate wheeling it's been 100% reliable and much more pleasurable (for me) on rough trails vs. TTB. Mine never was a "how to do an SAS on a low cost budget" though. I did originally want a 60/10.25, but ended up very happy this whole time with a 44/60FF.

Exactly. Well said and proof, it will hold up just fine.

That's what we did to my buddies also. He had a ARB in his ttb already and we just put it in his solid 44. I think he had 5-600 in the axle. That's new seals, bearings, ball joints.

If I didn't already have my 60/10.25 I would of went with a d44. In fact I bought a complete d44 for $250 to put in mine(would of been cheaper after rebuilding the 60 again)


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