SAS NEWBIE QUESTIONS - NO FLAMING ALLOWED - Page 276 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #5501 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 12:00 PM
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Yea, I think 7-8 is more like it. Some people do as much as 11-12. (Not sure about that much) I had my project at the 3-4 and then changed it to 6-7. It drives way better.
I agree with the 6-7. To spread that out I would say 5-8. But it does depend on the lift/tire setup. A smaller lift/tire combo you could probably stay in the 3-5* area. For a larger setup I would say 5-8 is where you want to be. But as you pointed out Elliot, your pinion angle is going to suffer. Especially when you get to the 7 and 8 caster number. But that's just the reality of the situation, unless you want to cut and turn the C's. At around 5-6 you will probably get drive line vibrations depending on your lift and tire details. I assume you have manual hubs so unlocking solves that problem. How much actual lift are you running and what size tires?

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post #5502 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 01:06 PM
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Ive got about 6" of lift. 37 inch iroks. Manual hubs. Im putting hydro assist on my truck soon aswell as beadlocks. Being as its more a trail rig only now. I may wait, see how it drives with the ram assist and then re asses. Ill pull a wheel off tonight and re check the current casyer but i think im at three

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post #5503 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 05:06 PM
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passenger drop sas builds/info

Hey Guys,
did the search not really finding what im looking for.
I might be searching for the wrong thing i dont know...
I am currently running a 3/4 ton 2wd set up on my 83. (10.25 in the rear)
It has been on there long enough. I have a set of obtainable cucv axles nearby and was looking for passenger drop conversions. so ill take and links, keywords or names you have thanks guys!

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post #5504 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 11:24 PM
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So I am thinking of doing a sas on my 90, I have access to a 97 Ram 1500 with a coil over d44, what would be included in putting this in my bronco? is it the right width? if its line up right will the driveshaft meet the pumpkin yoke? where can I buy radius arms? What about steering set up?

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post #5505 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by foolish_mortal View Post
So I am thinking of doing a sas on my 90, I have access to a 97 Ram 1500 with a coil over d44, what would be included in putting this in my bronco? is it the right width? if its line up right will the driveshaft meet the pumpkin yoke? where can I buy radius arms? What about steering set up?
Is the Dodge diff on the left? If so, it shouldn't be too tough. You could use the arms from the Dodge or make your own links.

I still say, if your going to do the work to SAS, go with 05' or newer Superduty stuff. Very easy (almost bolt on) and strong. The stock 44 is not much of upgrade.

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post #5506 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 12:34 PM
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Is the Dodge diff on the left? If so, it shouldn't be too tough. You could use the arms from the Dodge or make your own links.

I still say, if your going to do the work to SAS, go with 05' or newer Superduty stuff. Very easy (almost bolt on) and strong. The stock 44 is not much of upgrade.
The dodges diff is on the left.
I'm not saying you're wrong on the SD axles, but it would be total overkill for what I want to do and I've already got a locked 8.8 with yukon shafts and a few other goodies

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post #5507 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 04:49 PM
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Dodge axles suck. That's a pretty general comment but they have their issues. Anything with Dodge on it belongs in a Dodge. Get a Ford 44 and do that swap. It will be easier in the end. I don't blame you for doing a 44 since you have your rear built. But I also agree with helirich, 60 is that much better and if your going through the hassle, expense, why not do something that is probably 50% stronger. I'm not a huge fan of the 05 and newer Superduty stuff, but they are Dana 60's.

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post #5508 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 06:50 PM
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Alright guys I need some serious help... I have a 1989 ford bronco with a fuel injected 302. It idles perfectly and the timing is spot on. However if we try to drive it in reverse or forward it makes a loud backfiring type noise through the intake. We just rebuilt the engine and transmission, got a new distributor, new fuel filter, new plugs and wires, and new injectors. Still same issue. Help!!!
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post #5509 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 07:06 PM
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Alright guys I need some serious help... I have a 1989 ford bronco with a fuel injected 302. It idles perfectly and the timing is spot on. However if we try to drive it in reverse or forward it makes a loud backfiring type noise through the intake. We just rebuilt the engine and transmission, got a new distributor, new fuel filter, new plugs and wires, and new injectors. Still same issue. Help!!!
Since your new here, I'm gonna cut you a break... Biff Tannon
Why did you post this in the solid axle swap section? Someone will move this for you so don't be surprised when it's gone. It will likely go to this forum.
Have you double checked your firing order and timing?
Welcome to FSB!

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post #5510 of 5524 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 07:22 PM
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Sorry I moved it to that forum! Noob mistake my apologies!
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post #5511 of 5524 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 01:04 PM
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I've got most of my parts but I'm still stuck on radius arms. Has anyone of you guys seen where they are angled inward? I was thinking about following the angle of the wedges toward the inside for natural tire clearance then buying some premade brackets and welding them to a custom cross member that ties into both frame rails. Do you guys see any issues with that ?
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post #5512 of 5524 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blicharski1989 View Post
I've got most of my parts but I'm still stuck on radius arms. Has anyone of you guys seen where they are angled inward? I was thinking about following the angle of the wedges toward the inside for natural tire clearance then buying some premade brackets and welding them to a custom cross member that ties into both frame rails. Do you guys see any issues with that ?
Here is a build of what your thinking. A lot of people do one of two things; they get duff/BKG arms or the stretch the bushings using the factory arms.


87fomoco's F-150 SAS
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post #5513 of 5524 (permalink) Old 04-17-2017, 01:56 AM
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Does anyone know if I run stock TTB coil buckets can I still use the duff radius arms without moving my buckets forward? I know I would have to run a custom transmission crossmember.

Does any run the bronco bobs extended radius arm?

Thanks guya
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post #5514 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 12:01 AM
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Would someone with a D44 swap take a pic of their lower coil cup while sitting on its tires? My sas ended up an 1 1/2" higher than expected and now im thinking that my original 4 degree c cap bushings are not sufficient and am considering the 7 degree. Mine seems to tilt forward quite a bit and steering is sloppy but still drivable. Thanks in advance.

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post #5515 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by billylh View Post
Would someone with a D44 swap take a pic of their lower coil cup while sitting on its tires? My sas ended up an 1 1/2" higher than expected and now im thinking that my original 4 degree c cap bushings are not sufficient and am considering the 7 degree. Mine seems to ti lt forward quite a bit and steering is sloppy but still drivable. Thanks in advance.
I don't know about your height issues, but 4 degrees is not enough caster. The 7 will make a world of differnce.
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Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #5516 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-07-2017, 10:54 AM
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I agrre on caster, i swapped a 60 in and i have about 4 degrees as it sits now and i dont like the way it feels at center. Kind of a dead zone and it tends to wander. Im thinkin for the 50 bucks ill grab some new bushings and add 2 degrees.... See if that helps

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post #5517 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 01:04 AM
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How tall of jack stands am I going to need?

Can I put them under the frame rail when doing the SAS or should I do it at the front of the frame horns.
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post #5518 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 02:06 AM
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I used the tallest, 12T stands that HF have and also had 2x6's stacked accordingly /screwed together 10 height (about 12") on my frame horns. I used furniture dollies to slide the axle under the bronco. Depending on the radius arms you use, you'll need the transmission crossmember forward clear.
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post #5519 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 10:42 AM
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I did the same as green turd, stands on the front horns and an ikea dolly to slide the axle in/out from the side. I didnt like the way the truck settled when jacked behind the radius arm bracket only. One it was a ton of stress on the frame and two, it could teeter totter if i climbed on er!

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post #5520 of 5524 (permalink) Old 05-12-2017, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by blicharski1989 View Post
How tall of jack stands am I going to need?

Can I put them under the frame rail when doing the SAS or should I do it at the front of the frame horns.
Here's what I did, 6 ton jack stands on 13.5" tall 2x4 wood stand


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