SAS NEWBIE QUESTIONS - NO FLAMING ALLOWED - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by bronco boy View Post
No, it moves it rearwards. The radius arm is the fixed point, so there is no way it can move forward.
I'm not that good at geometry, but if you hold out your arm and pretend your elbow is the radius arm and your fist is the axle; whether you go up or down, your fist can only move rearwards. Make sense?
Yeah, makes sence if the radius arm was parellel to the framerail. Most Radius arms I've seen are at an angle downwards to teh axle, so when they come up, the axle would move forwards.


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post #62 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 94_chickentaco View Post
As stated above you will want to re-use your Yoke off the d44 TTB chunk and swap it on the 79 axle.
The chevy TRE's are readily "available at most all parts stores, here is a great resource for "why" and "how"

http://www.partsmike.com/tech/tie_rodid.html



Ok thanks. I found a complete tie rod and drag link set up for a f 350 at a good deal so I think im going to go that route so i dont have to make anything.

Anyone know if I could make the lower coil buckets for the 79 coils or should i just buy them.
Thanks
John
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post #63 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maelthra View Post
Yeah, makes sence if the radius arm was parellel to the framerail. Most Radius arms I've seen are at an angle downwards to teh axle, so when they come up, the axle would move forwards.

Not exactly because the arm rarely goes past parallel. Down travel is always more than uptravel, so the amount it moves forward is minimal compared to the amount it will move backwards. Its a moot point though because the amount is still not enough either way to make a difference.
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post #64 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by fordrebel View Post
Anyone know if I could make the lower coil buckets for the 79 coils or should i just buy them.
Thanks
John
Theres alot of bends in them. id think it would be alot easier to just buy a set.

the lower cup:


and the spring retainer:
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post #65 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 11:24 AM
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Not exactly because the arm rarely goes past parallel. Down travel is always more than uptravel, so the amount it moves forward is minimal compared to the amount it will move backwards. Its a moot point though because the amount is still not enough either way to make a difference.
The other thing I forgot to mention is that all this "geometry" is based on the angle of how the radius arm bracket is mounted or made. Usually they are angled down and outwards slightly.

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post #66 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 12:37 PM
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I read somewheres around here that it was better to add a 1" spacer below the lower coil mount than to lower the coil bucket 1" on the frame to gain an additional 1" of lift.

True, not true, or just a matter of opinion?


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post #67 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 01:16 PM
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I would rather lower the coil bucket. The lower coil mount is just two small bolts. Putting a block down there and making those bolts longer seems to be a bad idea to me.
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post #68 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
I would rather lower the coil bucket. The lower coil mount is just two small bolts. Putting a block down there and making those bolts longer seems to be a bad idea to me.
I got to thinking about that after I machined some 1" pucks out of some big bar 302SS we had laying around at work. I have to go look at my R/A's, but I don't think that there's enuff material on them to drill and tap for a bigger bolt.

Thanks, Rep.


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post #69 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
Theres alot of bends in them. id think it would be alot easier to just buy a set.

the lower cup:


and the spring retainer:
Ok Thanks for the help. Im sure Ill have a few other wuestions sfter i get started. Well I just thought of one. What is the best way to get the axle aligned under the truck? Ive seen where guys had a string and a weight hangind from the upper mounts. I suppose that I want the weight in the middle of the lower buckets. Any tips?
Thanks
John
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post #70 of 5541 (permalink) Old 02-20-2007, 10:08 PM
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When i did mine, i hung the axle off the coils (It may not appear so in the pic, but the axle was just off the ground). then i ran a rod thru both radius arms and used a floorjack to bring them up to the frame


Then i measured for wheelbase to make sure the axle was in the right spot (i couldnt use a plumb-bob because the driveway was sloped).
Once i determined that, i measured where the radius arms were hitting the frame against a known point (the bolt for the front of the leaf springs), and moved them until they were the same on both sides. Then i marked holes for the rad. arm bracket and drilled the holes. It is important to get them in the same spot left/right otherwise the axle will be crooked and the truck will drive funny.
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post #71 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 09:26 AM
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When buying 4.10 gears for my 88 FSB what rear end and front end do I have so I know what to buy.
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post #72 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-08-2007, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by uselesslabel View Post
When buying 4.10 gears for my 88 FSB what rear end and front end do I have so I know what to buy.
If it is all stock,

Front: D44 TTB
Rear: 8.8

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post #73 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 02:57 PM
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Intrested in SAS'ing my bronco...I want to maintain stock ride height, as the largest tire I will ever put on this rig is a 35. I have the fenders cut and they clear fine.
Would the stock 78-79 coils work for this application or would I need some sort of lift spring?
Tired of breaking my TTB.

1984 Bronco - 4.9/NP435/NP208 TTB'd front and welded 8.8 rear with 3.07s. 33 inch Kumoh Ventures on black spokes. Radiator mounted in bed, along with fuel tank & battery.
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post #74 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-22-2007, 03:53 PM
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Intrested in SAS'ing my bronco...I want to maintain stock ride height, as the largest tire I will ever put on this rig is a 35. I have the fenders cut and they clear fine.
You will be hard pressed to clear the crossmember without any lift. 4" is pretty much the minimum lift, unless you don't plan on any suspension movement.

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post #75 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 08:10 AM
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4 inches doesnt sound too bad...
I could just do a shackle flip in the rear and get 2 inches out back. Front end typically sits 2 inches lower than the rear anyways.
What springs should I use?

1984 Bronco - 4.9/NP435/NP208 TTB'd front and welded 8.8 rear with 3.07s. 33 inch Kumoh Ventures on black spokes. Radiator mounted in bed, along with fuel tank & battery.
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post #76 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 02:47 PM
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Its hard to say, depends on if you have a heavy bumper, or winch, etc as well as how soft/stiff of a coil you want. Your best bet would be to read up on bossind's swap, his came out real nice, and im pretty sure he's got the least-lifted SAS'ed rig on the board. Its probably the closest to what youre looking for.
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post #77 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 04:51 PM
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4 inches doesnt sound too bad...What springs should I use?
I'm using Pro-Comp 4" Chevy front springs (#11411).

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post #78 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 05:05 PM
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I'm using Pro-Comp 4" Chevy front springs (#11411).
You might wanna mention your a leaf boy.



But hey, the new Broncodriver mag is out and both you and Kev (RepT) are features, so congrats

It also looks like you are an "editor at large" or input person for them since they have you on their map Chris.

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post #79 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 05:22 PM
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You might wanna mention your a leaf boy.




and what is wrong with leafs....

Tim

Newest token Jeep owner....

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post #80 of 5541 (permalink) Old 03-23-2007, 06:24 PM
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and what is wrong with leafs....
nothing, they have their place for those unable to deal with the complexities of coil.
pinkunr likes this.

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