Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

where can i find softer springs for my 96 Bronco?

14K views 53 replies 7 participants last post by  rustycharms 
#1 ·
Hey everyone. I need to replace my ball joints, shocks and coil springs on my 96 Bronco. It has a quad shock suspension up front ands runs a 351. I already have a set of monroe sensa-trac shocks ready to go on.

This bronco has always had a very rough ride. The top coil on both springs are busted off. It has 110k miles and i have put the last 85,000 on it myself over the last 10 years. I want to find a stock height spring with a smoother ride. I dont want to go too expensive, and the stock springs at Jeffs bronco graveyard or Rockauto run about $80. I will need to do some research on them to find out the spring rates but i'm guessing they would be the same as stock.

Anybody know of any similarly priced springs that are softer? Your thoughts?
 
#4 ·
I'd try the {factory replacement} stock spring with just 2 {regular} shocks up front first.
x2 :)

In my experience the Gabriel gas truck shocks (like from Sears) feel harsh, and
yet not a good-firm-control at the same time. :/ Rancho 5000's feel better all the
way around to me. More in the control department and less harsh.

Might try just one set of Rancho 5000s with your new "B" springs? Then later after
the first set break-in good and start feeling softer might get another set of Rancho
5000s? >shrug<

Alvin in AZ
 
#3 ·
Anybody know of any similarly priced springs that are softer? Your thoughts?
Yeah, I got a thought. xD

Find out what springs are on it now.
Are you sure they're original factory springs?

If so, they'll have a white plastic label on 'em with black lettering, read off
the engineering numbers on the labels and post 'em. :)

In '91 (got the Ford light truck manuals for 1991) the stock front springs for
"all" Broncos was "B", according to the "book". I went-up 2 steps to D's from
a '91 F150 Super Cab, on mine. :)

New factory springs, like wimpy-assed "A" springs will give you "closest to
stock height" as anything you're gonna find aftermarket. They're made by
the factory to do that, at some level.

My '75 F150 came with wimpy springs and it -really- sucked! Holy crap. :/

They changed out under warranty to "lumber wagon springs". That's what
the guys at the dealership was saying "it'll ride like a lumber wagon with
those springs on it! :/" "I want 'em anyway! :)" Fixed the truck right up!

Brand spanking new and it'd bounce all over hell! :(

Boing boing boing boing boing boing boing<-shocks alone don't fix that!
(anybody wanna argue 'bout that? ;)

It'd bottom out going through Willcox. Willcox is a town that has the two
water drainage "dips" on both sides of most of their intersections. You've
seen streets like that I'm sure.

It'd dance sideways something terrible on a dirt road when new too. Fixed
that with a combination of the stiffer front springs and my own fixing it to
accept dual shocks front and back.

Just want you to know what wimpy springs might get-cha. "A" springs on
your Bronco prob'ly won't be quite as bad as my '75 F150 acted brand new
tho, I believe, but could be wrong 'bout that! :/

Here's the lighter of the two springs the dealership put on my '75 F150 in
'75. I found a heavy one that matched the heavier spring from the "set"
and put it on and leveled out the truck for-the-first-time-in-its-existence!
The other spring is a lighter spring and it's off an -F250- of the same era...

...that's 3/4" fuel hose I'd slipped over the "top turn" way back when.
That purple stripe is Ford's old way of identifying the springs, it's 2 steps
down from the top. I got a pair of "white with yellow stripes" on it now?
Anyway, they're 1 step down from the stiffest they made for those trucks.

Ford calls this measurement "ride height"...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/rideheight.jpg
...at 232+1/4" ...it's pretty dangged high. ;)
(both sides are -within- 1/64" of each other now)

Alvin in AZ
ps- My old pickup rides firm but not harsh.
 
#11 ·
Find out what springs are on it now.
Are you sure they're original factory springs?
I have not had a chance to check the coilspring for the stickers, but i do have the original window sticker that says it has the trailer towing package. Would that be a stiffer coil spring to start with? It also still has the long ago, fallen apart, red airbags inside the springs with airhoses running to just under the hood. I'm pretty sure this is all stock because i bought the Bronco from it's original owner with 25,000 miles on it. I doubt he ever had it over the speed limit, or did any other modifications to it.

My door jamb labels says DSO springs - J4D. Not sure if this refers to the front coils or rear leafs.
 
#5 ·
Here are a few things to think about regarding spring rates and shock damping...

To risk oversimplifying, springs hold the truck in the air, shocks hold the tires to the ground. The quickest way to obtain a "smooth" ride is to lower air pressures in the tires. The second is to reduce the shocks compression rate. In my experience a "rough ride" complaint is typically one of "feeling every bump". Your first defense against bumps and uneven road surfaces is in the sidewall of the tires. The second is the compression damping of the shocks. Unless you are running an extraordinarily harsh spring for your vehicle weight I'd leave them be or run stock springs.

Any sort of buck boarding or washing around is due to an excessively soft compression rate shock for the spring rate. The shock cannot adequately control the springs desire to bounce. Ever drive a car with blown shocks or struts? Same effect...

I'd try 1 shock at first as a test... The sensa tracs are "velocity sensitive" they have a tapered groove in the shock body IIRC. I was selling them hand over fist when they first came out.

I run 900lb linear rate springs on my race car which was originally equipped with approx 350lb progressive rate springs. No tire or shock combo will fix my ride quality nor would I want them to. My example is extreme to make my point.
 
#8 ·
yo,
Replacement Springs Review in a 96; "I posted a while back asking about stock replacement springs for the Bronco that would ease some of the abuse we endure. I decided to attack the front coils first since they were cheaper and I thought they would be easier to replace than the leafs (at least they were on my '72). Well, a few skinned knuckles and 3 hours later I have new MOOG® 820 model stock replacement springs installed. The first side wasn't easy to remove or replace, but they second side only took 30 minutes after I learned the process. I have a 5.8L engine and the MOOG® product spec says the 820's are designed for the additional weight of the 5.8L vs. the 5.0L. They designed the 818's for the 5.0L. If you decide to do this I will give you a few pointers on the removal and installation. If you are running a front anti-sway bar then you should unbolt the frame mounts on both sides before you remove the tires. This will allow for the additional axle droop needed to drop the coil springs out of the mounts. Also you must disconnect the shocks to also allow for the additional droop. You will need a 1-1/8" socket to remove the lower hold-down nut. A regular socket will do, but a deep socket will work better. Clean out all the dirt and mud around that lower hold-down nut and spray with penetrating oil a few days before the attempt. I think they contracted Hercules to tighten them at Ford. Either use coil spring compressors to shorten the springs for removal and installation or use a hi-lift jack to raise the frame up a bunch. The 820's are an improvement over the stock springs. I won't say that it rides like a newer Ford pickup, but it is much better. The 820's take off the biting thump that the stock springs provide when running over anything larger than an acorn. The variable rate MOOG® 820's are soft enough to absorb that bite, but they don't sag when you roll into a corner. I can say that I would recommend them especially for the price. I found them for $68 including shipping on Amazon. Plus $9.98 for a deep 1-1/8" socket still is a cheap install. They raised the front end up 1-5/8" but that was probably more due to tired front springs than the new springs being taller. I have a feeling installing the 818's with the 5.8L would arrive at the same ride height, but I don't know for sure. All in all I would recommend the investment if you enjoy retaining your dental fillings. No pictures...sorry." miesk5 Note; it is MOOG® CC820 Variable Rate Coil Spring and still available via AMAZON @ $73.52 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping as of OCT 2012; it fits 80-96 Bronco 5.0 & 5.8 w/o DUAL SHOCK OPTION; as well as many trucks & vans
Source: by scottmcwms (Scott) at FSB http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=132713
 
#15 ·
Yo, I would say not bec most dealerships won't touch or install non-Ford parts; my local dealership never would ubtil it changed ownership & new Serv Mngr would install WIX filters instead of MC brand to save customers' $

Ford used to provide for FREE, a Build Sheet (Ford 999 Report) in letter format showing;
original build date, optional equipt., axle ratio, paint color, etc.;
Miesk5 Note on 30 AUG 2011 called Ford @ 1-800-392-3673 & Jeff said all have been transferred to Helms and this BS would now be provided by HELMS for a fee.

Helms charges $17.00 for a "Basic" Sheet and $48.00 for a "Deluxe" sheet. Helms is Ford's Official Publisher for Ford EVTMs, Owner Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, etc.
Basic Build Sheet Item# 39415 Vehicle build sheets are available for 1967 and newer cars and trucks up to F550 and 2002 and newer F650-750.

Using Ford Motor Company internal databases,
A basic build sheet will detail your vehicle's "as built" options: Model year •Manufacturing plant name and location; Body style; Build date; Engine size; Consecutive unit serial number; Transmission description; Rear axle ratio and description (locking or non-locking); Tire size; Exterior paint color and code; Interior trim color and code; Interior options; Any other option information available. You must enter in the VIN number of the vehicle you want a build sheet for on the next screen. Requests for vehicles older than 1990 may take up to 6 weeks. Price: $17.00;

Deluxe Build Sheet Item# 39416, Vehicle build sheets are available for 1967 and newer cars and trucks up to F550 and 2002 and newer F650-750. Using Ford Motor Company internal databases, each build sheet is personalized and drafted on Ford stationery signed by Ms. Elena Ford. These letters are a great addition to any car enthusiast's collection. In addition to the basic build sheet, the deluxe build sheet will include all available production figures. You must enter in the VIN number of the vehicle you want a build sheet for on the next screen. Requests for vehicles older than 1990 may take up to 6 weeks. Price: $46.00; Item is shipped from manufacturer and may take additional time for delivery. Please allow 2-3 weeks for delivery."
Source: by Helms at shopfordgear.com
 
#13 ·
yo

Spring Codes in a 96
by FORD

The code set (two numbers, or several letters, or a number and letter) above COLOR identify the exterior paint color (two sets of codes designate a two-tone).
The digits under WB designate the wheelbase in inches.
The letter or digit under BRAKE TYPE designates the truck brake type.
The letters and/or numeral under BODY designate the interior trim, seat and body type.
The transmission installed in the vehicle is identified under TRANS by an alphabetical code.
A letter and a number or two numbers under AXLE identify the rear axle ratio.
The letters and/or numerals under TAPE designate the external body side tape stripe code.
The spring usage codes for the vehicle are identified under SPRING.
A two-digit number is stamped above DSO to identify the district that ordered the vehicle. If the vehicle is built to special order (Domestic Special Order, Foreign Special Order, Limited Production Option, or other special order), the complete order number will also appear above DSO.

miesk5 Note. the wheelbase in inches is shown in lower left block below
& Below;
District Special Order (DSO)

more on 1996 Bronco VEHICLE CERTIFICATION LABEL (VC LABEL) CODES

more on Springs @ http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197975
 

Attachments

#16 ·
Cool one, Miesk. :)
J4D looks like to me the same as "B" front springs in '91...
I'm guessing the softest since J springs are top of the list.

The towing package on mine didn't add stiffer springs but
did add an anti-sway bar at least in the back but it came
with one in the front too. Mine also came with some extra
wiring for trailer lights and brakes but not sure right now
what else.

Just not springs is all I'm pretty sure of since mine were
the softer springs too and it's got the full tow package.

The Reese hitch (I took off and gave away ;) part of the
tow package too?

Alvin in AZ
 
#20 ·
I will definately give that a try first.

It seems like alot of people suggest going with just one shock compared to two. Would the compression rate of the spring, or the fact that each side has two shocks, have the most influence in a smoother ride?
 
#21 ·
As in my longwinded post all else being stock, the shocks will. It also depends on your idea of a harsh ride. If your ride seems jouncy and stiff it's most likely spring. If your ride seems harsh over sharp to medium size bumps drop air pressure then pull a shock.

I'm only saying that pulling the shock takes little to no time and is free.
 
#25 ·
Ok, i measured .868 on the coils. I wire brushed them first but it didn't look like it really needed it.

What i'm finding out about variable rate springs (which is what i wanted) are that they don't work with the quad shock suspension. The spring is too big in diameter and will rub one of the shocks. I could always go with just 2 shocks, but in a way i also want to keep all 4 shocks too. The AC Delco tech line told me that the 45H1024 is the replacement for mine. But it is a .720 diameter wire. Would this even work with mine if my original is in the .850 ballpark?

Is there any way to find out what the stock J code coilspring (my original) wire diameter is? .

Damn, i'm having a harder time finding the right coilspring replacement than i thought i would. I want a softer spring but don't want to sacrafice the ride height that i have now.

I did have Jeffs Bronco Graveyard get back to me and found that their replacement spring is made by Elgin Industries and is a 337lbs per inch spring. I'll have to get back to them to find out the wire diameter.
EDIT-- The coil spring sold at Jeffs Bronco Graveyard is not for the quad shock setup. As a matter of fact, all their springs are for the single shock suspensions. No mention of a dual shock spring at all.

Man, i want to find a good replacement spring for under $100 that would work with the quad shock setup and not have to buy a Ford original part. I'm betting that would be a $200+ set.
 
#26 ·
Buy stock normal springs, remove that airbag setup and pull one shock. You've got aftermarket Rancho shocks which are probably stiffer than OEM. If you need to see both shocks for whatever reason drill it out (carefully) so it's a non damping unit.

Quite frankly you want your cake and eat it too. Quad shocks, airbags etc do not promote a good ride. As a side note what pressures are you running?

Damn I hate California but I hate rusty cars more I guess...
 
#27 ·
The airbags have huge holes in them so they have never been used in the 10 years i have owned this bronco. They just still reside in the springs.

The Rancho shocks that i have (can't remember which model) where just about the exact same feel as the stock shocks they replaced.

I guess the only reason i wanted to stay with the quad shocks were because i already have all 6 replacements waiting to be put on. I guess i could send a couple back.

As far as staying with the quad shocks i have found that Moog, Raybestos, and Eaton do not make springs that work with dual shock setups. Maybe they would work using only 1 shock. Is the rear shock the closest one to the spring, and the one that gets taken out? But my spring has somewhere around a .850 diameter, and so far all those replacements are in the .720 range. That sounds like alot of difference. I want to lose the stiffness but don't want to lose any ride height.

I don't run off road. It's all street miles. So i run about 35lbs. Sometimes 30lbs if i hate feeling every crack in the road.
 
#28 · (Edited)
...my spring has somewhere around a .850 diameter...
Is that a guess or did you measure 'em?
If you measured 'em then there it is! :)

Just get some new springs from Ford, mine are .715". {found it ;}

Stock springs were .675", got those here and they look like new.
{at some point I might put them back on the Bronco}

Don't let the "B" and "J" spring designations fool you, Ford changes
stuff like that! :/ And the "notice"? ...it's in the new Shop Manual. ;)

-----------------------------

If you just guessed at the wire size then shame on you for farting
around. Do this like you mean it, a plastic .001" reading dial caliper
is cheap and you'll use it for a bunch of other things. Stop guessing.
It'll save you both time and money to actually measure what you
got now. Because you can compare to what's stock and then figure
out what you want to switch to. :)

{I have an old stainless steel Craftsman .001" vernier caliper}
{made in Japan and it's kicked-measurement-butt for 30 years!}

Alvin in AZ
ps-
"I want to lose the stiffness but don't want to lose any ride height." -B36
The ride height won't change much from one spring to another, -if-
they're all Ford springs (for you application)!

The reason those two springs ain't the same length is because it
takes a taller-spring to equal the "ride height" of the stiffer spring
after they are installed and under pressure.
See it now? :)

pps- Now days Ford uses two different sized spacers to make the
trucks the same from left and right in the front. The passenger side
is "supposed to be" heavier because the engine and transmission is
set over to that side. Back when my '75 F150 was made Ford used
two-different-springs! :/ Well it all looked good in theory but didn't
work out like that in practice.

"the difference between theory and practice is:
In theory, there's no difference between 'em.
In practice, there is."
-paraphrased from some guy's Usenet signature line LOL :)

My pickup never set straight until after I put two equal springs on it.
Almost "equal" but the difference is just manufacturing tolerance...
.740" vs .745"
The stiff one in the picture is .725" and it was on the driver's side.
(I remember those numbers! LOL ;)
 
#29 ·
Sorry, didn't mean to make it sound like i was guessing. I used a good Mitutoyo digital caliper calibrated from work. It only sounded like i was guessing because i wasn't sure how much of that measurement may have been from dirt/rust buildup. But i did wire brush it real good before i measured.

If i end up going with a Ford spring, will the wire diameter be the determining factory as far as spring rate? Just trying to figure out which one may be a good choice for a better ride without going too soft. And it's looking like i may just follow everybodys recommendation on using only one shock.
 
#31 ·
I used a good Mitutoyo digital caliper calibrated from work. It only sounded
like i was guessing because i wasn't sure how much of that measurement
may have been from dirt/rust buildup. But i did wire brush it real good
before i measured.
YeeeHaaaw! We got that sucker by the balls now! :)
.025" either way from friggin big ol' .850" don't matter. ;)

{found my new springs' size .715", they are off an F150 Super Cab}

If i end up going with a Ford spring, will the wire diameter be the
determining factory as far as spring rate? Just trying to figure out which
one may be a good choice for a better ride without going too soft.
Yeah, "wire size=rate" is how it worked with factory springs in the past
but in your year, Ford might have added variable rate springs? >shrug<

But still the way they tend to work-it is, a-certain-single-rate-spring will
equal a-certain-variable-rate-spring (at some level) and you have a choice
between the two.

You are so used to it being like a snow-plow-truck without its plow...
you might consider the next step up from the softest spring? LOL :)

So is there evidence of it having had a snow plow on it? :)

As far as the "DSO springs" number, that needs to be looked into further.
Here's my tag and it wasn't shipped off to another manufacturer for
heavier springs...


DSO has two meanings, one don't matter and the other can make a big
difference. The one that can make a big difference is if the Bronco went
-directly- to another manufacturer for a snow plow (and heavy springs to
match) to be installed (for example). And when serviced and/or repaired
they're supposed to contact Ford for the special parts needed, if any.

The other DSO meaning is just the district number the dealership is in that
ordered it is all. in my Bronco's case 71 = Los Angeles.

AV and AT are color codes.

And it's looking like i may just follow everybodys recommendation on using
only one shock.
At this point I believe you're gonna want to use four front shocks after the
first pair you put on get broken-in good. Just my experience. Rancho 5000's
aren't harsh IME.

Alvin in AZ
 
#33 ·
No evidence of it having a plow on the front. I have owned it for 10 years and it had 25000 miles on it when i got it from a coworker. I do remember him saying the factory did have to replace the tranny after about 20000 miles for some reason or another.

Looks like i will stop at the Ford dealership tommorrow and talk springs with them.

If i have to pay dealership prices, i wonder if it would be worth it to go with a set of leveling springs? I want to put 33's on and maybe a couple extra inches in the front wouldn't hurt.
 
#34 ·
No evidence of it having a plow on the front.
Yeah, it couldn't have been that easy. ;)

Looks like i will stop at the Ford dealership tomorrow and talk springs with them.
Cool. :)

Don't expect to learn anything unless you just-happen to talk to a guy that's
"into" springs. :) The rest will either guess (lie) or give you "vague answers"
since they don't know. Only ever gotten those last two ways myself, good
luck. ;)

Alvin in AZ
 
#37 ·
Engineering #
F4TA 5310 JA

Part #
F4TZ 5310 B

After talking with a Ford parts department manager that i have seen there for at least 10 years, i find that Ford no longer offers stock Bronco coil springs anymore. He said they are obsolete. Great.

Looks like my only choice now might be to use another spring which most likely was made for a single shock setup, and then go with that single shock. And hope i get the same ride height that i had before.
 
#38 ·
Engineering #
F4TA 5310 JA

Part #
F4TZ 5310 B

After talking with a Ford parts department manager that i have seen
there for at least 10 years, i find that Ford no longer offers stock
Bronco coil springs anymore. He said they are obsolete. Great.

Looks like my only choice now might be to use another spring which
most likely was made for a single shock setup, and then go with that
single shock. And hope i get the same ride height that i had before.
Yeah, he's a real sweet heart! :/
Did he show his "O" face when he said that to you? xD

That's what they say when they don't want to be bothered with your
parts request on an older vehicle.

There's and old Ford parts guy on a couple other Ford forums and that's
what he claims they are doing when you hear the "O" word. He finds
"obsolete" parts for guys all the time on those other forums. No kidding.

He has a way to do it quicker and easier that us, but we can get close
enough to the same results he gets if we work at it.

If it were me, I'd go used parts since the first spring I found was $150! :/
Ford made more of their money in parts than in car sales.

I'd rather go to a dentist than a Ford dealership.
The people in a dentist office will be glad to see me. :)

What's the part number for the springs one step stiffer than "B" springs?

Alvin in AZ
 
#40 ·
Does anyone have a 94-96 with a 5.8 and factory installed J springs?
If so, could someone measure and post the compressed (installed) spring height taken from their bronco. That info might help me to identify the (correct aftermarket) spring for bronc36, if he's interested. The generous offer by wdford is noted, just trying to help out. Thanks.
 
#41 ·
Does anyone have a 94-96 with a 5.8 and factory installed J springs?
If so, could someone measure and post the compressed (installed)
spring height taken from their bronco.
My question...
Is there any real difference between the '94-'96 Bronco's and the rest of 'em
from '80 in the "ride height"? That's "ride height" as Ford defines it and/or
stock spring compressed length, any difference?

Alvin in AZ
 
#42 ·
Any Difference? I can't say for certain.
NPD catalog only lists 2 springs for 80 on up (broken into rages of 80-89 and 90-96), however, in the 80-89, the listing indicates 'All, excl dual shock option'.

No such exclusion on 90-96.

The compressed height of a factory installed J will help me to identify which spring to use to restore Bronc36's factory ride height and quality.

Edit: 94-96 used the same Ford part number for that spring. I have a 94 (5.8/J4d/quad shock) and installed the afforementioned ford spring 3 years ago. I've been looking into this since that time. The compressed height would provide independent reference that supports (or refutes) any conclusions that I could share.
 
#43 ·
Thanks for all the help so far guys!

I still haven't decided which way i'm going to go here yet but wondered if i went with a set of Superlift leveling springs, if the new in box shocks i have for a stock suspension would still work with these springs? Would i want adjustable alignment bushings or set rate bushings for when it is aligned?

Superlift told me their 117 springs for a 96 Bronco are progressive, with a .750 wire diameter and a 400lb spring rate. I think i'm leaning this way at the moment.
 
#44 ·
Bronc36, the original J rate was 366 lbs/in or 337 lbs/in depending on which of the 2 is correct (see below).
And I believe you can get very close to original J with conventional replacement springs.
The exclusion for dual shock setup seems to originate from the following general
explanation (sorry no source to cite):
'Some customers have reported complaints of fitment issues relating to spring rub against the [forward, if I remember right] shock'
It is not due to a certainty of fitment failure.
I'm pretty sure the factory J was 366 lbs/inch and the ford obsoletion saved you a ton of grief. My pair of 5310-B springs arrived and were different from the undamaged original J. I tried 2 dealers, both had my VIN and were certain the replacement was correct.
Any Moog, Husky, Elgin, etc will be variable rate which will improve ride quality over ford OEM, which I believe were fixed rate (if I'm wrong, someone correct me).
BTW, the ID of the spring is 4 inches and with the .72 or .75 in diameter, you'll clear the shocks.
 
#45 ·
I'm pretty sure the factory J was 366 lbs/inch and the ford obsoletion saved
you a ton of grief. My pair of 5310-B springs arrived and were different from
the undamaged original J. I tried 2 dealers, both had my VIN and were certain
the replacement was correct.
For cryin' out loud. :/

Having my '75 F150 taught me not to like Ford-Parts departments later on.
Taught me not to like Ford dealerships first see, that started in Feb of '75. ;)
YMMV? ;)

I typed out all the sorted details on FTE (ford-trucks.com).

--------------------------------

Too bad you're in the rust belt it'd be cheap and easy to get some springs
from the wrecking yard and try 'em then go get another set (using a .001"
reading caliper) if later on, you had -any- doubts about them being what
you wanted. :)

The variable rate springs just might be the thing to do anyway?

The lower spring seat's got a lot of slop in it, I bet a guy could make any
spring (that's reasonably-close to original) work with 4 shocks. :) The base
of the spring appears to want to scoot forward in its lower seat.

I slipped 3/4" heater hose over the bottoms of the springs on the Bronco
and so far they're holding up better than I figured they would.

3/4" fuel hose I -know- can take it. LOL :) BTDT

WD's springs'd be a good-and-cheap way to go, just have 'im measure the
wire size first, is all I'd ask of 'im, if it was me. :)

Alvin in AZ
 
#47 ·
I live in the rust belt, so usually i have to replace more parts than normal.

So, for the guys that have put new springs on their Broncos, What extra parts usually need replaced with the springs?

I can assume the upper retainer could be reused, and definately will get new coil spring insulators. But would the spring mounting stud be too rusted to be reused? Or would it possibly need a longer stud to work with a leveling coil? Or could i just put a new insulator on the old stud and be fine?

The coil spring towers definately look rusted. I can even see layers of rust. I just hope they are not too far gone.

Just tryin to get all my ducks in a row before ordering.
 
#49 ·
Thanks for the good thoughts Alvin. Doing what I can to help, I hope. I'm not registered at FTE though (hope I'm not borrowing someone else's screename).

Bronc36, here's some thoughts:
If you haven't already removed the lower retaining nut, soak the nut/stud for a few days in your favorite penetrating oil before attempting to remove it. Clean the threads with a wire brush or compressed air too. The torque spec for the nut is 52-74 lb-ft (1994, should be same for 96). The tricky part for me was getting the socket and extension inside the spring for removal. A good 1/2 in breaker bar or rachet setup should do for removal.
Work it off slowly and carefully.
The actual condition of the stud will dictate weather or not it needs to be replaced. Assuming it survives the nut removal, and isn't rusted badly, it should be ok for re-use. The torque spec for the stud is 240 to 260 ft-lbs (again 1994)
which exceeds my 1/2" torque wrench capacity by a mile. Point is, I would have had to pass off getting that one torqued to a mechanic if I had replaced it (which I didn't have to).
I re-used my lower insulators, they weren't in bad shape. But it's a cheap part, no harm at all in replacing them.
I cleaned up, re-painted, and re-installed the upper retainers. If yours look good, go ahead and re-use them.
If it's in good shape, re-use the lower spring retainer. And lift springs shouldn't require a taller stud. I think taller studs would be used with the lift/leveling spacers, and I recall sometimes those kits come with a stud extension anyway.

My spring replacement was initiated by a blowout of the pass side bracket (on pavement, about 30 mph in a slight turn). It was the result of a vertical fracture ahead of the axle and sheared top to bottom. The forward shock and attached bracket piece shot into and dented the plastic inner fender (small dent). The RS5000 aft of axle held everything together for about 20 miles of driving (I checked roadside when I heard the noise, but the tire obscured the damage, which I fully discovered when I returned home).

Lots of rust on my brackets, and it probably contributed to the blowout.
And my pass spring was broken at the top.
I guess I'm suggesting replacing your shock/spring brackets even though it may be pricey. With the work you're already doing, it is good insurance on not having to get into it again until or unless you decide to lift the front end.

Some of the rivets are a pain, in my case, one had to be heated to a bright glow, then punched with an air chisel, but the rest were pretty standard grind and punch to remove. If I remember right, all of the rivets are replaced with 1/2" grade 8 hardware (maybe 7/16", whatever fills the rivet hole).
I rustproofed both brackets with a layer of fiberglass (especially wrapping edges and full coverage on the top side mud trap which is above where the coil rests- fiberglassed the back side too. Then primer, 2 coats, then urethane enamel gloss black. Looks kind of weird with the texture under the paint, but holding up fine otherwise.
Also painted the springs and the metal portion of the brake hose (fixed to the rear of the bracket) with the same setup. PPG Kondar primer, and Dupont 99s black with Dupont gloss hardener. If I did it today, I'd use epoxy primer, and (if the color were available) Valspar tractor restoration enamel with their hardener (it's just a really good paint that's inexpensive and used to be available at Tractor supply).
The last mountain from your mole hill is the brake lines. The mounting interface on rear of each shock bracket for the brake hose (leading to each caliper) on my truck was rusted too badly to even disassemble properly. I just ended up cutting the steel brake lines inboard of the connection.
That will take you to either splicing a short repair between the existing line and the new hose mounted to the bracket or basically replacing the lines from the ABS HCU to both front wheels. I did the full replace, the various bends can be tricky, especially at the HCU (look just forward of your drivers side shock bracket, above and along the frame rail). Know that if you replace lines near the bracket (which you'll most likely decide is easiest to do with the bracket removed), that you'll be facing that tight fit near the HCU during reassembly of the drivers side bracket. If you get into the full replacement, diagram on paper (before disassembly) where each of the 3 steel lines goes. One at a time would be best, but you may say to heck with that if another line starts interfering with your efforts (thus the diagram).
Sorry for the lengthy post and headache inducing details. I hope its helping you sort it all out.
 
#51 ·
Wow. I had talked to a tech at Superlift earlier today and they said their 2" leveling springs were progressives. But then i started seeing pics of their springs being a static rate spring so i called them back just to be sure and a different tech told me they were not progressive.

So i talked to two different techs at Superlift, and i got two different answers.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top