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Buying rebuilt 351w what do you think pictures included

8K views 36 replies 16 participants last post by  Coleaclark 
#1 ·
Hey all what do you guys think about this motor?? $$ 1,499.00





Rebuilt Small Block Ford 351 Windsor Short Block 0 Miles
All Parts Jetwashed & Shot Blasted Clean
Block - Bored & Honed + .030, Lifter Bores Honed, Painted
Crank - Shot Peened, Resized, & Polished
Rods - Shot Peened & Resized
Cam - Custom Ground Performance
Heads - Performance 3 Angle Valve Job, Bronze Guides, Big Block Springs
New Parts Include - Pistons, Rings, Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings Timing Set, Cam, Gaskets, Oil Pump
 
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#2 ·
Depends on the pistons? and the rest of the parts used in the build
They should not have to re-size the rods, the crank is what should be ground smaller and then you use ovresized bearings for the now smaller crank.
Has it been balanced? Also what heads are on it?
Also I would ask for specific details on the cam, as if this is going in the '93 listed in your info you might run into issue there.
 
#3 · (Edited)
That's not an F4TE (Roller) Block. It's a D4 (1974) block. It will probably be just fine, Run fine, but you may already have the F4TE block in your truck without the roller cam. If they're asking for a core, I don't know if I'd want to part with that.

Definitely get the specs on the cam.....You want to make sure it will work with your SD setup.

They should not have to re-size the rods.....
That's called reconditioning the rods. They cut the cap down, then resize the hole. It doesn't change the length.
 
#4 · (Edited)
that makes sense on the rods. Same as line honing the mains only it just makes the hole round again instead of also aligning them to one another.
I looked at the pics some more and it looks like it has some ARP hardware on it too, so that makes it worth some more then just a stock rebuild, or would to me
 
#5 ·
well i talked with the guy today and he said that cam wont work but we can put a different one in that will so what cam should be a good choice and would this be a good motor? btw he does not care about my core i told him im putting it in a sand rail
 
#8 ·
Its not a bad motor. What are those heads? Do they have the ports in the rear for your smog pump? If not you will have to deal with removing that. About the best thing that you could do if you are wanting to have a motor ready for yours coming out is go to the junkyard and pull a 94-97 5.8 and rebuild it. Just pull the heads in the yard and see the condition of the cylinders. A 94+ block should be roller ready at minimum. Thats atleast what I am planning to do this summer.
 
#12 ·
Its not a bad motor. What are those heads? Do they have the ports in the rear for your smog pump?
Great question! I didn't even think about that being an older motor.
 
#11 ·
I am getting a bad feeling that this is not going to end well.

Do you have any engine building experience?

what is the reason the guy is abandoning his build?
 
#13 ·
Cole, All roller rockers are going to do on a stock motor are keep the valve guides from being side loaded when the rockers actuate the valves, therefore cutting a path in the valve guides {in the long run} and eliminating the stock fulcrum sukkage. Do not buy them for the 3 or 4 h.p. that you will get.... That timing chain kinda sucks too.... kinda.
 
#14 ·
You will never get 300hp out of that engine. To make that hp the heads would have to flow 40 hp over those stock heads you have there. Also the compression would have to be at least 9.1 or so and those pistons look like original stock dished pistons. With the increased hp you would also need upgraded exhaust over stock and upgrade in injectors and etc etc. You have there a good built stock engine with about 230 or 240 hp the way it looks.
 
#16 ·
Downsides:

2 piece rear seal 70's casting, nothing special or noteworthy here.
Rods are probably from a passenger car
Paint on oil pan rail and pump attaching point worries me. Typically you do NOT paint these.

Offer him $600, if he does not take it then walk away. Get an F4TE from the pick-n-pull and rebuild it yourself.
 
#18 ·
Downsides:

2 piece rear seal 70's casting, nothing special or noteworthy here.
Rods are probably from a passenger car
Paint on oil pan rail and pump attaching point worries me. Typically you do NOT paint these.

Offer him $600, if he does not take it then walk away. Get an F4TE from the pick-n-pull and rebuild it yourself.
In BOLD is a very good point also BigWheelz!!! This is a machined surface for a reason. The oil pump should bolt up metal to metal. Some people on here (including myself) do not use a gasket for the oil pump. It's much better to mount the pump without the gasket, and directly to the block. If the gasket was to blow, it's like having a hole in your straw from McDonalds......It's harder to pull the fluid up
 
#17 ·
I think you could do better.Maybe go to a wrecking yard and find a explorer with a 302 in it with the p40 heads. tell the pick-a-part guys you need some explorer 302 heads. And maybe you can get out of there cheap. Dont say you,re looking for P40 heads.Price will go up. And then find a newer F4TE block. Take it to a good machine shop for about $500 bucks for hot tank,bore,hone,surface block,new cam bearings,and freeze plugs.pick a good cam from the SD EFI cam choices on here.with new roller timing chain,and high pressure oil pump.And have the machine shop set you up with a new set of SRP pistons with a little more compression.Up from the stock 8.8 to 9.5:1 or so.I would think you could come close to the motor your looking at price wise.And be alot better foundation.Not to mention more HP.JMHO.
 
#20 ·
he also said he can rebuild mine if i wanted him to. Would that be a better options he said i could have him put what ever i want in it im only gonna have around $$1600 to play with and thats the only decent price i have found unless you guys can point me into the right direction or just have him rebuild my motor also this a machine shop he builds them
 
#21 ·
he also said he can rebuild mine if i wanted him to. Would that be a better options he said i could have him put what ever i want to in it
Typically speaking you can't pay someone to rebuild a motor and beat the cost/hp&tq and the warranty that comes with a crate motor.

A few years ago I replaced the motor in my 93, it was a 335hp/385tq and was $3,300 IIRC.
The link is for summit but there are better deals out there.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/crate-engines/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351
 
#22 ·
well if you have him build yours. try and find some P40 heads to put on it. Instead of the crappy stockers.And if he suggests new pistons.A bump in compression might be nice.Along with a nice cam upgrade.Like a comp cams 31-255-5 type of grind. But in flat tappet of course for your motor.
 
#24 ·
Does the camshaft look like it was put in without break in lube on it in this pic?
 
#25 ·
Does the camshaft look like it was put in without break in lube on it in this pic?
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

SURE DOES!!!!!

What kind of builder is this??? Is this in someone's garage or an engine shop?? :scratchhe
 
#26 ·
In 2008 I found a local shop that built me a stock 302/5.0 EFI long block for $1,575.00 with core exchange which I put in myself here in the garage, this was a 30 year old company who has appeared on Overhaulin a number of times.

I have several videos of it on my www.supermotors.net/17406 which you can check out, all dtd Aug -Sept. 2008. and the only thing I did was put on a new water pump and new reman injectors I got from PA Injectors in FLA, set of 8 for $125.00 shipped in 3-4 days no tax, no shipping using Google check out where i saved an etxra $10.00.

Originally I wanted to go with the stock 302 short block and GT 40 p heads but budget constraints and time prevented me from getting that done..


After the engine break in at around 1200 miles the engine had a bit of a melt down, short of it was the load bearing tolerences were probably off so they had to rebuilt the short block under warranty which took about 3 weeks but they stood by their product and made good, I even got a new harmonic balancer thrown in but I still laid out nearly $300.00 extra for sundries...PITA...

So far the engine has been running like a swiss watch, I change the oil and filter, 10W-30 with Motorcraft oil filter every 3000 miles without fail, I've got maybe 10-15k on it, my DD is very low now that I'm retired and I don't really go anywhere.

The point is find a local reputable build shop that's been around for a while so you can deal with them in person if something does go wrong, other then that I would consider rebuilding your original engine if it's up to the task, throw on some GT 40P heads and headers as suggested and enjoy the BKO


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#27 ·
well im not so sure what to do now i know i cant rebuild a motor .. and there seems to be some cons aabout this motor from what im hearing on this fourm ... hmm what to do what to do... Ford wants 2000 for a new motor not sure i wanted alittle more power than stock
 
#28 ·
Ultimatey what sold me on the Ford crate motor was quality, cost and warranty.
They would pay for anything required if it failed under warranty, even the
Labor costs associated with any R&R.

Personally I think the crate motors are a great choice.
You have warranty and you are in it not much more than what this was going to cost you. Maybe less since you don't know how much more it would cost you to finish what you are looking at here.
 
#32 ·
The one thing you don't want to happen is to go to all the trouble installing an engine only to have it run like shit or melt down, it's a royal PITA so I suggest you go the extra mile and pay for a decent new engine, either rebuild your original or crate which ever works best and then you won't have to worry whether the engine's going to be reliable or not......it's the worst frustrating feeling.....your call!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
#33 ·
Hey Cole I saw a core roller 351w on craigslist for $250.00 in our area (portland Ore.) or maybe vancouver WA. you could get.And bring it down here to Molalla to Kenny,s Machine and have him set ya up. He quoted me $500.00 for block clean,freeze plugs,cam bearings,bore,hone,surface block. If you find a good core though it might not need a bore just a quick hone, and no surface of block. So would be considerably cheaper. So find a core motor.http://corvallis.craigslist.org/pts/3526844823.html this guy has a non roller for $100.00 bucks for 2 of them I think.http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/3563108576.html and this guy has pistons and a cam .I have a good crank,rods,and stock pistons myself I would sell cheap out of a roller 351w.http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3567209980.html one in Aurora for $175.00 bucks.
 
#34 ·
Run away - I put together a 351W for far cheaper last year. I got a $100 F4TE shortblock off CL, brought it to my machinist and had him clean up the pistons and rods, polish the crank, do a .001 hone and assemble it with new bearings for around $650 assembled out the door. I then went to the junkyard and got a set of 96' Explorer heads and dropped those off for new valve seals and a valve grind job for another $150. Factory roller van/truck cam is pretty damn good and I finished my motor off with a 351W lower, B.C. adapter and a Mustang upper (to fit under an EB hood). This motor RIPS! Love the power-



That is a lot of cash for a questionable build - collect the parts yourself and get a better product and come out ahead.
 
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