School me on Air Compressors - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #81 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
no details on the neat-o little drain valve's? you're holding out on us man!
looks way easier to use and setup than the pipe and extended drain valve situation.
What details do you want? When you pull the cord it moves the stem sideways, breaking the seal and letting air/water out.
As with anything there's tons of different names making them, I just bought some cheap ones from a seller I use often on Ebay. They're only 9$ each so it doesn't cost me much to try them out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190755257332...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I knew I wanted something that I could tie a cord to so I wouldn't have to bend down, It was either this, a cheapo modified blow gun, or adding a spring to a 1/4 turn ball valve.

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post #82 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-09-2015, 02:45 PM
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had never heard or seen these before. perfect. thank you.

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post #83 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 03:02 AM
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pfun... just wanted to say thanks again. I got mine today and slapped it in immediately.
I LOVE IT!!! No more bending down on my knee's, getting nasty tank sweat/rust water on my arms or clothes, no more wondering if I should go through the hassle... no sir! Just walk over and pull the cord. This thing is a pleasure to use and because of that, I fully expect it to add years to the life on my compressor tank. Awesome!

Not the greatest pic... but you can clearly see the cable running from under the tank, to the pressure drain valve on the top/front. One cable... I can dry and drain the tank completely with a single tug. Obviously, I dig it.


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post #84 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 11:23 PM
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I think I have an addiction...
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post #85 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Ha nice. I've put together my setup in the new garage I'll have to take pictures and update here.
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post #86 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 01:29 AM
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I think I have an addiction...
put the compressor down and walk away slowly man!

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post #87 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 02:03 AM
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Will the 30 gallon kobalt be good for spray painting?
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post #88 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Kind of thrown together for now but works great. Two outlets one is oiled and one dry. I did put a extender on my tank drain you can see coming from the bottom.









Can't complain about the compressor it has done everything I throw at it. Found out Husky's air tools seam better than Kolbalt
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post #89 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Will the 30 gallon kobalt be good for spray painting?
I would get something with a little better run time. This compressor does the job but would constantly stay running with a spray and would only hold maybe 75-90 PSI on a constant spray. I would not look too much into tank size as I would build/run time. If you bought a air compressor that is built to run constantly and can keep a good PSI around 120 it really would not matter the tank size.
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post #90 of 105 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 10:57 AM
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Salt yours appears to be a single stage twin cylinder, For higher flow I think a dual stage V-twin would be the ticket.

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post #91 of 105 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 07:52 PM
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Painting is just as sensative to moisture as blasting. The longer the compressor runs, the more irregular your glow thru the gun is. If you use an HVLP gun at low pressure it might not be so bad. Moisture control is more important. For serious paint work a Bigger compressor is better, Higher pressure, higher volume of the tank, at least 2 regulators, will all keep the flow steady thru the whole spray. Devilbiss makes a Desiccant dryer just for painting. They are expensive though, but worth it. About $200. The desiccant can be dryed out and reused in an oven or on a camp stove outside. They have to be kept closed on both sides of the container when not in use or they will soak all the water out of the atmosphere. You may only get one spray job before you have to cook them again. It all depends on how much was removed in other filters up stream. This goes right before the gun hose.



The devilbiss replacement desiccant charges are like $90. If you dont want to pay that much you can get this off of ebay for $20.



You can re0fill the bag with these, and dry them out after you use them.

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post #92 of 105 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 08:19 PM
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Sulair industrial screw compressor.
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post #93 of 105 (permalink) Old 04-18-2016, 10:33 PM
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my set up

Ok, so i've plumbed all i am going to plumb, no leaks. Black pipe, one ball valve for a manual drain, water/oil separator, dryer, and then my flexzilla 1/2" hose. I can now run most things without worrying about too much water. I want to remove any doubts whatsoever and had purchased an aftercooler with the compressor when i bought it, but now i have a few questions you guys can help out with hopefully.

First off, i am running from the tank outlet to the wall/black pipe with a 250psi 1/2", 6 ft. rubber air hose. As i was looking around to get hints for installing the air cooler i was wondering if i could use a similar line to go from the compressor to the the aftercooler and aftercooler to tank. My other options are buying copper like it has and bending it or possibly buying 3/4" ss flex hose for the inlet and outlet.

Next, i haven't decided how i am going to mount it on the back of the compressor. I know i am going to try and use the compressor wheel for cooling, so vertical or horizontal on the back. Vertically i could use rubber pads to cut down on vibrations and maybe something like a tie down strap. Just an idea, but it sounds cheesy to me too. The cage is riveted together, so pulling it apart would be a pain.







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post #94 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 05:50 PM
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Ok, i finally welded some brackets/legs from the ears of the aftercooler to the squirrel cage on the compressor. Everything is plumbed and set, working correctly. The temperature coming out of the pump is 260-270, and at the output of the aftercooler i am seeing around 95-100. 150 degree drop is nice. Now here is the rub: it is condensing at the aftercooler like crazy, so now i think i need a drip leg/water trap directly after the output of the aftercooler. Perhaps in a couple of weeks when i am feeling froggy, but for now it can push the water back into the tank. Between the tank, the water trap in the black pipe, and the desiccant dryer i can't imagine seeing any water at the end of the line. I am now set to run my plasma cutter and start building a welding table. I'll come back and add some pics when i get time tonight.
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post #95 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 01:46 AM
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sorry I missed this dd. where's the rest of the pics? I see the red flex line and I see the radiator type cooler, actually 2 of them... and then I see some line but not how they're connected.

hope it works as well for you as my hokey ass setup has for me!
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post #96 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 08:31 AM
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You shouldn't use rubber hose for those connections. The outlet from the pump gets really ****in hot, which is why almost every manufacturer uses hardline and some have fins on them. Usually the tank is used to dissapate the heat which is why the hardline ends there but your aftercooler setup will be doing that now, you need a hardline or at least stainless steel braided line thats rated to take alot of heat. Most Installs Ive seen use copper line and compression or flare fittings. Don't forget a drain at the lowest point of the aftercooler to catch all the condensation, otherwise it will blow it back into the tank which defeats the whole purpose.
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post #97 of 105 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 09:50 AM
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The rubber hose goes from the tank to the wall/ black pipe setup. The hose from the pump to the inlet of the intercooler is rated for 700 degrees and 5000 psi or something nutty. I am well under the specs on that. The industrial hose on the outlet of the intercooler is rated for crazy psi and like 200 or 300 degrees, i can't remember, but since the air temp is around 95 degrees at the outlet, i'm well within specs there as well.

https://goo.gl/photos/vX4o7V5Y9djy6Jcv7

There should be some photos. Quality is questionable. Shaky this morning i guess and limited space. I appreciate your input Pfun41, but the point was to get the air to condense prior to the first water trap. It does, and now the tank is the biggest water trap. I agree that i need a water trap at the intercooler outlet, but i'm done plumbing for a bit. When i get the wall covered behind the compressor i will get a bit of black pipe and another hydraulic hose line to plumb in a water trap before going to the tank. The air tank outlet for draining water is woefully small and a pain in the ass to access, even up on hockey pucks. I'll have to do something about that at some point as well. I am going to empty it, drill it out and add a larger fitting so i can remote the drain to outside the building i think. Again, future work not happening any time soon. I have it up and running now and dry as a bone at the check valve/water trap prior to my desiccant dryer, so good for now.
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post #98 of 105 (permalink) Old 09-04-2016, 09:19 PM
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My compressor made a god awful noise but still ran. Bye bye fan.
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post #99 of 105 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 12:32 AM
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post #100 of 105 (permalink) Old 09-07-2016, 01:02 AM
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nice little vid there pfun. something that steve guy should have seen.

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