Powder coating - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Powder coating

I bought a powder coating system from Eastwood and really like it. I powder coated my rear seat brackets and springs and they turned out really well. The bad part is the only black I had was a sparkly one that no one will see. I am going to do my air cleaner in it though. I will post some pics tomorrow.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 10:58 PM
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I've done some powered coating. The draw back to me, is the mess.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-21-2016, 11:11 PM
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The draw back for me is the oven.

Some men see things the way they are and ask why? I see things that never were and say why not? - Robert F. Kennedy

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 01:53 AM
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Which one did you get? I just ordered the dual voltage one at work. Ovens we have covered.

We send a lot of stuff out, I'm hoping to keep the smaller parts in house instead. If it works out I'll probably step up to a higher power system.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 09:52 AM
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Draw Bach for me is as soon as it chips it peels like scotch tape on cardboard.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 05:11 PM
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moved to the right area.

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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The draw back for me is the oven.
Hoping to build an oven for bigger things.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Which one did you get? I just ordered the dual voltage one at work. Ovens we have covered.

We send a lot of stuff out, I'm hoping to keep the smaller parts in house instead. If it works out I'll probably step up to a higher power system.
I have the dual voltage gun.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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moved to the right area.
Thank you.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-22-2016, 11:47 PM
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Draw Bach for me is as soon as it chips it peels like scotch tape on cardboard.
Sadly I feel like there's nothing out that can completely combat rust. Hopefully in the near future. I plan to Line X as much stuff as possible but that's even not a perfect solution.

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 12:49 AM
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Draw Bach for me is as soon as it chips it peels like scotch tape on cardboard.
I don't know the details of your experience with powder coating, but I have been doing it professionally for the last 30 years and the only way it will peel off like that is if the part is not properly prepped or it was under baked. A chip won't result in such failure unless as noted above. Any exposed metal left unprotected will be a source for rust to creep underneath but it takes a very long time and moves very slowly if the surface was properly prepared and the part fully baked.

shustring, good luck with your set up. The best surface prep is a good sandblasting with FINE sand, silica or aluminum oxide... glass bead is ok but does not etch as well. If you use too coarse of a media the powder will not fully cover the metal and you might as well be coating over rust. One other important tip, the thicker the part the longer you will need to bake it. Depending on the powder you typically need 10 to 20 minutes at 350 to 400 degrees. That's peek metal temperature not how long the part is in the oven.

If you have any questions, feel free. Really looking forward to your results.
Allan
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 10:15 AM
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I found that anything that has a seam like wheels or frames is where it starts to go. I had a lot of stuff done many years ago that were blasted white with medium slag then went right in the oven at 450. It looks good for a while but moisture always seems to find its way underneath. I have a crapload of bike frames that are coated and never had a problem but they are not left outside and are kept clean and lubricated so rust never happens. My other issue is once damaged it is nearly impossible to repair, black or some other basic color you can touch up with a brush and paint and buff it out but a pearl or something like that you have to start over again. 3M seems to make the hardest coating and black gloss is the most resistant of the bunch, the lighter the color the less chip resistance, less pigment more durability. For me if I am leaving it outside and driving it a good industrial paint will outlast anything as long as you said it is cleaned and prepped properly.
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 10:30 AM
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Truck rim, coated 7 years ago soda blasted then medium grit Black Slag. The truck has never seen salt and only gets driven once in a while hauling landscape material. The rims were done by a guy who did professional coating for show cars featured in hot rod and covers of Summit and Jegs. 200 bucks a wheel.
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Last edited by 445 FE Bronco; 11-23-2016 at 10:37 AM.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 10:36 AM
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JD plow, blown off with medium grit not totally clean metal, epoxy structural primer and implement paint. We use this plow a LOT, 15 years and still looks like new with no touch up. 200 in paint and I did a two other plows too.
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Last edited by 445 FE Bronco; 11-23-2016 at 10:38 AM.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 08:21 PM
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Yea, steel rims with that deep joint are the worst. You can't clean it out properly and full coverage short of dipping is impossible.

That plow looks fantastic. Which brings up your point on cost. It's just not feasible to do large parts yourself with powder and the cost to pay someone else isn't worth it if you can finish it yourself with an automotive or industrial finish. Personally, if I didn't work in a large powder shop I would be using quality wet coatings as you do. I don't have the money to throw around to pay someone to finish my parts in powder or liquid for that matter.
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 08:29 PM
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I have been accused of using a paint brush and roller on my tractors from time to time LOL. I used some hardener and a HVLP on the plow.
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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 09:32 PM
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Like Bronco AL said, I think the key is prep. If you have a casting line, or parting seam, that all needs to be ground down smooth. A good bead blaster with good media and very dry air gives you a fantastic surface. You just need to clean it up and powder coat it immediately. Just make sure you get ALL of the blast dust off of the part. Eastwood makes some stuff that you spray on that coats a freshly blasted surface with a layer of zinc that might be helpful as well. The main thing is to get it as clean as possible.

When you get some parts done, post some pictures of the process.

I saw some good home made ovens on the internet. You can literally make them out of anything. Cardboard and tin foil. Foil covered insulation boards, anything. Then use one or more electric heaters inside. Pre heat the box for an hour or so then put your big parts in as quickly as possible.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-23-2016, 09:52 PM
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Like Bronco AL said, I think the key is prep. If you have a casting line, or parting seam, that all needs to be ground down smooth.
Excellent point on seems and edges. Stamped steel and machined parts with really sharp edges are a common failure point for any coating. You just can't get a good film thickness on a knife edge, take the extra time to knock off those sharp edges and put a nice radius on them. Get rid of any weld spatter as well.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 05:17 AM
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I bought a powder coating system from Eastwood and really like it. I powder coated my rear seat brackets and springs and they turned out really well. The bad part is the only black I had was a sparkly one that no one will see. I am going to do my air cleaner in it though. I will post some pics tomorrow.
Any pics? Planning to buy a powdercoating system also so that I don't have to go to shops that offer quite expensive service.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 12-08-2016, 09:46 AM
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My opinion is that while it is a strong and durable finish, powder coat offers inferior protection once it has been penetrated. In my experience a chip or a scratch in powder coat will allow moisture to get between the coating and metal and spread fairly quickly compared to liquid coatings like the industrial paint mentioned above or POR15 type products.
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