Desert suspension 101 - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-05-2009, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanDS650X View Post
WOW...... ive spent the last 3 days just trying to cram my brain with all the years of test and tune you guys have in these broncos! Fantastic group here, cant wait to get my project up and running. my eyeballls hurt
seriously cant stop reading!
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 11:51 PM
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http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga..._link_tech.htm Link to a very informative page on 4-link I just ran across.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2012, 07:15 PM
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Good thread... Im looking to do more of this then slow mudding.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-18-2013, 01:19 AM
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Listen to Wilson I have learned a great deal from reading his lessons.

Keeping it low profile.....
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 08:25 PM
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Since I live in the desert, it would only make sense to build my bronco up as a pre runner . I'm still deciding what I want to do with the front end...The southwest performance bolt on DD looks sweet, and Threat makes seems to make some very reasonable C&T setups. Decisions, decisions...
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 02:29 AM
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Go with Threat, good dude and good parts
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-20-2014, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunit View Post
Paul

I have King 2.5" hydraulic bumps all the way around on my Bronco with Deaver 13 leaf race packs and two link in the rear. At a place like San Felipe last week the bumps got a pretty good workout. I was watching closely because I just upgraded from 2.5 to 3.0 4 tube bypasses. The bump stops definitely stop the big hits and although with the shock tuning I am not hitting as hard or as often, I still feel that they are important to have.

I raced for several years in both stock mini and stock full using Deaver race packs and two bypass shocks on each corner on both trucks. In those classes, hydro bumps are not allowed and I can tell you it was a huge disadvantage. I used to replace the blown out rubber stops every race, by the end all that would be left is the plate and bolt. I tried to set up the bypass shocks on the stock full to work as a bump with a ton of compression in the final part of the stroke but it was not nearly as smooth as having the hydro bumps.
do you have a build thread on your rig? would be interested in reading it and seeing what went into your build as i have an 84 and my plans for it happen to be along the lines of what youve done with yours.

2000 F250 XLT CCSB: 4x4, 7.3 DSL, GT38R, DP-Tuned, Banks Exhaust, AIS Intake, Ranchand, Bushwackers.

1984 Bronco: 302, C6, needs a ton of work.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 02:56 AM
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Bronco Info: 90 w/a 95 roller 351 auto, E40d, manual 1356, Warn hubs, skyjacker kit, fully locked
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Originally Posted by steveG View Post
As always Paul, you come to the table with much to offer. Those of you that haven't figured it out already, Paul is gracious enough to pass on years of experience and information that is almost always acquired the hard way.

Funny enough, though, I do disagree on a few things. I guess now that I agree with Bryan about something I have to move on to someone else... Ha!



I find all this very interesting Paul as it is exactly opposite of everything I have learned and practiced when shock tuning. This contradiction is nothing new as I have read a lot of Chris' posts and always thought the same thing when he's discussed shock valving.

I run very little rebound valving in all my shocks. Especially so with shocks mounted on the front of the beam. A friend of mine used to have a Ranger with HUGE (4+" in diameter) external bypass (all for compression) shocks that had no rebound control other than free-bleed holes. His rear wheels would rebound so fast that on a big jump the wheels would fall to full droop, top out the shock and actually bounce into compression once before staying topped out (all while still airborne). If you pay close attention, occasionally you'll see Trophy Trucks do this as well. The Ranger in point was incredibly fast and well-mannered over just about anything you threw it at. I think I have some video of this somewhere. I'll try to dig it up later.

While a bucking rear suspension is a shock or spring tuning problem in general and can happen for A LOT of reasons, I think people focus too much on controlling it by changing the rear valving alone. They figure that the problem is happening in the rear so it must originate in the rear. I was once caught up in this and was driving myself nuts trying to tune the "buck" out of one of my old toys. Until, someone opened my eyes and told me how to valve the front and rear to work TOGETHER! Holy shit did it hit me like freakin' train. I wasn't seeing the forest for the trees!

I thought the front worked great but the rear bucked on any bump over about a foot tall. The truth, I found, was that neither was working anywhere near as well as it could. I had been adding more and more rebound valving to the rear and it worked worse and worse every time I valved it. In the end, the solution was to remove most of the rebound valving in the rear AND the front. The idea was to make the front end push off bumps. Instead of keeping the body flat over big stuff I want the front end to come up, then the rear comes up to match it. The same basic principle applies to landings. The front end pushes up off the landing, the rear does the same then the truck settles to it's in-motion ride-height. Watch some of the Laughlin Leap videos and you'll see what I mean.


Good stuff here but it seems also contradictory. You mention almost no rebound is ideal, but then say the front should launch off of bumps, so that would require significant rebound. So what's the middle ground?

I only have experience revalving an old yota pickup I built with foa's front and back and some 7100 Billy's for a friends jeep.

How do you guys feel about using clear power steering fluid as the oil? I've always used it and the rigs handled well but I've never used legit shock oil to see if there's any difference in temps piston speeds etc. I called foa and that is what they recommended I use.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 01:04 AM
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Bueler?
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