As always Paul, you come to the table with much to offer. Those of you that haven't figured it out already, Paul is gracious enough to pass on years of experience and information that is almost always acquired the hard way.
Funny enough, though, I do disagree on a few things. I guess now that I agree with Bryan about something I have to move on to someone else... Ha!
The whole time I had my leaf setup I constantly was tightening up my rebound. Even with my C/O setup the rebound had to be tightened to get rid of rear kick in the whoops. The answer for leafs is $bypass$ shocks. More important for the short WB Bronco compared to a long WB pickup....
I was surprise how many 1 & other buggies had inadequate rebound. The result for the guys that did not know about the hole was the vehicles kicked up in the rear almost vertical on their front wheels.
I find all this very interesting Paul as it is exactly opposite of everything I have learned and practiced when shock tuning. This contradiction is nothing new as I have read a lot of Chris' posts and always thought the same thing when he's discussed shock valving.
I run very little rebound valving in all my shocks. Especially so with shocks mounted on the front of the beam. A friend of mine used to have a Ranger with HUGE (4+" in diameter) external bypass (all for compression) shocks that had no rebound control other than free-bleed holes. His rear wheels would rebound so fast that on a big jump the wheels would fall to full droop, top out the shock and actually bounce into compression once before staying topped out (all while still airborne). If you pay close attention, occasionally you'll see Trophy Trucks do this as well. The Ranger in point was incredibly fast and well-mannered over just about anything you threw it at. I think I have some video of this somewhere. I'll try to dig it up later.
While a bucking rear suspension is a shock or spring tuning problem in general and can happen for A LOT of reasons, I
think people focus too much on controlling it by changing the rear valving alone. They figure that the problem is happening in the rear so it must originate in the rear. I was once caught up in this and was driving myself nuts trying to tune the "buck" out of one of my old toys. Until, someone opened my eyes and told me how to valve the front and rear to work TOGETHER! Holy shit did it hit me like freakin' train. I wasn't seeing the forest for the trees!
I thought the front worked great but the rear bucked on any bump over about a foot tall. The truth, I found, was that neither was working anywhere near as well as it could. I had been adding more and more rebound valving to the rear and it worked worse and worse every time I valved it. In the end, the solution was to remove most of the rebound valving in the rear AND the front. The idea was to make the front end push off bumps. Instead of keeping the body flat over big stuff I want the front end to come up, then the rear comes up to match it. The same basic principle applies to landings. The front end pushes up off the landing, the rear does the same then the truck settles to it's in-motion ride-height. Watch some of the Laughlin Leap videos and you'll see what I mean.