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post #21 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 11:55 PM Thread Starter
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More on TrueTracs and ARB's...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PWMTN View Post
I originally set up my 96 for CO with trutrac front and it was fine. I never noticed any steering issues. The Jeep guys that used trutrac in the solid axle found it was not good for their rock crawling. Not sure they understood how it worked. A simple tap of the brakes can cause make it go unluck to lock when one wheel is slipping.

Trutrac was originally designed for dual purpose Jeep fronts, then made for many others. Its very popular for dual purpose as oppposed to a rock rig.
Anyway for the desert trutrac front is always the best all I need to do is pop it into 4wd when traction is limited.

Spool Ok in the desert but horible with slick roads. I wishied I had an ARB in the rear instead of a spool. ARBs are not available for 40S axles.
Paul
I've had a lot of fabricators and racers (Greg Foutz of F-150 Raptor R fabricator fame...amongst others) tell me to go with a spool in the rear, but that was back when I had plans for a 2WD F-150 (or a Super Duty F-250 2WD.) Now that I've committed to the Bronco, the TrueTracs are the logical choice. Thanks for the feedback.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda View Post
My TT is in the rear so I cant answer the sterring questions.

If you go that route for the front don't bother with the little ARB compressor. If you are planning OBA then use that or get a small CO2 bottle. Then use the ARB kit and pnematic switch from Powertank. This setup eliminates the "electrical" part of and ARB install.

Russell makes extended stainless air lines to replace the blue plastic line shipped with an ARB. So that covers the mid-travel issue.
I've never really thought about OBA, honestly. Maybe a remote tank that I can fill up ahead of time before hitting the trails. Always been concerned that the ARB's were fragile, having the air operation to engage...vice being fully automatic/internal. Just preconceived notions I guess. Appreciate the ideas.

Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007
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post #22 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-22-2009, 07:12 PM
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ARB

Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post
I've had a lot of fabricators and racers (Greg Foutz of F-150 Raptor R fabricator fame...amongst others) tell me to go with a spool in the rear, but that was back when I had plans for a 2WD F-150 (or a Super Duty F-250 2WD.) Now that I've committed to the Bronco, the TrueTracs are the logical choice. Thanks for the feedback.



I've never really thought about OBA, honestly. Maybe a remote tank that I can fill up ahead of time before hitting the trails. Always been concerned that the ARB's were fragile, having the air operation to engage...vice being fully automatic/internal. Just preconceived notions I guess. Appreciate the ideas.
======
The ARB blue plastic hoses are criticized a lot on the web. What I did was cover the blue plastic with vinyl tubing from the hardware store and used small bungies to keep the hoses up high out of harms way. I ran like this using a Powertank for pressure for 4 years in the desert with no issues.
I believe the ARBs are one of the strongest selectable units available.
Paul
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post #23 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Tear Down...

It's in the shop, and the tear down has begun...
First task involved taking out are the front beams (gotta' get them back to Autofab to avoid the core charge! ,) radius arms, axles, third member, etc.
Right front hub had water/rust in it...bad inner seal according to my fabricators. Leaning towards installing the F&R TrueTracs along with the 4.56:1 ring & pinions while everything is out. Just makes sense rather than paying twice to have it all torn out again and replaced.

Any suggestions on how to finish the beams, radius arms, shock tower, etc? Powder coating? Paint? Line-X? Other?

Got one of the original wheels/tires home for further inspection...only to find out that the wheels are Ford products! They have the Ford oval logo and "15x7.5 J DOT" stamped inside the back of the rim. I've never seen these on a Bronco or F-150 before.

I HAVE seen the smooth and polished "Alcoa looking" 10-hole wheels w/o the rivets, but my wheels are the 10-hole models WITH rivets (a la American Racing Outlaw II's, which is what I thought they were.) I guess I should have noticed the three small mounting holes that are located around the center hole (mounts the center cap via three stainless screws.) I think these wheels are keepers. Off to the polishing shop here in nearby Murray, UT for an estimate tomorrow.

The DOM tubing has been ordered for the cage and F&R bumpers. On Monday, I'll get the shocks and seats ordered, and the follow-up order with John at Autofab for the rear 18" suspension system.

Anyone know of any good sources for Mastercraft "originals" or Beard "Superseats?"

The pictures:
  1. The Bronco in the shop
  2. Pile O' stuff
  3. The old beams...off to Autofab for some other lucky customer
  4. Front spindles...will have to find that bad seal and get it replaced...in fact, I may just replaced all of the seals
  5. Driver's side
  6. Passenger's side
  7. The "Alcoa-look" Ford wheels
  8. The 15x7.5's I have
More later this week...
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Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007

Last edited by denhabr; 04-27-2009 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Fixed the pictures...
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post #24 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 06:51 AM
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post #25 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 08:18 AM
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Check the back spacing of the rims. Most rims for Bronco's are a standard 4" backspace. If I were to get rims again I would get a 3.5" or 3.25" back space for a little extra turning clearance.

Now I had 37" MTR's so maybe it would not matter with 35"s but like everything else in the tire world....one day you will bump up to 37's.
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post #26 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Pics fixed...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red91XLT View Post
Pictures have been fixed...

Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007
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post #27 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel backspacing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda View Post
Check the back spacing of the rims. Most rims for Bronco's are a standard 4" backspace. If I were to get rims again I would get a 3.5" or 3.25" back space for a little extra turning clearance.

Now I had 37" MTR's so maybe it would not matter with 35"s but like everything else in the tire world....one day you will bump up to 37's.
Just checked them...yup, 4" backspacing on my 15x7.5 'riveted' wheels. Thanks for the tip. Actually, I've always been a big fan of the American Racing AR-23 wheels (below), and if the polishing doesn't work out on the current wheels, then some nice shiny new AR-23's will be in order (#AR235885) in 15x8 with the 3.75" backspacing.

Thanks.
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Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007
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post #28 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 11:50 AM
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[QUOTE=denhabr;2033421]It's in the shop, and the tear down has begun...

Any suggestions on how to finish the beams, radius arms, shock tower, etc? Powder coating? Paint? Line-X? Other?
=========
use a rattle can. THe beams will ber covered with desert dirt after the first drive THE towers will be like new after years of use - just dusty. The Ranrms will be bare on the bottom but look pretty goos after years of use.

Got one of the original wheels/tires home for further inspection...only to find out that the wheels are Ford products! They have the Ford oval logo and "15x7.5 J DOT" stamped inside the back of the rim. I've never seen these on a Bronco or F-150 before.

I HAVE seen the smooth and polished "Alcoa looking" 10-hole wheels w/o the rivets, but my wheels are the 10-hole models WITH rivets (a la American Racing Outlaw II's, which is what I thought they were.) I guess I should have noticed the three small mounting holes that are located around the center hole (mounts the center cap via three stainless screws.) I think these wheels are keepers. Off to the polishing shop here in nearby Murray, UT for an estimate tomorrow.
=========
The smooth wheels are oem Alcoas that came on the 96. Not sure about the heritage of the rivited ones but they are off an earlier model F or FSB. The smooth ones is what I use and they will take a huge beating before failure. They are great wheels and I have a stockpile of them just in case. After 5 years I finally dented one in my last trip thru Matomi. Smoothe ones are keepers. The rivited ones are also keepers as well, use them.
If you decide on anybodys cast wheels be prepared to buy replacement one at full price. I like the $50 JY forged Alcoa replacements
Paul
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post #29 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post
Any suggestions on how to finish the beams, radius arms, shock tower, etc? Powder coating? Paint? Line-X? Other?
Powder coating is great until it chips, then you're screwed. I used the rattle-can bed liner on my radius arms and it looks cool.

If I ever get a hair in my ass to remove and re-coat my suspension parts It'll either be with Line-X or industrial paint. Not rattle-can, but something with hardener and sprayed out of a gun.

Whatever you decide on, I recommend a lighter color so fluid leaks stand out and are easily noticed.
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post #30 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 12:55 PM
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Hey Denhabr,

Those AR23 were being sold by Curt LeDuc's shop for $10.00 per wheel. I believe they were 15 x 8 drilled out for 5/8 studs. You might want to call and see if they still have any sets left.

Chris

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post #31 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 03:15 PM
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Actually, pwdercoat works awesome, and typically stick well so long as it is applied after sandblasting, and has a clear coat on the powdercoat as well!


Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG View Post
Powder coating is great until it chips, then you're screwed. I used the rattle-can bed liner on my radius arms and it looks cool.

If I ever get a hair in my ass to remove and re-coat my suspension parts It'll either be with Line-X or industrial paint. Not rattle-can, but something with hardener and sprayed out of a gun.

Whatever you decide on, I recommend a lighter color so fluid leaks stand out and are easily noticed.

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post #32 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 07:32 PM
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Welcome and I am looking forward to your build, one possability for the front over the true trac would be the power lok limited slip. I havee that over the true trac based on unitrax recomendations and it has been great. I have been running on it up fornt and detroit in the rear for about 3 years now no issues whatsoever. I look forward to seeing that truck come togheter.
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post #33 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWMTN View Post
=========
Use a rattle can. The beams will be covered with desert dirt after the first drive. The towers will be like new after years of use - just dusty. The Ranrms (radius arms?) will be bare on the bottom but look pretty good after years of use.
=========
The smooth wheels are oem Alcoas that came on the 96. Not sure about the heritage of the rivited ones but they are off an earlier model F-150 or FSB. The smooth ones is what I use and they will take a huge beating before failure. They are great wheels and I have a stockpile of them just in case. After 5 years I finally dented one in my last trip thru Matomi. Smoothe ones are keepers. The rivited ones are also keepers as well, use them.

If you decide on anybodys cast wheels be prepared to buy replacement one at full price. I like the $50 JY forged Alcoa replacements

Paul
What are "$50 JY forged Alcoa replacements?"

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG View Post
Powder coating is great until it chips, then you're screwed. I used the rattle-can bed liner on my radius arms and it looks cool.

If I ever get a hair in my ass to remove and re-coat my suspension parts It'll either be with Line-X or industrial paint. Not rattle-can, but something with hardener and sprayed out of a gun.

Whatever you decide on, I recommend a lighter color so fluid leaks stand out and are easily noticed.
...but I thought powdercoat was tough enough to resist dings and chips? No? I do like the rattle-can bedliner idea. Nice thick coat with a textured finish. Any brand you'd recommend? And the light color is also a good idea. I always do my engines in a med/light grey (like the Tra-Co Engineering trans-am and IROC race engines of the 60's and 70's.) Spot an oil leak in a second!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BajaBronco13 View Post
Hey Denhabr,

Those AR23 were being sold by Curt LeDuc's shop for $10.00 per wheel. I believe they were 15 x 8 drilled out for 5/8 studs. You might want to call and see if they still have any sets left.

Chris
Called Curt today. He has 4 left, used, but drilled for the 9/16's studs. Still $10.00 each (holy cow...but shipping to Utah will offset the $ savings.) The local polishing shop wants $75/wheel to spit shine these suckers, so I am going to roll up my sleeves, give it the old college try, and do it myself. I found out that the rivets punch out from the back side, so that will give me a nice smooth front surface for wet sanding, polishing, and buffing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Polar Cub View Post
Welcome and I am looking forward to your build, one possability for the front over the true trac would be the power lok limited slip. I havee that over the true trac based on unitrax recomendations and it has been great. I have been running on it up fornt and detroit in the rear for about 3 years now no issues whatsoever. I look forward to seeing that truck come together.
Jeremy
I'll look into the PowerLok. Thanks for the suggestion.

Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007
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post #34 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 08:45 AM
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When the front end is being reassembled have the shop eliminate the C-Clip.
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post #35 of 262 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009, 10:20 AM
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I do like the rattle-can bedliner idea. Nice thick coat with a textured finish. Any brand you'd recommend?
I would get it all professionally sprayed before it goes in. The rattle-can stuff looks good but it doesn't harden like the stuff the pros use. If you go this route you need to make sure they don't spray where the beams and radius arms connect (top and bottom of beam). Otherwise you might never get them together. You could could bolt the beams and radius arms together and trace where you want them to mask.


Also, don't forget to fit the beams on the truck BEFORE you have the coated, painted, whatever. You might need to drill out the hole in the beam for the third mounting point. John says to use a 1/2" or 9/16" bolt, but I drilled the beam out to accept a 5/8 bolt. It's overkill, but it looks and fits better.

If you do this after you'll be chipping your new finish. You'll have to pardon the black paint. I did that to take some TTB silhouette pictures when we (Ollie) were working on our logo.

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post #36 of 262 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Project Update & OEM Ford 15" 10-Hole w/ Rivets

  • John at Autofab has completed the build of the beams, the front 16" suspension system, and the rear 18" system. They are on a truck to the shop here in Utah for installation. John received my cores last Wednesday.
  • The DOM tubing for the safety cage and F&R bumpers has been ordered by my fabricator and is on the way.
  • I ordered six S-A-W 2.5" reservoir shocks, 2x16" of travel (56000-116), 2x10" of travel (56000-110), and 2x12" of travel (56000-112), all at $349 ea, with free shipping.
  • Monday I order the seats...
  • Wheels:
Here is a picture of the one wheel I have home from the shop. They map to Hollander #1701, are 15x7.5", and have 4" backspacing. It has 3 holes in the center hub to mount the chrome Ford center caps, and has small plastic core inserts (where the 3 mounting bolts go,) which can be removed from the backside during polishing/cleaning. The same wheels (fully polished) off the internet go for $195 ea, so I'll put some extra effort into getting these cleaned up.

The 20 "rivets" are simply cosmetic and can be removed by punching them out from the backside for cleaning/polishing.

Since a local polishing shop wanted $75.00/wheel, I'm going to give it some TLC, a lot of elbow grease, and try to clean the wheels up myself. I will start with the removal of the 20 rivets (and the three mounting sleeves for the center cap,) followed by removal of the clear coat (aircraft stripper), and then hand polishing with steel wool and Brasso. Then I'll try a power ball, and some good aluminum polish and go to town. I'll finish the backside off with some scrubbing and maybe a light coat of light grey spray paint (so I never have to deal with the backside again...)

If the resulting finish is not up to my standards...I'll just get them powder coated a nice high-gloss silver (or as close to the polished aluminum look as possible) and call it a day (read: no more polishing!)
Pic 1: The complete wheel assembly (with old Michelin LTX 235/75R-15 tire)
Pic 2: Hub close-up
Pic 3: Backside (complete with small spider nest)
Pic 4: Ford size stamping on backside
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Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007
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post #37 of 262 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post
  • Wheels:
Here is a picture of the one wheel I have home from the shop. They map to Hollander #1701, are 15x7.5", and have 4" backspacing. It has 3 holes in the center hub to mount the chrome Ford center caps, and has small plastic core inserts (where the 3 mounting bolts go,) which can be removed from the backside during polishing/cleaning. The same wheels (fully polished) off the internet go for $195 ea, so I'll put some extra effort into getting these cleaned up.

The 20 "rivets" are simply cosmetic and can be removed by punching them out from the backside for cleaning/polishing.

Since a local polishing shop wanted $75.00/wheel, I'm going to give it some TLC, a lot of elbow grease, and try to clean the wheels up myself. I will start with the removal of the 20 rivets (and the three mounting sleeves for the center cap,) followed by removal of the clear coat (aircraft stripper), and then hand polishing with steel wool and Brasso. Then I'll try a power ball, and some good aluminum polish and go to town. I'll finish the backside off with some scrubbing and maybe a light coat of light grey spray paint (so I never have to deal with the backside again...)

If the resulting finish is not up to my standards...I'll just get them powder coated a nice high-gloss silver (or as close to the polished aluminum look as possible) and call it a day (read: no more polishing!)
Pic 1: The complete wheel assembly (with old Michelin LTX 235/75R-15 tire)
Pic 2: Hub close-up
Pic 3: Backside (complete with small spider nest)
Pic 4: Ford size stamping on backside
============
Check the wheels to see of they are anodized. If so anything abrasive or chemical like Brasso will make them look worse. Remember the stock wheels are of teh highest quality. That is why I recommended JY wheels and carefully cherrry pick them. For me I started with cherry pick ones plus teh ones that came with the Bronco. Now they all are pretty used.
I have some pricey cast wheels on the wifes Jeep that are teflon coated. Look great when new and now show lots of scratches tha cannot be repaired.
Paul
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post #38 of 262 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 12:42 PM
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Here is an old mountain bike tip for anodized parts that I wanted to remove the anodizing and polishing the parts out to a mirror finish. I would use easy off oven cleaner and the anodizing just fell off. I would then wash the part down and hand polished using mothers rim polish. I'm sure it will work for wheels as well.

The Baja Bandidos
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post #39 of 262 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Bronco Info: '96 XL 5.0L/E4OD @ 170,000! - AutoFab 16" System, SAW Shocks, Goodyear SilentArmor 35x12.50-15
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Easy Off a no-go...

BajaBronco13,

I tried the Easy Off and, well, the results were less than spectacular. It still seems to have all of the clear coating/anodizing stuck to it. The pitting around the center hub and lug nut holes is still there, and most of the finish is still very shiny.

I guess it goes to the powder coaters now to let them finish it off, once and for all, no? Or would you suggest I try another round of Easy Off...or a stronger agent (like Aircraft Stripper?)


Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=146007
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post #40 of 262 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 12:26 PM
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Having them sand blasted then powder coated clear would look pretty cool.
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