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post #61 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 10:46 AM
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Wheels came out great polished! Loose the center caps.

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post #62 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 10:52 AM
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That's a good looking tire, Brad. The local Park Rangers (Oceano Dunes) use those with pretty good success.
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post #63 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 01:42 PM
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Wow, I would have never imagined those would look that good polished!
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post #64 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-06-2009, 02:55 PM
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Very well thought out build! I haven't replied to your thread because to be honest, i'm a bit jealous. But i'm over it, and very excited to see how this all comes out. Keep up the good work!

Nick.

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post #65 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 02:26 AM
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Keep the caps. That black looks interesting.
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post #66 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 02:30 PM
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I like this build a ton. I have a set of the newer style oem rims without rivets that I've been considering switching back to. Im very over the look and driveability of the black steelies i have now.

Congrats.

-Zach
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Quote:
Originally posted by Keith_L
But it'll get better with more strokes and at higher speeds...
Quote:
Originally posted by RavenTBK
With my luck, I'd end up putting undue stress on my balls and screwing them up to the point it will take a helluva lot more than $115.00 to get them fixed.
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post #67 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-07-2009, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Replies to comments...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drilim View Post
I've been on the shelf about spending the coin to get a set of single shock mount autofab buckets to mount up my saw 2.5x10's. I think your last pictures sold me. damn you.

It doesnt look like it in the picture, but I could be wrong : Did you get the coil adjuster buckets? If not, what made up your mind other than the difference in $$$??
Actually, when I first saw what John shipped...I had to call him and ask if he included the coil adjuster buckets 'at no charge.' He said that he welds the adjusting nut (on the top of the coil buckets) to ALL of his kits now. That way, if the owner wants the adjuster later, John can ship it and the owner can install it w/o having to send back the original bucket assembly for modifications.

I decided to hold on the extra cost of the adjusters ($200) and see how John's springs hold up first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stan the man View Post
Those look like the adjustable buckets, you can see the big ass nut on the top of the bucket. How much were those buckets/engine bar?
The complete front end from Autofab totaled $3,100 ($2,850 for the kit + $250 for additional gusseting of the beams), plus shipping to Utah. This was for the Autofab 16" travel Bronco/F-150 TTB system for dual 2.5" Sway-A-Way shocks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM GLX View Post
In the second to last picture, the engine brace looks like it only has spot welds on the corners, is that right or is my vision playing tricks on me.
As Dirtball stated below, those are just temporary spot-welds to fit and place the parts, prior to final TIG welding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtball View Post
I think I remember reading somewhere autofab does that because engine compartments can vary from truck to truck, so you have to make a custom brace. But look in the same picture, is that seam in the tubing?
Better not be a seam! I paid for mild-steel DOM seamless for the cage, F&R bumpers, and any extra bracing. I will have my fabricator double check it again, though! Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by convoy View Post
I've been looking into AT tires to replace the BFG muds and the silent armors was one I was considering. Post up pics of those when you can I would love to see what they look mounted and how they perfrom.
See pictures above!

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG View Post
Yup. Final location depends on under-hood options. Looking good, Brad. That's going to be a sweet rig!
Thank you SteveG!

Quote:
Originally Posted by yogib View Post
Havent had a chance to read your whole post.But if your needing a cage and have some skills.A good friend of mine has all the measurements and could bend you up the tubes for the whole front cage.He does awesome work and knows the bends probably in his head, because he does so many bronco cages.Then all you have to do is notch,weld,and gusset.All 2" dom. except tubes by windshield / \ 1 1/4",beside seat,and under dash.those are 1 3/4" I believe.
Thanks yogib, but my fabricators are building a full custom cage for me from the ground up...all DOM mild steel tubing. My primary fabricator (a CAD designer) built himself a gorgeous 2WD Ranger that appeared in Off-Road Magazine in 2004 (http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/...cab/index.html), so I am relying upon him and his senior welder to do this up right. I hope I will have some pictures of the interior/cage here this coming week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TCM GLX View Post
Wheels came out great polished! Loose the center caps.
1 vote against center caps!

Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG View Post
That's a good looking tire, Brad. The local Park Rangers (Oceano Dunes) use those with pretty good success.
Thanks. I just like the square shoulder look myself. I was really hoping M/T would bring back the old school Baja King in 35" radial, but no such luck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brokenbronco View Post
Very well thought out build! I haven't replied to your thread because to be honest, i'm a bit jealous. But i'm over it, and very excited to see how this all comes out. Keep up the good work! Nick.
Thanks Nick for the nice comment and appreciate the honesty. Hey, I drooled on my keyboard looking at many other projects on-line over many years... I know the feeling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda View Post
Keep the caps. That black looks interesting.
1 vote FOR the center caps! Tied @ 1!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drilim View Post
I like this build a ton. I have a set of the newer style oem rims without rivets that I've been considering switching back to. Im very over the look and driveability of the black steelies i have now.

Congrats.
Thanks. I was thinking at one time, of having this look like a Ford Bronco version of the M1009 CUCV (the mid-90's Army version of the Chevy Blazer 6.2L Diesel 4x4.) I even wanted to use Stockton HD 4x4 steel wheels, and apply a woodland camo paint job! Think old-school COMBATT truck, er...Bronco. But then I came to my senses...

See a pic of Chevy's COMBATT concept below, along with the once-planned Stockton steel wheel.

Trivia Moment: One of the fabricators of the new Ford F-150 Raptor R Race Truck, Greg Foutz, was approached by Ford management in 1999 to help them design their F-250/F-350 diesel COMBATT Truck (COMmercially BAsed Tactical Truck), a possible replacement for the HUMMER. This due to Greg's success with his 1999 and 2005 model year F-250 2WD Class 8 Foutz Motorsports/Fabtech #8111 truck.
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Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

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post #68 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-13-2009, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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June Update...Part III

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtball View Post
I think I remember reading somewhere autofab does that because engine compartments can vary from truck to truck, so you have to make a custom brace. But look in the same picture, is that seam in the tubing?
I stopped off at the shop yesterday, and inspected the cross bar myself. GOOD EYES! It is a seam. However, my fabricator agreed with SteveG...in that the cross bar is there to simply stabilize the shock hoops from splaying inward (or outward,) and holds light loads as compared to other components. Won't be an issue.

Here are the shots of the Bronco from my visit yesterday afternoon...
  1. The Obligatory Side-Mockup Shot...with the tires rolled into place in front of the hubs (or where the hubs should be...and yes, the rear suspension is still the OEM stuff...the guys will move to the rear later this week when the F shocks, axles, etc are all in place.) Suspect that the actual final body height isn't quite right, however, this gave me an idea of what it will kinda' look like when complete. Good looking profile, IMHO...
  2. Rear Wheel/Wheel Well Close-Up: Still not sure about fiberglass...yet. I've asked my fabricators to put 'er all together, bolt on the wheels, and set it down on the suspension to see where it looks like the tires will hit. Frankly, I like the look of the OEM steel...just wish I could radius the F&R wheel wells ever so slightly to provide the clearance I need. My fabricators say I may be OK with the rear, but the front wheel wells are going to be another story.
  3. Drooped Driver's Side Beam and Radius Arm
  4. Drooped Driver's Side TTB
  5. TTB/Radius Arm attachment Close-Up
  6. Driver's Wheel Well
  7. Upper Shock Hoop and Spring Bucket: There is A LOT of stuff I'll need to get the guys to relocate in the engine bay. The entire air filter box is toast, so is the battery; both need to be relocated...somewhere. It's amazing how all the room disappears when the shock hoops are in place, and the crossbar is positioned. Ugh.
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Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

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post #69 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post
Actually, when I first saw what John shipped...I had to call him and ask if he included the coil adjuster buckets 'at no charge.' He said that he welds the adjusting nut (on the top of the coil buckets) to ALL of his kits now. That way, if the owner wants the adjuster later, John can ship it and the owner can install it w/o having to send back the original bucket assembly for modifications.

I decided to hold on the extra cost of the adjusters ($200) and see how John's springs hold up first.

Very interesting. I called autofab about 4 weeks ago to get a prices on the coil buckets with/without. I talked to John and he never mentioned that they are building them now to 'retrofit' after the fact. Thats really nice to know because I'd like to snatch them and then possible add the adjusters later after I establish if they are a must have.

Project is coming along really nice.

-Zach
http://www.superford.org/registry/ve...il.php?id=3814
Quote:
Originally posted by Keith_L
But it'll get better with more strokes and at higher speeds...
Quote:
Originally posted by RavenTBK
With my luck, I'd end up putting undue stress on my balls and screwing them up to the point it will take a helluva lot more than $115.00 to get them fixed.
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post #70 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post
[*]Rear Wheel/Wheel Well Close-Up: Still not sure about fiberglass...yet. I've asked my fabricators to put 'er all together, bolt on the wheels, and set it down on the suspension to see where it looks like the tires will hit. Frankly, I like the look of the OEM steel...just wish I could radius the F&R wheel wells ever so slightly to provide the clearance I need. My fabricators say I may be OK with the rear, but the front wheel wells are going to be another story.
I serious doubt you will have any "fender" issues with that lift and tire size. The area you will need to cut is the back edges of the front bumper. Mark a line from the top to the bottom following the flow of the fender. Lop that off and your set.

Looking good.
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post #71 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-14-2009, 10:12 AM
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OEM alloys/caps & glass fenders

You can use the caps for if you keep the 1/2" lugs. They look good. I have 5/8" lugs with washer nuts so the caps don't fit. When I get some time I will open up the holes in the caps and see if I can mount them over the big nuts (1-1/8" socket required). With caps you end up with the sleeper look just like the minimal glass fender use. Some like it, some don't.
Glass fenders: With 33s the Autofab with the least flare work fine if you have the stock beam width. 35s with this fenders at full lock and full compression the riew wil lhit the fender. For extended beams you will need the bigger flare fenders for 33 or 35s. If you use wheels that are not stock dimensions none of this apples. My wheels are the smooth OEM Alcoas that came on the 96 (7.5x15). Nice because the washer nuts fit without the need for machine work.
IMO, If you plan on beating hard on the Bronco or using it in Baja you should used forged wheels, 5.8" studs, & washer nuts. Otherwise be ready for wheel failures.
Paul
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post #72 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-19-2009, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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June Update...Part V

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drilim View Post
Very interesting. I called autofab about 4 weeks ago to get a prices on the coil buckets with/without. I talked to John and he never mentioned that they are building them now to 'retrofit' after the fact. Thats really nice to know because I'd like to snatch them and then possible add the adjusters later after I establish if they are a must have.

Project is coming along really nice.
Yeah, they just arrived that way from John. Maybe he only does the adjusting nut on the dual 2.5" version long travel systems. Not sure, but worth asking. Thanks for the comments.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mda View Post
I serious doubt you will have any "fender" issues with that lift and tire size. The area you will need to cut is the back edges of the front bumper. Mark a line from the top to the bottom following the flow of the fender. Lop that off and your set. Looking good.
All the bumpers are gonna' end up in the dumpster anyway! Both front and read bumpers will be replaced with full-fabbed prerunner style bumpers, so there should be zero issues with tire contact, a least in the front. In the rear, I will roller the inner flange of the radius to give me that extra 1/2". I told my fabricators tooday that they are clear to radius the lower read portion of the front bumper as well. So, once it is all together, we'll see just how close it all comes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PWMTN View Post
You can use the caps for if you keep the 1/2" lugs. They look good. I have 5/8" lugs with washer nuts so the caps don't fit. When I get some time I will open up the holes in the caps and see if I can mount them over the big nuts (1-1/8" socket required). With caps you end up with the sleeper look just like the minimal glass fender use. Some like it, some don't.

Glass fenders: With 33s the Autofab with the least flare work fine if you have the stock beam width. 35s with this fenders at full lock and full compression the riew wil lhit the fender. For extended beams you will need the bigger flare fenders for 33 or 35s. If you use wheels that are not stock dimensions none of this apples. My wheels are the smooth OEM Alcoas that came on the 96 (7.5x15). Nice because the washer nuts fit without the need for machine work.
IMO, If you plan on beating hard on the Bronco or using it in Baja you should used forged wheels, 5.8" studs, & washer nuts. Otherwise be ready for wheel failures.
Paul
I think I will keep the caps for now. They're all polished up and lookin' pretty, ready for the truck when it gets home. That's right...the sleeper look!

I like those smooth Alcoas too. They do look nice.

So if I were to convert to 5/8ths lugs, do I have to convert to non-cone style lugs nuts? Actually I like the flat-faced lug nuts I often see on race trucks...often gold anodized. If I went that way, would I have to spot face around the lug holes to flatten the surface? Do you use washers with yours? See the two photos below. I took the pic of the AR-23 wheel on the FabTech Ranger back in the mid-90's...it has the racing style lug nuts with the wide mating surface (and yes, two nuts are missing.) The other AR-23 close up is from a Bronco Prerunner I shot at a VORRA Race in Fallon NV in 2001. He too uses the larger flat faced nut. This is the style of lug and nut I want eventually for my Bronco...gold anodized nuts of course!

Pictures from today's visit to the shop:
  1. Fabtech Ranger BFG Baja T/A on an AR-23 with extended racing lugs and nuts.
  2. Bronco Prerunner with yellow-label Goodyear racing tires on AR-23, also with extended racing lugs and nuts
  3. The Mastercrafts arrive!
  4. Blue on grey seat, 1" wider (one of two for the rear)
  5. Side view
  6. Prep for driver's side TTB pivot point gusseting (now...what to do with the P/S cooling tube?)
  7. Front Dana 44 pumpkin with 4.56 R&P after shimming
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Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

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post #73 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-24-2009, 04:54 PM
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Whats the model name of those Mastercrafts? I like them.




California Bay Area off road UC4x4.com
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post #74 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Mastercraft "Originals"

Quote:
Originally Posted by stan the man View Post
Whats the model name of those Mastercrafts? I like them.
Stan,

...those are Mastercraft "Originals"... http://www.mastercraftseats.com/original.php

Most likely their first seat design, and the one that looks the most purposeful for the budget I had. I ordered them through John at Autofab. He is a dealer for Mastercraft, and his shop is right across Highway 67 and a little way south from Mastercraft's main shop...1.4 miles away, in fact.

I ordered a total of 4 seats: two were 2" wider (for the front, as I am a 36" waist), and two were 1" wider, for the rear. All in the blue/grey color scheme.

Brad - KF6PSL
Sandy (Salt Lake City), Utah
1996 XL 5.0L/E4OD Preunnner/Chase Truck by Utah's Ojive Industries (HoleShotOffroad) & dp custom fab
Autofab, Mastercraft, RaceRunner, Bassani & Magnaflow, Hella, General Grabber, American Racing, Yukon, Eaton TT, Advanced ACS, PATC, FRPP, Accel, SONY/Kicker/Massive...

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post #75 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 12:40 AM
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you'll be very happy with those seats!
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post #76 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post
Stan,

...those are Mastercraft "Originals"... http://www.mastercraftseats.com/original.php

Most likely their first seat design, and the one that looks the most purposeful for the budget I had. I ordered them through John at Autofab. He is a dealer for Mastercraft, and his shop is right across Highway 67 and a little way south from Mastercraft's main shop...1.4 miles away, in fact.

I ordered a total of 4 seats: two were 2" wider (for the front, as I am a 36" waist), and two were 1" wider, for the rear. All in the blue/grey color scheme.
Thanks for the info. I was looking into some "Sportsman's" I actually just got my Mastercraft catalog in the mail today




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post #77 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denhabr View Post

[*]Prep for driver's side TTB pivot point gusseting (now...what to do with the P/S cooling tube?)
Get one of these (or one like it) and put it where ever you want.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-1210/
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post #78 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 11:16 AM
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I would use a larger power steering cooler... Ford pumps love to overheat and just go away until they cool down again. I used a stock transmission oil cooler out of an Explorer on mine.
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post #79 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG View Post
I would use a larger power steering cooler... Ford pumps love to overheat and just go away until they cool down again. I used a stock transmission oil cooler out of an Explorer on mine.
Thats a great recomendation Steve, the Explorer oil coolers are a dime a dozen at the Pick a Part Junkyards....

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post #80 of 262 (permalink) Old 06-25-2009, 04:18 PM
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That was meant as an example not a specific item to run. But depending on where you put it it would do just fine.
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  Ford Bronco Forum > Bronco Discussions > BroncoSpeed

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