Extended Cut & Turned Beams - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Extended Cut & Turned Beams

Okay, I am finally starting my latest project. It is to setup a pair of extended Cut and Turned beams.

Currently, my '96 has:

In the rear

Deaver J40s
Camburg extended shackes
Homebrew Shackle drop
14" Bilstein short body resevoir 7100s
Homebrew raised shock mounts
Homebrew anti-wrap bar
F150 rear disc brakes

In the front

'78 F150 buckets
Deaver Superflex springs
F-250 Shock Towers
12" Bilstein short body reservoir 7100s
Camburg Radius Arms
Solo C&T beams

Everything works great except the 35" tires rub on the radius arms when I turn the wheel all the way in either direction. I have a spare set of beams laying around and I've decided to extend them each about 1 1/2" on each side, turn them for proper camber and plate the heck out of them. You can see in the pictures that the plating has already commenced.

This may take a while, but I decided to go ahead and document it as I go. I already installed uniballs in the beams and did not take any pictures along the way so you will have to go elsewhere for that info. Here is the jig I made to hold the beams while I perform the surgery. My lift is already in and where I want it, so I just measured the relative positions of the beam pivot points and the height off the ground of each beam. I used a 3/4" rod with 0* bushings to set the caster at 6* while I tacked it all in place. There is nothing magical about 6*, it just happens to be where the first one naturally sat after I bolted it all up. I just needed a reference point so that they both get tacked in the jig at the same caster setting and then when I put the ends back on I know that 6* caster will put me back to stock. The caster is actually determined by the radius arm. However, I can (and may) add a couple degrees of extra caster when I weld the ends back on. As long as both sides are the same it should be fine.

I have already pulled the axles from my truck and I have a spare set of knuckes to do the setup. I still need to pull the pumpkin and install it on the driver's side beam so I can get the ball joints-axle-pumpkin relationship correct. By cutting the ends of the beams all the way off (which you have to do to extend them) I should not need to clock the pumpkin.

You can get an idea for how bad the camber would be off with these stock beams in the last photo where the knuckle is attached.

The jig looks pretty flimsy but it is actually quite rigid. You can easily pick the whole thing up, beams and all, and nothing moves. It is hard to see in the pictures but there are bars tacked to the top of each beam and also welded to the pivot mount of the other beam that locks the beam caster in place. The angle iron holding the beams ends up off the floor is simply bolted into the lower radius arm bolt hole. Let me know if you see any flaws in my approach. I'd rather have a bruised ego and avoid a big mistake than keep the old ego in tact and have to start grinding off welds. A fried once told me my ego is not my amigo.

Baxter









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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead and pulled the pumpkin off my truck and got it installed on the jig. That will be it for today. Next I will tackle lengthening the axles.

I am thinking 1.5" on each side. I would like to go out as far as possible without needing to modify the fenders. Does anyone know what the max beam extension is with 35s and stock fenders?

Baxter

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-05-2017, 08:08 PM
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Subbed! Nice work so far - you're a braver man than I!
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 10:06 PM
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Just my luck!!!! I was just looking for a forum on this. Please put all details up and tell us measurements on EVERYTHINGG!!! Will be back everyday haha
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panabax View Post
I am thinking 1.5" on each side. I would like to go out as far as possible without needing to modify the fenders. Does anyone know what the max beam extension is with 35s and stock fenders?
Baxter
You mean how much you can extend the beams before your tires stick out from the face of the fender? First how wide are the 35's? I would assume 12.5". Even in stock form that size tire will usually stick out a tiny bit. The other factor is your wheel backspacing. So a number of factors here but I would say a standard wheel/35" tire package will be almost flush with the plane of the fender, if not sticking out a touch. So adding 1.5" I would guestimate your tires will be out about 1.5".
What are you doing for your axle shafts?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:47 AM
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Following this now -- it's exactly what I'm going for.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I made a little progress tonight. I did some trigonometry and determined that when my tire gets all the way to the bottom of the fender, it will have moved in almost 2" as a result of the camber change. It currently sits just inside the fender so I decided to go ahead and take my chances with an extra 1 1/2" on the axles. I have to get the driver's side axle done before I can cut and turn the driver's side beam. Hopefully I can make some more progress this weekend.

I have a spare set of axles laying around, so I will use them both in order to make one set of extended axles. Generally, I think a lot of folks just cut, extend and sleeve the axles. I'm sure that's fine. However, since I have a spare set, I decided to cut them both, turn one down on the lathe so it has a smaller diameter for about 1/2" and then drill the other so they will fit together snug. This is not so much for strength, but to help make sure they are lined up and straight. I know most of you probably don't have lathes in your garage so probably you should just sleeve them.

Anyway, here are the pictures of the driver's side axle in process. The stock axle is 16.5" end to end. You will see my new axle is now 18" end to end. I also turned down the rust on the outside of the axle to 1.325" and I will also sleeve it with some chromoly tube.

This is the original axle.





Here is the joined axle on the lathe getting tack welded.



Her's the finished product. It is straight as an arrow.





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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:59 AM
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Nice work!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:30 PM
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i would consult the members on gofastbroncos with questions about prerunner stuff. Thats all we do over there if you have a question about anything someones got the answer

1989 XLT 5.8 C6 Threat C&T, Solo Radius Arms, Bilsteins, PRPs, 35s
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by S00TLYFE View Post
i would consult the members on gofastbroncos with questions about prerunner stuff. Thats all we do over there if you have a question about anything someones got the answer
Agreed about gofastbroncos. It is a much richer source of information on this type of build. I have read nearly every thread over there and got some really good feedback on my question about how far I could likely extend the beams with the stock fenders. I just decided to post my C&T build thread here since the questions come up regularly here but are never very adequately answered. Plus, if I post it here it will take like three years to roll off the first page.

Baxter

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:26 PM
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LOL true, just wanted to make sure you were aware of that page.

1989 XLT 5.8 C6 Threat C&T, Solo Radius Arms, Bilsteins, PRPs, 35s
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