Okay, I am finally starting my latest project. It is to setup a pair of extended Cut and Turned beams.
Currently, my '96 has:
In the rear
Camburg extended shackes
Homebrew Shackle drop
14" Bilstein short body resevoir 7100s
Homebrew raised shock mounts
Homebrew anti-wrap bar
F150 rear disc brakes
In the front
'78 F150 buckets
Deaver Superflex springs
F-250 Shock Towers
12" Bilstein short body reservoir 7100s
Camburg Radius Arms
Solo C&T beams
Everything works great except the 35" tires rub on the radius arms when I turn the wheel all the way in either direction. I have a spare set of beams laying around and I've decided to extend them each about 1 1/2" on each side, turn them for proper camber and plate the heck out of them. You can see in the pictures that the plating has already commenced.
This may take a while, but I decided to go ahead and document it as I go. I already installed uniballs in the beams and did not take any pictures along the way so you will have to go elsewhere for that info. Here is the jig I made to hold the beams while I perform the surgery. My lift is already in and where I want it, so I just measured the relative positions of the beam pivot points and the height off the ground of each beam. I used a 3/4" rod with 0* bushings to set the caster at 6* while I tacked it all in place. There is nothing magical about 6*, it just happens to be where the first one naturally sat after I bolted it all up. I just needed a reference point so that they both get tacked in the jig at the same caster setting and then when I put the ends back on I know that 6* caster will put me back to stock. The caster is actually determined by the radius arm. However, I can (and may) add a couple degrees of extra caster when I weld the ends back on. As long as both sides are the same it should be fine.
I have already pulled the axles from my truck and I have a spare set of knuckes to do the setup. I still need to pull the pumpkin and install it on the driver's side beam so I can get the ball joints-axle-pumpkin relationship correct. By cutting the ends of the beams all the way off (which you have to do to extend them) I should not need to clock the pumpkin.
You can get an idea for how bad the camber would be off with these stock beams in the last photo where the knuckle is attached.
The jig looks pretty flimsy but it is actually quite rigid. You can easily pick the whole thing up, beams and all, and nothing moves. It is hard to see in the pictures but there are bars tacked to the top of each beam and also welded to the pivot mount of the other beam that locks the beam caster in place. The angle iron holding the beams ends up off the floor is simply bolted into the lower radius arm bolt hole. Let me know if you see any flaws in my approach. I'd rather have a bruised ego and avoid a big mistake than keep the old ego in tact and have to start grinding off welds. A fried once told me my ego is not my amigo.