Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
Ive seen lots of '94s that are speed density around here. In fact i looked at 15 94' and 95's before i finally found this one that was MAF.
Another day, another new problem, lol. I had pulled the bronco into the garage last night because the back window was out. WHen I pulled it out this morning, the radio antena hit the garage door and the whole plate between the window and the hood (I dont know what its called) Popped loose and laid over ripping out the windshield molding and making a nice crease in the plate. There wasnt one single screw holding that thing on. Woohoo, something else the PO did a half ass job of. Damn some people are just idiots.
Made alot more progress today.
Got the rear window regulator back in, got the window back in, took the latch out and tried to fix that, but its so worn out from being bent and re-straightened that its time for a new one, so that will be on my parts order this friday. But I did manage to get everything put back together and working for the most part. Once I had it all assembled i closed the tailgate, and put the key to acc, and hit the window switch and..............
lol so my first thought was....Safety Switch. Sure enough, I opened it back up and manually closed the latch and it went up and down. So I got to looking at the striker, and the little plastic collar around it is missing. So another thing to add to my parts order. As a temporary fix, I took a small piece of cardboard about 5 inches long by 1/2 inch wide and taped one end to the striker and wrapped it around the striker then taped the other end around the striker. This performs the same function as the plastic collar on the striker, it gives the latch more to grab on to which engaged the safety switch and now it goes up and down. Rather it goes down great, and needs help going up because the regulator is so worn out, so another part to add to my parts order.
Then I moved on to the ABS issue. My ABS light was on so I did the self test and came up with 36, 76 codes. Right front ABS Sensor. So at least I know what it is. Im not experiencing any strange brake pulsations yet so I will just put that one on hold untill I have to do the front brakes. I will need to pull the tires to check the pads to see when that needs to be done. Brakes are good at the moment so I think I can put that issue aside for now.
Then I decided to do the ECU Selt test. I placed a jumper from the STI to the negative battery cable and turned the ignition to run and......nothing. THe post on Fordfuelinjection is kind of confusing. Here is the quote.....
(From Fordfuelinjection.com )
"1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Get some paper and a pen.
5. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
6. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
7. Turn key to RUN.
8. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
9. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count! "
If you notice it looks like #2 and #3 say the same thing. Im wondering if that is a typo. Anyway I took a wire from my negative battery terminal and connected it to the single cable Self Test Input and did the procedure and got no response. And I did that after letting it idle for 15 minuites to reach operational temperature. Dont know what I did wrong if anything or maybe the connector is wired wrong. Or maybe my Check Engine light is dead. So tommorow I will try the alternate method using the volt meter and see what I get there.
Next I went on to the Stereo. The PO had some kind of massive stereo system in this thing. He had 00 (double ought) wire going from the battery to the back of the truck and 3 preamp leads and pieced together speaker wires of 3 or 4 different varieties going all over the damn place. Looks like my 11 year old could have done a better job on the installation. So I ripped all that crap out yesterday. Went to bestbuy and talked to the stereo installer and he gave me the proper removal tool to get the pioneer head unit out. Took out the head unit and disconnected the amp leads and remote wire and pulled all that crap out. Then much to my amazement he DID NOT cut the factory harness, thank goodness. So I went back to bestbuy and got the factory adaptor and wired that in to the head unit harness and then reconnected the speakers to the factory wires and VIOLA! I have a stereo! Broke it in with some Pink Floyd - Pulse! Cranks just fine with the 50x4 built in amp. The speakers are ragged out as hell though from the PO overdriving them, but they will do for now untill I get extra capital to replace them. At least they work.
Well thats all for today. Gotta think about what I wanna do for tommorow.
I have an appointment at the transmission shop on Friday to get the bad news about the tranny leak. Hopefully its just the seal to the transfer case, but ive never heard of a transmission shop telling the truth about anything, so I will be up thier ass the whole time during the inspection just to make sure they dont screw with something while im not looking.