Dman's 94 Bronco Build - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-17-2015, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Dman's 94 Bronco Build

I wanted to get a build thread going before I got too far with my truck. Things will be a little slow at first as I am finishing up a house remodel, but I expect them to pick up this fall and winter. What I am starting out with is a 1994 XLT with a 351w, E4OD, all original Bronco. This truck was owned by a radio station in Mountain Home, AR which means two things. One, sitting in a parking lot day after day in the elements with vinyl graphics has totally ruined the paint job. But it also means fairly low mileage for its age (160k), and most importantly - no rust.

I haven't totally decided what I am going to do with the truck but I do know it will primarily see weekend cruising, toy hauler, lake and caming, and light trail type use.

Right now I am thinking a small lift 2-4", 33-34" tires, lots of restoration to the body and interior, and most importantly a drive train update. There is nothing wrong with the current drivetrain and it runs like a champ after I've worked out all the kinks from the PO, but I enjoy modern power plants. I have 3 options I am currently considering LSX, Coyote, or Cummins. I have not committed to any of them at this point, but I have done LSX swaps before so I am pretty comfortable with that route. I think it will mostly depend on what I come across when I get ready to do the swap.

I'll get on to the pics now.... day I towed her home:



First day I got her into running condition. Had to replace the distributor, MAP, EEC/ECU/PCM, new pads, shoes, rotors, drums, front and rear shocks, welded up a new exhaust (PO cut the Y connector right before the cat because he thought it was clogged). Removed the roof light bar, swapped wheels/tires with an F150 I had, and naturally took the top off.



Then the girlfriend put us to work.



Next mod/update will be a soft top install because I am super OCD and the threat of getting rain in the tub drives me nuts.
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post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-18-2015, 12:12 AM
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Looks like you got yourself a nice project truck. Bad paint or not, the fact that there is no rust is awesome. Good luck with the build. I say you go Coyote for the engine swap. Keep it all Ford. Plus I want to see how it turns out as that is my plan for my Bronco one day.
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post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-20-2015, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't get the greatest picture of it since the weekend was insanely busy as we are prepping to go on vacation this week. But I managed to get the soft top assembled. Softopper quality seems to be really good, but their directions leave something to be desired. Needless to say after some disassembly and reassembly I finally got it on there and figured out.

I have already come to terms with the fact that the vinyl windows will get messed up and there's nothing I can do about it. Rolling the sides up twice over the weekend has already produced some scuffing/scratching. Oh well.

Love the top none the less, and it has already saved me from getting wet.

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post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 04-20-2015, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LIL MULE View Post
Looks like you got yourself a nice project truck. Bad paint or not, the fact that there is no rust is awesome. Good luck with the build. I say you go Coyote for the engine swap. Keep it all Ford. Plus I want to see how it turns out as that is my plan for my Bronco one day.
Thanks I appreciate that. There's a couple of Coyote build threads going right now that I am watching too in case you have not seen them yet.
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post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 06-16-2015, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Wheels and tires were not high on my priority list, however I noticed the tread was starting to split on the tires that came with the truck so I went ahead and got what I wanted.

I did a lot of searching to determine if this combo would fit a 1994 Bronco with no lift, and I'm pleased to say that it will. The worst point of contact is with the bumper, which I will be moving out an inch or so. There is space in the pics, but when the suspension flexes it catches the corner of the bumper just a hair.

Also, if you turn the wheel to full lock and hold it there, the tire just barely rubs against the trailing arm, but this should not be an issue. I also have 1" spacers that I can toss on if I decide to later. So here we go...

Wheels: 18x9 with +1 offset and 5" backspacing
Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear Duratrac which equates to a 33.4" tall tire
Suspension: Factory with the exception of Monroe gas shocks





Additional fitment images in album.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/27113/84680
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post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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So I haven't made any real progress besides some misc. repairs and maintenance to keep it on the road, but I am even trying to keep that to a minimum while I continue collecting parts and wait for my old house to sell.

In the meantime I've picked up a 1996 parts truck, and will be taking delivery of my 4BT next week. I'm pretty excited to get started.









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post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 11:15 AM
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Hurry up already!! Will be watching this build. Enjoy and keep us updated
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post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 10-12-2015, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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My original plan was to keep the E4OD behind the 4BT, but after diving a little deeper into what would be needed to make it work, the cost just did not seem worth it.

As I mentioned in the previous post, I picked up a 5 speed 1996 Bronco to serve as a donor for the bulk of the 5-speed conversion, and I was fortunate enough to find and make a deal on this SBF ZF-5.

Got to say shifting gears in a Bronco feels pretty good.

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post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 12:43 PM
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Was looking for the thread I remembered with the 18's on a Bronco.
Those look great!!
When I start my major resto-mod I will go with something like that.
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post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Found a little time this weekend to get started on the build...

One of the first things I needed to do was flip it over and turn the pan around for rear sump. While I am in there, I also needed to check the crank thrust. I originally thought I had as much as .026" of movement in the crank, but with the pan off I was able to get a better measurement and only have about .010" of movement. Since this is within spec, I decided that I am not going to do anything outside of the rear sump swap under here for now.



I used a small punch to knock out the oil dip stick, and the plug where the dip stick will need to go and I swapped the two around. I used some rtv around the dip stick tube and the plug before tapping them back into their respective holes.



New oil suction tube mounted, and most of the gasket material cleaned off the block.


Unfortunatley, that was all I managed to get to for now. Next steps will be taking off the timing cover to perform a KDP fix, new front seal, and new rear main.
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post #11 of 69 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 10:07 AM
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Bronco Info: 1990 XLT 351 E4OD, JBA, Flowmaster, 1ton PBbooster, Willwood reardisk, B&M transcooler, Warn hubs
Wheel look bitch'en - GREAT choice!
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post #12 of 69 (permalink) Old 12-16-2015, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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The good news is the 351 and E4OD have been extracted and the 4BT/ZF5 combo is now sitting between the rails.

The bad news is that it needs to come back out to make some changes to my motor mounts. The combination I tried using sits just a little bit too high and I am hitting the pinch seam on the firewall with he rear valve cover. I could remedy this with a hammer, but since I have the option to I want to go ahead and lower the engine before I get too far.

Hopefully the solution will be using 7.3 frame brackets instead of the inline 6 brackets currently in there. I also have some thinner mounts that may or may not be used depending on what things look like once I get the brackets swapped. Here's some pics..




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post #13 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Been a while since I have updated the thread over here, but I've been making some steady progress on the swap.

First, on the drivetrain end of things I finally got the engine positioned in an acceptable location. I ended up using a '96 F250 diesel frame plate on the passenger side of the frame, and a domed F150 4.9 frame plate on the driver side. This combination provided the most level and lowest mounting point for the 4BT without doing something custom. For the actual motor mounts I used Anchor 2710's. Anchor 2469's would also work if someone needed more clearance on top as they are a thinner mount. I opted to go with the thicker one in hopes that it would absorb more engine vibration.

The ZF-5 bolted onto the 4BT using the flywheel and adapter plate that came with the engine which luckily was out of a Ford bread truck. The slave cylinder, as always, was a real joy to bleed. It's still not quite 100%, but the pedal comes up on it's own after being depressed. I'll bleed it some more later.

I used front and rear driveshafts out of my donor Bronco which is a 96 XL with M5OD. These bolted right in without modifications.

Where I ran into some headache, was the wiring. My truck was E4OD with push button 4x4, and I opted to retain the push button transfer case. I had to do a lot of digging to make this work, but I finally found this thread here with good info and got 4L working.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...orumsite/20982
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post #14 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Next I took on turbo mounting...

The engine came with a manifold that position the turbo in the low rear passenger side of the engine compartment, which made exhaust plumbing an issue, especially when attempting to fit 3 or 4" down pipe.

To remedy this, I picked up a 6BT manifold, cut off the front two cylinders, welded it up, and flipped it over which resulted in a front top mount of my turbo.

Started with this...


Ended with this...








Full disclosure, I am not a professional welder by any means - and my equipment of choice is a $100 HF welder - but I think these are good enough to keep the exhaust gasses in.
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post #15 of 69 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Last update for now, is the fuel system...

I read ahead of time that metal tanks were not the best for diesel fuel, so I picked up a new plastic tank. I also sourced a rear filler neck from a 96 diesel F250 previously in preparation for the swap.

I started out with the stock fuel pump assembly...


And parts needed to make my modifications consisting of a stainless 3/8 compression union, 3/8 stainless brake line tube, and the pickup screen from a 99+ diesel truck.


I removed the plastic bucket containing the fuel pump and using the union extended the suction tube to the bottom of the tank.


Russell fuel injection to AN adapter fittings on top. I like the ones with the threaded retaining insert as I've had the plastic style ones fail on me once on a Mustang.


Fuel assembly installed in the tank


18' of nylon and stainless braided hose for the feed and return lines
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post #16 of 69 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 06:51 PM
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Bronco Info: 1994 f-150, 4x4, zf 5-speed, intercooled Cummins 4BT, Dana44SAS, short wheelbase daily driver
Couple questions about fuel setup
Were those Russel adapters 5/16" 3/8" or 1/4"?

What's your plan on the other end of those nice hoses? Slip on with clamps? Or are you converting engine side to AN somehow?

Who made the hoses? And what size?
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post #17 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-16-2016, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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It has been a while since I've updated this thread, I've done lots of work that I documented on 4btswaps but not here mainly because it pertained to the details of swapping in a cummins 4bt which was more suited for the audience over there. I've been driving the Bronco with 4BT power for a while now and overall I am happy with the swap, but I could use a little more power. I haven't decided if that will happen via turning up fuel and air to the 4BT or stepping up to a 6BT. I have some time to think about that.

In the meantime, what started out as a weekend job to install some adjustable camber bushings has snowballed into kicking off the frame off restoration, just because I don't really like doing things twice.




First, I needed to build something that'll support and allow me to move the frame out from under the body since the front axle is gone. I had this metal pallet laying around, and after taking some measurements to confirm, it looks like the frame rails will sit right on there, I just need to weld on some casters. Will be splitting the body and frame next.

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post #18 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Making slow progress. 4BT and ZF5 are out, will be splitting the body from the frame this week.




We've been here before....

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post #19 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 05:33 PM
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wow dude frame off resto huh? i had no idea the rabbit hole had gotten so big!!!! cool project! I'll call ya soon

Slightly Modified
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post #20 of 69 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IIVIIoonshiner View Post
wow dude frame off resto huh? i had no idea the rabbit hole had gotten so big!!!! cool project! I'll call ya soon
Yeah that was always the long term plan, I just wanted to get the 4bt in there first to make sure that's the engine I was going to stick with since I was still tossing around the idea of a 6.2LS before.

When I pulled the front axle apart to replace the cam bushings it led to, I may as well rebuild the rest of the axle, then to I may as well grind and paint this part of the frame before I bolt the suspension back up, to F-it may as well do it all now.

And then the 6bt fell in my lap.

Shit happens I guess lol.
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