Sparta reconstruction... (slow build...maybe) - Page 3 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #41 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by helirich View Post
Not sure I understand. A coil over solves your shock/spring, but you still have to locate the axle. Also, there's no reason a 4 link is not road worthy.

Edit, if your thinking of removing all the leafs except the top one, a coil over could work, but then you need something to control axle rap.
I was thinking of doing a ladder bar setup for the rear, but like I said, I am looking into all routes except for leaf springs. Yes, it'd be the cheapest/easiest to setup, but I just don't want to go that route.

Which would be the better route to go with? ladder bars with coilovers or a 4 link with coilovers? I like the idea of the triple rate coilovers and being able to mix the coil spring stiffness to get an ideal all around worthy vehicle but at the same time, I don't want to try and get it all built and end up hating the suspension because it doesn't flex enough offroad or flexes too much on the highway.

Or am I making this more difficult than it should be?


EDIT: I'll be buying these when the time comes to buy the tires.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pb...86rd/overview/

41.5" overall diameter

1988 Bronco Custom, 300 4.9L, ZF5 Manual, and the rest is under construction

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post #42 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 10:55 PM
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I don't know what you mean by ladder bars. Ladder bars, to me, means traction bars. Are you refuring to radius arms? In any case, I'm going to tell you that if you want to go coil over, you want 3 link or 4 link in the rear. In front, you will want one of those or radius arms.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #43 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by helirich View Post
I don't know what you mean by ladder bars. Ladder bars, to me, means traction bars. Are you refuring to radius arms? In any case, I'm going to tell you that if you want to go coil over, you want 3 link or 4 link in the rear. In front, you will want one of those or radius arms.
My bad, a little delirious at work I guess but ya, Idk why I kept putting ladder bars.

how does the 4 link do with highway speeds though?

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post #44 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I didn't get as far as I was hoping to today but between still having a cough, headache, and having to run to town and get cutoff wheels, I still got a bit done. Ended up removing part of the wiring, rear bumper, and cutting off 8 of the 10 body mount bolts. I might have to use a sawsall for the last 2 mounts but hopefully tomorrow night it'll be ready to lift the body some.




























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post #45 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 12:17 PM
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My bad, a little delirious at work I guess but ya, Idk why I kept putting ladder bars.

how does the 4 link do with highway speeds though?
You have to look at it like this. A proper 4 link (or 3 link) has no resistance to flex. Shocks only have momentary resistance to flex. Springs and sway bars are (should be) the only resistance to flex. When you say highway, the issue is a slow turn. The shocks won't stop body roll for long. If you don't have a sway bar, your outside springs are the only thing holding back body roll. (The inside ones will be helping it roll) Since the two outside springs are only designed for half the weight, they don't stop much roll.

As a spring, Leaf springs aren't any better for body roll. But as a suspension there resistance to flex helps stop some roll.

A non flexible suspension doesn't roll as much. That's why people say a 4 link is bad on the highway. But really, the purpose of suspension is to flex, so don't blame the 4 link for doing its job. If you don't like body roll, get a sway bar. (or two) The sway bar's only job is to prevent/ limit body roll. If you want the best of both worlds, get a pinable sway bar.

I hope this makes sense.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #46 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by helirich View Post
You have to look at it like this. A proper 4 link (or 3 link) has no resistance to flex. Shocks only have momentary resistance to flex. Springs and sway bars are (should be) the only resistance to flex. When you say highway, the issue is a slow turn. The shocks won't stop body roll for long. If you don't have a sway bar, your outside springs are the only thing holding back body roll. (The inside ones will be helping it roll) Since the two outside springs are only designed for half the weight, they don't stop much roll.

As a spring, Leaf springs aren't any better for body roll. But as a suspension there resistance to flex helps stop some roll.

A non flexible suspension doesn't roll as much. That's why people say a 4 link is bad on the highway. But really, the purpose of suspension is to flex, so don't blame the 4 link for doing its job. If you don't like body roll, get a sway bar. (or two) The sway bar's only job is to prevent/ limit body roll. If you want the best of both worlds, get a pinable sway bar.

I hope this makes sense.
Ya,it definitely helps. I haven't ran sway bars on it since 2012. I removed both front and rear and never had noticeable body roll. Hell, I could take 35 mph on ramps at about 45-50mph no problem. but it also had stiffer springs under it. I could look into the quick disconnect sway bars and that could help my concern with highway manners.. Thanks Heilrich

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post #47 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 10:43 PM
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My bad, a little delirious at work I guess but ya, Idk why I kept putting ladder bars.

how does the 4 link do with highway speeds though?
Not sure if you are asking about home built 4 links or factory, but there have been various 4 link front and rear factory suspensions on cars and trucks over the years.
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post #48 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Well... Interesting shit happened at work today..

Customer comes in and wants to replace his stock rims and tires on a brand new dodge with 18" rims and 35" tires. Well, the rims are reverse mount and the tech doing the job didn't realize it until it was too late. Tore the bead on a BRAND new 35x12.5x18" tire. Me being a optimistic type of person asked what the shop is going to do with the tire since in their eyes it's trashed (the shop had to buy another tire for the customer). He said no idea and left... 5 minutes before I clocked out, he came back out and said if I want it, to take it... So I did lol







And then the damage to the bead





Figured if I put it on a beadlock rim and get 3 more on beadlocks, it should do fine, right? BTW, it's not going on the Bronco, I'm going bigger

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post #49 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-20-2015, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well, unfortunately I got a little busy with a few things over the past few weeks. With my birthday weekend towards Canada (getting paid the whole time), working all last weekend as well, and working yesterday, it's a little difficult getting over to the bronco and taking a grinder to it. However, I did cut the last 2 body mount bolts, disconnected the fuel neck, and started lifting the body off the frame. I know there a few more things to disconnect so it's going to be a process of lift then disconnect then lift again.

And also, last Wednesday night I had quite a surprise...





Only found out my dog was pregnant about a month ago so it was unexpected this soon. Then had to take her in to the vet the next day because we thought there was another that didn't get delivered.



And the one I'm going to be keeping



and a closer pic of a different one.



So I'm going to be occupied with having another dog in my family and raising/training her and working on the bronco.

Anyways, I'm working on the body and once it's off, I'm bringing the chassis down to my house and pulling the motor, trans, and transfer case and doing a teardown on those.

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post #50 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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So friday after work, I pulled the bronco from my neighbor's property back down to my place. I just needed a flatter/more stable area for lifting the body. and that was pretty much all I did that day.



Then yesterday, I went through the truck disconnecting the wiring harness, brake lines, power and ground wires (stereo), and anything else tying the body and the frame together. Still have to disconnect the clutch line and a couple more minor things today and I'll have the body removed.



wiring mess



We also lifted the body about 6" to start with just to make room to see what's holding on and have access to certain plugs




I'm hoping by the end of today that I can start the teardown on the engine...

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post #51 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-27-2015, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Got a lot of progress made and still not done yet. but here's an update while I take a quick break. Got the body off and everything is ready to tear apart. Also, before I continue and have people freaking out, I do NOT condone or support the actions I performed today. It was unsafe and sketchy as all hell, but I did it as safely as I could. To put it back on, I'm taking it in to work and using a 4 post lift..

Anyways, on with the progress...









and the safety hazard I know I'll get shit over


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post #52 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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well, started tearing down the engine and after pulling off the throttle body, I can tell it's going to be interesting finding out why my engine was acting weird. First off, found out this metal gasket was partway restricting some of the flow



pulled off the intake, smog pump, alternator and bracket, fan/clutch fan, thermostat housing, idler pulley, and power steering pump/bracket











and then I decided to pull off the valve cover and see what the inside looks like on the top end.... And was very surprised at what I found...
















It's CLEAN as hell for 260k on it.

and then a comparison between the outside and inside





and that's pretty much where I stopped for the night and came in for the night






I'll update some more tomorrow or the next day depending when I get more done. Just happy that the inside of the engine is clean so far

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post #53 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 12:02 PM
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What is axactly going on here? Is the pickup hooked to a rope that goes over the tree branch holding up the front of the Bronco? Is a saw horse holding up the back?

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #54 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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There's a chain hoist to the front and a tractor on the other side for the rear. The sawhorse in each side was to hold the rear up enough to get the tractor under it. Like I said, not safe at all and I don't recommend anyone doing it. To put the body back on, I'm bringing it in to work and using the 2 post lift
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post #55 of 178 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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A little farther tonight..







looks good to me for 260k (besides the gunk/dirt I knocked in there while taking off the head)






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post #56 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-02-2015, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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So tonight I pulled the engine, removed the oil pan, starter, pickup tube/filter, and did a little more inspection.. I found good and bad things tonight.. the bad pretty much ruined my entire night and it was one of the first things I saw...

first... the good... the bottom end is beautiful. nothing wrong whatsoever. and I post more pics when I start pulling pistons, camshaft, and crankshaft









and now, the bad...





part of the bellhousing broke off. I noticed that after pulling the bellhousing bolts out. So I'm going to need to get it welded up, replace the entire ZF housing, or just get an entirely new trans...

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post #57 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-02-2015, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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forgot this one

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post #58 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-02-2015, 06:03 PM
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i'd take the trans to a professional welder.. bolt it back to the engine before welding so to insure your mating surface and bolt holes line up after its welded..

My Build :DSW's 94 Eddie Bauer

My console build: Custom Center Console
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post #59 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
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i'd take the trans to a professional welder.. bolt it back to the engine before welding so to insure your mating surface and bolt holes line up after its welded..
That's what I was planning on doing, but I'll most likely strip down the trans before taking it in. I was going to see if it's even worth the trouble of fixing it the gears are messed up (shouldn't be with only 110k on a ZF5)




As far as the progress, I don't have much to post. Had a stressful day yesterday and then today my whole body has been killing me. But I did remove the dipstick, pressure plate and clutch, pistons, etc. But I'm having trouble breaking the harmonic balancer bolt loose. (I know, should've done that first before I started tearing it down) I just need to remove that, the timing cover, timing gears, and the camshaft and crank... once that's done, strip the head down and send them both to the machine shop.

Here's some pics













and 2 different cylinders. Absolutely no scoring or damage of any kind that I could see, so I'm extremely happy about that




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post #60 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-13-2015, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Kept getting distracted from uploading these pics. These were taken about a week and a half ago?

This was before removing the transmission and tcase



and after



Then separated them and noticed that with the tcase locked in 4wd, you can spin the rear output back and forth, it sounds like a big ball bearing bouncing inside, but the front output doesn't move at all. So, there's definitely SOMETHING going on in there.. I'll see when I tear that down.

[URL=http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/88LiftdBronco/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151004_194552456_zpsutchrcab.jpg.html]

Went back to working on the engine and pulled the crank, the cam, and the lifters out







Then took off 90% of the parts off the head (don't have the tool to compress the springs yet, but I will soon)



Also, found that both the exhaust manifolds had a crack through them in the same bend (I'm assuming it's a common place to crack)



And last Monday, I picked up another vehicle.. The guy had no idea what was in it and he "broke the manual transmission shifter and its stuck in 1st gear".. Went and took a look at it and bought it right there for $700. $20 and 10 minutes of work, it was shifting in all 5 and running great. It has 4wd, 2.9L V6, longbed, "custom" front and rear bumpers, all new exhaust underneath, new skyjacker suspension lift, good toyo mts, and new steel rims. it's rough here and there, but I don't plan on keeping it. It's going up for sale next month and that money is going straight back to the Bronco.

Anyway, here it is.




1988 Bronco Custom, 300 4.9L, ZF5 Manual, and the rest is under construction

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