Sparta reconstruction... (slow build...maybe) - Page 4 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #61 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Alrighty, well the Ranger is already selling this week for $1700 (only have $850 invested), the front and rear axles (with the lift, regear, and all new parts in the front) just got posted on CL for $1500 obo just to see what pops up, and tomorrow, I'm pulling the gas tank, all the wiring, fuel lines, and try to get the axles completely removed. Then, I can take the frame up to where the body is set aside and start mocking up new suspension.

Again, plans changed after doing more research, but do need some KNOWLEDGEABLE people to chime in on this. I was noticing that the 4 link is setup with the axle at full compression (as high as it'll go), then the links are made and mounted, then the axle is dropped and shocks added.. wouldn't that throw off the wheelbase since the axle will swing down towards the front? Also, the axle will NEVER be compressed that far unless something breaks (42s won't stuff into a bronco wheelwell lol) so shouldn't I mount the rear axle a couple inches rearward and the front a couple inches forward to compensate for the swing of the links? Just trying to find this out before I'm at the point of building it and wasting money on faulty designs.
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post #62 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 10:16 AM
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It would be nice if you could make the links horizontal at ride hieght. This will lesson "roll steer". Not saying you can do this, but it is the goal. It also lessons the wheel base change as the suspension cycles. (The cause of roll steer) I guarantee you all those trucks with the links angling down at 30 degrees handle like sh1t on the road.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #63 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I'll be trussing the axles, so that should help with making the upper links be at a more horizontal plane, but the lower links will be angled pretty far if I understand what I'll have to do. But should I relocate the axles forward and rearward to correct the wheelbase issue? When the axles are at full compression, it'd be centered (as far as getting it setup) but when it drops to get it all together, it'd swing out of place and shorten the wheelbase.. so if I relocate them, it should swing INTO the correct wheelbase, correct? or am I missing something? lol

Edit: I'll be able to understand it more sometime this week when I get the rear axle under it and start designing it, but like I said, I'd rather have the info and not need it rather than need it and not have it.

1988 Bronco Custom, 300 4.9L, ZF5 Manual, and the rest is under construction

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post #64 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 03:25 PM
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I would center the axle with it at ride hieght. I assume your doing a triangular four? You understand about the pinion changing angle with droop?

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #65 of 178 (permalink) Old 10-19-2015, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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The only issue is the truck is completely apart at the moment lol. So I'm trying to figure out positioning while I'm able to easily get to everything, but it won't have the weight from the body, engine, trans, and transfer case to weigh down the frame.. and I don't have tires yet. So I'm guessing I'll have to wait a bit to get that part done?

And ya, the pinion angle was the first thing I thought of since the axle changes position/angle constantly. I still have quite a bit to learn about 4 links, but eventually I'll get it figured out.

I'm going to do double triangulated 4 link on the rear and a 3 link on the front after doing more research on it.

Thanks heilrich for taking the time to try and help me out

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post #66 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 12:27 PM
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what did you do to to fix the transmission in the ranger i have a ranger that is stuck in second gear right now
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post #67 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tylerbrigman13 View Post
what did you do to to fix the transmission in the ranger i have a ranger that is stuck in second gear right now
Well if it's just the bushings giving you the issue, I bought a rebuild kit and had it driving again in 10 minutes. If it's something other than that, you probably have an issue internally.

Here's pretty much what I bought, but it was through oriellys since it was the only place open that late

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=619&jpid=0

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post #68 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 10:35 PM
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I hope that will fix it we just rebuilt it and nothing internal is warn. Thank for the help and i like what you have planned for your build so far
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post #69 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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No problem. and thanks!

Anyways, back to the Bronco. I moved the frame up to barn/shop with the body so it's not in the weather and since it's starting to get close to having a ton of snow, I can still work on it in there. The axles are going to be coming out this weekend hopefully and then I'll start showing more progress on the drivetrain. (Been working 6 days a week for the past 4 weeks, so it's a little tiring and by the time I get home, it's already getting dark) Anyways, I am thinking about a rear mount turbo due to space under the hood and it'll be easier to fabricate rather than building manifolds and putting a turbo in a tight space. However, I'm looking at putting more than just 7 lbs of boost to it. but I'll still have to look into it more since I'll be running full length headers.

1988 Bronco Custom, 300 4.9L, ZF5 Manual, and the rest is under construction

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They're like the Chuck Norris of engines.
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post #70 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-10-2015, 01:41 AM Thread Starter
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Yet again, had to work another weekend, but guaranteed by the end of the work week, I will have the head and block to the machinist. I pulled the valves and vales springs tonight but still struggling with the egr tube (the little bolts into the head). I broke one of the six and I'm afraid to break more. One came out with no issue though. Is there something I'm missing on how to remove them??? They seem like they just want to crush anytime there is any pressure on it to break them loose even with some PB Blaster soaked on them. ANY SUGGESTIONS WILL HELP!!

Other than that, there's one bracket to take off, the spark plugs, and the head is gone to get work done. The block only has the oil filter and freeze plugs and that's on it's way too.

As far as the the SMOG crap, that is gone for good, but still debating the EGR delete. I might keep it on because of the recirculation of exhaust gases to help with MPG, but at the same time, the route I want to take this build is not going to be the most friendly to fuel with the forced induction and 42" tires..

Edit: also, I'm just leaving the frame alone for the time being. It's in shelter with the body, so I'm not worried about the weather but just don't have motivation to work on that when I can build the engine, trans, and transfer case over winter and have those ready for spring when I can actually work on the frame outdoors.

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post #71 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Alright, just an update. Tomorrow, I'm bringing the head and block in to work and throwing it in the parts washer and then they are off to the machine shop. They'll be gone for about 2 weeks max according to their schedule and everything I'm having done. I did scrape off a majority of the grime though just for shits and giggles to see all the casting marks and was surprised at something that I found...

Here's some casting marks that were under about 1/4" of grime..



Then I found this towards the front of the block under the grime.... I tried to clean it up best I could, but it's obvious it's been on there a long time.



So I'm guessing it's been rebuilt at some point in time? Just shocking since I've talked to the 2 previous owners (the first guy was the original owner) and neither of them did anything with the engine and the second owner only put on a lift and swapped it from the C6 auto to the C4 auto. Unless someone has any insight on this because I've tried to look it up and came back with nothing.

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post #72 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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No doubt about it now. Dropped off the block and the head at the machine shop and mentioned the tag I found. So we went and measured the bore. found out it's already been bored 20 over, so we're going to bore it another 20 and have some fun. Getting it magnafluxed, bored, honed, new valve guides, resurfacing both head and block, and quite a bit more. Then, once I get around to ordering the new valves, I'm taking the head back in to get the valves seats machined properly and I should be ready.. I also plan on getting EVERYTHING balanced.... once I get the call that everything went "ok", I'm going to start ordering the internals.

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post #73 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-13-2015, 10:51 PM
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What internals do you plan on buying? I have a rebuild 300 with .010 main and rods some mild head work and the biggest cam for the engine(crane) I've thought of the idea of turbo, but I run long tubes and just love the sound of it
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post #74 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-14-2015, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Honestly, I'm waiting to hear word from the machine shop before buying anything, but I've been trying to find ANY company that builds forged pistons for the 4.9L, unless it's possible to steal them from a different engine that has a 4.040" bore? If not, I guess I'll go with the hypereutectic dish pistons with some forced induction. more aggressive cam, hydraulic lifters, try to find some roller rockers, and quite a bit more. I'm planning to take the ccrank in and have it shaved down to a perfect balance along with the pistons, rods, etc. As far as the outside, I want some headers for it, but if a run a turbo, I'll have to rethink everything for the exhaust, however, a supercharger would be less of a hassle and could run the long tube headers. Idk right now, I've still got a few weeks before I find out anything for the block/head...

How does your bronco sound/run with that tall of a cam and headers?

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post #75 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 88LiftdBronco View Post
How does your bronco sound/run with that tall of a cam and headers?
It's actually on my mud truck, an 88 f150, to be completely honest, I run open headers as of now, and don't plan on changing it, but it sound AMAZING, very loud tho. This engine was my true first build by myself so I kinda knew, kinda didn't know what I was doin but the performance I got out of the cam was un real, it really opened the engine up, Also bought the correct lb. V.S. To go with the cam. I 'did' mild port work to the intake and head, but more harm than good? Beat me haha. The machine shop taught how to cut a competition VJ so all my valves are at within a thousands of a inch of each other. I'll do some diggin for ya in some of my truck note builds and build books and see if I can find the specs of the 300, why keep it to myself if I can help someone make theirs even more badass, but without the mistakes I made :

'92 5.ohhhhhh 35s are to small
'88 f150 mudder Rollin 40's welded F&R
'Building' 1996 Impala ss
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post #76 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for looking! Ya, as far as machining, I'm just letting the pros with the expensive machines do that lol. But I've been just sitting here at the computer all day looking at parts.. From engine parts, forced induction, axles, to suspension.. My head hurts a little. Especially with thinking of the 4 link and designing that in my head with having the measurements in front of me.

But I was thinking of doing a port and polish and free up a little more "flow" through the engine. I'm very interested to see what numbers you were pulling/what products you put into, cuz I'm having a little trouble finding anything. 302 and 351 parts are everywhere (being a v8) but there's really not that much for the I6. Just a bunch of the same part/specs but with a different name.

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They're like the Chuck Norris of engines.
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post #77 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Started putting together a parts list that I've been leaning towards, just seeing if anyone sees anything that's "off" that I might be missing as of right now.. the cam is supposed to be ran with a 8:1-9.5:1 compression, so I should be fine right there? hydraulic lifters, roller rockers (forgot to add to cart), intake and exhaust valves, timing gears, and I can't find any pushrods on there, so I'll have to look somewhere else or go to smith bros. here in town and see if they'll build me some (they build pushrods for everything, including a lot of nascar teams) Can't find a crankshaft anywhere, so I might have to reuse my old one and take it in to be worked on. also, I'm still trying to figure out the whole piston problem because no one carries forged pistons for this engine. But oh well, here's the list so far..


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post #78 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 09:27 AM
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I've never been an engine man, so I can't help you there. It's curious about the previous owners saying they didn't touch the engine. Why would they lie?

Is .040" a lot to bore? I assume at some point it gets sketchy.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #79 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
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I have no idea why they would so that's why I was confused on why I found that sticker. But you can bore the 300 .060" over before its too thin and start having issues. .020" and .040" over is really common.

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post #80 of 178 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 06:37 PM
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Have you looked at Clifford Performance for parts? They have been doing performance 6-cylinder stuff as long as I can rememebr.

Jack Clifford' Performance Products inc. - Headers Intakes Cams For Inline Six Cylinder Engines, Inl
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