Sparta reconstruction... (slow build...maybe) - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 178 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Sparta reconstruction... (slow build...maybe)

So, I know I've been MIA for the past year or so, but I've made some major improvements in life and it's about time to start transferring those improvements to the bronco.

As far as the last time you guys have seen me, it was probably around the time of the car accident. The car I was driving cracked its fuel rail and leaked onto the manifold. Caught fire while I was driving down the road and was a total loss. Ended up with 2nd and 3rd degree burns and couldn't work for about 3 months until the skin regenerated and even then, it was very sensitive around hot vehicles... Well, I quit my job at Jiffy Lube in December due to management not doing their job in preventing alcohol in the workplace and within 10 hours got hired at Oil Can Henry's making more money... Again, lack of management caused me to be disgusted with working there. I randomly got a call from Subaru asking if I could come talk to them, so I obliged. I walked up and the service manager came out immediately and greeted me before I was even on the property. He asked me about my experience and without hesitation offered me a job making even more money with exceptional benefits. So again, without hesitation took him up on the offer. So I've been working as a tech at Subaru of Bend, doing half the work and making almost twice the money. Can't complain about that!

As far as the bronco goes, she got a few upgrades that I'm proud about.

She had an issue driving home one night. All of a sudden, my voltage dropped to 10 and my battery light came on. by the time I got home, it was at 8V and wouldn't start again. That's right, alternator fried.. after $425 and 2 weeks of build time and shipping, I had a 291A Mechman alternator in my hands.



and in the truck



Then back in December I had an issue with the wheel bearings. Complete mechanical failure on the 24th of December with it starting to snow...



And taking her home the depressing way



and back up on all 4



Then decided I needed to add a second battery, isolator, and 1/0 gauge wiring to keep up with my stereo due to all of this being added.















And with the 4 subs, 2 4200W amps, 2 batteries, ect. I decided to go to my first stereo competition. However, 2 days before the comp, one of my 12's blew, one of my 10s tried blowing DURING my run in the competition, and I had a low end kicker 12 in one of my 12's spots, AND I still ended up bringing home first place in my class. (The guy holding the monitor is one of the competitors lol)





Then I got tired of my old offroad lighting and spent some money on the LED light bars and washed her finally. Was $220 for both 7.5" bars with the full wiring harness.







Now that I'm back up to date with some of what's been going on, it's on to the build.





I'm finally getting to the point of moving forward with my plans, but I've tweaked them a little. The Bronco already got swapped from an auto to a ZF5 so that's not an issue anymore.

Plans are to pretty much rebuild the entire bronco.

UPDATED - 10/4/15

Dana 60
Sterling 10.25
5.13 gear ratio and possible air locker
Rebuild the 300 (bored 40 over with a turbo and upgraded internals)
Rebuild transfer case
Rebuild transmission and get the bellhousing fixed
Take it to bare frame and put rust prevention in place
42" Pitbull rockers on beadlocks
Full paint
Full interior reconstruction
Tint to 15% on the door windows, 5% on everything behind it
Full sound deadening throughout the cab
Roll Cage
Front/Rear bumpers and rock sliders
A set of half doors and a regular set
and whatever else I can think of along the way.

I know it is a lot of work and Have already looked into pricing so I know what I'm getting into as far as that goes. Knowing how to do a lot of it and being able to do it myself cuts down about half the price.

I've already located a complete Sterling 10.25 for $350 and rebuild it completely for another $460. Typically people around here want $1200 for an incomplete used 1 ton axle. I'm in the process of getting the Dana 60 as well.

Anyways, I'm picking the axle up next Wednesday and already have new doors for it. Just need to get it going.

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post #2 of 178 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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As far as the axles go, I decided to go with a LS in the rear and an air locker for the front and possible 4 link front and rear. Also decided I'm going with on board air, adding a/c to it and removing all the SMOG junk. The smog compressor (?) isn't hooked up anyway so it's just taking up room I could use for other additions.

Then, out of curiosity, since I'll be swapping to 1410 u joints, if anyone has information on it.... How do you swap the output on the tcase to hold the larger u joints.

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post #3 of 178 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 02:19 PM
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Good to see you back at it again man! Can't wait to see where she goes from here.
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post #4 of 178 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Salt! it's definitely been a bit since I've logged on but I have cyber stalked the forum here and there. Just had a lot going on and got distracted from the site.

Fortunately though, my new luck (or I guess skill since they heard about me and wanted me there) with working for Subaru has put me in a better financial situation that I can actually progress with her and treat her like a lady should be treated lol. Hopefully the build won't be too awful long to complete because I'll be missing driving it the second I put her under.

Also, she's known all over central Oregon since she's one of a kind around here and about to be even more of a one off kind of bronco

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post #5 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Another question for when I am at the part of putting the front axle under Sparta. Would I need to add a track bar with it or would the 4 link accomplish the same goal at keeping the axle centered? I know the 4 link is more for articulation and axle wrap, but it seems to me that the 4 link would also stabilize it and keep it centered as well

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post #6 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 06:28 PM
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Congrats on your job and the win . I like the plans you have for the build. What kind of subs/speakers?

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post #7 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
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Congrats on your job and the win . I like the plans you have for the build. What kind of subs/speakers?
Thanks man!

As far as the stereo, I'm upgrading to full competition subs/speakers. I'm swapping from 2 10" and 2 12" VM Audio Encores to 2 8" and 2 15" PSI Platform 3 subs. I have a 291A Mechman alternator, BLU1200 Kinetic battery for the main and HC3800 Kinetic battery for the stereo, all 1/0 gauge wiring, AVH-X2700BS Pioneer double din head unit, going to 3 way component door speakers front and rear, sticking with the 2 4200W VM Audio amps for now, and adding in a 4 channel amp for the door speakers. I'm halfway sound deadened in the cab right now, just need to rip everything out and finish it up.

The 2 8" subs have already been built and are in Wyoming (last I checked the tracking number) and the 15s havent been ordered yet. The 8s have carbon fiber cones and upgraded soft internals with 8 gauge wiring. Cost me $458 for the 2 and the 15s will be around $1200. The components (depending which company I decide to go with) will range from $200-800 per set.

In short, I have a lot of money already dumped into the stereo and it's just getting more thrown at it. I'm planning on being the loudest in central Oregon and already have a reputation at all the car audio shops for being one of the loudest around here. I know with the 2 10" and 2 12" I'm right around 148 db/spl and I'm trying to be 155+ after all is said and done.

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post #8 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-02-2015, 08:28 AM
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Another question for when I am at the part of putting the front axle under Sparta. Would I need to add a track bar with it or would the 4 link accomplish the same goal at keeping the axle centered? I know the 4 link is more for articulation and axle wrap, but it seems to me that the 4 link would also stabilize it and keep it centered as well
Very cool Bronco and love the stuff you have done Keep up the great work. As far as the 4 link, I am not an expert, but you would need a triangulated 4 link to not have to run a trac bar. For the rear that would be easy enough, but in the front could be a challenge due to the engine crossmember, oil pan, etc. There is alot of info on the web comparing the benefits and design considerations for the different types. To me the radius arm/ trac bar is one of the easiest to build and get handling properly.

Here is a link to RuffStuff's page of 4 link kits. They also sell 3 link kits.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...LINK-KITS.html
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post #9 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-03-2015, 04:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info Getting There. Like I said, I was just looking for ideas and thoughts on what would be best for the front. I do appreciate the link since they have a ton of interesting stuff on there!

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post #10 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-05-2015, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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So things didn't work out today with picking up the sterling 10.5 since the guy was only in town for an hour, so we arranged to pick it up tomorrow on my lunch break. However, yesterday a couple packages showed up and I've been admiring them in the mean time.







The 2 PSI 8" subs







And I couldn't go to work today and visualize the subs, so I brought one with me so I could look at it at work lol





But I found out about a week ago that there's a bronco roundup on the coast so I have to make one final trip with Sparta before her operation. So I'll be throwing the 8s in the bronco for the time being and after I get back, I'll begin the teardown. slow progress at first until I figure out what to do as a second vehicle. The Trooper has the engine partway pulled, but even then, it'll take a little bit to get her legal and running. So, I might be without a vehicle to drive until that situation is fixed. Anyways, here's the mock-up of the modified 10's box holding the 8s. 1.8 Cu. Ft tuned to 38 hz





I'll update a little more when I get the axle home tomorrow.

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post #11 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-08-2015, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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So it's been a couple days since I bought the axle, but here's the update.

It's an 89 f350 rear axle so it's drum brakes on the rear. Plan right now is to swap it to disc brakes, 5.13-5.38 gears (haven't decided which one to go with yet), do a truss over the pumpkin with the brackets to do the 4 link, still deciding whether to coil or leaf spring it, powdercoat the axle (after all modifications are done), and then rebuild it with upgraded internals/a limited slip


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post #12 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 09:32 AM
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Then, out of curiosity, since I'll be swapping to 1410 u joints, if anyone has information on it.... How do you swap the output on the tcase to hold the larger u joints.
You know you will have to get custom driveshaft because the Sterling is longerup front. So if your doing that, you could just get a 1350 flange on the front of the DS. The 1350 and 1330 flanges have the same bolt pattern. You will probably never bust a 1350.

On the front axle, I highly recumend the Superduty D60. Get a 2005 or newer. If you check my project, you can see how I mounted it. It was very easy. (Almost bolt on.) First I used the stock (SD) arms and later I made my own from rough stuff parts.

The three link or four link will flex good, but you probably want sway bar(s). On my project, I made the front "pinable", so it handles like radius arms when pinned. Note, radius arms act as sway bars on a solid axle. They do not on the TTB.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #13 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-09-2015, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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On the front axle, I highly recumend the Superduty D60. Get a 2005 or newer.
As far as the axle, I need a D60 pre metric bolt pattern. I don't want to be running 2 different bolt patterns/rims.

Then, upon looking up info on the sterling 10.5, Everywhere I look it pops up with a 35 spline and the only aftermarket gears come with 31 or 30.. Confused on that part as of right now. But I HAVE decided to go with the 5.13 ratio. It'll be a 78:1 crawl ratio and at 70 mph, the rpms will be at 2100. So, I should still have power and fuel mileage a little bit lol.

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post #14 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 07:31 AM
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I thought all the Sterling 10.5s were metric. (Mine is) I think the 10.25s were the 8 on 6 1/2". Maybe there were a couple years that the 10.5s had standard. In any case I would just look for the later axle with discs. I'm pretty sure all the disc ones are metric. The reason you want the 2005 and newer D60 is it is set up for coils. (Not leafs) Also the early version had trouble with unit bearings. The newer ones have bigger unit bearings that solved the problems. If your set on the standard pattern, you could get a later axle and have the hubs drilled for it.

All the sterlings axles are 35 spline. I think you are confusing the pinions. I think they are 31 spline. The axles plug in to the carrier, so it doesn't matter what splines the axles are. You just have to have a carrier that excepts them. ( I think you can get 40 spline axles/carriers. $$)

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #15 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-10-2015, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Oh ok. Ya, I was a little confused because the aftermarket gears kept showing pinion spline as 30 or 31 and on the info sites for the axle, all it said was "spline - 35". As far as metric or standard, I'd prefer a 99+ D60 but if the rear is standard, I don't want to have to buy 2 different sets of rims to make it work. Too much problems doing it that way. But I'll look at it when I get home and see what I'll have to do about it. Thanks helirich!

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post #16 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Started tearing down the Sterling tonight. Not going to make a ton of progress, but at least it's a start. Here's where I'm at as of right now.

3.55 gears still in good shape


spider gears still doing good












Just curious what this hole is for... I'm guessing a breather vent for the housing? It's on the top of the driver side axle tube.


My plan is to get at least one axle shaft out before heading to bed and then finish the teardown tomorrow after work. Then sell the internals for whatever I can get for them on CL.

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post #17 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-12-2015, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Well... that was easier than originally planned lol. Chilton made it sound so difficult than it actually was.















And I found out the hard way to clean out the housing before taking pics... Accidentally dropped my phone into the used gear oil and it was completely covered... luckily it still works fine and still takes good pics. As you can tell, I have towels in there soaking it up lol



I'll try to finish the teardown tomorrow.

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post #18 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-12-2015, 12:12 PM
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I just got done doing this. Make sure you clean out the ring gear holes with "brake clean" and use lock tight. I was told to use shouldered bolts from a D70. But I didn't. Crossing my fingers.

That vent hole also holds the brake line "Tee". I think I got pic. I'll look.

Check out my "Molasses Project"http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197652
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post #19 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-12-2015, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. well the gears that came out of it are 3.55 and an open diff. I'm replacing everything and going to 5.13 and an LS

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post #20 of 178 (permalink) Old 08-17-2015, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
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Might as well make one last trip before tearing her down... so here's the pics from it.





(forgot how to embed videos onto the thread)




Found this beauty on the beach














She has more pics of it on the dunes, but I wasn't able to get them immediately. I'll add those in this post later on

However, I did get the pinion pulled, ring gear off the carrier, and also did this





Much better approach angle, but it's just one step of many to the full teardown. I'm planning to get the bronco ready to have the body off this weekend then pull the engine, trans, and tcase.

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