1978 bronco ranger XLT revival - Page 5 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #81 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-04-2015, 10:44 PM
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Great job on the welding, not sure i have the patience for that type of work.
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post #82 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Waiting on other parts I decided to take a stab at the passenger floor pan. By the time I started chasing rust I ended up with this



Some cutting and trimming later of a full patch panel got me here



I am still not sold on welding them solid. I tried a bit and it only lead to problems. That being said the welder I am using may be to big for this. I assume you guys who weld them solid aren't using 350 amp machines with .045 wire in them. Tomorrow I am going to drag out one of our 250 amp welders and load it with smaller wire so I can turn it down more and maybe not burn through
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post #83 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 07:44 AM
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Gary did a good job in his thread. Take a look at his approach. Scoop's 78 Bronco Custom Build/Restore


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post #84 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kanuck15 View Post
I am still not sold on welding them solid. I tried a bit and it only lead to problems. That being said the welder I am using may be to big for this. I assume you guys who weld them solid aren't using 350 amp machines with .045 wire in them. Tomorrow I am going to drag out one of our 250 amp welders and load it with smaller wire so I can turn it down more and maybe not burn through
I have found that welding thin sheet metal at work with our 200 amp Miller loaded with .035 is not much more difficult than my 185 Lincoln and .025 at home.

I can't tell from the pics whether your joints are butted or lapped. I have only ever done butt joints on autobody repair and feel I have developed a very good feel for welding panels.

Three suggestions that I think should help.

One: when I start an arc with a mig, especially on thin sheet, I give the trigger a very short tap prior to my tack or bead. This heats up the wire prior to welding and all but eliminates the stuttering that can occur on a cold start on low settings. Think of it as morse code a dot followed by a dash...very close together.

Two: pulsing the trigger. No solid beads here, get your tacks to the point where they are about half an inch apart before you join them all up, and pulse as you go. With practice you'll get the feel of how frequent to prevent blowout but hot enough to maintain penetration. Once you have solid tacks to start your welds from it gets much easier.

Three: I find that flattening out lengths of copper tubing and screwing them to the backside where I have access will help support any gaps and makes a great heat sink to cut down on warpage. You can keep reusing the copper until it's swiss cheese from all the screw holes. Of course filling the screw holes afterward is extra work but not to hard.

I hope this helps...easier to show someone how than it is to explain. Your work is looking good so far, with some practice and perseverance you'll get to be an expert with what you have available.

Allan
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post #85 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 01:47 PM
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I picked up the cheap air-crimper/hole punch from harbor freight, so I was able to over-lap and spot weld, then finish it up solid.
While I agree with the idea that the OEM used spot welds... the point made earlier about where it's being applied and sealing are huge and I still sprayed the piss out of the underside with bed-coating to keep it all sealed and fresh as long as possible. my patches were on the '73 F250 that I primarily use for plowing... so moisture, heat, corrosion were all heavy considerations for my job.

It's a lot of work to just leave exposed to potential issues. When I re-do something... I want that sh!t to outlast me.

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post #86 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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I found a miller 250 and threw some .0350 in it. It works but I basically have to trigger the whole seam rather than weld it out. Regardless I welded the floor pan solid and it worked out ok so I redid my first patch. It's still a serous chore to weld them in without burning through
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post #87 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 05:48 PM
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true enough Kanuck... but it's all effort that pays off in the long run.

"When life throws you a curve... LEAN INTO IT!"

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post #88 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-06-2015, 08:52 PM
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you will be glad you solid welded them

I use my small 120 mig, I can weld solid pretty much i none shot without too much heat,but I have also ran a couple million miles of mig wire through my machine in the last 20 yrs too
when I weld,i keep an airline and blow gun to cool down sensitive areas soon as I lift welder
in time you will be able to fill in trim holes in body panels with zero warping
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post #89 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-09-2015, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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I wish we had a smaller machine here. The miller 250 is it unless I want to use a 110 volt gasless flux core machine. Somehow I think having backing gas and solid wire is better

Either way tonight I am getting the driver side floor pan fit in, once my phone turns back on I will post up some pics
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post #90 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 01:17 PM
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I wish we had a smaller machine here. The miller 250 is it unless I want to use a 110 volt gasless flux core machine. Somehow I think having backing gas and solid wire is better

Either way tonight I am getting the driver side floor pan fit in, once my phone turns back on I will post up some pics
I ran out of gas one time and tried it without. Didn't like it at all.
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post #91 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-10-2015, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Pics as promised



Finally took the top off, found a lot of bugs and some more rust

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post #92 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-11-2015, 01:22 PM
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just curious... on those larger patch panels, did you get them in without any "pop-can" looseness? Not sure if your familiar with how to heat shrink that metal and tighten the panels up enough to get rid of that. I had to do about 3 spots on my drivers side after the patch work. looking good though.

You plan to re-pad/re-carpet or going with a bed-liner spray or roll-on?

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post #93 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-11-2015, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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The panels are actually pretty thick. No rattle noise like I expected. But no I'm not familiar with the method you speak of

As far as flooring I will be using a bed liner, followed by sound deadening material, lastly with new heavy padded carpet.
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post #94 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-11-2015, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Also, Friday night shot. I am starting to think I need a life outside of my work shop

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post #95 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-11-2015, 08:47 PM
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the "pop-can" effect I'm talking about is basically when you step on and off that floor piece, will it "pop" up/down with the weight.
it doesn't have to be much... infact, it usually isn't. Anyway... if you have that problem, you can take a torch, heat a small area until it's just starting to turn color.
Then take a soaking wet rag out of a bucket of cold water and slap it on the area you just heated up. The rapid change from hot to cold will "shrink" the metal and reduce the "pop".
You can see I did it to 3 spots, just under the gas pedal on the F250.
Just felt around, pushing and letting off until I found the "center" of the area effected and shrunk it up right there.


If you don't have it... great job. If you do... it's not a big deal to fix with the cold rag, heat shrink method.
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post #96 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-11-2015, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Centralized heat quenching. I know the idea just under a different name. I don't think I will have to do this but I will check to be safe.

So I'm at a moral dilemma, my DD needs tires. I have a set of pizza cutters on steel wheels in great shape. Id like to buy new 35s got my aluminum wheels but that's 800 some odd dollars. I'd much rather buy my lift kit and a few other odds and ends for the bronco. Just not sure if I can handle my truck sitting on crappy wheels and boring tires
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post #97 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-19-2015, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Got the floors finished up in the front. Still have a few odd spots to hit by the rear seat. Going to need front cab supports and still needs rear quarters. But now for the bombshell, I'm selling the bronco. It's just not the project I want. When I first bought it I chose between redoing a bronco or buying a corvette. Well now that I'm into the bronco I realized I'd rather have the vette. I'm not in a hurry to sell as I may change my mind but if I do finish it then I will sell it and get a vette.
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post #98 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 01:06 AM
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awwww. sorry to hear that.

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post #99 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 12:47 PM
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post #100 of 165 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 01:19 PM
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Getting a Vette will cost you a lot - you'll go broke buying gold chains!!
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