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79 Darth Bronco Build

19K views 89 replies 21 participants last post by  schwim 
#1 ·
I won't be putting in a diesel, making a 6 door Bronco, or even a frame off (well, maybe in the future ;) ). What I do plan on doing though, is to slowly build up this 79 to be a decent daily driver. I want it to look good, but priority is making it a good runner mechanically so it is reliable and safe, last are the cosmetics. I'm already using it as a daily driver, so I can't have much down time right now.

I'm a pretty big Ford fan to start with. The late seventies trucks are my favorite body style of all time. I had a 79 F250 but sold it as I also had a 2004 F250 at the time and just didn't use the 79 much. I also had an 85 Bronco in the past and liked it, although it had been beat on and was in bad shape and ended up selling it.

For awhile I kept looking at craigslist at 78-79 Broncos. Ended up finding one 5 hours away. A couple of weeks ago, wife and I decided to take a little road trip to go check it out. It was very complete, and virtually rust free. It had a rebuilt C6 and 205 transfer case (about 2 months before I bought it). New dizzy, and some other misc parts.Settled on a fair price, handed over the cash, and drove it home 300 miles.

Although it made the drive, it needs a lot of work. Rear axle is in bad shape. Lots of air drafts inside with rotted out weatherstripping. Needs driveline rebuilt. Needs rebuilt carb. Blower motor doesn't work. Carpet is shot. Missing rear interior panels. Canopy has 2 bolts holding it on. Hood hinges are shot. It has some hacked up fan shroud on it. Steering box is way sloppy. Parking brake doesn't work. etc.

Some pictures of the day I got it...












 

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#8 ·
First thing I had to take care of was the rear axle. Ended up needing a whole new 3rd member. I ended up having a shop do this as I needed to get this done quickly and I don't have any experience with axle internals. This quickly resulted in doubling the cost of the Bronco.

It's mostly Yukon parts with Timken bearings, with posi lock.

 

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#9 ·
Shortly after, I took it to a rental shop and installed new shocks. For the rear, I ended up going with Monroe's Sensa-Trac that have a coil over spring for a little extra spring for towing/hauling. I figured for the same price as the regular Monroe's, and that I do plan to do some towing and hauling (a jeep, snowmobiles, etc.), might as well try them out and help the 37 year old leafs.

I've changed shocks before, but never felt so much of an improvement before. Don't know how long the old ones were on, but they were sure shot.









 

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#10 ·
Parts started to come in. Lots of work ahead of me. Carb/tune up stuff, brakes, flowmaster 50 (not pictured), tach, rear leaf bushings, all new vacum and fuel hoses, and all weatherstriping for both front doors.



 

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#13 ·
Got a new driveshaft today. After fixing the rear axle, I still had some bad thumps and clunks when stopping/starting, shifting in and out of FWD/REV, and on/off gas. Checked out driveshaft and slip joint was flexing and rear ujoint had slop.

So dropped it and put it in front wheel drive mode and dropped off the driveshaft at Drivelines NW (they've rebuilt a couple others for me in the past). Ends up it was shot, even the center pin. Cost between rebuilding mine and a new one (that they build their in house from USA parts) was about $30 so I just went for the new one and kept my old one as backup or lawn art or something.

Man, what a difference. Can come to a stop without a clunk now. No vibration on freeway. Etc.











 

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#14 ·
If you're going for daily driver status I would highly recommend fuel injecting it. Use some Price Motorsports adapters and use the OEM Ford EFI from a late model Mustang. Really cheap and literally transforms the vehicle, not to mention makes it so much more reliable - you can ditch the distributor and run EDIS8 too.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I was actually looking into getting EFI. I didn't know about that route though. I've not really done much reading yet as I'm not expecting to do that for awhile, but so far was looking at FiTech GoStreet 400 HP. It looks easy to do with no scavenging, but spendy at about $1200 for everything (TBI unit, new intake, and fuel system).

Do you have more details/pointers on your suggestion?
 
#16 ·
It somewhat depends on what sort of look you're going for, but if maximum torque and efficiency are your goals then you should take a serious look at the modern aftermarket EFI manifolds for a 351W or even 302/5.0L. Price Motorsports makes very nice adapters to accomodate a 351W EFI intake on a 351M/400. Several manufacturers make nice 351W manifolds, but only a few are tuned for high torque at low RPM. Edelbrock makes a nice one and Ford used a GT-40 lower on the early Lightnings that work well with the upper from a Cobra, Lightning, GT-40, or late Explorer.

With that out of the way, you can run OEM fuel rails from a late model EFI 351W or jump for some fancy billet units available from everyone it seems. You can choose your injectors (I'm running Ford 24 lb/hr units and am happy with around 300 hp). Russell makes special fittings that adapt OEM Ford EFI fuel rail fittings to AN. I'm using -6 AN hose for my fuel feed and return.

The fuel tank pickup will need to be modified, but I ended up modding the OEM pickup/sending unit by simply adding a return port to it. Using a Walbro 190 lph external inline pump with reusable AN filters on each end for filtration. While I was inside the tank I installed a new pre-filter "sock" that I sourced from NAPA.

Going back to the induction, a 65mm throttle body is adequate and easily sourced from 2nd gen Explorer/Mountaineers. You can use the MAF housing from those donor vehicles as well, although any MAF you can adapt can be used as well, as long as you're able to obtain the transfer function.

As for programming, you'll want to source an '89-93 V8 Mustang computer (EEC-IV, GUFB strategy), or even a CBAZA strategy from mid 90s Mustangs, or even a CDAN4 strategy EEC-V from a '96+ Crown Vic. I ended up using the computer and wiring harness from an '89 Mustang 5.0L, but there are some benefits to running EEC-V and that is a separate discussion. I believe Painless Wiring and several other manufacturers sell complete EFI wiring harnesses you can use, although a good junkyard harness works fine too.

Programming is achieved by using a J3 port device, such as a Moates F3, Moates Quarterhorse, or Tweecer RT unit. TunerPro and Binary Editor are good pieces of software used to edit and flash calibrations to your computer of choice via USB port. I would highly recommend getting rid of the archaic distributor and replacing it with a cam sync sensor to enable true sequential injection and EDIS ignition.

Nobody has the time and mileage behind their EFI systems like Ford does. The first EEC came out in 1978 and they've always been fully programmable and way ahead of their time. No aftermarket system comes close to running the engine smoothly like it was tuned at the factory. EEC-V boasts the ability to control the EFI, EDIS8, MSD, dual independent computer controlled cooling fans, A/C, and several computerized transmission options in one box. :thumbup
 
#17 · (Edited)
the only problem with adapting a windsor intake to a modified is the thermostat. windsor are on the intake and there heads have water jackets that aligned to the passages in the intake, the modified engines do not, water comes out of the block into the thermostat. There are no water jackets in the modified intakes.
 
#18 ·
Yes, this is correct. It's easy to cut off the water neck on a Windsor intake however, using a heavy flap disk mounted on a 4" handheld grinder. For this reason, it's better to find a used intake for a good deal rather than a brand new one that will immediately be butchered up!
 
#19 ·
Some amazing info on the EFI conversion, thanks Shaker!! Got it copied to my notes for when it becomes time to get into EFI, as this looks like a good option. I just slapped a rebuilt carb on it last week and is running good to tide me over for awhile.
 
#20 ·
No worries. I was carb'd and distributed for 10 years before biting the bullet. Main reasons were cold starts (in Canada) and poor fueling at altitudes other than where the carb was tuned.
 
#21 ·
Got a few hours to work on it a bit this weekend. The blower motor hasn't worked since I got it, and driving with almost no heat has gotten old. :)

So I started by pulling the cover under the dash off. First unexpected issue was that the air box was half filled with leaves and crap. Upon further inspection, the vent box under the fender was full too. So started by cleaning it all out. Wow there was a lot.

After that and having access to the blower motors wires, I ran power directly to it and it worked fine. Checked the fan speed coils, they were good. Traced things down and found a burnt connector. Pulled it apart, cleaned it, put it back together. Also disconnected all the left over AC stuff. Turned the key on and the fan worked great, all speeds. So not sure if it was the connector or removing the AC stuff.

The Bronco spent most of its life in Arizona, so outside of the leaves, everything under the dash and inside every vent was caked with silty dirt. So spent a lot of time cleaning. I replaced all the foam gasket of the air box cover and vent/recirculating door, and put it all back together.

I then cleaned out the driver's side vent which was also stuffed with leaves. While there, also put in a new electronic flasher as the old thermal one was blinking way to fast even though all bulbs were good.

Took it for a drive, and the heat felt so good!

Not great pictures, kept forgetting to take them.

This came from the air box and vent box on the passenger side.


This was form the drivers side vent.


Didn't get a picture from when I first opened the air box, but this is after some of the cleaning. The blower motor and heater core seem to be replacements and not original.


The speed coils were good. This is the kind of silty dirt everywhere.


Cover cleaned up and new rubber seals installed. No more cold air draft from the airbox.
 

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#24 ·
I was surprised too. I'm a little surprised they are not more accessible to clean. Driver side I have to take parking brake bracket off, passenger side have to remove air box cover.

Once thing I noticed now that it's been a couple of days, is there is an odor that is no longer there, that I didn't really realize was there until it was gone. The bottom of the cowl vent boxes was moldy wet decomposed debris.
 
#28 ·
Not much new. It's my daily driver. Having a problem with it not running very well. Replaced ignition module, coil, etc., will try new fuel pump this weekend.

But today I got new hood hinges installed. Old ones were very worn and could not be adjusted enough to get back of hood to sit flush with body.

Took about 10 minutes to swap each one out, then about an hour to adjust them. I still need to do a bit of adjustment, but waiting for new rubber bumpers and the weatherstrip seal along the cowl, in case I need to do any adjustments after I install them.













 

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#30 ·
Nothing much lately. Actually, Darth is in the shop right now. Having a fuel problem that's been getting worse. Tried a ton of things and installed a bunch of new stuff. Finally left me stranded. Had it towed to a shop where it sits waiting for them to look at it. Finally gave up and will let the pros at least diagnose it.

Anyways, a couple random recent photos. The one of it on ramps being worked on, was about an hour before it died on side of a road.


Putting on a new fuel pump. Didn't get any shots of the new pump. But heh, it's a new pump, whats to really see besides it being clean.


My son Diesel already itching to drive Darth. :thumbup
 

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#33 ·
Haven't done much. Got truck back from shop and I'm ordering a new fuel tank and sending unit tomorrow.

Did get new rubber bumpers installed in the hood (all 4 were missing), and replaced the missing weatherstrip that's between the hood and cowl.



 

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#35 ·
Thanks!

Steering wheel is a Grant 457 Club Sport with a Grant Ford logo horn button. I used Grant install kit 3249. Search google/ebay/etc for best price. I was into it less than $100 with the installation kit, wheel and horn button. I've had this same model wheel on 5 vehicles now. I like the feel, it's cheap, and looks pretty good.

No, original factory wiring harness on it. It's in good enough shape right now. Later, I may replace it if any gremlins start popping up.

No idea yet about the wheels. I do know I want wider tires. I have been tossing the idea of making a General Lee Bronco, if so, that could weigh in heavy on wheel choice. :)
 
#36 ·
Got a new tank, sending unit, filler & vent hose, emissions breather valve, etc. ordered. So dropped the tank today...






I sense a problem here. Could this be why my fuel gauge doesn't work? ;)


Not sure what these look like normally after several years, but this looks fairly nasty.


Some stuff, rust?, in the pickup tube.


Once the fuel dried off the filter, you can see it's pretty junked up. It was also deteriorated. It crumbled like eggshell.


Had to remove it with about half a tank of fuel, so this photo is looking through half a tank of gas. Lots of chunky sediment. Also looks like some kind of coating on the inside is starting to come off.
 

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#37 ·

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#38 ·
Finally. Got the new tank installed today. Drove it 100 miles and ran like a dream. Not a single hiccup, backfire, stumble, etc.

One thing I have to say, two of the part I got from JBG wouldn't work. The sending unit lock ring & rubber gasket, and cheap ass piece of shit breather vent.

The sending unit fit and works great, but the lock ring and gasket are wrong or defective. The gasket is way too thick. And, it wrong diameter and doesn't sit down in the gasket groove. So no way to get sending unit to sit low enough to get lock ring under the tangs. But even if I had, the lock ring's ears (the part that go under the tangs) are no ramped and don't have any dimples to lock in place.

And the breather valve, what a piece of crap. It's way chincier construction than the factory one. When I pushed it into the grommet, the metal piece on the bottom (which is like tinfoil and way to large for the valve body) popped of and fell into the tank along with the internal valve and spring.

So ended up using the old breather valve with new grommet, and new sending unit with the old lock ring and gasket (glad I didn't throw any of it out).











 

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