DD/Beater Build! - Page 3 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #41 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 01:11 PM
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could of gotten a 96-97 explorer gt40 head 302 from junkyard.
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post #42 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Not worried about it, the 302 is junk anyway (cracked block)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bnkrtstk View Post
It was great catching up with you, it felt like old times rummaging in the garage for parts.
Yeah man, good times. We gotta get back in the habit of taking over each others driveways turning wrenches, its been too long


Progress pics!

Got the bronco in the driveway


Pulled whats left of the motor


...and stuffed the bronco into the garage!
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post #43 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Got my rear diff cover the other day. OEM Ford piece ('08 Superduty), same one I run on my F250:





Degreased it, then shot it with some clear so it wont corrode. Did the same on the cover on my F250, and that's looking good years later.




Also, more parts!




These are B-Code Superduty leafs, that I picked up off bnkrtstk Saturday

So I did some research on these things, this is what I came up with:

Ford Bronco 78-84 1390 5 leaf
Ford Bronco 79-93 1650 (202/276) 4+1 leaf
Ford Bronco 94-96 1650 (230) 4+1 leaf
Superduty:
B code 98-04 2998 (320/670)
C code 98-04 3626 (350/730) - dually
F code 98-04 2695 (334/776)

What does all that mean? 1650 is the spring load for a 96. 230# is the deflection, which is ore or less how 'stiff' the spring is. The B code leaf has a load of 2998 (with the overload) meaning it can carry ~1300# more than a stock bronco leaf. But, the deflection is only 90# higher w/o the overload. The second # (670) is the deflection with the overload, which I am not currently planning on running. So it should be a touch stiffer than stock but not by a whole lot. My guess is, adding an AAL or whatever else I need to do to raise the rear 2", will probably make the spring pack stiffer than the B Codes. So hopefully this works out, but I wont know for a while yet. My current plan is to strip & rebuild the front end and then drop the motor in, to see what ride height looks like. Then after all that is done, ill tear into the rear end and get the axle & springs swapped.
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post #44 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ugh mandatory OT is nice on the wallet, but hard on the body.

That said, progress!

Stripped down both sides and yanked knuckles off


Goodbye 3.55s


Junk pile


So many parts missing!


Cleaned up the driver side and painted! Shame im gonna have to bolt the TTB back into this


Tomorrow I hope to get the passenger side cleaned & painted, and if im lucky, get the pivot bushings replaced.
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post #45 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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God dammit it happened again!

Special thanks to bnkrtstk for finding this gem, that i snagged up & drug home during a snowstorm yesterday



One '97 F250, with a recently rebuilt 351 under the hood


Apparently the motor was rebuilt maybe 6 months before the truck got wrapped around a pole. The motor looks clean, no oil, grime, nothing. New pan, valve covers, new water pump, lots of parts that are obviously not very old. The block looks clean.





So, new plan. Yank motor/trans, and park truck in stones til spring. Take 351, slap a couple things on it, and drop into bronco. It is a SD 351 so I'll still have to use the 302 harness/PCM unless I can find a used MA PCM online somewhere. Probably reuse the ypipe, it at leat part of it when I drop it in since the original one won't work.

Ill probably sell trans??? 2wd so who knows if its worth anything. The bed on it is pretty clean, thinking of using it to replace the smashed bed on my F250 after i paint it. Of course, it ALSO has a 4.10 LS rear in it, meaning i pretty much just shouldnt have even bothered buying the other parts truck but oh well. Trying to decide if its worth taking the '97 10.25 and stuffing it under the bronco in place of the '90 rear (not sure if its worth the effort to swap rears just for the 'long' pinion when its only a 351). Id like to keep the white truck a roller til spring, meaning if i put the '97 rear under the bronco, the '90 rear must go in its place.
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post #46 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 02:42 PM
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Something about cleaning and painting parts makes me happy so keep it up!

I thought I could leave the rust alone on my frame when I ripped my 9" out. Next thing I knew I had a 4.5 grinder in my hand
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post #47 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Man, i am the same way! If its apart, might as well clean & paint it.



So Monday I went to town, and yanked my new(er) motor out of the donor truck. Moving an engine hoist around on a snow covered driveway in single digit weather sucks!



Today I pushed the truck down into the stones where it can sit til spring; the bed, once painted, will go on my F250. Plus, spare rear with 4.10s! I listed the other ('90) 351 on CL and got several offers on it, so that will probably be sold with the next week

So Tuesday I got back at the bronco, and got the passenger side cleaned & painted


Then today after moving the F250, I went to town on the TTB, and the D50 inner shafts


I will probably be working on a coworkers truck tomorrow, but if not, I will split the TTB shafts apart for prep & paint. After that, ill finally be ready to start putting parts back on the bronco
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post #48 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 02:44 PM
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nice..although it's gotta suck working outside in that weather..I'm freezing my a** off just looking at it..
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post #49 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-12-2017, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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Not gonna lie, it sucked
Moving the hoist around in snow is a huge pita. But rolling the truck to it's new parking spot yesterday morning was super easy with the driveway covered in a sheet of ice

But now I'm done stripping stuff, so everything else can be done in the nice toasty garage
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post #50 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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TTB is hung once more!


Not shown in that pic, is the 4.10 D50 chunk bolted in, along with the front dshaft hooked back up.

Chevy vs. Ford stub shaft
(Ford on top)


D.side shafts installed, modified knuckles with new balljoints, adjustable camber bushings, and the chevy spindle


Bam! 8-lug



Then I got stalled out. Not sure whats going on here.

Here is my brand new Superlift leveling coils from Bronco Graveyard. This pic does not do it justice; the lower coil retainer will pull right thru the bottom wrap on the spring


I don't understand. I bolted the coil to the lower mount on the TTB arm, tightened it down, and then proceeded to grab the coil and take it right off the arm I dont know whats going on here, but this doesn't seem right. Of course I took the OEM coils to the scrap yard (along with a whole bunch of other stuff) so I cant compare it to the stock coils. I guess ill have to call JBG Monday.
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post #51 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Little bit of an update.

Got a TTB coil to compare the Superlift coils to. Yeah, something isn't right


Talked to JBG. They said every set they have is made the same way. In agreement they wont work. So I shipped them back today for a full refund.
SO, now I need coils for the front. Well, since I got those SD leafs from bnkrtstk, I said **** it, and ordered the 2.5" kit from Tuff Country

So yeah, TTB is back out


Sucks because i could have had the front end done today, and now im gonna have to wait until next week I guess, when the kit arrives. Thinking for now ill start removing the 4WABS.
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post #52 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 11:57 AM
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that's a bummer..especially having to take the TTB out again..
maybe it's a sign...
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post #53 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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I know, right? I was talking to a buddy about it; its easier to sling a D60 under it at ~3" of lift than it is a D44

BUT, I really don't need 3 one-ton Fords in the driveway, and thus far im only $1100 into this project (including purchase price). Going D60 would double it. And im sure 5 years from now ill be sick of the TTB and do it anyway This project has already snowballed pretty badly; I wanted it on the road for winter, now it probably wont be on the road til after winter.
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post #54 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-17-2017, 02:46 PM
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Was there any noticeable difference in the inner shafts between the 44 and 50 TTB?

Bummer on the coils. At least they realize the problem and are refunding you. So far JBG has been pretty good to me in terms of prices, service and products.
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post #55 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 02:52 AM Thread Starter
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Every D50 shaft is bigger than it's D44 counterpart, along with the u-joints. However, the two shafts in the middle will interchange with the D44. So it's a cheap way to upgrade the D44 to a bigger/stronger u-joint in the middle. This is actually a really old trick for beefing up the D44, from back in the days before FSB was even around. Do a search on D50 Stub Shaft Upgrade, I'm sure there's a full write up on it on here somewhere.


Yeah I've had nothing but good service dealing with JBG over the years. And truthfully, the 2.5" kit is probably the better option anyway, since the drop brackets will help greatly with getting it aligned.
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post #56 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reptillikus View Post
I know, right? I was talking to a buddy about it; its easier to sling a D60 under it at ~3" of lift than it is a D44

BUT, I really don't need 3 one-ton Fords in the driveway, and thus far im only $1100 into this project (including purchase price). Going D60 would double it. And im sure 5 years from now ill be sick of the TTB and do it anyway This project has already snowballed pretty badly; I wanted it on the road for winter, now it probably wont be on the road til after winter.
We're not getting a winter this year apparently.

95 XLT Stock
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post #57 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 12:04 PM
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Not much of a winter here, more like soggy foggy nastiness.
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post #58 of 102 (permalink) Old 01-18-2017, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Pretty much the same weather here. Gonna be almost 50 today I think. No real winter but that's ok with me, less snow to shovel.
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post #59 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, update time!

I took some time away from working on the truck, to source all the parts to put the 351 in. Which I now have.
Add in some other things along the way and I lost a bunch of time, but still, progress!

lift kit installed:


D50 stub shafts in place


front end complete!




stock pitman arm, next to a 4wd F250 arm


All new Moog TREs, courtesy of the Bronco Speed section. These are supposed to be the ambulance prep Van TREs. Beefy.
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post #60 of 102 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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...and now to delete the 4WABS


Chop up some brake lines


Then remove pump & bracket


the 'brains' of the operation


and a shitload of wires!




The 4 loose wires get spliced together to complete the speed signal. The rest of em in my hand? Useless!


Yup, that looks way better.


Weight reduction



And now for Phase Two:

One-ton Master & Booster


a spool of Copper-Nickel brake tubing


a couple of these!


...and shazam! No more 4WABS


That pretty much catches me up to today. I went to put tires on the front, and realized the chevy wheel studs are too short Hoping I saved the studs from the F250 I parted out, otherwise ill be buying 16 new studs Im gonna do some general cleanup in the garage tomorrow, and see if I still have em. Odds are I wont have time to swap the studs until next week. Next week's plan is to lift the rear & swap the 10.25 in., and then do a ton of bleeding to the brakes. At least, that's the plan anyway.
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