1996 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 03:50 AM
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I was thinking about doing keyless entry and remote start in mine.
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92 5.8XLT,
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about doing keyless entry and remote start in mine.
Depending on what a place quotes you, i think the keyless entry at a minimum is a must. The remote start is a nice luxury, but not a necessity. I knew a guy, so I got very well taken care of. I love having it.
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 09:05 PM
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My feeling exactly on the support brackets. My solution was to repair the old ones. I was really pretty easy, expecially if you do it on the truck. I was told it couldn't be done. Mig welder and two sizes tubing that cost around $15-20. Split the larger for patches, use the smaller to drive inside where there are complete rust gaps. It worked and is out of site so patches don't matter.

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-03-2017, 10:50 PM
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yea, unfortunately bronco prices seem to have skyrocketed. I had a 93 eddie bauer back in 04 that I got for $1000, and got that thing to 300,000 miles without a hiccup.
Good point on the values shooting up.


I bought my '94 Bronco in 2002 for $2100 from a wholesale dealer in Draper, UT.

He had it on eBay for $3995 and I was the second highest bidder at $2300. He PM'ed me if I wanted to buy it at my highest bid because the auction ended with no winning bid. I told him I would if he took the cost of a one-way flight from Boise to SLC. He agreed; and as it is said, the rest is history ! My Bronco was very clean and completely stock, including original factory shocks (With 170,000+ miles)!


Now; If I were to buy the same conditioned Bronco, the sons-a-be's would be $5,000 to $9,000!
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-04-2017, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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My feeling exactly on the support brackets. My solution was to repair the old ones. I was really pretty easy, expecially if you do it on the truck. I was told it couldn't be done. Mig welder and two sizes tubing that cost around $15-20. Split the larger for patches, use the smaller to drive inside where there are complete rust gaps. It worked and is out of site so patches don't matter.

Chipmaker
Unfortunately, my drivers side bracket is so far gone, a new bracket would be the only way. It would take more work to repair this one than fab up a new bracket entirely. The PO has hanging straps and wire holding the running board on
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-08-2017, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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Since my last update, Replaced both radius arm brackets and bushings.


Rust bullet, sound dampened, and replaced door weatherstrips. Cleaned up and regreased the tailgate motor, new tailgate belt weatherstripping, and sound dampening strips in the tailgate access panel.


New Boss stereo head unit with motorized LCD screen, wired up with a backup camera that comes on in reverse.



New LED 3rd brake light and LED dome lights installed.



Repaired the wiring to the passenger side vanity mirror.


Repaired the drivers side arm rest.


LED courtesy lights, nice clean look


Unfortunately, then I discovered the rust in the rear of the truck. Much worse than I originally thought. The passenger side floor is completely gone back there. I cleaned it up a little and sprayed with etching primer, figured it was better than nothing for right now. I cannot tackle that for a while.

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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-09-2017, 07:51 PM
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driver seat armrest

Did you have to completely disassemble the driver's seat to repair the arm rest? Mine is floppy but not as bad as yours was. I was afraid if I went after the torx nut inside the arm rest that it would break the captured nut in the seat back and then I would be SOL. Mine's a 96 as well. My rust was limited to clogged cowl drain on driver side caused massive rust hole under driver side wiper arm that caused moisture in driver cable run under the sill plate. Underneath I have rust in the back corner supports under the truck but nothing that has manifested itself like yours yet.

Bone stock, 228,000 miles, 302, E40D trans. grey cloth interior.
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Did you have to completely disassemble the driver's seat to repair the arm rest? Mine is floppy but not as bad as yours was. I was afraid if I went after the torx nut inside the arm rest that it would break the captured nut in the seat back and then I would be SOL.
I did not disassemble the seat. Just removed the torx bolt, and the arm came off. There is a wire/spring that runs the length of the armrest that you have to get back into the channel is a pain. I was lucky that the metal plate was not broken, which is usually the cause of the broken armrest. I just put it all back together and its great now. If the plate is broken, you may have some welding to do
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Since the last update, I riveted some thin sheet metal over my gaping floor hole in the back for now. This should keep any critters and salt from the roads at bay. I only got 1 of the 2 front bumper support brackets installed today. They are so badly rusted, the bolts are difficult to remove. I may have to cut the other side out. I got new u clips and bolts from ace, so putting it back together was a breeze.


Replaced the rear shocks today with Rancho 7000s. The ride was noticeably better, but still feels like a truck. My tools used to go flying over every sewer cap lol.


Going to LA tomorrow, then Cedars-Sinai Friday for my evaluation!!!!!
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-25-2017, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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Got the driver's side running board off and what's left of the bracket. Old bracket next to new. Had to swap out the plate under the fiberglass and repair some of the fiberglass too. It'll be nice to have a usable running board again
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post #31 of 34 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Got my drivers side shock and bumper mounts swapped out. Installed a Moog steering stabilizer. Also put 2 quarter turns on the steering box screw. The truck drives SO much better. Not sure if much more will get done, as I should be moving soon. Got approved at Cedars-Sinai for their heart transplant program!
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post #32 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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So, my wife and I moved to the west coast to be closer to the hospital while we wait for the call. We had the truck shipped out here. So far, I drained the torque converter and tranny, new tranny filter, and new fluid. Shifting much better now. Finally got a working under hood light harness! lol It took 3 harnesses to finally get one that worked. There are some good pic-a-parts out here, so I have been collecting more parts than installing lol. I would like to swap out my rusty parts for clean SW parts piece by piece. I want to grab a few rear bed patch panels from a donor vehicle, as well as the rear crossmember that supports the back of the bed, as mine are rotted out. I am still trying to troubleshoot the cruise control.
Eventually I also want to do new front hubs, seals, rotors, pads, calipers, etc. New driveshaft w/u joints. POR 15 the floorpans and frame. sound deaden the floors and walls.
I have also been spraying down the trailer hitch with pb blast daily. That thing is beyond rusted on. Ill keep doing it for another few days. If the bolts dont break loose, I will have to grind them off, or find someone with a torch.
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post #33 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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As you can see, my tranny pan was dirtier and filled with more gunk than your mom on a sat night
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post #34 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 03:15 PM
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Bronco Info: 1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L, 4" BDS radius arm lift, 35x12.5's, Bassani headers, K&N CAI, Warn manual hubs
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Love it! Good luck with everything!!!
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