'92 utility hauler - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BikerPepe` View Post
sounds like she's coming right along.
I'm waiting for things to dry up a little more before I hit the yards.
I figured we must live close by when I read that in the email notification, and sure enough! It was dry-ish this morning, but then the rain returned with a vengeance...just as my tune-up parts start trickling in. Engine work may end up having to wait till next week.

I got a fair amount done today, although frustratingly slow progress. Taking out all the hardtop bolts (twice, counting the junker) and reinstalling them is surprisingly tiring. Then again, everything wears me out these days. I got the dash all put together and one side of the cargo area mostly done, having to add a number of holes where the side panels don't match the trim my truck came with.

Toward the end, I broke off my drill bit in the wall and may have to take it all apart again if I want to get it out. I can't get at the tip of it with needle nose pliers. I also worked on extracting the two hardtop bolts the PO snapped off, but haven't quite gotten those spinning yet. I'd like to do that now before putting all the window trim on.

I realized I probably should have grabbed, or at least paid attention to, the rear speaker cages at the junkyard. I'm thinking mine don't line up quite right with the side panels now.

My title was supposed to be mailed out a week ago but hasn't showed up yet. I called Copart today and after about 20 minutes of looking into it, the guy said he would have to call me back. He never did. I should have received it 4-5 days ago. They better not have screwed that up.
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post #22 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 09:58 PM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, I was talking shop with the guy at the junkyard today when he asked what I was working on. I mentioned it being an ex-forest service vehicle, which made him perk up. He said those are really tough to come by. He at first poo-pooed the rarity of my 4.10 LSD before realizing what I meant, then said he's yet to see one of those in his 30 years there.
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post #23 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:00 PM
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I always tell them I'm working on an f150...just in case they want to raise the prices for a bronco. Haha
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post #24 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:26 PM
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I think you are good to go with the spare rack. You can check for yourself by removing the tail light. I had to reinstall mine because the PO filled the holes with bondo.
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post #25 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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I always tell them I'm working on an f150...just in case they want to raise the prices for a bronco. Haha
Probably a good strategy in general, but the guys at the yards here are real easy to deal with. I didn't realize this yard isn't a u-pull, but he let me go out and look around. I told him I would make a list of anything I found of interest before pulling stuff, to which he gave me a price. I ended up leaving behind a few of those things but grabbing more value in other stuff, but he stuck to the original price quote.

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I think you are good to go with the spare rack. You can check for yourself by removing the tail light. I had to reinstall mine because the PO filled the holes with bondo.
Awesome, thanks. Ah, the tail light... Maybe that's what I did at the other yard when I was able to look in there and see the bracket, not from within the cargo area like I was thinking.

The bondo actually wasn't nearly as tough to get out as expected. I used a center punch to poke the middle and pop most of the chunks out, then a combination of the punch and a phillips screwdriver to work the rest out of the threaded section. I followed that with a wire brush and then threading a bolt in and out a couple times.

I'll probably have to buy a new catch (#F2TZ1469A) for the tailgate, since the guy I bought the carrier from sold the whole tailgate to someone else previously. I doubt I'll luck out and find someone willing to sell just the catch unless I run across one at the junkyard, but at least they're only $40-50 new.
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post #26 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:47 PM
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$50 sounds reasonable ,considering you even found one!
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post #27 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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$50 sounds reasonable ,considering you even found one!
Well, I found listings for them. Whether or not anyone has one in stock is another matter...
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post #28 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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- Tailgate lock cylinder was missing, and my dash switch is defective, working in only one direction. I found a spare tailgate cylinder yesterday and checked with a locksmith about getting a key made for it ($35; can't key it to my key because it's from an '86 with different key profile), but am still hoping to get a full matched set this weekend.
I meant to come back to this yesterday. While reading the owner's manual, which I didn't have until the weekend, I was surprised to learn that FSB's came with two separate keys: one for doors/ignition and one for tailgate/glove box. So, there's no such thing as a full matched set unless modifying them. Although, even that might not be possible. The '86 tailgate lock I picked up has the reversed keyway from my '92 locks. I assumed that was a generational change, but now I'm thinking it's the case for all tailgate/glove box locks, to make it obvious the wrong key is being used.
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post #29 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 04:10 AM
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I was wondering why my 88 has 2 sets of keys one key for doors/tailgate and one for the ignition. I guess I wont bother trying to figure out how to get it down to 1 key. I guess I could always just make it a push button to start.

also, I was going to install a tire carrier on mine, im making it daily driveable and unless I get a pick up, its also going to do all my hauling and somebod told me that if I planned to use it for hauling stuff where I might want to put the tailgate down, like a sheet of plywood, then I couldn't do that with the swing out tire carrier. and I got to looking at it and realized that it really would limit me on what I could do with the tailgate down. I don't know if anyone has any experience with this, but If its going to be used for hauling stuff where you might need to put the tailgate down, you might want to reconsider the swing out tire carrier.
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post #30 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 11:13 AM
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Made quite a bit of progress so far. I've always like the forestry green painted vehicles. What part of PNW are you located at?

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post #31 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Made quite a bit of progress so far. I've always like the forestry green painting vehicles. What part of PNW are you located at?
It's an acquired taste... My first thought was "hideous," but now I'm sort of wishing it wasn't painted over. I've got the sloppy patch marks on the roof where a yellow service light would have been. Between that and the mint green paint, I would never get pulled over!

We might just be neighbors...

I remembered the "work smarter" mantra and punched the broken drill bit through instead of trying to extract it. That side of the XLT interior is pretty much done.







I haven't decided yet if I'll install the trim up the B-pillar, over the door, down the A-pillar and across the windshield header. I sort of like it blue-ish in back and black up front. One thing I don't care for with the Bronco interiors is they're just one solid color (at least all the ones I've looked at). Dash, seats, carpet, headliner, panels and trim... I'll definitely paint the tan horizontal dash inserts once I settle on colors. I like the silver of the XLT trim.



Dash reassembled with new elements.


I tried to install the XLT cargo light but ran into a few problems:



The obvious one is the different shape -- it's designed to attach to the headliner, not clip into the hardtop like the cap my trim level came with -- but I think I found a workaround to that. Its shape follows the top's contour pretty well, so it could be attached alongside the hole.

However, I couldn't get the light to turn on (bulb looks okay), so I'll need to check if I've got power to the wires. I assumed so, given that they're there and they match the plug for the light. Worse yet, the switch is absolute garbage. I got it to move on the first try, then it jammed up hopelessly. I took it apart several times and couldn't figure out why it was binding. If I can get power to the connector, I think I'll just cut up the light and use its pigtail to wire up something more functional.

Edit: It's not just me suffering from a jammed switch...

Rear Top Dome Light Question
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post #32 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Today's rainy forecast gave way to sun, and I had a bit of free time before a meeting, so I tackled re-doing of the plastic vacuum lines with silicone hose, in advance of tune-up parts arriving tomorrow.

In addition to the early discovery of the black line from the coffee can reservoir having a ~6" section cut out of it (that I temporarily patched for trying to get the engine idling), I found today that the green line (EGR) was broken in the wire loom. That could perhaps explain the #332 CEL (Insufficient EGR flow detected) I got when pulling codes, although I was thinking more along the lines of a clogged EGR pipe.

The other code was 539 = A/C or Defrost on during KOEO, which seems odd. I thought I had the fan off, but maybe not.
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post #33 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fodder View Post
Today's rainy forecast gave way to sun, and I had a bit of free time before a meeting, so I tackled re-doing of the plastic vacuum lines with silicone hose, in advance of tune-up parts arriving tomorrow.

In addition to the early discovery of the black line from the coffee can reservoir having a ~6" section cut out of it (that I temporarily patched for trying to get the engine idling), I found today that the green line (EGR) was broken in the wire loom. That could perhaps explain the #332 CEL (Insufficient EGR flow detected) I got when pulling codes, although I was thinking more along the lines of a clogged EGR pipe.

The other code was 539 = A/C or Defrost on during KOEO, which seems odd. I thought I had the fan off, but maybe not.
You're a very brave Bronco owner haha, I'm scared to even peek at the codes my truck is throwing. Better off not knowing probably

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post #34 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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You're a very brave Bronco owner haha, I'm scared to even peek at the codes my truck is throwing. Better off not knowing probably
I might shy away from that if it were already running and I didn't want unnecessary worry, but since I'm trying to get it running, I look at all such knowledge as another weapon to take into battle!

All my tune-up parts -- everything but the spark plug wires which won't arrive till Monday -- are coming in today, hopefully before dark. The throttle body is sparkly clean, the IAC cleaned up, the PCV valve tested and cleaned, and a few more hoses replaced. I'm dying to know if it'll run now with all that...

I called the Copart lot again this morning about the title.

3/13, the lady told me the title was there and she was putting in the mail.

3/20, the guy had to search for my info for 20 minutes, then said he would call me back, which he never did.

3/22, different guy instantly knows who I am by phone number, and when I confirm my name, he says immediately that the title is there. He then says, "it will be $10 to mail it out, is that okay?" I tell him no...I paid to have the truck delivered and am just now being told two weeks later that there's a fee to mail the title, with no mention that I wouldn't get it initially? He hesitates for a bit and then says he'll go ahead and mail it out. I assume they're just disorganized and not running a small scam. If it wasn't such a big entity, I'd be getting fairly nervous.
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post #35 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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FedEx package #1 arrived after lunch, so I got to work on changing out the spark plugs. It's nice not having to disassemble a bunch of intake and valve cover stuff to get to them, but boy is access limited in spots with header heat shields and what not. The old ones weren't looking so good...



I had planned on popping the old wires back on so I can fire it up today or tomorrow, but the boots were crazy hard to get off even with a puller, and one of them started tearing at the elbow. I question whether I can get them off again if I reuse them. Ten days to get the new spark plug wires is agony. :(

That package also had the new TB and IAC gaskets, but the new TPS was coming in FedEx package #2 on a different truck, so I had to wait several hours for that. Just as I was finishing up the spark plugs, it showed up! That's all put back together now, other than the intake which I left off for easier distributor access. And just as I was putting that stuff away, the UPS package arrived with my cap/rotor and ignition coil (plus a bunch of towing stuff). I have another hour and a half of light, but I'm pretty tired, so we'll see...

Here's what I came up with for a temporary tailgate latch for the spare tire carrier, until getting a proper one:



It's obviously insufficient for holding a wheel/tire in place, but I wanted something I could bungee or zip tie the carrier to while [hopefully] driving it this week, keeping the carrier from swinging open.
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post #36 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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I swapped the old, cruddy tipped generic ignition coil with the new MSD one, then jotted down the wire order on the old Motorcraft distributor cap (coil wire and #8 had quite a bit of crud; a clue?) before calling it a night.

After finding several contradictory firing orders, I confirmed it was set up correctly here. The MSD 8482 cap doesn't have #1 marked, though, which is puzzling. I assume it's the orientation that would have the "MSD" logo be legible from the front of the car. That would put the little black cap/vent thingy halfway between #1 and #8, which sorta makes sense as marking the beginning and end of the sequence.

Edit: Here's the same thing I'm talking about:

Need Help with MSD 8482

My above guesses would seem to be correct.

Edit2: Actually, my guess was dead wrong. It turns out, there's a notch on just one side of the cap, and only one way for it to line up...with the MSD logo upside down.
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post #37 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Feeling pretty deflated today.

First up was the discovery of a major coolant leak.

I decided to work on something far removed from the engine, running a new dome light wire bundle from a '93 F150. My driver's door plunger had one wire corroded off and one partially soldered back on, and one of the wires in the connector up to the dome light were severed. How it still worked with the passenger door open is beyond me.

Side note: To my surprise, the models with dome-only and with dome/map lights have the same two wires. I assumed there would be a 3rd wire, with one being always hot (for the map lights) and one being switched by the plungers. I'm guessing one is hot, one is switched, and there's no ground wire -- it's just body ground?

The F150 has the exact same connectors and wire colors, but with two additional wires in the empty slots for the 3rd brake light behind the cab. (There's a hint how to wire up a 3rd brake light for Broncos that are going topless for extended periods.) What I didn't count on was the wire being a few inches shorter than the Bronco's. Is our roof higher? I ended up having to fish the other end of the connector through the little access hole behind the door plunger (driver's plunger is at the back of the door on '92, not the front) and up to the back speaker access hole, which of course meant taking the side panels off again to uncover it. I had spliced the F150's non-corroded connector on with just enough extra wire to reach up that far.

With that plugged back in, I reconnected my dome light and the passenger door triggered it as before. I excitedly checked the driver's door and...nothing. WTH? I even used the F150's better condition plunger. There must be another wire rotted somewhere in the circuit. I feel like it would almost be better at this point to just buy a new wiring harness and start from scratch.
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post #38 of 42 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:05 AM
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I have no clue... but I'm interested in the outcome. my new2me '95 has similar behavior at the dome an partial disassembly has revealed a few lights that got way too hot, which I'll be replacing soon.

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post #39 of 42 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 01:31 AM Thread Starter
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I have no clue... but I'm interested in the outcome. my new2me '95 has similar behavior at the dome an partial disassembly has revealed a few lights that got way too hot, which I'll be replacing soon.
I'd recommend LED bulbs if heat is an issue. You'll probably get better light output, too.

After a dinner break, I decided to attempt ending the night on a good note... I installed one of the chrome dome/map lights to see if my repaired wires would get the map lights working now. Sure enough, I fixed that aspect. That answers the confusion stemming from this old post of Steve83's:

Quote:
The 3 mounting screws hit your original terminals in the roof perfectly (unless you originally had the cheapo dome with no map lights).
The holes still line up on models that had the cheapo dome. It just uses a different hole for body ground, but they're all there.

So, with that working, I tried out the next step: installing the nicer Mustang light. Happily, that worked too. And yes, it is much, much brighter than the chrome Bronco/F-series one. Now to build a base so it sits flush against the roof, and see about getting some #578 LED bulbs for it.
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post #40 of 42 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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I forgot about this post: upgraded dome light... info for those interested >>

So yeah, body is ground, black/blue is the door switch, and green/yellow is hot. That makes sense, because my green/yellow wire is the one that was rotted out.

I did my re-wiring in a way that the connectors would be higher up and not sit in pooled water by the seat belt reel. That and I tossed the yellow-insulation-in-a-bag(s) that contributes to water pooling.
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