As I said the floors are in great shape. With the exception of a small area in the passenger foot well, this little bit creeping through the bed floor pinch welds is all there is for rust topside. The floor crossmembers are also rock solid.
And this boys and girls is why you don't weld patches over rust. You can see the outline of where a large patch was welded over what was only rust around the wheel lip.
This is the full view after the driver's side was removed. From my experience, the driver's side seems to rust out faster in areas where the roads are salted in the winter. To make matters worse, the splash guard in front of the rear tire was missing, accelerating the rotting of the door post and box structure behind the post. The box structure in the rear also rotted out on the side where dirt and sand accumulated next to the quarter panel.
I decided to start with the 'easy' part first, so I tackled the rear.
I started by making a patch to fix the damage. I made relief cuts where the bottom corners needed to curl in and at the break just above the middle.
The patch was then used to trace out the cut lines and the inside cleaned out. It was actually very clean inside and will be coated with Eastwood's internal frame coating when I have more areas ready.
The patch tacked in place. Strange I did not take an after photo but this area is finished and coated in epoxy primer.
Right around the corner at the rear was this area. The bottom of the panel just below where the tailgate hinge mounts was removed to make it easier to repair and access the rot underneath.
Patch welded in and ready for grinding.
The section of panel just below the tailgate hinge mount.