Start of Serious '89 RESTO project - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Bronco Info: '89 Bronco, 5.8, MAF, Summit shorties, Bassani SS, AOD, Tru-trac posi, Stocker
Serious '89 RESTO project....NEAR DONE PICS!!

Hope this is the right forum. I am in the beginning stages of a pretty serious resto on my '89. I wrestled with doing it vs scrap value, but logic won out.

I didnt know if there would be much interest but I figured almost everybody likes a picture show. It might be nice to have input from some of you who have already walked the walk! I have done quite a bit of bodywork in my time but this is the first time for replacing quarters. I also plan on replacing the t/g (and guts), the hood and possibly both doors (skin). Once the quarters are on, I'm considering pulling the tub and doing the underside and possibly the frame. $$ will tell. Like most of you, I like my Bronco and you cant buy new ones anymore.

Wish me luck


3/21/13 UPDATE: Webshots changed formats . I am in the process of re-establishing a new host and updating the old links that resulted in red x disease . I have re-arranged the build album into smaller albums to ease finding stuff. It will take a while to figure out what pics were linked before.



Feel free to ask any questions or make any comments here or on the Photobucket (eff. 3/21/13) photos. If you have a question about anything I did or what you see, post here with the Webshots link or my photo number and I will try to answer. Some of the pics were for my reference and nobody else will ever need them, but they are there if so.

I used mostly NOS - OEM (FORD) parts when I could find them. I got some amazing deals on some, and many came off Ebay. A lot came from the local Ford dealer with whom I developed a nice relationship, and they rewarded me with significant discounts. I gathered parts for over two years before I even started. I had some tough times finding the parts I needed and wanted, but so far, I have found them all. I even have several new "just in case" NOS parts tucked away.

I had a great time doing this and I learned a lot. Hopefully I can pass off some of that here. If you cant find a particular pic that you think I probably have, post up here and I try to find it. Good luck on your projects!
J.R.





000

003

002

012

3/22/13 EDIT: In case it wasn't clear, I removed this much old sheetmetal to replace with complete NOS Ford wheelhouse assemblies. So basically I will be replacing the back half of the truck's sheetmetal.

014




Last edited by j. r. Nice; 03-27-2013 at 02:49 PM. Reason: title
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post #2 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:16 PM
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that's some serious rebuilding, are you doing anything special or just a stock truck?

94 red lightning, blown 408 1.47 60' 10.80@125mph
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post #3 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by badpony93
that's some serious rebuilding, are you doing anything special or just a stock truck?
Right now just planning on basically a stock truck. It looked great after the first go around in 2000, but there was a lot of rust hiding. I missed having a nice rust free appearance, so I took some time to hunt down parts to put it back stock.
J. R.
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post #4 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:27 PM
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is there any rust in the interior?

94 red lightning, blown 408 1.47 60' 10.80@125mph
93 black lightning, turbo 427-- under construction
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post #5 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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is there any rust in the interior?
In 2000 when I bought it, it had a cracked floor so I had a welder buddy put in reinforcement. Now there is rust by the rocker panels (mostly passenger side). There are 4 rust holes where the screw holes for the scuff plate were, how convenient! There's a picture of the holes on the supermotors site.

On the driver's side there is a nice hole beside the rear seat. Fortunately the quarter assembly will fix that.

015

010

Last edited by j. r. Nice; 03-22-2013 at 12:01 PM.
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post #6 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-13-2005, 11:49 PM
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For some tips on the rear quaters...search about the epoxy bond method...I cannot remember who it was I wanna say it was sixliter or something. That realy seemed to be the way to go if you dont want to weld alot of stuff.


Also a buddy got into a accident several years ago and it ended up rolling his z71... we had to replace the cap and bed and while it was off we POR15'd the frame and any under cab area that looked like it may rust. it was fairly straight forward and worked realy, realy well.

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post #7 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by blksn955.o
For some tips on the rear quaters...search about the epoxy bond method...I cannot remember who it was I wanna say it was sixliter or something. That realy seemed to be the way to go if you dont want to weld alot of stuff.


Also a buddy got into a accident several years ago and it ended up rolling his z71... we had to replace the cap and bed and while it was off we POR15'd the frame and any under cab area that looked like it may rust. it was fairly straight forward and worked realy, realy well.
Thanks for the tips. I read the thread on the "glue". I wasnt sure that it would be strong enough to support the entire quarter panel wheelhouse assembly. These arent just the skins, the are the entire quarters. I may contact the mfg and get their thoughts. If I recall it takes a while for the glue to set and gives some time for realignment.

I'm may very well do the POR stuff. I've got a couple gallons of Rust Bullet waiting. I'm thinking of using Rhinoliner underneath. I'd like this to last and be a quiet freeway cruiser!
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post #8 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 12:23 AM
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wow, good luck with all that--it's gonna look killer when you're done

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'95 Eddie Bauer-- 351W, NP435/205, D44 SAS
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post #9 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 12:44 AM
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You might post link thumbnails instead of the fullsize images - it'd be easier on those with dialup connections. This one links to an album of a '75 that I built for a friend.



What's your replica built on top of - a BroncoII?

I've done a lot of work to mine, just not all at once, and never bodywork. When I rolled mine, I threw the body away & bought decent junkyard parts. It was quick & cheap, and looked good enough for me. Click my sig to look thru the various albums. In the My Bronco album, you can find a photo of a reinforcement inside the R quarter panel that keeps the quarter skin from buckling if you forget to latch the swingaway.
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post #10 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve83
You might post link thumbnails instead of the fullsize images - it'd be easier on those with dialup connections. This one links to an album of a '75 that I built for a friend.



What's your replica built on top of - a BroncoII?

I've done a lot of work to mine, just not all at once, and never bodywork. When I rolled mine, I threw the body away & bought decent junkyard parts. It was quick & cheap, and looked good enough for me. Click my sig to look thru the various albums. In the My Bronco album, you can find a photo of a reinforcement inside the R quarter panel that keeps the quarter skin from buckling if you forget to latch the swingaway.

I did the thumbnails thing.....kindofa teaser I guess. But I remember dial up

Replica '66 is on a tube chassis.

I'll peek at your 75.

Dont think I'm going to put the spare on it. I never had the swing away......just the holes! I dont think the new quarters have the holes.
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post #11 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 03:03 AM
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That's not what Steve meant. If you click on his little pic it will take you to another file full of other pics. Don't ask me how to do it, I don't know yet.

there is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people.
Only that in you which is me can hear what I'm saying
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post #12 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 03:14 AM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks......figured it out.......pics link to big pics now!
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post #13 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 03:29 AM
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There ya go. You got a whole lot of work ahead of you, good luck with it.

there is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people.
Only that in you which is me can hear what I'm saying
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post #14 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 04:08 PM
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If you going to do any media blasting, use muratic acid as metal prep afterwards. Just brush on and hose off with water to neutralize the muratic acid. Clean metal will turn gray and rusted metal will turn black. Doing this step will allow no rust to form until you ready to prime and paint. Good luck

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post #15 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by THE R8RZ
If you going to do any media blasting, use muratic acid as metal prep afterwards. Just brush on and hose off with water to neutralize the muratic acid. Clean metal will turn gray and rusted metal will turn black. Doing this step will allow no rust to form until you ready to prime and paint. Good luck
thanks for the tip. Do you need to sand off the gray before priming?
The last time I sand blasted with playground sand and epoxy primed soon thereafter. I noticed some rust (surface) in new places after a while. Probably from not metal prepping the bare stuff.
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post #16 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 09:57 PM
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what part of Ohio you in? I think ive seen that truck at quaker stake & lube in columbus for truck night!

The B'co

All Black 95' 351w,E4OD, 2.5" lift, 32x11.50 BFG's, 3:55
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post #17 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-14-2005, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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what part of Ohio you in? I think ive seen that truck at quaker stake & lube in columbus for truck night!
I'm in Clumus Ahia too! Do you mean the 66 or the 89. I cant remember having the 89 there on a Thursday, but the 66 for sure has been there several times. Once I towed it there on my rollback. Next time you see me introduce yourself!

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post #18 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 02:14 AM
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Good luck Dude,you got alot of work ahead..I recently did 1 of my 89's(check link in sig)was alot of work but the payoff is nice!

Also the "glue" is fine alot of Body Shops use with no problems at all.I wouldnt hesitate at all to put a complete quater in with the glue.I say go for it!Best of luck to ya!
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post #19 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 09:02 AM
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No sanding is required after metal prepping with the muratic acid, unless it is an exterior surface. (lightly) Oh yea, don't use that stuff called Ospho from the automotive paint store, too expensive and weak.

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post #20 of 328 (permalink) Old 11-15-2005, 06:09 PM
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The epoxy-bonded seams are MUCH stronger than factory spot-welds.
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