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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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44 inch tires

Alright.

Since I like the '78-'79 body styles better than the '80+ ('85 was my original thought though), I'm going with a 78-79 Bronco.

However, I am just looking for information at this point, as I am far away from doing this project truck.

I am wondering what will need to be done to fit 44" tires with clearance from the wheel wells as well. Sure a Lift is needed, but what kind of lift kit (or parts) am I looking for? What kind of changes will I have to make (besides the lift kit) to fit 44" tires?
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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:00 PM
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Bronco Info: 1996 f150 300 ci sas/ZF/10.25/8 lug 44 front 37" tire thingys
its going to take alot, read around a bit and see. with 44's you arent going to be running on stock axles. you are talking a min build budget of probably 5 or 6000 unless you have connections somewhere or get the dana 60 for dirt cheap

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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:01 PM
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Is it a mall cruiser or a wheeler? The 1st thing you'll need to do if your gonna wheel it is change the axles, they will never hold up to a set of 44's with heavy wheeling.
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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:02 PM
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45 inches of lift will clear 44 inch tires

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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william_ace View Post
its going to take alot, read around a bit and see. with 44's you arent going to be running on stock axles. you are talking a min build budget of probably 5 or 6000 unless you have connections somewhere or get the dana 60 for dirt cheap
I figured things like that would need to be done.

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Originally Posted by Ranger429 View Post
Is it a mall cruiser or a wheeler? The 1st thing you'll need to do if your gonna wheel it is change the axles, they will never hold up to a set of 44's with heavy wheeling.
Wheeling truck. More for mudding and running through ponds than anything else really. If it was going to be a mall cruiser I wouldn't be doing this.

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Originally Posted by bigbroncojeff View Post
45 inches of lift will clear 44 inch tires
This doesn't make sense to me. Please elaborate.
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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:12 PM
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I havent personally done a lift but I have read a lot about it. The cheap way to go is blocks. You can do a suspension lift or body lift or a combination just as with any truck. Depending on where you are from broncos have different amounts of rust, usually on the tgate and rear quarters. People who wheel typically cut their fenders and it actually looks good (depending on how you do it.) If you plan on running 44's you should convert to a d60 and lockers but don't weld the diff. From what Ive heard it f's up your diff. You can gain cleaence by cutting up the body or doing lifts. Also you might want to change out your gearing from the stock 3:55's or 3:50's. With 44's shoot for about 5:13 or higher? IMO you should look for one with a 460 or put a 460 in it. I was against it at first but I started doing research and like everyone told me.. there is no replacement for displacement.
my $.02!
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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:15 PM
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can you fit them with a 9" lift?

what about 6"??

no body lift and willing to cut the fenders.

running cage arms so it has to flex.
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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bronco_kid78 View Post
I havent personally done a lift but I have read a lot about it. The cheap way to go is blocks. You can do a suspension lift or body lift or a combination just as with any truck. Depending on where you are from broncos have different amounts of rust, usually on the tgate and rear quarters. People who wheel typically cut their fenders and it actually looks good (depending on how you do it.) If you plan on running 44's you should convert to a d60 and lockers but don't weld the diff. From what Ive heard it f's up your diff. You can gain cleaence by cutting up the body or doing lifts. Also you might want to change out your gearing from the stock 3:55's or 3:50's. With 44's shoot for about 5:13 or higher? IMO you should look for one with a 460 or put a 460 in it. I was against it at first but I started doing research and like everyone told me.. there is no replacement for displacement.
my $.02!
Thanks. I seen someone with 5:13s and 44" Boggers and thought that I would probably need a higher set of gears.
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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-13-2007, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncojon View Post
If it was going to be a mall cruiser I wouldn't be doing this.

Yeah, I guess I should of known better because no one else has run 44's on a mall cruiser.

Good luck with your 44's
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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 12:28 AM
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Cut the fenders and run 6" of lift. I was going to run ROCKWELLS 2.5 ton military axles with 49" IROKs and would have had about 15" lift. I needed the extra clearence for the center chunk.


If you don't want to cut the fenders run 52" long 6 or 8" front chevy leaf springs, and run either 56" or 63" long 6" springs in the rear. Swap in a D60/14B or D60/10.25 combo and you are golden.
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post #11 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william_ace View Post
its going to take alot, read around a bit and see. with 44's you arent going to be running on stock axles. you are talking a min build budget of probably 5 or 6000 unless you have connections somewhere or get the dana 60 for dirt cheap
5 or 6000 will just start you off. The amount of money total will be way more.

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post #12 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Fate View Post
Cut the fenders and run 6" of lift. I was going to run ROCKWELLS 2.5 ton military axles with 49" IROKs and would have had about 15" lift. I needed the extra clearence for the center chunk.


If you don't want to cut the fenders run 52" long 6 or 8" front chevy leaf springs, and run either 56" or 63" long 6" springs in the rear. Swap in a D60/14B or D60/10.25 combo and you are golden.
Thanks. That's good to know. I really don't want to cut the fenders, so that's really helpful.
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post #13 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nascarfreak88 View Post
can you fit them with a 9" lift?

what about 6"??

no body lift and willing to cut the fenders.
Depends on how "willing to cut the fenders" you are. A friend of mine had show truck on 44s with a lot of lift - F250 and his mud beast was a 66 box bronco with no lift for low center of gravity for hills and better manueverabilty (good god that's a big word) but hacked the fenders away to clear 44s. That was lots of hacking, but it would outmud us anyday if mud is what you're going for. He didn't have huge hogheads dragging through the ruts and rarely broke any legs or gears. He blew engines if he did anything. 429 SCJ, imagine that. All those I mudded with had tons of trouble, tons of power when good, but easy to blow up.

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post #14 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 12:54 AM
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well on my 79, I fit 38.5s with 4 inches of lift. by my count you will need about 10 or 11 inches of lift total. Dont cut up the fender wells, it will work but itll look really billy'd up.

Dont waste money buying a body lift, a stack of hockey pucks with a hole drilled in the middle will work well. Depending how rusty it is makes a big difference, all of my body mounts were rusted away so I had to make some out of 1/4 in steel. With the body lift you will need longer radiator hoses, easiest way is to cut in the middle and clamp in a piece of black iron pipe.

suspension lift kits it can get pricey and Im sure youve seen the large selection of suspension lift kits available. I did not put a suspension lift on mine so I cant comment on which one is better or worse.

You will need a dual steering stabilizer to keep that thing on the road. I got the rancho dual steering stabilizer on mine for about 50 bucks, you will need to remove the sway bar to install it.
As far as bigger axles, the ford 10.25 is a better choice than the dana 60 although the conversion is a bit harder to do. You should be able to find the ford 10.25 on some of the bigger ford trucks in a slavage yard.

Another thing I noticed when mudding in deep ruts was that everytime I killed my power steering belt. After a couple of hours of driving in deep mud, turning the huge tires in the deep ruts wrecked the belt each time. The only solution I can think of is some sort of hydraulic ram power steering.

good luck
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post #15 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 01:22 AM
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I hope to god you run something more than dual steering stabilizers for on road driving. High-steer is a minimum and preferably hydro assist.

Dude just buy a 14bolt rear axle and you are golden. Better than a rear 60/70/80.

Cut fenderwells don't make the rig look "billy'd" up. That is up to the owner. I've cut numerous fenders and they don't look bad at all.

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After reading the guys post above me. Don't listen to his advice. His is saying to stack hocky pucks for a body lift and to insert an iron pipe for radiator hose extensions, but yet he don't wana make them purdy fenders all "billy'd" up.

Seems like the above poster is a hillbilly himself. If you are gona do it, do it right the first time.
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post #16 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 09:21 AM
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i dont mind cutting the fenders up like on this truck-


but idk what the specs are on that rig, cant tell if they are 39s or 44s on bigger wheels or how much lift it has. But thats perfect right there IMO.



i also have 38.5s on 4" of lift, and they rub off road, even with the stiff ass coils.
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post #17 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Seems like the above poster is a hillbilly himself. If you are gona do it, do it right the first time.
you might be right, but theres nothing wrong with hockey pucks for body mounts. mine have worked fine and actually seem to give it a smoother ride. Sure if you can hack up the fender wells and get it to look good thats fine, ive just never seen anyone do a nice job of cutting out the fender wells. What I mean is I have seen some really terrible jobs of cutting out the fender wells. The ones I have seen looks like someguy just went to town with the sawzall not measuring anything.

black iron pipe isnt a bad idea for custom radiator hoses. Sometimes there isnt anything close to what will work at the parts store with custom applications, and universal radiator hose wont cut it. If you want it to look real nice, send out your radiator pipe extensions out to have them chromed. Lots of people doing custom projects use pipe for radiator hose extensions.

actually NascarFreak, that pic of that truck looks like they did a nice job cutting the fender wells. Is that your truck?

Fate, you got any pics of your own rigs with the fender wells cut?

can anyone tell me how to attach pics? I can post pics of my hockey puck custom body mounts and pipe for radiator hose.
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post #18 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 10:55 AM
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I don't know about the hockey pucks. I'm glad that it is working for you, but anything stacked (blocks, pucks, etc.) is potentially much more dangerous depending on how it's done. I've seen a lot of trucks blow rear U-bolts and rear ends with stacked blocks, too much play I guess.

Body lifts - depends on how you're using your truck. My 95 has one because I bought it and already on it, but as soon as I can afford this 4X4 shop for custom coils and lift - it's gone. My old truck didn't and I don't believe in them for playing - show trucks OK. But for mud, I wouldn't recommend or else religiously check the bolts, bushings, etc. Bouncing through a hole once in a buddies truck and the rusty ass bolts went and basically the body was sitting on the tires and we weren't moving - not fun!

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post #19 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 04:05 PM
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omg, my head hurts.

what a pile of miss information in this thread.

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post #20 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-14-2007, 04:14 PM
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blocks are cheap, but they are not great for going off road. they can be 'spit' out. if you are gonna do a project like this, do it right and it will cost a good bit more than 5k with the tires and everything.

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