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Duraspark Kill switch

4K views 21 replies 9 participants last post by  Ned 
#1 ·
Anybody ever add a kill switch to the stock ignition system?
As in a dash mounted one for emergency use.
I would like to know which wires to tap into, perferably a ground but wouldn't have to be.

Thanks,
CBG
 
#3 ·
after I put the shoulder harness's in I can no longer reach the factory ignition switch, when they are fully tight. that and some of the local bogs require you to have one to run.

I could move the ignition too
 
#8 ·
well one just has to beleive it is unmodified like you have done. And if it was a electric pump with a carb the engine will still run till the fuel bowls are emptied.

most race circuits want the ignition cut.
 
#10 ·
At this point that is looking like my best bet, extended the stock switch wires or interupting one/some, run it through my switch then trough the ignition on the dash, that way the switch has to be on, before the key will start it.

And the whole thick cable is the exact reason why I was asking about killing the ignition instead of the main power.
Its super easy to do on almost any MSD(ish) box (already wires there) so I thought the duraspark module might be easy to do aswell.

And I agree with Jopes on that the fuel is not the right one to kill it, it would not be bad having it kill that too but that alone is not enough.
 
#11 ·
I have a kill switch on my 78 for anti-theft prevention.
It's simply a wire running from the negative side of the
ignition coil to ground, switched through a single pole/single throw
on-off switch.

It continuously grounds the coil and prevents it from firing when the
switch connects the circuit. This works fine for anti-theft,
but not sure if it would be acceptable for racing safety......???
 
#14 ·
the red wire coming out of the dura spark box is the power wire when in "run" mode. if you put a switch in that wire it will shut off the box. the white wire provides power to the box in "start" so you would not have to touch that wire. it would not be very hard to do if that way sounds like an option to you. it would kill the motor but the accessorys would still be on.

less wires to deal with than moving the ignition switch..
 
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