1g or 3g alternator upgrade? - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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1g or 3g alternator upgrade?

I've been trying to figure out which 3g alternator to get for the upgrade because i'm a idiot and can't make decision. I've looked at new ones online and used ones and driving myself crazy about the wirering especialy when I saw a post with the stock style voltage regulator conversion. Then I saw some large case 1g alternators that had anywhere from 100-250amps. The price was a little more for the 1g high outputs. I'm wondering if anyone has used one of these and if not how come. For us 78-79 guys would'nt it be easier just to get a high output 1g? I also understand the money side of things. So is the 3g just a better alternator if the amp output is the same?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 02:50 AM
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have you read through the 3g post in the tech write up section? it's packed full of info. here's a link

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/26658-3g-alternator-facts-its-wins-agian.html

I just got done putting in a 3g, and i'll be honest it was a pain in the ass because i missed a step in the installation process. But, if you get all the right info at the beginning, it'd be a piece of cake. I didn't know there was a 1g with that high of output. If I had known I might have looked at that. Also, I've heard that amperage that high (200) isn't even possible with a single v-belt. something to think about.

also gonna want to look around and read a bit here: http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=7
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 07:52 AM
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I did a 3g swap to my 79 last year, super easy and I might of got $50 into it with 2 junkyard altinators. They tested fine and are simple to rebuild so you might want to try a junkyard.

The one you want is the style my 94gt mustang has. My stang has over 160,000 miles on it and is the original Alt. They are long lasting and easy to wire up. I just followed the thread on here and was done in an hour or two.

79 ranger xlt free wheeler
roll bar, factory cb, lighted sun visors, cruise, tilt, ac, factory air assist, front and rear lockers, built 460, 4inch rancho lift with 2 inch body, rebuilt c-6 with shift kit
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 08:45 AM
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I have tested a 1g with dual batteries at 14.5v at idle and 13.3 loaded. I also have tested a 3g at 14.5 at idle and 14,5 loaded. So the 3g resulted more ability to maintain voltage at a loaded state. I run a 15x winch, aux lights, flash light chargers, and all the regular things in my 78. I think the 3g can recover a drained battery faster than the 1g. I also like the less wiring under my hood. Getting the external voltage regulator out out the way was nice also.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 10:46 AM
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Talking I believe it's a heat thing as well.

I thought I read somewhere that the 1g and 2g alternators had cooling problems due to poor alternator internal fan set up, this is not a problem with the 3g.

I must say there are a few steps required to do the update to the 3g(bracket & heavier wiring + Mega Fuse)( possibly re-clocking of the alternator, which I had to do) but once it's all done it looks factory and works great, so on a scale of 1 to 10 I'd say for effort required to complete this upgrade against the benefits you get from having a 3g alternator it is most definitely a "10".

I think most if not all who have completed this upgrade will agree.

3G 135 amp alternator install
Griffin All Aluminum Rad installed
Custom nerf bars installed
Next MSD TB Fuel Injection install.
.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 02:33 PM
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i did a 3g in my 66 mustang and my bronco will be getting 1 also i thought it was really easy to do and mine were from a 94 tarus and took the wire and plugs with it
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-07-2010, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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O.K. sounds like 3g is a better alternator evan if the amp output is the same right? Has anyone used the factory style voltage regulator that for the 3g upgrade. I saw one post about using it but thats about it. Seems like it would be the best way to go but I have not done it yet either. If someone has any feed back on one of these:

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts...p?idproduct=75

it would help, seems like it would be better than cutting wires or would you still have to do that anway
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 03:37 PM
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The 3G has the regulator on the alternator. It is not hard to remove the original alternator/regulator harness.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 05:03 PM
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BBF. I'm using that & I like it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InfoFord View Post
if you still can't figure it out put it back together and take it to a mechanic
"Under my plan electricity prices would necessarily skyrocket" BHO

Truck was stolen & sold for parts Wheat Ridge Colo Black with Red 2 tone. About $20K in the truck. VIN U15HLEC0170
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-09-2010, 11:15 PM
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Hey BBF. I see you're fairly new here so welcome to FSB. You're also somewhat local to me if you call 60 miles local

Heres my write up on the 3g into my '79.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/6-1978-79-bronco-tech/139544-3g-into-79-a.html

I was intimidated by the wiring at first as well, until i found a step by step with pictures. I read, read, and reread all the posts and just couldn't get a visual on what it was until i saw pictures......maybe I'm a retard

The first one I did was on my '84 Bronco. Then I did one in my '86 Mustang and then my '79. Also installed one in my co-workers '73 f100. Only issue so far was a squeeling belt on the '84. I just made it tighter and haven't had a problem since.

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 02:29 AM Thread Starter
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Colobronco do you think that's the way us 78,79 guys should go? Does that regulator plug right into the factory wiring and then right to the 3g or does that go to the wiring from the new 3g? What's up Olds rocket I was down that way last saturday in Auburn to pick up a nearly complete intierior from C.L. Anyway hope to get some pics posted of my bronco and those seats I just got soon. Thanks for the vote of confidence. I seem to over think everything and then still redo it 2 or 3 times.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 03:07 AM
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OK you still need to buy the pigtail. You have to buy the mega fuse & charge wire (run that to batt side of solenoid). Then that little box plugs in right where the stock voltage reg is sitting now. Allows you to keep your amp meter in the dash. STRONGLY reccommend adding a voltmeter somewhere. I'm running Autometer Phantom. Means no wiring hack. Makes a nice clean install.

Quote:
Originally Posted by InfoFord View Post
if you still can't figure it out put it back together and take it to a mechanic
"Under my plan electricity prices would necessarily skyrocket" BHO

Truck was stolen & sold for parts Wheat Ridge Colo Black with Red 2 tone. About $20K in the truck. VIN U15HLEC0170
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bigblockford View Post
Thanks for the vote of confidence. I seem to over think everything and then still redo it 2 or 3 times.
Better to think about it for a long time and finally do it correctly than to not think about it and f*ck it up. Took me several months before I did my first one. After seeing how easy it really is, I felt like an idiot for not doing it sooner.

You'll need the wiring harness (this can be pulled at pull-a-part with the alternator) or you can buy a new one from Fireguy. I haven't pulled a bad one from pull-a-part yet. If you get the harness from a wrecking yard, you'll need a good charge cable. I used a 4ga battery cable similar to this one http://us.binnacle.com/images/produc...tery_cable.jpg

You need a mega fuse holder. I got mine at NAPA you can also order this from Fireguy. Also need a fuse. I get mine from cars in the junkyards. Lots of Taurus's and T-Birds have them under the hoods on the fuse/relay boxes. 175amp.

If you get everything you need I may be able to free up some time on a weekend and help you do the install. If that happens, I may have to hijack the wifes Honduh as the '79 isn't exactly a fuel efficient beast. Or I may just say screw it and drive the '79.....lol

For that matter, I may be able to meet you at pull-a-part to get everything. I haven't been to the one up that way yet.

Read through my write up and feel free to ask any questions. If there are any additional pics you'd like, just let me know.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Colobronco and olds rocket. Good to know I need the pigtail to. I would have ran the charge wire staight to the battery with the mega fuse intsead of the solenoid. The only gauges (lights) that work on my dash now is the brake warning light. P.O. put in autometers with water, trans, volts and oil presure. So maybe my wiring is gona be a little different any how. Olds rocket thanks for the offer I might take you up on that someday, thats very cool of you to offer to do that.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 08:48 PM
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if your unable to find a mega fuse local and do not wish to order online you can use a fusable link with the proper amperage rating.

'01 F250, 444ci of straight piped oil burning fun. 4x4, 6 spd, GTP38R noise maker, Stage 2 injektorz. Lotsa fun!


Let's Go Fishing.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-10-2010, 09:04 PM
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Napa has the fuse, fuse holder, and wire by the foot. Had to order the holder but it was there in 12 hours.
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