Heater Core Replacement 1978 w/Air - FSB Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
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Heater Core Replacement 1978 w/Air

First time replacing one of these and I did it in two hours using this tutorial:

http://www.ncspecialties.com/autobody/heater/index.htm

I was a bit intimidated after reading posts about ripping the A/C out for good and Haynes manual saying the job was too complicated for home mechanics and techs charging $600 to do the job, etc. I am not a whiz of a wrench turner but I did the job with basic tools.

A good tip I read was to remove the glove box liner and the passenger seat. That helped a bunch. Anyway, I wanted to pass it along to help others who might be hesitant about this job. The previous owner bypassed the core and left it that way for who knows how long. I am glad I'll have heat and defrost this winter!


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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 10:38 PM
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Very useful link. Thanks for sharing.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-17-2011, 10:44 PM
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I know it was not fun doing it in my 86 and I'm going to say it ain't much better on a 79
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 08:15 AM
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Nice, thanks for sharing this.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-18-2011, 09:26 AM
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wow, that's a good link.
The PO of my bronco cut a hole to replace the HC from under the hood then covered it with sheetmetal
I wonder if the thermocouple is installed correctly

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2013, 01:38 AM
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I am guess this is what happened to my box, Its all torn up. How hard is it to replace the whole box under the hood with a used one. I'm not looking forward to this.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 09:01 AM
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What a great link. This has helped me so much. I just replaced my heater core this weekend. Now i have heat again in my 20 degree world lol. Thanks for posting it.

All great ER visits start with this quote: "Hold my beer and watch this!!"
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 11:51 AM
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Yep, that's not a fun job, but when my blower motor gave up the ghost I decided to replace my heater core while I was in there. It wasn't leaking yet, but I figured that this is not going to be fun if it starts and the OE unit was almost 40 years old. The issue was finding a good quality USA made copper/brass core unit instead of the more commonly found aluminum units. Everything I've read about the aluminum units is that they're not lasting as long as the copper/brass core.

'79 Ford Bronco: 408-C6-NP205 SEFI-EDIS8; 4" lift, Dana 44/Ford 9" w/4.10s, locked
'00 Mountaineer:5.0L-4R70W-3.73 gears, stock
'89 5.0L LX hatch: full 90mm Blowzilla blown Dart 304 w/Vic Jr heads + TMoss ported GT40 lower @ 8.4:1
'71 Mach 1: short deck girdled 408W w/stage 1 RHS 215 heads + Vic 5.8 EFI intake @ 10.3:1
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 02:14 PM
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This is one of the reasons why if I ever get a 78/79 I will be ripping all that old crap out and replace it with a complete retrofit unit. They make kits especially for A/C and heat for those years. Its modern technology and works with a new R134 sanden style compressor.

1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
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My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post
This is one of the reasons why if I ever get a 78/79 I will be ripping all that old crap out and replace it with a complete retrofit unit. They make kits especially for A/C and heat for those years. Its modern technology and works with a new R134 sanden style compressor.
I just want to point out that the OEM HVAC system in the '78-79 Bronco is better than any aftermarket system you're going to be able to retrofit in there. How do I know? I live in the hottest part of the country where the temperatures soar above 110 degrees regularly in the summer. The components you should keep when upgrading your A/C are:
  1. Evaporator core. Simply have it flushed so you can run R134a.
  2. Ductwork. Nobody's going to make better fitting ductwork than the OEM.
  3. HVAC controls. If it works, leave it alone, otherwise find some new replacements for the various vacuum switches, etc.
  4. OEM blower motor fan is fine.

The things you will want to upgrade include:
  1. Expansion valve - use an R134a specific unit.
  2. Hoses. R134a specific.
  3. Compressor: Use a Seltec HD or Sanden unit.
  4. Condenser core. Use any aftermarket high efficiency unit.
  5. Receiver dryer - new one with binary switch.

I did the above and I have ice cold A/C in my '79 Bronco, beatin the heat down in southern Arizona.

'79 Ford Bronco: 408-C6-NP205 SEFI-EDIS8; 4" lift, Dana 44/Ford 9" w/4.10s, locked
'00 Mountaineer:5.0L-4R70W-3.73 gears, stock
'89 5.0L LX hatch: full 90mm Blowzilla blown Dart 304 w/Vic Jr heads + TMoss ported GT40 lower @ 8.4:1
'71 Mach 1: short deck girdled 408W w/stage 1 RHS 215 heads + Vic 5.8 EFI intake @ 10.3:1
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 07:10 PM
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good to know!

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post
This is one of the reasons why if I ever get a 78/79 I will be ripping all that old crap out and replace it with a complete retrofit unit. They make kits especially for A/C and heat for those years. Its modern technology and works with a new R134 sanden style compressor.
The other thing with the after market systems is the quality leaves a little to be desired. It is definitely better than nothing, especially in a custom car or a vehicle that did not offer A/C from the factory, but to me, it is hard to beat factory components. I know people knock the factory system but to me it just looks "right" under the hood and is fairly easy to disassemble and rebuild. I was at a swap meet a couple of weekends ago and was looking at the newer systems. I was not impressed with the quality. Just my $0.02.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaker666 View Post
How do I know? I live in the hottest part of the country where the temperatures soar above 110 degrees regularly in the summer.
.

You haven't been in the Deep South
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
You haven't been in the Deep South
I have, actually. Also, I've lived in India. You know, Indian summer? 100% humidity coupled with 105 degree weather. Of course, I didn't have the Bronco there, however. LOL

'79 Ford Bronco: 408-C6-NP205 SEFI-EDIS8; 4" lift, Dana 44/Ford 9" w/4.10s, locked
'00 Mountaineer:5.0L-4R70W-3.73 gears, stock
'89 5.0L LX hatch: full 90mm Blowzilla blown Dart 304 w/Vic Jr heads + TMoss ported GT40 lower @ 8.4:1
'71 Mach 1: short deck girdled 408W w/stage 1 RHS 215 heads + Vic 5.8 EFI intake @ 10.3:1
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaker666 View Post
I have, actually. Also, I've lived in India. You know, Indian summer? 100% humidity coupled with 105 degree weather. Of course, I didn't have the Bronco there, however. LOL
More like 1009847236r66736743663464e=mc237775727% humidity at 100000
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 07:31 PM
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Cougarmandan, the one thing to remember when changing the AC box is to removing the valve cover. It's a super tight fit, but it can be done with a whole lot of patience.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 01:50 PM
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Anyone have a pointer to a quality copper/brass heater code? I will be replacing mine soon.

79 Ranger XLT - 400ci - Auto
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