Track Bar Bolt Repair - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 12:52 AM Thread Starter
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Track Bar Bolt Repair

Did a search and could not find my answer. I have to replace the track bar bolt for the usual reason of wobbling the hole out. Bought the tapered repair bolt from BGY as well as the recommended taper reamer but repair bolt had no instructions on how to do this.

So, before I dive into this and screw it up, can someone who has done this repair give me some guidance/instructions on how to do this?

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 02:36 AM
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Bronco Info: Red/White '79 Custom-400, 435, 205. '86 EB beater, 302, 435, 208 stock on 35's, '95 XLT, 302, 5spd.
Did you find a reamer that matched the taper of the bolt? I ordered a bolt from JBG couple/three years ago & could not find the correct reamer. I returned it after some hassle, got my money back & ordered one from a suspension parts supply in CA. They gave me a number for the reamer & got one on Ebay. There is a thread somewhere on here, Ranger429 posted the part numbers for the bolt & reamer, and IIRC how to do it. It's a lot easier if you have the engine out, but can be done if not. The tapered end of the bolt goes into the casting on the axle. You just have to carefully ream out the hole so as to get a tight fit into the casting when you tighten the bolt. If you have room to use a drill, go slow & test fit often. If you have to turn the reamer by hand it will take a while. I had the engine out & had plenty of room. I used a 1/2" drill with a slow speed & oil. I read that grease actually works better with a reamer but haven't had occasion to ream anything recently. Good luck.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 02:51 AM
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track bar axle mount

I found where I had listed the numbers. Shucks, you even posted in there Zig.

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 10:06 AM
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Take the engine out????
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 10:51 AM
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7 degree reamer IIRC. I tapered mine out and test fit the bolt as I went. I tapered it so the top seat of the bolt was just out a little bit and when tightened down it pulled it in.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 01:26 PM
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i JUST SPOKE TO kd TOOLS, THEY DISCONTINUED THE REAMER IN 2008..Please post if you find the correct one..
thanks
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input, guess I wasn't typing the right info in the search engine. I'm going to order bolt from Ingalls today. Nice thing on doing this is that the axle is out of the vehicle since I'm rebuilding it.

3G Alt. Upgrade, Duel Batteries, 351M bored .030 over with Edlebrock cam and intake, C-6 w/AO4D internals, 3" lift w/RS 9000, 33x12.50 MTR's, Saginaw PS Pump Conversion, On Board Air, Detroit Locker, Hydro Boost Brake System, Altimeter from a CH-46D, Map Light from a MH-53E.

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 05:23 PM
Thanks 351w500
 
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Look on ebay first before you order it ziggy, I have seen them on there at half the price and new.


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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 05:30 PM
Thanks 351w500
 
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Bronco Info: 88 Centerion 460 Dana 60/10.25 78 Bronk Cromo shafts,Detoit 4.56's lift 7" Deavers 38's 9"rear disk
Here you go $47 or you can make an offer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120578760846...84.m1423.l2649


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 06:24 PM
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Wow Larry, the guy took 38 and change for it a couple times to. I'm thinking of buying one for the future.....
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 06:36 PM
Thanks 351w500
 
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I have had this in my watch list for 2 yrs now and have just never got around to getting one.


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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 09:58 PM
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Dang, IIRC I paid like $75 + shipping 3-4 years ago for that reamer.

Oops, you meant the bolt. I think I paid just over $40 for that.

man... the things I've learned on this site simply boggle the minds of everyone I talk too. (Biker Pepe)
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-17-2012, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deathmobile2 View Post
Take the engine out????
Doesn't have to be out, just lots easier access if it is. Zig has it real easy with it out on a bench.

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-18-2012, 03:34 AM
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Look for an XKut reamer, they are very good. I've done a lot of tie rod holes with mine and it's still amazing sharp.

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 02:09 AM
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on the 78 I have its just a typical bolt with a nut-- can someone explain why using the conversion stud is better than a nut and a good all-metal locknut with some red loctite on it?
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 78-U10 View Post
on the 78 I have its just a typical bolt with a nut-- can someone explain why using the conversion stud is better than a nut and a good all-metal locknut with some red loctite on it?

ANY play between bolt hole and bolt will equal more play in steering.
You can tighten it all day and it will still wallow in the hole when under load.
I'd weld the bolt in if I was having a problem with it.

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-19-2012, 11:02 AM
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Just on ebay, they have the xkut reamers..they are a little pricey..starting around 100.00
hope this helps
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 02:47 AM
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That really does make perfect sense. On the 66-77 bronco the factory tracbar boot is welded. I think I will go ahead and weld mine to the housing! Thanks again for the tip!!

Matt
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 03:07 PM
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Bronco Graveyard is pretty proud of their track bar studs. $75. Definitely not the cheapest around. I bet shipping is crazy too. I went to buy those shims for converting to knuckle under and it was crazy what they wanted for shipping such a small part.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Has anyone ever though of using this stuff or had experience with it at work? (http://www.aremco.com/product/a3/) I wonder if you could use it to repair a wobbled out track bolt hole? I ran across it on the internet and from what I've read and looking over spec's, it's would be just as strong if not stronger then the parent material around it. Sounds like you would use it like a regular epoxy (I.E. JB Weld) goop it on the bolt and then stick the bolt through the hole on the axle, wait for it to dry, clean up the excess and away you go.

3G Alt. Upgrade, Duel Batteries, 351M bored .030 over with Edlebrock cam and intake, C-6 w/AO4D internals, 3" lift w/RS 9000, 33x12.50 MTR's, Saginaw PS Pump Conversion, On Board Air, Detroit Locker, Hydro Boost Brake System, Altimeter from a CH-46D, Map Light from a MH-53E.

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