No Fuel - Logical next step to fix - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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No Fuel - Logical next step to fix

I want to fix my fuel delivery problem and want to make sure i'm following the proper troubleshooting sequence. Really don't want to drop the fuel tank yet. My 78 has been sitting for many years and want to get in started. I noticed the carb wasn't getting any fuel - bone dry. I removed the flexible line to the filter and dropped it in a plastic bottle (see pic) to make sure that there was no gas coming from the fuel pump-not a drop. I made sure the tank has plenty of gas and added some Marvel Mystery oil too. Would my next step be to just replace the fuel pump?

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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 03:22 PM
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Put the pickup line into a container of fuel and crank it over, checking to see if the pump is actually working. If it is, you may need to run the engine by pouring fuel down the carb long enough for the pump to build up a fuel supply from the tank.

However if it's been sitting for THAT long, stop wasting time and just drop the tank. Clean the tank and sender. Blow the lines out with compressed air and put it all back together. It's not that hard. just a few bolts and some wire connectors.

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New nuts are in the plan.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 03:26 PM
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odds are sitting for many years the fuel pump is bad, you could try putting a ballon on the end of the hose to see if the pump is pumping air, if there is no movement, then you need to replace the fuel pump
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Appreciate the quick advice. I did smell the fuel in the tank and smelled nasty. Like you said, just bite the bullet and drop the tank. Maybe I should get a new tank? What do you think of the plastic tanks?
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 03:39 PM
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Drop the tank and inspect it before jumping to conclusions, right now you're ASSuming that the tank is junk. What we know right now is the fuel in there is trash, and the pump is suspect. Don't over-think a very simple fuel system.

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New nuts are in the plan.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 03:41 PM
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Personal preference on the tanks. I like the steel ones and when I purchase a new or drop the old one I clean it up, scuff it and spray it with bedliner to protect it. What size tank do you have in there now and about how full is it? I would do what Unfor said with the pump.


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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-15-2013, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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My 78 has the larger 33 gallon tank. It has about 7 gallons in it right now. Ill work on dropping the tank tomorrow.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Got started late today and emptied out the gas tank. It was real nasty smelling gas.
Stunk up me and the garage. I took a pic of the two lines going to the tank. I'm assuming I will need to remove the fuel sender line using the special disconnect tool? The return line has a rubber hose that i can just cut? I removed the filler neck too. Now, can I just remove the bolts to the skid plate and drop the tank with the fuel sender line still connected or do I need to do that before I drop it?


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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 05:24 PM
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supply line and that wire is for the sending unit , no special tools needed unplug the sender pigtail , undo that hose clamp , work hose off or if replacing cut it , undo filler hose on the tank side , take out all the skid plate bolts , and lower it down slowly and even so fuel doesnt get all over the place ,
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 05:27 PM
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There is no return line unless it is EFI.

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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So that fuel connection on the left (solid red arrow- above pic) how do you disconnect that?
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 07:38 PM
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It just pops off. Grab ahold of the top and lift up. The tricky part will be getting it back on. I just did this last saturday had to use my left hand to line it up place it back on (I'm right handed). I would replace that line under the white arrow.


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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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OK thanks. I thought that was a rubber line like the one on the right because everything was covered with dirt and grime. Ill remove it tomorrow before i drop the tank.
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-16-2013, 10:16 PM
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You may or may not have a return line to the gas tank, depends on what emissions crap is on your vehicle. It's just one or two more lines that you will have to disconnect in order to drop the tank.

3G Alt. Upgrade, Duel Batteries, 351M bored .030 over with Edlebrock cam and intake, C-6 w/AO4D internals, 3" lift w/RS 9000, 33x12.50 MTR's, Saginaw PS Pump Conversion, On Board Air, Detroit Locker, Hydro Boost Brake System, Altimeter from a CH-46D, Map Light from a MH-53E.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Took my time today and got the tank dropped. Incredible amount of rust between the bottom of tank and skid plate. I think the lower straps completely rusted away- if there are lower straps. Question about the straps, I see there are upper straps but don't understand the purpose of the lower straps since the skid plate holds the tank up. What do the lower straps connect to? There should be rubber insulators between the skid plate and bottom of tank - correct?.





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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grovermyson View Post
Really don't want to drop the fuel tank yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grovermyson View Post
My 78 has been sitting for many years...
Worst thing you can do to a vehicle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheUnforgiven View Post
What we know right now is the fuel in there is trash...
Not necessarily... I drained a customer's tank just because she wanted new gas after leaving the car for ~3 years. So I used her in-tank pump & old filter to dump it from her car (on the lift) into my CV (which I drove in under hers). I changed her filter, refilled her tank, and both cars ran fine. Yes, the gas reeked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grovermyson View Post
Incredible amount of rust between the bottom of tank and skid plate.
Newer skidplates (which fit your truck) have more drain holes down there. Either add holes, or find a '92-96 plate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grovermyson View Post
I think the lower straps completely rusted away- if there are lower straps. ... What do the lower straps connect to? There should be rubber insulators between the skid plate and bottom of tank - correct?.
There are no bottom straps with the skidplate - the insulators are what look like rusted straps in the last pic. I prefer to replace them with camper shell mounting tape, but almost anything will work. Someone (maybe Al or Malcolm) used a bath mat.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 08:03 PM
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refer to this thread for any questions about tank mounting and straps.
79 Bronco Rebuild

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Quote:
Originally Posted by "Bronco" John Galt View Post
New nuts are in the plan.
"Kids, they see the good in everything and through their eyes, they open ours." - Hank Davis

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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 08:35 PM
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I've dropped 3 tanks on 78/79 Bronco's and only one had the straps. That was the one with the 25 gallon tank. Other two had skids so no lower straps. You should be able to use straps to hold it up and then skid it. Or do like Steve said and put something in there to act as a bushing. So you don't feel all alone in the world of tank dropping here are pics from mine last week (post 1983). Wrenching/Fixing/Moding in VA Beach thread.


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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Really appreciate the helpful comments! Just one last question before ordering part's. That plastic housing on the body for the filler neck-I want to replace the inner and outer rubber grommets. They are really dry and cracking. Has anyone done this?

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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-17-2013, 11:51 PM
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Never replaced either one, BGY has the the one grommet (http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...alve-seal.html) you will probably have to make the other one.

3G Alt. Upgrade, Duel Batteries, 351M bored .030 over with Edlebrock cam and intake, C-6 w/AO4D internals, 3" lift w/RS 9000, 33x12.50 MTR's, Saginaw PS Pump Conversion, On Board Air, Detroit Locker, Hydro Boost Brake System, Altimeter from a CH-46D, Map Light from a MH-53E.

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