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My FiTech EFI Upgrade

33K views 68 replies 16 participants last post by  KopfenJager 
#1 ·
My 79 is a stock 400 motor and awhile back I decided I wanted to upgrade to EFI. It’s my daily driver with lots of daily freeway miles. Also do some light off-roading (forest service roads, beaches, etc.) and some occasional towing (Quads/Snowmobiles/etc.).

After researching options from scavenging junkyard parts to complete install conversions from multiple manufactures, I finally settled on FiTech Go EFI 4-600 HP (30002). It suited my needs feature and price wise.

Originally, I was looking at FiTech’s 400 HP model ($200 less) but I wanted the timing control feature. Also, I don’t really know full future plans for the engine. If someday I start approaching the 400 HP, I didn’t want to that to be the limit. Anyways, for the $200 difference in overall price of the conversion, I felt the 600 HP model was worth the extra cost for myself.

For fuel delivery, I went with FiTech’s Fuel Command Center (40003). They had a cheaper inline fuel pump but after talking to their support people, I decided to go with the Fuel Commander and not have to run return lines. I also like the fuel pressure gauges. I also did consider modifying tank, putting in-tank pump, etc., but I just installed a new tank, sending unit, steel lines to engine, and electric fuel pump near tank. I didn’t wanted to redo it. I will be hooking up the carb inline electric pump to power off the Fuel Commander, which is powered by the throttle body electronics. FiTech said this would be ok and means both pumps are controlled by the throttle body electronics, which includes shutoff if no RPM detected.

To upgrade to EFI, I also have to upgrade my intake to 4 bbl since stock is 2 bbl. I went with an Edelbrock Performer 400 Non-EGR (2171). Based on another FSB thread of mine, I was told that I can put a non-EGR intake on my EGR engine/heads, that it will just plug the EGR ports on the head. Smog stuff has been removed by PO and the EGR plate under the stock carb is the last thing to go. In WA, I have collector plates on the Bronco so I no longer have to pass any kind of emissions.

My plan is to start with just swapping the carb and intake over to the FiTech EFI. This means installing the Fuel Commander, temp sensor, and O2 sensor. Later I will also change out the dizzy, lock it, and let the FiTech unit handle timing. I will also at some point, upgrade to an aluminum radiator with electric fans and have the FiTech unit control the fans.

I will be using this thread to log my progress as I go, post photos, ask questions, etc.
 
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#4 ·
The TBI unit and Fuel Commander was backordered about a month from every place I tried including Jegs and Summit. TBI unit arrived yesterday. Fuel Commander still on the way.

Some un-boxing photos below. Quite well packed.













 

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#5 ·
Subscribed!

Man this is going to be sweet! I have had this system on my next upgrade list for a long time. Can't wait to see the results so I can sweet talk my wife into this upgrade!

:popc1::popc1::popc1::popc1::popc1::popc1::popc1:
 
#6 ·
Sweet. I'll be watching too as I've decided the FI-Tech 600 route is the way I want to go. I plan on pulling my drivetrain this fall though to rebuild the 205, C6 and the 400, so I'm going to do the FI at that point.

The FI guys discouraged me from the Fuel Commander being that they are assuming most trails in Colorado would cause it to hiccup.

Can't wait to hear your feedback on it!
 
#9 ·
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The FI guys discouraged me from the Fuel Commander being that they are assuming most trails in Colorado would cause it to hiccup.
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This is a really good point. For the cost and time of such upgrades, I recommend people email/call such companies about their use scenarios.

I talked to them about this because I saw a concerned raised in another thread about the needle and seat being a failure point. FI confirmed that for my usage (they asked me a couple pointed questions about my limited off-road use), the fuel commander will work great. In general they said the mechanism is "extremely" dependable as far as reliability.
 
#7 ·
Continued un-boxing photos...


It came with this bung for the O2 sensor. It can be clamped on, or weld just the bung on.


This is the control module you keep in the cab for monitoring and making adjustments. It uses a color touch screen.






Comes with 8 GB SD card for data logging. USB port is for connecting to PC/Device to access data. In more expensive models, you can use USB for laptop based tuning.



 

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#8 ·
Continued un-boxing photos...










This is an underside shot of 2 of the 4 injectors. All replaceable with off the shelf parts from parts store.

Well, that's it for now.
 

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#10 · (Edited)
I think you are going to be very happy with this system once it's installed. When I had mine installed we went away from that bung/clamp option FITech provides and got a standard bung. Drilled hole and welded on. The command center was recommended to me when I called and told them I was a wheeler. As it was explained to me "the command center is more reliable for fuel delivery than our electric pump option we provide for you to install outside of the the tank" "There is a possibility of air getting into the fuel line at angles with the pump return line system" " That is not going to happen with our command center".

The at the moment reading & adjustments made by this system are awesome. The display shows air/fuel ratio( no need for a wideband) as well as rpm and water temperatures.

I'd look into the Lokar kickdown cable set up when adding this. A bracket had to be fabbed up to connect the FItech to the kickdown. Mine is kinda ghetto and the Lokar is imo a better option. One I will eventually get to.

For those reading this thread and interested in purchasing the system. I purchased mine from LMCtruck and got the system in 4 days. Other vendors like paceperformance, wildhorses and ebay also carry them.


Not trying to hijack your thread here, just validate what you are getting into.
 
#13 ·
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The command center was recommended to me when I called and told them I was a wheeler. As it was explained to me "the command center is more reliable for fuel delivery than our electric pump option we provide for you to install outside of the the tank" "There is a possibility of air getting into the fuel line at angles with the pump return line system" " That is not going to happen with our command center".

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Maybe I didn't eat enough Wheaties this morning, but are they not giving contradicting info here? They told me don't do the command center and do an aftermarket in-tank pump.

I would much rather do the command center. My tank has maybe 3000 miles on it, as well as the filler hoses, rubber lines, etc. I don't want to drop the tank again.

Thoughts?
 
#11 ·
No, not hijack, this is one of the reasons for posting this thread, for feedback, questions, etc. Discussions/info welcome!

As for the kickdown, my current setup isn't a cable, it's bent rod that comes up from transmission and connects directly to throttle linkage on the carb (see photo below). Is the Lokar a conversion from a rod to a cable based setup?

 

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#12 ·
Yes bent rod is what I have and here is how we mated that rod to the FItech

not the best picture but you should have the idea. I'll grab another more detailed one.

The Lokar is a cable and should work a little better than what we came up with above.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-kd-20c6ht/overview/
 
#14 ·
The way I understand it as long as there's fuel in the command center it's pushing fuel to the throttle body. So the stock pump would have to quit for the fuel delivery to be interrupted. Where as with the hp pump option they sell could pull air at certain angles and push that bubble to the throttle body.
 
#18 ·
Yeah, both TBI and Fuel Commander were backordered. TBI unit finally arrived, but just got email from Jeg's yesterday that they now expect it to ship end of September. :banghead

Contacted FiTech to see if they knew who had them in stock, they didn't. They are backordered on their site as well.
 
#19 ·
Do not know if it is plug and play with this, but Edlebrock also makes a system that has the pump and reservoir in a self contained unit that fills using the mechanical pump.
 
#20 ·
Thats a good point. I looked into it, but the Edelbrock EFI sump kit is more expensive and doesn't have gauges. I believe it would work though. It's 60 psi while FiTech needs 58 psi, but not sure that 2 psi matters. I'm guessing electrical wise its draws roughly same current, etc. I'm also not sure I like the overall design/materials and mounting system.
 
#22 ·
Quick update. Well, nothing really. Got email yesterday from JEGS that the back order of the fuel commander was pushed out another two months to early December. :banghead

Will see if I can track one down somewhere else, otherwise, won't be installing for a couple months at least.
 
#23 ·
Sounds like they are having troubles sorting out the problems they are having with the fuel command center. Have you considered using the Edelbrock one? Looks like 3605 would be an exact spec replacement for FiTech's. If you wanted more fuel volume then maybe the 36033 would be a better choice.
 
#24 ·
I cancelled my command center order after talking to them - between the massive back order and the fact they said the command center is not good for off roading. I am now going in tank using 89 pick up, stealth pump & AN all the way to the throttle body & back. Will cost ~$150 more than the command center when all said and done, but will look killer.
 
#28 ·
Any updates on this?

I have a specific question. I'm looking at the Holley Sniper system but I believe my question will apply to the FiTech system as well.

The ECU in the Holley setup requires a switched +12v power supply while in the Run & Start key positions. What keyed power supply (which wires) will you be tapping into, to supply the power in the Run & Start positions?

If I interpret my wiring manual correctly, there is no single wire that is powered in both Run & Start. What I believe this means, is that I will need to tap into BOTH a hot Run wire and a hot Start wire (2 separate wires) and use a relay to switch between the two.

What do you think?
 
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