EGR Valve and Vacuum Stuff - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-26-2016, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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EGR Valve and Vacuum Stuff

I moved off of the distributor install for a bit and started mocking up the Carb and the EGR valve. I removed the EGR valve to clean it up and noticed it was totally clogged up. I cleaned it all up and oiled up the spring valve. It looks pretty good and seems operational now. I just didn't feel like dropping 60 bucks on an after market EGR valve. From what I have been reading is that the engine only needs a few of the vacuum tubes that run all over the place. Can I get away with only using the vacuum lines to the Carb,Dizzy and Brake Booster? are those the critical ones needed?





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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 12:41 AM
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Sorry I've got an 86 EFI BKO with all the smog crap on mine but I do LOVE your picture of Gort from the Day The Earth Stood Still, staring Michael Rennie as Klaatu, Patricia Neal, Hugh Marlowe, Sam Jaffe and Billy Gray, originally on Father Knows Best was/is my all time Sfi-Fi favorite as I kid watching it on TV years after it came out.......not crazy about the reboot with Keanu Reeves and Jennifer Connelly etc. etc....it was just OK IMO.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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I so agree with you! When I was a kid that movie was my favorite. When Michael Renne said..."There's no limit to what he could do. He could destroy the Earth" Gave me chills and still does.
Remake was terrible.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 10:26 AM
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Yup on a carb the basics is all you need, make sure you use the correct port for your distributor. The distributor port is timed to apply vacuume at only a given throttle position and certain values.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 11:47 AM
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The distrib advance is supposed to be coming off of the EGR vacuum antler? Mine's coming off the back of the stock 2150 carb.

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks 445 and schwim. So the vacuum to the distributor advance can come from the manifold antler or carb- ok. Also, that main brake booster vac. line can come from the antler too?
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-27-2016, 11:49 PM
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Hup the booster comes off ported vacumme and has a check valve inline to hold vacumme off idle.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry 445 I'm not sure with what Ported Vacuum means? I put on the rear manifold antler which I believe I can hook up the brake booster and the dizzy. correct? Also, Not sure what the front manifold vacuum ports are used for? See pics.....



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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 04:28 PM
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For the black text bubble, stock, this connected there:



Which this connected to:



Which terminated at your smog pump:



I'm not savvy on the red one, however.

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-28-2016, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pics Schwim! It makes sense that the port on my manifold doesn't have what you show because my Bronco is a non-emissions truck no smog pump at all. I need to read more about the whole engine vacuum thing and what it does. Always learning..... Thanks again.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 02:57 AM
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When I was rebuilding mine I went through countless shop manuals and the spaghetti drawing they had of the vacuum lines. I ended up sketching something out from it all that made sense to me. I don't know if it makes sense to anyone else, though.
This is for a non-cat, 1978 400 w/egr.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1...ions--hand.jpg



'78 Ranger XLT- rebuilt 400 cid, aluminum intake, 4bbl carb, stock dist, stock ign - C6 Auto - 3in Flowmaster exhaust- Stock driveline - 32" BFG AT KO on rusty "modular" wheels - Protofab front bumper
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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This is awesome! Thanks so much...
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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So I have this hot air choke tube from my stock carb-2150 that went into my stock 351m intake manifold. The end off the tube slipped into a plate on the passenger side of my old intake manifold. Since I now have a new Performer 2171 intake I noticed it doesn't have this plate for the choke air tube. Not sure what I do now. Can it be installed someplace else?

This is the choke tube marked "A" (pic found on web but its the same exact thing)



This is where it went on my OLD stock intake - new intake has nothing like this.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Well I have been doing a little reading about the choke heater tubes on the stock 351m. Since I switched to an Edelbrock 2171 Manifold, I will need to use an electric choke on my stock 2150 Carb. Anyone have experience with this?
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 05:31 PM
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Heya Grover!

Switching to an elec choke is pretty simple. You'll need the assembly to swap out(it will contain the plastic body as well as the bimetallic coil found inside) and then you'll want to wire it to the "S" or "Stator" on the back of the alternator. There's a couple reasons for this. First, you only want the choke action warming when the engine is running and not when the key is set to the "on" position. Simply wiring it on a circuit live when the key is switched to "on" can cause your choke to fully disengage if you leave the key on for a while for any reason before starting the engine. Secondly, it provides a lower voltage signal so it allows the choke to operate more slowly. You don't want the choke disengaging too quickly or it will outrun the engine's need for it.

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Schwim. Is there any downfall to using and electric choke on my 2150 carb. compared to the hot air choke?
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 07:24 PM
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None at all. It's just a second way of skinning the cat, using two different sources of heat to activate the bimetallic coil.

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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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OK. I guess ill pickup an electric choke and replace the hot air one. Doesn't seem too hard of a job. Seems like my only option.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 07:50 PM
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If you go with the ultra-cheap Help!/Dorman kit, you may need to alter the choke arm inside the housing to make the kit work. I did when I converted mine to manual choke.

Your other option is to buy a kit specifically made for hot air -to- electric conversion, like this one.

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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 10-31-2016, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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thanks schwim
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